化妆品中5种禁用着色剂的高效液相色谱检测及质谱确证

建立了高效液相色谱测定化妆品中酸性黄36、颜料红53∶1、颜料橙5、苏丹红Ⅱ和苏丹红Ⅳ5种禁用着色剂的分析方法.考察了着色剂使用率较高的蜡质类、固体粉类和液体类基质化妆品中着色剂的最佳提取条件.在流动相中添加离子对试剂四丁基氢氧化铵调节着色剂的色谱保留,使之达到完全分离,最佳色谱条件为:以依利特Hypersil C18(4.6 mm×250 mm,5μm)色谱柱分离,流动相为乙腈-0.01 mol/L四丁基氢氧化铵/0.01 mol/L柠檬酸缓冲溶液(pH 8.2),梯度洗脱,流速1.0 mL/min,柱温30℃,检测波长416、484、514 nm.考察了蜡质类、固体粉类和液体类等不同基质化妆品中着色剂的回收率和精密度.在0.2 ～50mg/L范围内,5种禁用着色剂的线性关系良好,相关系数(r)均大于0.999,仪器检出限(S/N=3)为0.2～0.5 mg/L.采用高效液相色谱-串联质谱法对5种禁用着色剂进行确证,在低、中、高3个添加水平下,5种禁用着色剂的平均回收率为85％～ 102％,相对标准偏差为0.5％ ～ 3.6％.该方法准确、简便、快速,可用于化妆品中上述5种禁用着色剂的测定.     

固相萃取/高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中5种抗组胺药物残留

建立了固相萃取/高效液相色谱(SPE/HPLC)测定化妆品中5种抗组胺药物(多西拉敏、曲吡那敏、溴苯那敏、苯海拉明、氯苯沙明)残留的分析方法。试样经三氯乙酸溶液超声提取,PCX柱净化后,以甲醇-磷酸盐缓冲溶液为流动相,经C18柱分离后进行HPLC检测。5种抗组胺药物在5.0～100 mg/L范围内均呈良好的线性关系,线性系数均大于0.999。在5.0、10.0、25.0 mg/kg 3个加标水平下的平均回收率为92%～108%,相对标准偏差(RSD,n=6)为2.1%～4.2%,检出限为0.5～1.0 mg/L。该方法灵敏度高、重现性好、定量准确。     

高效液相色谱法对化妆品中17种致敏原的同时测定

建立了同时测定化妆品中17种致敏原(茴香醇、苯甲醇、香豆素、肉桂醇、丁香酚、异丁香酚、香叶醇、芳樟醇、柠檬醛、2-辛炔酸甲酯、戊基肉桂醇、水杨酸苄酯、肉桂酸苯甲酯、戊基肉桂醛、α-异甲基紫罗兰酮、α-己基肉桂醛、苧烯)的高效液相色谱方法。不同类型的化妆品样品经无水乙醇超声提取,以15000 r/m in离心15 min,取上清液过滤后测定。采用Agilent ZORBAX Ec lipse XDB-C8(4.6 mm×250 mm,5μm)色谱柱,以乙腈-水为流动相梯度洗脱,流速1.0 mL/min,采用二极管阵列检测器多波长检测(210、230、250、275、300 nm)。17种致敏原的定量下限为10~500μg/kg,线性范围内相关系数均大于0.999。在高、中、低3个添加水平下的平均加标回收率(n=5)为85%~118%,相对标准偏差为1.5%~9.7%。该方法简便、快速、准确,适用于化妆品中17种致敏原的测定。     

电感耦合等离子体质谱法(ICP-MS)测定化妆品中铍、镉、铊、铬、砷、碲、钕、铅

建立了化妆品中铍、铬、砷、镉、碲、钕、铊、铅8种有害元素的测定方法,样品采用微波消解,以钇、锂、铟、铋为测定的内标元素,用电感耦合等离子体质谱法测定,结果表明,各元素和内标元素在一定浓度范围内的质量数比值均与浓度呈良好的线性关系,线性方程的相关系数均大于0.999 8,平均加标回收率为95%~104%,相对标准偏差(RSD)均小于3%。方法灵敏度高,准确,可为化妆品中上述元素的限量检查提供参考。     

