超高效液相色谱-四极杆-飞行时间质谱法测定防脱发化妆品中19种非法添加化学成分

建立了超高效液相色谱-四极杆-飞行时间质谱(UPLC-Q-TOF-MS)法,结合高分辨质谱数据库,用于快速筛查及定量分析防脱发化妆品中19种非法添加化学成分.实验比较了提取溶剂的影响,优化了色谱条件和质谱条件.采用ACQUITY UPLC BEH C18色谱柱(100 mm×2.1 mm,1.7μm)进行色谱分离,以乙...     

化妆品及香精中27种香料的气相色谱-质谱检测方法

建立了气相色谱-质谱同时检测化妆品及香精中27种香料的方法。采用甲醇作为提取溶剂，经弱极性毛细管柱分离，用气相色谱-质谱检测，离子源为电子轰击离子（EI）源。该方法对麝香二甲苯、羟基香茅醛和羟异己基3-环己烯基甲醛的检出限分别为1.2、15和15 mg/kg，其余香料的检出限为3.0 mg/kg。27种香料在相应的线性范围内线性关系良好，相关系数均大于等于0.996。在3个加标浓度下，麝香二甲苯的回收率为73.3%~76.1%，其余为81.5%~118%，相对标准偏差小于10%。采用建立的方法对69份香精或标示含香料化妆品进行检测，全部样品都检测出含有一种或多种香料。该方法适用于化妆品及香精中27种香料的测定。     

高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中α-、β-熊果苷及烟酰胺

建立了美白类化妆品中熊果苷的两种光学异构体α-熊果苷和β-熊果苷及烟酰胺的高效液相色谱检测方法。样品用氯化钠水溶液-氯仿(2:1, v/v)进行萃取。固定相为依利特ODS-BP柱(200 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm),流动相为甲醇-水(10:90, v/v),柱温为25 ℃,检测波长为220 nm,流速为0.5 mL/min,进样量为20 μL。在上述条件下α-熊果苷、β-熊果苷和烟酰胺的质量浓度依次在0.07~50, 0.06~50, 0.05~50 mg/L时与色谱峰面积之间的线性关系良好,相对标准偏差(n=7)分别为1.65%、1.73%和1.33%。将该方法用于化妆品的检测,回收率为91.7%～109.6%。该法简便、快速、准确,可用于化妆品美白成分的测定。     

Development of a natural ingredient – Natural preservative: A case study

Lately, the cosmetic and personal care market has been more and more driven toward natural ingredients by the rising consumers' awareness about personal health and safety and their will for safer cosmetics free of harmful chemicals. Preservatives are no exception to the rule: evidence or suspicion of the toxicity of certain synthetic preservatives that have been around for decades pushed the cosmetic industry forward to seek for natural alternatives, as the selection of natural preservatives already available is quite limited. Sourcing active metabolites and developing new natural ingredients are long-term procedures that are thoroughly described in the present paper, via the example of the design of a natural preservative based on the Santolina chamaecyparissus extract, and of the assessments of its preservative effectiveness.     

凝胶渗透色谱净化-气相色谱-串联质谱法同时测定不同配方体系化妆品中7种二甲基环硅氧烷

鉴于当前化妆品中二甲基环硅氧烷的添加乱象,以及关于二甲基环硅氧烷在化妆品中安全风险评价的研究也未有实质性进展,因此建立适合不同配方体系化妆品中二甲基环硅氧烷的测定方法具有一定的理论和现实意义。基于此,建立了凝胶渗透色谱净化结合气相色谱-串联质谱测定不同配方体系化妆品中7种二甲基环硅氧烷的方法。方法采用乙酸乙酯-环己烷(1∶1, v/v)提取,凝胶渗透色谱净化,通过DB-5ms色谱柱(30.0 m×0.25 mm×0.25 μm)分离和气相色谱-串联质谱选择反应监测(SRM)模式进行确证和检测,以正十六烷为内标物内标法定量。分别对内标物、提取溶剂和净化方式的选择进行了优化。在最终确立的条件下,7种二甲基环硅氧烷在0.05~1.0 mg/L范围内线性良好,相关系数为0.994~0.998;方法的检出限(LOD, S/N=3)和定量限(LOQ, S/N=10)分别为0.04~0.08 mg/kg和0.12~0.24 mg/kg;针对不同配方体系的化妆品基质,进行了低、中、高3个添加水平的加标回收试验,目标物的加标回收率为85.3%~108.8%,相对标准偏差(RSD)为3.1%~9.4%。该方法操作简便,灵敏度高,重复性好,能够满足不同配方体系化妆品中7种二甲基环硅氧烷的测定要求。采用所建立的方法对市面上的化妆品进行检测,八甲基环四硅氧烷(D4)和十甲基环五硅氧烷(D5)均有不同程度的检出。该方法的建立将为我国化妆品中二甲基环硅氧烷的质量监督检查提供技术依据,有利于保障化妆品的安全,同时也为后续化妆品中二甲基环硅氧烷的健康安全风险评价提供了技术支撑。     

