化妆品中植物原料组分检测技术研究进展

化妆品已成为当今社会人们生活中不可或缺的日用消费品。近年来,随着人们追求天然、绿色、安全、健康的意识日益增强,以植物活性成分为主的天然化妆品越来越受到广大消费者的青睐。与传统化妆品相比,植物中的天然物质更容易被皮肤吸收,且不易在体内产生沉积。该文介绍了化妆品中已使用的植物原料组分,并对其相关检测技术进行了综述,以期对植物资源的有效开发利用和化妆品的检验检测提供理论指导和技术支持。     

基于QuEChERS提取的高效液相色谱-串联质谱法同时测定4种不同基质类型化妆品中15种硝基咪唑类禁用药物

建立了同时测定4种不同基质类型化妆品中15种硝基咪唑类(NMZs)禁用药物的高效液相色谱-串联质谱法(HPLC-MS/MS)。样品经溶剂超声提取,改良的QuEChERS方法净化后,过0.22μm滤膜上机检测。采用XSelect CSH C_(18)色谱柱(2.1 mm×150 mm,3.5μm)进行分离,以0.1%甲酸乙腈-0.1%甲酸水溶液作为流动相梯度洗脱,流速为0.25 mL/min。采用正离子模式电喷雾电离(ESI~+),多反应监测(MRM)模式检测,基质匹配标准曲线外标法定量。结果表明,15种硝基咪唑类药物在5～500μg/L范围内线性良好,相关系数(r~2)0.99,检出限(LOD)和定量下限(LOQ)分别为0.8～200μg/kg和4～400μg/kg。3个不同浓度加标水平下,平均加标回收率为86.8%～115%,相对标准偏差(RSD)为0.3%～8.4%。该方法前处理简单、分离效果好、回收率高,适用于化妆品中硝基咪唑类禁用药物的测定。     

超高效液相色谱-四极杆/静电场轨道阱高分辨质谱快速分析化妆品中17种喹诺酮类药物

建立了一种水剂、乳液和非蜡基膏霜类化妆品中17种喹诺酮类药物的超高效液相色谱-四极杆/静电场轨道阱高分辨质谱(UPLC-Q Orbitrap HRMS)分析方法。样品采用0.1%甲酸(体积分数)乙腈混合溶液超声提取,正己烷液液萃取脱脂,经Agilent Poroshell EC C_(18)(4.6 mm×150 mm,2.7μm)色谱柱分离后,以全扫描/二级离子扫描(Full Scan/dd-MS~2)进行定性筛查和定量检测,内标法定量。结果表明,17种喹诺酮类药物均在0.05～20.0μg/L范围内呈良好的线性关系(r~20.996 0),检出限和定量下限分别为0.5、1.0μg/kg。在2、4、20μg/kg 3个加标水平下,回收率为82.3%～108%,相对标准偏差(RSD,n=6)为3.5%～8.6%。该方法快速准确,灵敏度高,可用于化妆品中喹诺酮类药物的测定。     

二维层状离子型纳米材料在化妆品领域的应用进展

二维层状离子型纳米材料具有独特的结构和界面性能,使其在透皮吸收、防晒、活性物的靶向传递、构建稳定的纳米微胶囊等功效中显示出极大的优势,在化妆品行业中具有良好的市场前景。 该类化合物根据层板电荷不同可分为阳离子型粘土材料和阴离子型水滑石类材料。 基于近年来国内外对二者的研究报道和实验研究成果,本文综述了二维离子型纳米材料的特点、性能及其在化妆品领域的应用历史和发展现状,并进一步展望了该类材料在化妆品领域中的应用前景。     

An Overview of the Analytical Methods for the Determination of Organic Ultraviolet Filters in Cosmetic Products and Human Samples

UV filters are a group of compounds commonly used in different cosmetic products to absorb UV radiation. They are classified into a variety of chemical groups, such as benzophenones, salicylates, benzotriazoles, cinnamates, p-aminobenzoates, triazines, camphor derivatives, etc. Different tests have shown that some of these chemicals are absorbed through the skin and metabolised or bioaccumulated. These processes can cause negative health effects, including mutagenic and cancerogenic ones. Due to the absence of official monitoring protocols, there is an increased number of analytical methods that enable the determination of those compounds in cosmetic samples to ensure user safety, as well as in biological fluids and tissues samples, to obtain more information regarding their behaviour in the human body. This review aimed to show and discuss the published studies concerning analytical methods for the determination of organic UV filters in cosmetic and biological samples. It focused on sample preparation, analytical techniques, and analytical performance (limit of detection, accuracy, and repeatability).     

