高效液相色谱法检测化妆品中着色剂罗丹明B、金光红C和颜料红57

采用N,N-二甲基甲酰胺提取样品中的待测物,建立了化妆品中禁、限用着色剂罗丹明B、颜料红57和金光红c的高效液相色谱检测方法。以XDB-C18柱为分析柱,5mmol／L四丁基氢氧化铵-氢氧化钾水溶液（磷酸调至pH7．00）和甲醇为流动相,梯度洗脱。550am（罗丹明B）和480nm（颜料红57和金光红C）为检测波长,柱温30℃,流速1．0mL／min,保留时间定性,外标法定量。结果表明在0．25-20mg／L（罗丹明B和金光红C）、0．5-40mg／L（颜料红57）浓度范围内线性关系良好,检出限分别为5,20,20mg／kg（S／N=10）,实际样品中的加标回收率分别为94．8％～100．5％,95．1％～103．1％,82．5％-90．5％,相对标准偏差为0．9％～4．6％。该方法前处理简单、易操作,检测结果准确可靠。能够满足化妆品中这3种着色剂的检测要求和监管需要。     

气相色谱-质谱联用法测定化妆品中邻苯二甲酸酯类化合物的不确定度评定

气相色谱-质谱联用法测定化妆品中邻苯二甲酸酯类化合物不确定度的主要来源有标准溶液引入的不确定度、样品引入的不确定度、样品处理过程中引入的不确定度。以邻苯二甲酸二丁酯(DBP)为例,对各不确定度分量进行了评定,计算了合成不确定度和扩展不确定度。当化妆品中DBP测量结果为10.39 mg/L时,其扩展不确定度为0.50 mg/L(k=2)。     

萃取纳升喷雾-离子迁移谱法现场快速筛查化妆品中8种禁用抗生素

采用萃取纳升喷雾结合离子迁移谱技术,建立了化妆品中8种禁用抗生素的现场快速筛查方法。对萃取纳升喷雾毛细管拉制条件、萃取纳升喷雾离子化条件、离子迁移谱检测条件等进行了详细考察和优化。在优化的实验条件下,8种禁用抗生素的方法检出限为20 mg/kg,离子迁移谱分析时间小于20 ms,单个样品全部检测时间不超过30 s。对于筛检出的疑似阳性样品,进一步采用超高效液相色谱-串联质谱进行确证。该方法流程简便、快捷高效,为化妆品中违禁组分的现场快速筛查提供了较为广阔的应用前景。     

超高效液相色谱-线性离子阱/静电场轨道阱高分辨质谱快速筛查化妆品中的24种激素

建立了超高效液相色谱-线性离子阱/静电场轨道阱组合式高分辨质谱联用（UPLC-LTQ/Orbitrap MS）快速筛查、定性识别化妆品中24种激素的分析方法。不同剂型的化妆品样品经甲醇超声提取,用Waters ACQUITY UPLC BEH C18色谱柱（50 mm×2.1 mm,1.7 μm）分离,以乙腈和0.1%（v/v）甲酸水溶液为流动相进行梯度洗脱。通过静电场轨道阱全扫描得到激素化合物的准分子离子的精确质量数,实现对化妆品中激素的快速筛查;再以保留时间和数据依赖扫描（data dependent scan）模式获得的子离子质谱图进行定性确证。24种激素化合物的质量准确度误差小于3×10^-6（3 ppm）;线性良好,相关系数大于0.99;检出限≤10 μg/kg（S/N=3）,能满足实际化妆品样品的分析要求。应用该方法对不同剂型的50余种化妆品样品进行筛查分析,结果良好。该方法是化妆品中激素快速筛查、定性识别的有效方法。     

化妆品中黄芩苷与白鲜碱的超高效液相色谱检测及质谱确证

建立了化妆品中黄芩苷和白鲜碱的超高效液相色谱(UPLC)检测方法和超高效液相色谱-四极杆串联飞行时间质谱仪(UPLC-Q-TOF)的质谱确证方法。不同基质类型的化妆品经甲醇-磷酸缓冲溶液(9∶1,p H 2.5)超声提取,氯化钠破乳化,以乙腈-0.1%甲酸水溶液为流动相,梯度洗脱,利用Waters CSH C18(2.1 mm×100 mm,1.7μm)色谱柱对目标物和样品杂质进行有效分离,以314 nm为检测波长进行定量测定。黄芩苷和白鲜碱在0.05~10 mg/L范围内均呈良好线性,相关系数大于0.999,方法的回收率为92.2%~103.1%,相对标准偏差小于4%,方法检出限均为0.3 mg/kg。同时建立了对黄芩苷和白鲜碱的UPLC-QTOF质谱确证方法,通过一个母离子和子离子的精确质量数对黄芩苷和白鲜碱进行确证,分子质量精确度小于5 ppm,并结合紫外吸收光谱、精确质量数及同位素匹配对黄芩苷的降解产物进行了结构确定。     