Application of Carrageenan extract from red seaweed (Rhodophyta) in cosmetic products: A review

Cosmetic industries have expanded globally and will continue to increase as there are consumers. Nowadays, the interest starts to incline towards cosmetics formulated using plant-based ingredients. Marine plants such as seaweed possess numerous natural polysaccharides. Carrageenan is one of the compounds that can be extracted from red seaweed (Rhodophyta). This natural polysaccharide is widely known to act as a thickener, stabilizer, and water-binding agent as well as have diverse biological activities that make it a suitable active ingredient in cosmetic products. The review paper is organized by starting with discussing the significant aspects related to carrageenan which are the source, structure, as well as general and biological properties of carrageenan that make it appropriate to be applied in cosmetics. This paper also highlighted the applications of carrageenan in cosmetics, followed by the extraction method and instrument used.     

Positive lists of cosmetic ingredients: Analytical methodology for regulatory and safety controls – A review

Cosmetic products placed on the market and their ingredients, must be safe under reasonable conditions of use, in accordance to the current legislation. Therefore, regulated and allowed chemical substances must meet the regulatory criteria to be used as ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products, and adequate analytical methodology is needed to evaluate the degree of compliance. This article reviews the most recent methods (2005–2015) used for the extraction and the analytical determination of the ingredients included in the positive lists of the European Regulation of Cosmetic Products (EC 1223/2009): comprising colorants, preservatives and UV filters. It summarizes the analytical properties of the most relevant analytical methods along with the possibilities of fulfilment of the current regulatory issues. The cosmetic legislation is frequently being updated; consequently, the analytical methodology must be constantly revised and improved to meet safety requirements. The article highlights the most important advances in analytical methodology for cosmetics control, both in relation to the sample pretreatment and extraction and the different instrumental approaches developed to solve this challenge.     

Determination of Phenolic Endocrine Disruptors in Cosmetics by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography Mass Spectrometry

An analytical method for the simultaneous determination of bisphenol A, 4-t-octylphenol, 4-n-octylphenol, and 4-n-nonylphenol in cosmetic samples has been developed. These compounds have toxic effects on human health as they have shown to produce endocrine disrupting properties. Therefore, their presence in cosmetics should be avoided according to the current European Regulations on cosmetic products. The method is based on high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) detection. Standard addition calibration was used to avoid matrix effects. The limits of detection values ranged between 7 and 15?ng?mL^?1 (threefold of the residual standard deviation of regression lines). The proposed method was validated, and good recovery (90–106%) and repeatability values (2.7–8.2%) were obtained. Finally, the method was successfully applied to ten commercially available cosmetic samples. The good analytical features of the proposed method make it useful to carry out the quality control of cosmetic products and raw materials to assure the safety of users.     

