高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中α-、β-熊果苷及烟酰胺

建立了美白类化妆品中熊果苷的两种光学异构体α-熊果苷和β-熊果苷及烟酰胺的高效液相色谱检测方法。样品用氯化钠水溶液-氯仿(2:1, v/v)进行萃取。固定相为依利特ODS-BP柱(200 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm),流动相为甲醇-水(10:90, v/v),柱温为25 ℃,检测波长为220 nm,流速为0.5 mL/min,进样量为20 μL。在上述条件下α-熊果苷、β-熊果苷和烟酰胺的质量浓度依次在0.07~50, 0.06~50, 0.05~50 mg/L时与色谱峰面积之间的线性关系良好,相对标准偏差(n=7)分别为1.65%、1.73%和1.33%。将该方法用于化妆品的检测,回收率为91.7%～109.6%。该法简便、快速、准确,可用于化妆品美白成分的测定。

Determination of α-arbutin, β-arbutin and niacinamide in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography

A high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for the determination of two optical isomers of arbutin (α-arbutin and β-arbutin) and niacinamide in cosmetics was developed. The samples were extracted by the mixture of salt water and chloroform (2∶1, v/v). The separation was performed on an ODS-BP column (200 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm, Elite) with methanol-water (10∶90, v/v) as the mobile phase at a flow rate of 0.5 mL/min and 25 ℃. The detection wavelength was set at 220 nm and the sample injection volume was 20 μL. There were good linear relationships between the mass concentration and the peak areas of α-arbutin, β-arbutin and niacinamide in the ranges of 0.07-50, 0.06-50 and 0.05-50 mg/L, respectively. The relative standard deviations (RSDs, n=7) of α-arbutin, β-arbutin and niacinamide were 1.65% , 1.73% and 1.33% , respectively. The proposed method has been applied for the determination of α-arbutin, β-arbutin and niacinamide in cosmetics with recoveries of 91.7% -109.6% . This method is rapid, simple and suitable for the detection of whitening ingredients in cosmetic.