化妆品中5种禁用着色剂的高效液相色谱检测及质谱确证

建立了高效液相色谱测定化妆品中酸性黄36、颜料红53∶1、颜料橙5、苏丹红Ⅱ和苏丹红Ⅳ5种禁用着色剂的分析方法.考察了着色剂使用率较高的蜡质类、固体粉类和液体类基质化妆品中着色剂的最佳提取条件.在流动相中添加离子对试剂四丁基氢氧化铵调节着色剂的色谱保留,使之达到完全分离,最佳色谱条件为:以依利特Hypersil C18(4.6 mm×250 mm,5μm)色谱柱分离,流动相为乙腈-0.01 mol/L四丁基氢氧化铵/0.01 mol/L柠檬酸缓冲溶液(pH 8.2),梯度洗脱,流速1.0 mL/min,柱温30℃,检测波长416、484、514 nm.考察了蜡质类、固体粉类和液体类等不同基质化妆品中着色剂的回收率和精密度.在0.2 ～50mg/L范围内,5种禁用着色剂的线性关系良好,相关系数(r)均大于0.999,仪器检出限(S/N=3)为0.2～0.5 mg/L.采用高效液相色谱-串联质谱法对5种禁用着色剂进行确证,在低、中、高3个添加水平下,5种禁用着色剂的平均回收率为85％～ 102％,相对标准偏差为0.5％ ～ 3.6％.该方法准确、简便、快速,可用于化妆品中上述5种禁用着色剂的测定.     

高效液相色谱法对化妆品中17种致敏原的同时测定

建立了同时测定化妆品中17种致敏原(茴香醇、苯甲醇、香豆素、肉桂醇、丁香酚、异丁香酚、香叶醇、芳樟醇、柠檬醛、2-辛炔酸甲酯、戊基肉桂醇、水杨酸苄酯、肉桂酸苯甲酯、戊基肉桂醛、α-异甲基紫罗兰酮、α-己基肉桂醛、苧烯)的高效液相色谱方法。不同类型的化妆品样品经无水乙醇超声提取,以15000 r/m in离心15 min,取上清液过滤后测定。采用Agilent ZORBAX Ec lipse XDB-C8(4.6 mm×250 mm,5μm)色谱柱,以乙腈-水为流动相梯度洗脱,流速1.0 mL/min,采用二极管阵列检测器多波长检测(210、230、250、275、300 nm)。17种致敏原的定量下限为10~500μg/kg,线性范围内相关系数均大于0.999。在高、中、低3个添加水平下的平均加标回收率(n=5)为85%~118%,相对标准偏差为1.5%~9.7%。该方法简便、快速、准确,适用于化妆品中17种致敏原的测定。     

Biogenic Silver Nanoparticles from Iris tuberosa as Potential Preservative in Cosmetic Products

Biogenic-silver nanoparticles emerge as new nanosilver platforms that allow us to obtain silver nanoparticles via “green chemistry”. In our study, biogenic-silver nanoparticles were obtained from Iris tuberosa leaf extract. Nanoparticles were characterized by a UV-vis spectroscopy, dynamical light scattering technique. The transmission electron microscope revealed spheric and irregular nanoparticles with 5 to 50 nm in diameter. Antimicrobial properties were evaluated against typical microbial contaminants found in cosmetic products, showing high antimicrobial properties. Furthermore, natural moisturizing cream was formulated with biogenic-silver nanoparticles to evaluate the preservative efficiency through a challenge test, indicating its promising use as preservative in cosmetics.     