高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中的维生素C及其衍生物

建立了化妆品中维生素C及其3种衍生物(抗坏血酸葡糖苷(AA-2G)、抗坏血酸磷酸酯镁(AA-2P)、抗坏血酸乙基醚(Only VCE))的高效液相色谱分析方法。化妆水、水乳液等含油脂较少的样品先采用30 mL 0.02 mol/L磷酸二氢钾溶液(pH 3.0)直接提取,然后定容至50 mL;面膏等含油脂较高及凝胶类、啫喱类的样品先加入1.0 mL二氯甲烷分散均匀后再加25 mL 0.02 mol/L磷酸二氢钾溶液(pH 3.0)提取。提取液在12000 r/min下离心后用0.22 μm滤膜过滤。样品分析采用YMC-Triart C18色谱柱,以0.02 mol/L磷酸二氢钾溶液(pH 3.0)和甲醇溶液为流动相,梯度洗脱,流速为1.0 mL/min,柱温为25 ℃,使用二极管阵列检测器(DAD)检测,检测波长为250 nm,外标法定量。结果显示:4种化合物在其线性范围内线性关系良好,相关系数(r²)均大于0.9999;方法的定量限(以信噪比为10计)为0.04~0.08 g/kg;添加水平为0.25~5.0 g/kg时的回收率为95.6%~101.0%,相对标准偏差为0.62%~3.0%。该方法前处理简单、回收率高、精密度好,适用于化妆品中维生素C及其衍生物的测定。     

超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法测定化妆品中新型糖皮质激素氯倍他索乙酸酯

采用超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法建立了化妆品中氯倍他索乙酸酯的检测方法,适用于膏霜乳类、凝胶类、泥类、贴膜类和液体(水)类5种常见化妆品基质。对影响被测物质的前处理方法、提取溶剂、提取时间等因素和色谱、质谱条件等进行了考察。最终建立方法为样品经乙腈涡旋分散、超声提取、过滤后用超高效液相色谱-串联质谱仪测定,采用Waters CORTECS C₁₈色谱柱(150 mm×2.1 mm, 2.7 μm),以水和乙腈作为流动相分离,在电喷雾正离子模式(ESI⁺)下,以多反应监测(MRM)方式采集,采用基质匹配标准曲线进行定量分析。5种基质类型下,被测物质在0.9~37 μg/L的范围内线性拟合良好,线性相关系数(R²)均超过0.99。方法的检出限为0.03 μg/g,定量限为0.09 μg/g。在定量限、2倍定量限和10倍定量限3个水平下的加标回收率试验中,被测物质在5种基质中的回收率范围为83.2%~103.2%,相对标准偏差(RSD, n=6)范围为1.4%~5.6%。采用该方法对不同基质类型的化妆品样品进行筛查,共发现5批阳性样品,其中氯倍他索乙酸酯的含量范围为1.1~48.1 μg/g。该方法操作简单,灵敏可靠,适用于不同基质类型化妆品的高通量定性定量筛查分析,为监测化妆品中的非法添加提供了技术支持及理论依据。     

Neutral desorption extractive electrospray ionization mass spectrometry for fast screening sunscreen agents in cream cosmetic products

High throughput analysis of sunscreen agents present in cream cosmetic has been demonstrated, typically 2 samples per minute, using neutral desorption extractive electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ND-EESI-MS) without sample pretreatment. For the targeted compounds such as 4-Aminobenzoic acid and oxybenzone, ND-EESI-MS method provided linear signal responses in the range of 1-100 ppb. Limits of detection (LOD) of the method were estimated at sub-ppb levels for the analytes tested. Reasonable relative standard deviation (RSD = 8.4-16.0%) was obtained as a result of 10 independent measurements for commercial cosmetics samples spiked with each individual sunscreen agents at 1-10 ppb. Acceptable recoveries were achieved in the range of 87-116% for direct analysis of commercial cream cosmetic samples. The experimental data demonstrate that ND-EESI-MS is a useful tool for high throughput screening of sunscreen agents in highly viscous cream cosmetic products, with the capability to obtain quantitative information of the analytes.     