高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中的呋喃妥因和呋喃唑酮

建立了一种同时检测化妆品中呋喃妥因和呋喃唑酮的高效液相色谱法(HPLC)。乳液、膏霜、化妆水、散粉、唇膏类等不同类型的化妆品样品由乙腈-甲醇(体积比为1∶1)混合溶液超声提取后进行HPLC分析。采用Kromasil C18色谱柱,以乙腈-0.4%乙酸溶液(体积比为30∶70)为流动相,流速1.0 mL/min,采用二极管阵列检测器检测,检测波长为365 nm;采用外标法定量,呋喃妥因和呋喃唑酮检测的线性范围为0.1～20 mg/L,相关系数为0.9999,最低检出限为1.2 mg/kg;在0.2,1.0,10.0 mg/L加标水平下,平均回收率为88.0%～104.6%,相对标准偏差为0.5%～4.8%。该方法快速准确,可用于化妆品中呋喃妥因和呋喃唑酮的同时测定。     

顶空气相色谱法测定化妆品中15种挥发性有机溶剂残留

建立了化妆品中15种挥发性有机溶剂残留的顶空气相色谱测定方法。样品经60 ℃、30 min静态顶空后,采用气相色谱-氢火焰离子化检测器进行检测,外标法定量。加标回收试验结果表明: 15种挥发性有机溶剂残留平均回收率为62.8%～116%,相对标准偏差均小于5%。方法的检出限为0.09～0.68 mg/kg。该方法可有效克服基体干扰,一次进样可同时分离和测定化妆品中15种挥发性有机溶剂,准确灵敏,简单快速,适用于化妆品中挥发性有机溶剂残留的检测。     

超高效液相色谱法检测化妆品中的12种磺胺抗生素

建立了采用超高效液相色谱(UPLC)-二极管阵列检测器（PDA）测定化妆品中12种常见的磺胺抗生素(磺胺、磺胺间甲氧嘧啶、磺胺醋酰、磺胺甲基异唑、磺胺嘧啶、磺胺二甲异唑、磺胺噻唑、磺胺二甲氧嘧啶、磺胺甲基嘧啶、磺胺喹啉、磺胺二甲嘧啶、磺胺硝苯)的方法。采用Acquity UPLCTM BEHC C18 色谱柱(50 mm×2.1 mm, 1.7 μm),流动相为乙腈/0.1%的甲酸水溶液,梯度洗脱。样品经提取、反萃取后,用UPLC-PDA进行分析检测,结合保留时间和紫外光谱进行定性分析,定量检测波长268 nm。12种磺胺的检出限(S/N=3)均为1 μg/g,定量下限(S/N=10)为2～3 μg/g,在1～25 mg/L(磺胺硝苯为0.5～12.5 mg/L)范围内,峰面积和质量浓度的线性关系良好(r>0.9997)。添加水平为40, 8 μg(磺胺硝苯为20, 4 μg)时,12种磺胺的平均回收率分别为86.8%～98.1%和80.1%～96.9%,相对标准偏差小于10%(n=6)。结果表明该方法简单,分离效果好,速度快,能够满足检测化妆品中12种常见的磺胺抗生素的需要。     

Plastic Antibodies for Cosmetics: Molecularly Imprinted Polymers Scavenge Precursors of Malodors

Molecularly imprinted polymers (MIPs) are synthetic antibody mimics capable of specific molecular recognition. Advantageously, they are more stable, easy to tailor for a given application and less expensive than antibodies. These plastic antibodies are raising increasing interest and one relatively unexplored domain in which they could outplay these advantages particularly well is cosmetics. Here, we present the use of a MIP as an active ingredient of a cosmetic product, for suppressing body odors. In a dermo‐cosmetic formulation, the MIP captures selectively the precursors of malodorous compounds, amidst a multitude of other molecules present in human sweat. These results pave the way to the fabrication of a novel generation of MIPs with improved selectivities in highly complex aqueous environments, and should be applicable to biotechnological and biomedical areas as well.     

Antioxidant and Cytoprotective Properties of Plant Extract from Dry Flowers as Functional Dyes for Cosmetic Products

Nowadays, natural dyes are expected by the cosmetic and food industries. In contrast to synthetic dyes, colorants derived from natural sources are more environmentally friendly and safer for human health. In this work, plant extracts from Gomphrena globasa L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Punica granatum L. and Papaver rhoeas L. as the natural and functional dyes for the cosmetics industry were assessed. Cytotoxicity on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines was determined as well as antioxidant and anti-aging properties by determining their ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase enzymes. In addition, the composition of the extracts was determined. The obtained extracts were also applied in face cream formulation and color analyses were performed. It has been shown that the obtained extracts were characterized by no cytotoxicity and a high antioxidant potential. The extracts also show strong ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and moderate ability to inhibit elastase and provide effective and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Application analyses showed that the extracts of P. rhoeas L., C. ternatea L. and C. tinctorius L. can be used as effective cosmetic dyes that allow for attainment of an intense and stable color during the storage of the product. The extracts of P. granatum L. and G. globasa L., despite their beneficial effects as active ingredients, did not work effectively as cosmetic dyes, because cosmetic emulsions with these extracts did not differ significantly in color from emulsions without the extract.