超高效液相色谱-四极杆-飞行时间质谱法测定防脱发化妆品中19种非法添加化学成分

建立了超高效液相色谱-四极杆-飞行时间质谱(UPLC-Q-TOF-MS)法,结合高分辨质谱数据库,用于快速筛查及定量分析防脱发化妆品中19种非法添加化学成分.实验比较了提取溶剂的影响,优化了色谱条件和质谱条件.采用ACQUITY UPLC BEH C18色谱柱(100 mm×2.1 mm,1.7μm)进行色谱分离,以乙...     

Detection of picramic acid and picramate in henné products by NMR Spectroscopy

Painting and body art are increasing their utilisation as well as their cultural impact, since piercing and tattoos are expanding social phenomena, involving many young people. However, the utilised materials often enter the market with insufficient control and several cases of skin damages are reported. Safety of the utilised products must be ensured by adequate quality controls which must be easily made, rapid, low cost, clear and persuasive. The method here reported, regards the analysis on the possible presence of picramic acid in the ethyl acetate extracts of commercial henné powders by NMR Spectroscopy. In the proton spectrum, three sets of peaks could be detected, corresponding to the three classes of makers resonances: hennosides, typical markers of Lawsonia inermis, the henné plant; picramic acid or picramate; fatty acids. In particular, the set of signals corresponding to hennosides can be used as markers of the utilisation of the correct raw material of henné.     

液相色谱串联质谱法测定化妆品中的双酚A、辛基酚及壬基酚

建立了护肤化妆品中双酚A、辛基酚和壬基酚的超高效液相色谱串联质谱分析方法。样品经二氯甲烷提取,氨基固相萃取柱净化后,用甲醇定容,采用Waters UPLC BEH C18色谱柱,以甲醇-0.05%氨水为流动相,梯度洗脱分离后,串联四极杆质谱多反应监测方式检测,以保留时间和子离子比定性,外标法定量。在优化条件下,该方法 5 min内可完成4种待测物的分析。双酚A、辛基酚和壬基酚在0.5～50.0μg/L范围内线性关系良好,相关系数均大于0.999,方法的定量下限(LOQs)均为0.5μg/kg;在加标水平为0.5、1.0、10.0μg/kg时,护肤霜和护肤水样品中4种待测物的平均加标回收率为80%～96%,相对标准偏差(n=6)小于15%。该方法准确、快速、灵敏,适用于护肤化妆品中双酚A、辛基酚和壬基酚的快速确认和定量检测。     

Integratomics of Human Dermal Fibroblasts Treated with Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan very common in commercial products from pharmaceuticals to cosmetics due to its widespread distribution in humans and its diversified physico-chemical proprieties. Despite its extended use and preliminary evidence showing even also opposite activities to the native form, the precise cellular effects of HA at low-molecular-weight (LWM-HA) are currently unclear. The ‘omics sciences currently in development offer a new and combined perspective on the cellular and organismal environment. This work aims to integrate lipidomics analyses to our previous quantitative proteomics one for a multi-omics vision of intra- and extra-cellular impact of different concentrations (0.125, 0.25, and 0.50%) of LMW-HA (20–50 kDa) on normal human dermal fibroblasts by LC-high resolution mass spectrometry (LC-HRMS). Untargeted lipidomics allowed us to identify 903 unique lipids mostly represented by triacylglycerols, ceramides, and phosphatidylcholines. According to proteomics analyses, LMW-HA 0.50% was the most effective concentration also in the lipidome rearrangement especially stimulating the synthesis of ceramides involved in skin hydration and reparation, cell signaling, and energy balance. Finally, integrative analyses showed 25 nodes covering several intra- and extra-cellular functions. The more complete comprehension of intra- and extra-cellular effects of LMW-HA here pointed out will be useful to further exploit its features and improve current formulations even though further studies on lipids biosynthesis and degradation are necessary.     

固相萃取-同位素稀释-气相色谱-串联质谱法测定化妆品中的二甲苯麝香

建立了测定化妆品中二甲苯麝香的固相萃取-同位素稀释-气相色谱-串联质谱分析方法.膏霜、水剂、散粉、香波、唇膏等不同类型的化妆品样品加入甲醇经超声提取后,样品提取液高速离心处理,浓缩上清液,以Sep-Pak Silica固相萃取柱净化,收集二氯甲烷洗脱液,DB-5 MS(30 m × 0.25 mm, 0.25 μm)石英毛细管色谱柱分离后经NCI-GC-MS/MS多反应监测技术进行定性及定量分析.二甲苯麝香的方法定量限为5 μg/kg,在5～50 μg/kg范围内的3个添加水平的平均回收率为81.1%～86.9%,日内精密度均小于10%,日间精密度均小于12%.本方法准确、快速、灵敏度高,可用于化妆品的实际检验工作.     