高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中的12种紫外吸收剂

建立了高效液相色谱同时测定化妆品中12种紫外吸收剂含量的方法。样品用甲醇提取,高速离心,过滤,以SB-C8柱(250 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm)为分离色谱柱,甲醇和0.1%(v/v)甲酸水溶液为流动相,梯度洗脱,以311 nm为检测波长进行定性、定量分析。该方法前处理简单、易操作,12种紫外吸收剂分离效果良好;在1.0～500 mg/L范围内呈线性关系,相关系数大于0.9995;方法检出限为0.002～0.1 mg/L;实际样品中的加标回收率为97.4%～107.5%,相对标准偏差为1.54%～4.98%。该方法简便、准确,能够满足化妆品中紫外吸收剂的检测要求。     

Oxidation-stable linoleic acid by inclusion in α-cyclodextrin

Linoleic acid is essential to the skin’s barrier function. Its skin-care and restorative properties make it attractive for use in cosmetics and dermatology. However, its sensitivity to oxidation and tendency to go rancid prevent its use in cosmetic preparations. But in the form of a molecular inclusion compound with α-cyclodextrin, linoleic acid is effectively protected against oxidation. Investigations into the storage and light stability, olfactory tests and headspace analysis of the formulations give evidence of the stability of a suitable inclusion compound. Reversible complexation makes it possible for the first time to use linoleic acid in various cosmetic formulations and personal-care products.     

The composition of some Roman medicines: evidence for Pliny’s Punic wax?

Residues from medicine containers in the collections of the British Museum have been investigated as part of a wider programme of scientific work on Roman surgical instruments. The cylindrical bronze containers are often described as instrument cases, but some contain materia medica, ranging from extensive extant remains of ancient preparations to possible minor deposits on the interior surfaces of the containers. Samples from seven residues have been analysed by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC-MS) to identify lipid, resin and carbohydrate components and by X-ray fluorescence and Raman spectroscopy to characterise inorganic materials. The results have provided evidence for ointments and powders or pills consistent with a medical purpose. The ingredients identified include beeswax, fat, conifer resin and gum-derived sugars, plus elemental carbon and lead and zinc salts. Particularly significant were the varied compositions of residues from four sections of a multi-compartment container. In one of these compartments, the beeswax seems to have been prepared as the ‘Punic wax’ described by Pliny. Experimental preparation of Punic wax following Pliny’s method was undertaken in the laboratory and the product analysed to compare with the ointment residues. This paper discusses the GC-MS results of both the experimental material and the archaeological residues and their significance for the interpretation of the past intended applications of the medicines and the use of the containers.     

Kinetics of oil saponification by lead salts in ancient preparations of pharmaceutical lead plasters and painting lead mediums

Lead soaps can be found in archaeological cosmetics as well as in oil paintings, as product of interactions of lead salts with oil. In this context, a better understanding of the formation of lead soaps allows a follow-up of the historical evolution of preparation recipes and provides new insights into conservation conditions. First, ancient recipes of both pharmaceutical lead plasters and painting lead mediums, mixtures of oil and lead salts, were reconstructed. The ester saponification by lead salts is determined by the preparation parameters which were quantified by FT-IR spectrometry. In particular, ATR/FT-IR spectrometer was calibrated by the standard addition method to quantitatively follow the kinetics of this reaction. The influence of different parameters such as temperature, presence of water and choice of lead salts was assessed: the saponification is clearly accelerated by water and heating. This analysis provides chemical explanations to the historical evolution of cosmetic and painting preparation recipes.     

Natural Ingredients Common in the Trás-os-Montes Region (Portugal) for Use in the Cosmetic Industry: A Review about Chemical Composition and Antigenotoxic Properties

The natural cosmetics market has grown since consumers became aware of the concept of natural-based ingredients. A significant number of cosmetics have an ecological impact on the environment and carry noxious and chemically potent substances. Thus, the use of natural and organic cosmetics becomes increasingly important since it is clear that topical treatment with cosmeceuticals can help improve skin rejuvenation. A substantial investigation into the benefits that fruits and plants can bring to health is required. Studies have shown that antigenotoxic properties are linked to anti-aging properties. Several studies have shown potential antigenotoxicity in natural ingredients such as Almonds (Prunus dulcis), Elderberry (Sambucus nigra), Olives (Olea europaea), and Grapes (Vitis vinifera). This review presents an overview of research conducted on these natural ingredients, the most common in the Northeast of Portugal. This region of Portugal possesses the most organic farmers, and ingredients are easily obtained. The Northeast of Portugal also has climatic, topographic, and pedological differences that contribute to agricultural diversity.     