凝胶渗透色谱净化-气相色谱-串联质谱法同时测定不同配方体系化妆品中7种二甲基环硅氧烷

鉴于当前化妆品中二甲基环硅氧烷的添加乱象,以及关于二甲基环硅氧烷在化妆品中安全风险评价的研究也未有实质性进展,因此建立适合不同配方体系化妆品中二甲基环硅氧烷的测定方法具有一定的理论和现实意义。基于此,建立了凝胶渗透色谱净化结合气相色谱-串联质谱测定不同配方体系化妆品中7种二甲基环硅氧烷的方法。方法采用乙酸乙酯-环己烷(1∶1, v/v)提取,凝胶渗透色谱净化,通过DB-5ms色谱柱(30.0 m×0.25 mm×0.25 μm)分离和气相色谱-串联质谱选择反应监测(SRM)模式进行确证和检测,以正十六烷为内标物内标法定量。分别对内标物、提取溶剂和净化方式的选择进行了优化。在最终确立的条件下,7种二甲基环硅氧烷在0.05~1.0 mg/L范围内线性良好,相关系数为0.994~0.998;方法的检出限(LOD, S/N=3)和定量限(LOQ, S/N=10)分别为0.04~0.08 mg/kg和0.12~0.24 mg/kg;针对不同配方体系的化妆品基质,进行了低、中、高3个添加水平的加标回收试验,目标物的加标回收率为85.3%~108.8%,相对标准偏差(RSD)为3.1%~9.4%。该方法操作简便,灵敏度高,重复性好,能够满足不同配方体系化妆品中7种二甲基环硅氧烷的测定要求。采用所建立的方法对市面上的化妆品进行检测,八甲基环四硅氧烷(D4)和十甲基环五硅氧烷(D5)均有不同程度的检出。该方法的建立将为我国化妆品中二甲基环硅氧烷的质量监督检查提供技术依据,有利于保障化妆品的安全,同时也为后续化妆品中二甲基环硅氧烷的健康安全风险评价提供了技术支撑。     

超高效液相色谱法测定美白、祛痘化妆品中4种禁用激素

建立了超高效液相色谱同时测定美白、祛痘化妆品中4种糖皮质激素氢化可的松、曲安奈德醋酸酯、氯倍他索丙酸酯、倍他米松双丙酸酯的方法。样品采用甲醇涡旋超声提取,色谱柱采用Waters ACQUITY UPLC BEH C18柱(100 mm×2.1 mm,1.7μm),流动相为乙腈–水溶液,梯度洗脱,流量为0.5 m L/min,用PDA检测器检测,检测波长为240 nm。方法检出限以3倍空白噪音计,氢化可的松、曲安奈德醋酸酯、氯倍他索丙酸酯、倍他米松双丙酸酯的检出浓度分别为0.12,0.18,0.30,0.30 mg/kg。在质量浓度为1.0~40.0 mg/L时,标准工作曲线相关系数r0.999 8,4种激素的回收率为85.3%~102.8%,测定结果的相对标准偏差为2.1%~5.0%(n=6)。该方法前处理简单,分离效果好,且灵敏度高,速度快,能满足美白、祛痘化妆品中4中糖皮质激素的检测需要。     

Natural rheological modifiers for personal care

The development of personal care formulations incorporates the deliberation of the prerequisite product rheology and the right rheology modifier to deliver these effects. While the effectiveness of the finished product will hinge on the selection and level of active ingredients and excipients, the esthetics and even the penetration of these actives into the stratum corneum will be affected by the product rheology. Rheology modifiers are frequently denoted as thickeners, and while increasing the apparent viscosity should enhance the perception of quality in a formulation, this is only one aspect of rheological control. The product itself can be Newtonian or pseudoplastic, thixotropic, existing as a ringing gel or a stringy flowable liquid. This changes the way that the product appears in the bottle, the ease with which aliquots are poured or scooped from the packaging, the process of rubbing it into the skin or along the hair shaft, and upon using, the rinsing and removal of the product. It will also be vital to select the correct rheological characteristics to guarantee the stability of the finished formulation. By changing the structure of polymeric rheology modifiers, the impact on the sensorial properties and performance characteristics can be investigated. Careful selection of monomers, structure and other co‐ingredients will result in products optimized for use in skin care formulations. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

固相萃取/液相色谱-串联质谱法同时测定面膜类化妆品中非法添加的53种糖皮质激素

建立了固相萃取/液相色谱-串联质谱法(SPE/LC-MS/MS)同时测定面膜类化妆品中53种糖皮质激素的方法。样品经水分散后,加入甲醇涡旋提取,提取液用水稀释后,采用Cleanert PEP(60 mg,3 m L)固相萃取小柱净化。待测物经Waters CORTECS C18+(100 mm×2.1 mm,2.7μm)色谱柱分离,在电喷雾离子源的正离子模式下以动态多反应监测(DMRM)模式采集数据并作定性筛查和定量分析。53种药物在相应的浓度范围内线性关系良好,相关系数均大于0.99,在3个不同浓度加标水平下,平均回收率为66.8%~106.3%,相对标准偏差(RSD)为3.9%~13.2%,检出限(LOD,S/N≥3)和定量下限(LOQ,S/N≥10)分别为3μg/kg及10μg/kg。该方法操作简便、定性可靠、定量准确、灵敏度高,适用于化妆品中非法添加糖皮质激素的定性确证和准确定量。     

Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics

Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.     

肽的检测方法及化妆品中肽检测的计量需求

肽因具有良好的生物活性而在化妆品中得到越来越广泛的应用。介绍了化妆品中肽的类型及其作用,肽对改善皱纹、抗衰老和美白祛斑等方面有明显功效。当前社会对化妆品中肽的检测方法及计量学研究存在迫切需求,综述了目前检测肽常见的方法:凯氏定氮法、荧光检测技术、化学发光检测法、电泳法、比色法、酶联免疫吸附剂测定法、色谱法等。