化妆品中的微量元素

对七种常用于化妆品中的微量元素铜，铁，硅，硒，碘，铬，锗及其配合物的功能、作用机理和研究现状作了较为详细的讨论。     

凝胶渗透色谱净化-气相色谱-串联质谱法同时测定不同配方体系化妆品中7种二甲基环硅氧烷

鉴于当前化妆品中二甲基环硅氧烷的添加乱象,以及关于二甲基环硅氧烷在化妆品中安全风险评价的研究也未有实质性进展,因此建立适合不同配方体系化妆品中二甲基环硅氧烷的测定方法具有一定的理论和现实意义。基于此,建立了凝胶渗透色谱净化结合气相色谱-串联质谱测定不同配方体系化妆品中7种二甲基环硅氧烷的方法。方法采用乙酸乙酯-环己烷(1∶1, v/v)提取,凝胶渗透色谱净化,通过DB-5ms色谱柱(30.0 m×0.25 mm×0.25 μm)分离和气相色谱-串联质谱选择反应监测(SRM)模式进行确证和检测,以正十六烷为内标物内标法定量。分别对内标物、提取溶剂和净化方式的选择进行了优化。在最终确立的条件下,7种二甲基环硅氧烷在0.05~1.0 mg/L范围内线性良好,相关系数为0.994~0.998;方法的检出限(LOD, S/N=3)和定量限(LOQ, S/N=10)分别为0.04~0.08 mg/kg和0.12~0.24 mg/kg;针对不同配方体系的化妆品基质,进行了低、中、高3个添加水平的加标回收试验,目标物的加标回收率为85.3%~108.8%,相对标准偏差(RSD)为3.1%~9.4%。该方法操作简便,灵敏度高,重复性好,能够满足不同配方体系化妆品中7种二甲基环硅氧烷的测定要求。采用所建立的方法对市面上的化妆品进行检测,八甲基环四硅氧烷(D4)和十甲基环五硅氧烷(D5)均有不同程度的检出。该方法的建立将为我国化妆品中二甲基环硅氧烷的质量监督检查提供技术依据,有利于保障化妆品的安全,同时也为后续化妆品中二甲基环硅氧烷的健康安全风险评价提供了技术支撑。     

Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics

Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.     

UPLC-MS/MS法测定7类化妆品中4-氨基联苯

建立了超高效液相色谱-串联质谱(UPLC-MS/MS)检测化妆品中4-氨基联苯的方法。化妆品样品经溶剂超声提取、净化(液液萃取或固相萃取),氮气吹至近干并定容后,通过高效液相色谱-串联四极杆质谱仪检测。分离柱为Waters Acquity BEH C18柱(1.7μm,2.1 mm×100 mm);流动相为0.3%甲酸水溶液-乙腈;流速0.5 mL·min-1。7种不同基质样品中4-氨基联苯的检测限均小于1.0ng·g-1。7种不同基质样品中4-氨基联苯的回收率为85.3%～111.2%,相对标准偏差(RSD)为0.93%～4.11%(n=3),在2.5ng·mL-1～250ng·mL-1浓度范围内呈良好的线性关系,线性回归系数r2均大于0.999。     

固相微萃取法和液液萃取K-D浓缩法对化妆品香气的分析

分别利用固相微萃取法和液液萃取K-D浓缩法对化妆品调理水中的香气提取物进行分析比较。用这两种方法从化妆品调理水中提取、鉴定出30个化合物,从固相微萃取法提取物中鉴定出23个化合物,液液萃取K-D浓缩法提取物中鉴定出16个化合物,其中相同的化合物有9个。结果表明,两种提取方法得到的香气成分有明显差异,其香气特征成分主要集中在固相微萃取法所富集部分,因此采用固相微萃取法能够快速、高效、全面地对香气的香型进行定性分析。     

肽的检测方法及化妆品中肽检测的计量需求

肽因具有良好的生物活性而在化妆品中得到越来越广泛的应用。介绍了化妆品中肽的类型及其作用,肽对改善皱纹、抗衰老和美白祛斑等方面有明显功效。当前社会对化妆品中肽的检测方法及计量学研究存在迫切需求,综述了目前检测肽常见的方法:凯氏定氮法、荧光检测技术、化学发光检测法、电泳法、比色法、酶联免疫吸附剂测定法、色谱法等。     

电感耦合等离子体质谱法(ICP-MS)测定化妆品中铍、镉、铊、铬、砷、碲、钕、铅

建立了化妆品中铍、铬、砷、镉、碲、钕、铊、铅8种有害元素的测定方法,样品采用微波消解,以钇、锂、铟、铋为测定的内标元素,用电感耦合等离子体质谱法测定,结果表明,各元素和内标元素在一定浓度范围内的质量数比值均与浓度呈良好的线性关系,线性方程的相关系数均大于0.999 8,平均加标回收率为95%~104%,相对标准偏差(RSD)均小于3%。方法灵敏度高,准确,可为化妆品中上述元素的限量检查提供参考。