Neutron Activation Analysis of Lipsticks Using γ-Ray Spectrometry

Neutron activation analysis with -ray spectrometry was used to measure the concentrations of various elements in lipsticks of popular Indian and foreign brands. The aim of the present work was to study the possibility of existence of trace elements in samples of lipsticks (the ingredients of which are mostly organic in nature) and to see whether trace elements could distinguish lipsticks of different Indian and foreign brands from the forensic point of view apart from their inter-se differentiation. In the different samples of lipsticks that were analysed the following elements were detected: Au, Ba, Br, Ca, Cs, Fe, Na, Ru, Sb, Sc, Ta, Yt, Zn, Rb, and Se. It was found that inter-se differentiation of lipsticks was possible on the basis of concentrations of trace elements and their profile. Concentration of bromine in samples of lipsticks identified lipsticks of different Indian brands. Samples of lipsticks of Indian and foreign brands could be differentiated on the basis of concentrations of cesium, antimony and scandium which were found to be higher in foreign brands as compared to those in Indian brands.     

凝胶渗透色谱净化-气相色谱-串联质谱法同时测定不同配方体系化妆品中7种二甲基环硅氧烷

鉴于当前化妆品中二甲基环硅氧烷的添加乱象,以及关于二甲基环硅氧烷在化妆品中安全风险评价的研究也未有实质性进展,因此建立适合不同配方体系化妆品中二甲基环硅氧烷的测定方法具有一定的理论和现实意义。基于此,建立了凝胶渗透色谱净化结合气相色谱-串联质谱测定不同配方体系化妆品中7种二甲基环硅氧烷的方法。方法采用乙酸乙酯-环己烷(1∶1, v/v)提取,凝胶渗透色谱净化,通过DB-5ms色谱柱(30.0 m×0.25 mm×0.25 μm)分离和气相色谱-串联质谱选择反应监测(SRM)模式进行确证和检测,以正十六烷为内标物内标法定量。分别对内标物、提取溶剂和净化方式的选择进行了优化。在最终确立的条件下,7种二甲基环硅氧烷在0.05~1.0 mg/L范围内线性良好,相关系数为0.994~0.998;方法的检出限(LOD, S/N=3)和定量限(LOQ, S/N=10)分别为0.04~0.08 mg/kg和0.12~0.24 mg/kg;针对不同配方体系的化妆品基质,进行了低、中、高3个添加水平的加标回收试验,目标物的加标回收率为85.3%~108.8%,相对标准偏差(RSD)为3.1%~9.4%。该方法操作简便,灵敏度高,重复性好,能够满足不同配方体系化妆品中7种二甲基环硅氧烷的测定要求。采用所建立的方法对市面上的化妆品进行检测,八甲基环四硅氧烷(D4)和十甲基环五硅氧烷(D5)均有不同程度的检出。该方法的建立将为我国化妆品中二甲基环硅氧烷的质量监督检查提供技术依据,有利于保障化妆品的安全,同时也为后续化妆品中二甲基环硅氧烷的健康安全风险评价提供了技术支撑。     

Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics

Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.     

肽的检测方法及化妆品中肽检测的计量需求

肽因具有良好的生物活性而在化妆品中得到越来越广泛的应用。介绍了化妆品中肽的类型及其作用,肽对改善皱纹、抗衰老和美白祛斑等方面有明显功效。当前社会对化妆品中肽的检测方法及计量学研究存在迫切需求,综述了目前检测肽常见的方法:凯氏定氮法、荧光检测技术、化学发光检测法、电泳法、比色法、酶联免疫吸附剂测定法、色谱法等。     

Combining high-performance liquid chromatography with on-line microdialysis sampling for the simultaneous determination of ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid, and niacinamide in bleaching cosmetics

We have used on-line microdialysis sampling coupled with high-performance liquid chromatography and UV-vis detection to simultaneously determine the contents of ascorbyl glucoside (AA-2G), kojic acid (KA), and niacinamide (VitB₃) in commercial bleaching cosmetics. Our results indicate that AA-2G, KA, and VitB₃ separated well within 4.5 min on a reverse-phase Hypersil Fluophase PFP column when eluting with 0.020 M phosphate buffer solution in 40% (v/v) methanol at pH 5.5. The calibration curves were linear over the ranges 0.068-304, 0.071-284, and 0.024-488 μg mL⁻¹ for AA-2G, KA, and VitB₃, respectively, with correlation coefficients for the linear regression analyses falling within the range 0.9982-0.9999. The detection limits for AA-2G, KA, and VitB₃ were 0.01, 0.01, and 0.007 μg mL⁻¹, respectively. The detection wavelength was robust when the levels of the analytes in the samples were high (0.1-2%). The analytes were all detected using ultraviolet light (254 nm). The compounds diffuse through the membrane more readily when KA and VitB₃ are in their molecular forms and AA-2G is ionized. The recoveries were in the range 92-106% with good reproducibility (R.S.D. = 3.9-8.7%). We used this procedure to assay six commercially available bleaching cosmetics; our results confirmed not only the precision of the method but also the claims made on the labels of the cosmetics. This approach provides a very simple means to determine the contents of AA-2G, KA, and VitB₃ in various dosages in bleaching cosmetics.