静态顶空/气相色谱-质谱法同时测定化妆品中22种有毒挥发性有机溶剂残留

以2015版《化妆品安全技术规范》中规定的常见禁用及限用有毒挥发性有机溶剂为研究对象,建立了静态顶空/气相色谱-质谱法(SHS/GC-MS)同时测定化妆品中22种有毒挥发性有机溶剂(VOC)(二氯甲烷、顺式-1,2-二氯乙烯、反式-1,2-二氯乙烯、2-氯-1,3-丁二烯、三氯甲烷、1,2-二氯乙烷、苯、四氯化碳、三氯乙烯、甲苯、四氯乙烯、氯苯、乙苯、三溴甲烷、间二甲苯、对二甲苯、苯乙烯、邻二甲苯、异丙苯、1,4-二氯苯、1,2-二氯苯、六氯丁二烯)残留的检测方法。试样在80℃下30 min静态顶空,经DB-1柱分离后,采用选择离子监测模式(SIM)进行定性定量分析。优化了顶空、色谱和质谱参数,结果表明:22种VOC在0.5~50 ng/m L浓度范围内均呈良好的线性关系,相关系数均大于0.99,在1.0,2.0,5.0 ng/m L 3个浓度加标水平下的平均回收率为80.3%~102.7%,相对标准偏差(RSD,n=6)为6.4%~9.9%,检出限为0.2~5.0 ng/g。结果表明,该方法简便、灵敏、准确,具有良好的重现性和稳定性,适合于化妆品中22种VOC残留的筛查和确证检测。     

热解吸-电晕放电电离-离子迁移谱法现场快速筛查化妆品中5种禁用组分

采用热解吸-电晕放电电离技术结合离子迁移谱，研究建立了化妆品中5种禁用卡因类化合物的现场快速筛查方法。化妆品样品无需前处理步骤，样品轻轻蘸取、滴加或喷雾在采样拭纸上，置于离子源样品槽中，采用热解吸-电晕放电电离技术实现样品中待测物的热解吸和离子化，随后以离子迁移谱进行快速筛查分析。5种卡因类化合物的检出限为10~50 ng，离子迁移谱分析时间小于20 ms，整个样品分析周期不超过1 min。本方法简便、快速、成本低廉，适用于化妆品中卡因类禁用组分的现场快速筛查。     

同位素稀释液相色谱-串联质谱法测定化妆品中残留的丙烯酰胺

建立了化妆品中丙烯酰胺残留的同位素稀释液相色谱-串联质谱的分析方法。水溶性化妆品样品以水为提取溶剂进行提取,提取液经高速离心处理后,上清液用Oasis HLB固相萃取柱净化;脂溶性化妆品样品以正己烷和水混合溶剂液-液分配萃取。经Waters Atlantis T3色谱柱(150 mm×2.1 mm,3 μm)分离后在多反应监测模式下进行串联质谱定性及定量分析,以13C3-丙烯酰胺为内标定量。方法的定量限为0.1 mg/kg,在0.1～1.0 mg/kg 3个添加水平范围内的平均回收率为87.7%～95.8%,日内测定精密度均小于10%,日间测定精密度均小于12%。该方法能够满足化妆品中丙烯酰胺残留的检测要求。     

高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中17种紫外线吸收剂

为避免使用四氢呋喃和高氯酸这样高腐蚀性的溶剂作流动相,本文从样品前处理方法、色谱柱的选择和流动相条件的优化等方面对《化妆品卫生规范》规定的15种紫外线吸收剂的高效液相色谱测定方法进行了改进,并将目标物检测范围扩大为17种。样品用四氢呋喃/甲醇/水体系提取,离心过滤后,以Phenomenex PFP柱(250 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm)为分离色谱柱,以20%异丙醇的甲醇溶液(含0.1%甲酸)和水溶液(含0.1%甲酸)作为流动相,梯度洗脱,以311 nm和280 nm为检测波长,进行定性和定量分析。回收率试验及实际阳性样品测定均表明将本方法用于化妆品中17种紫外线吸收剂的测定,结果准确、可靠。与《化妆品卫生规范》方法相比,普通液相色谱仪无需改进即可实现17种紫外线吸收剂的同时检测,增加了方法的普适性,同时所有目标化合物全部基线分离,分离度的提高增加了定量的准确性。