超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法同时测定化妆品中35种性激素

采用超高效液相色谱-串联质谱(UPLC-MS/MS)建立了同时测定化妆品中35种性激素的方法。样品经50%乙腈水溶液超声提取,采用CORTECS C_(18)(2.1 mm×150 mm,2.7μm)色谱柱分离,以乙腈-水为流动相进行梯度洗脱,多反应监测(MRM)模式测定。结果表明,35种性激素在各自的质量浓度范围内线性关系良好(相关系数r0.99),检出限(LOD)和定量下限(LOQ)分别为0.028～0.117μg/g和0.093～0.352μg/g。在0.25、0.50、1.00μg/g 3个加标水平下,水状、乳状和霜状3种基质样品的回收率为84.0%～117%,相对标准偏差(RSD,n=6)为1.5%～14%。该方法前处理简单、灵敏度高、准确性好,适用于化妆品中性激素的测定。     

高效液相色谱-串联质谱法测定睫毛增长液化妆品中的比马前列素

建立了高效液相色谱-串联质谱法(HPLC-MS/MS)测定睫毛增长液化妆品中比马前列素含量的分析方法。样品经50%(体积分数)甲醇溶液提取,Agilent Poroshell 120 EC-C_(18)柱(4.6 mm×100 mm,2.7μm)分离,以5 mmol·L~(-1)乙酸铵水溶液(含0.02%甲酸)-乙腈(体积比55∶45)为流动相等度洗脱,流速0.3 mL·min~(-1),采用电喷雾正离子源(ESI~+),多反应监测(MRM)扫描方式检测,外标法定量。结果表明,比马前列素在0.5～100 ng·mL~(-1)质量浓度范围内线性良好,相关系数(r~2)为0.998 2,在低、中、高3个加标水平下的平均回收率分别为98.6%、101%和99.2%,相对标准偏差(RSD)分别为2.4%、2.1%、1.2%,检出限(LOD,S/N=3)为0.015μg·g~(-1),定量下限(LOQ,S/N=10)为0.05μg·g~(-1)。该方法快速简便、灵敏度高,适用于市售睫毛增长液化妆品中比马前列素的快速准确检测。     

Natural and Conventional Cosmetics—Mercury Exposure Assessment

Mercury (Hg) can enter the human body through the respiratory tract and digestive system, but also through the skin. Sources of Hg in the environment can be natural processes, but also human activities, including agriculture, chemical, and pharmaceutical industries. Hg can also enter the body through food, but also with cosmetics that are used for a long time. Therefore, the aim of this study was to evaluate the Hg content in 268 randomly selected cosmetics: Natural and conventional, for face and body. Hg content was determined using an atomic absorption spectrometer (AMA 254, Leco, Prague, Czech Republic). It was shown that the face preparations were characterized by a significantly higher Hg content than the body preparations. No differences in the content of the tested element were found between natural and conventional preparations. Hg could be detected in all samples with concentrations measured from 0.348 to 37.768 µg/kg.     

Antioxidant and Cytoprotective Properties of Plant Extract from Dry Flowers as Functional Dyes for Cosmetic Products

Nowadays, natural dyes are expected by the cosmetic and food industries. In contrast to synthetic dyes, colorants derived from natural sources are more environmentally friendly and safer for human health. In this work, plant extracts from Gomphrena globasa L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Punica granatum L. and Papaver rhoeas L. as the natural and functional dyes for the cosmetics industry were assessed. Cytotoxicity on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines was determined as well as antioxidant and anti-aging properties by determining their ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase enzymes. In addition, the composition of the extracts was determined. The obtained extracts were also applied in face cream formulation and color analyses were performed. It has been shown that the obtained extracts were characterized by no cytotoxicity and a high antioxidant potential. The extracts also show strong ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and moderate ability to inhibit elastase and provide effective and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Application analyses showed that the extracts of P. rhoeas L., C. ternatea L. and C. tinctorius L. can be used as effective cosmetic dyes that allow for attainment of an intense and stable color during the storage of the product. The extracts of P. granatum L. and G. globasa L., despite their beneficial effects as active ingredients, did not work effectively as cosmetic dyes, because cosmetic emulsions with these extracts did not differ significantly in color from emulsions without the extract.     

气相色谱-质谱法测定化妆品中13种防晒剂

防晒剂广泛应用于化妆品中,是目前化妆品监管的重点。建立了同时测定化妆品中13种防晒剂的气相色谱-质谱(GC-MS)方法。化妆品样品经二氯甲烷提取后,涡旋超声后稀释。采用程序升温模式,经HP-5ms毛细管色谱柱(30 m×250 μm×0.25 μm)在30 min内对13种防晒剂实现分离,经电子轰击(EI)源电离后采用选择离子监测模式(SIM)扫描测定,外标法定量。比较了6种常用有机溶剂的基质效应和平均回收率,二氯甲烷的基质效应弱,平均回收率较高。13种防晒剂在相应的线性范围内线性关系良好,相关系数均大于0.998,检出限(LOD, S/N=3)为0.04~0.63 mg/g,定量限(LOQ, S/N=10)为0.12~2.10 mg/g。实验选取了两种基质,在3个水平下验证方法的回收率和精密度,13种防晒剂在霜类基质中的加标回收率为88.7%~103.6%,相对标准偏差(RSD, n=6)为1.7%~4.9%,在乳类基质中的加标回收率为88.4%~102.3%, RSD(n=6)为1.2%~3.9%。美白类化妆品常添加防晒剂成分,为监管盲区,采用该方法检测了5批含有防晒剂的美白类化妆品,其所含5种防晒剂的含量为0.8%~5.2%,符合相关要求。该方法操作简单,灵敏度高,回收率好,测定的13种防晒剂均为我国《化妆品安全技术规范》2015版规定的常用的限用组分,可以用于各类化妆品中13种防晒剂的定性定量测定,为市场监管和实验室检测提供新的技术支持。