Natural Ingredients Common in the Trás-os-Montes Region (Portugal) for Use in the Cosmetic Industry: A Review about Chemical Composition and Antigenotoxic Properties

The natural cosmetics market has grown since consumers became aware of the concept of natural-based ingredients. A significant number of cosmetics have an ecological impact on the environment and carry noxious and chemically potent substances. Thus, the use of natural and organic cosmetics becomes increasingly important since it is clear that topical treatment with cosmeceuticals can help improve skin rejuvenation. A substantial investigation into the benefits that fruits and plants can bring to health is required. Studies have shown that antigenotoxic properties are linked to anti-aging properties. Several studies have shown potential antigenotoxicity in natural ingredients such as Almonds (Prunus dulcis), Elderberry (Sambucus nigra), Olives (Olea europaea), and Grapes (Vitis vinifera). This review presents an overview of research conducted on these natural ingredients, the most common in the Northeast of Portugal. This region of Portugal possesses the most organic farmers, and ingredients are easily obtained. The Northeast of Portugal also has climatic, topographic, and pedological differences that contribute to agricultural diversity.     

Recent studies on selected botanical dietary supplement ingredients

The market for botanical dietary supplements in the US has grown rapidly during the last 15 years. Use of newly introduced botanical ingredients has often outpaced an adequate scientific understanding of the ingredients themselves. This may lead to problems, including misidentification, mislabeling, adulteration, and toxicity related to the intended ingredient or one substituted for it. This article reviews recent work with several botanical ingredients (Ephedra, Citrus species, Hoodia gordonii, Teucrium, isoflavones) that illustrates the complexity of the current situation and approaches that contribute to ensuring the quality of botanical ingredients. Recent work with contamination of botanical products by mycotoxins is also reviewed. The need for tools for botanical authentication and methods for reproducible extraction of bioactive constituents is critical. Such tools, and improved analytical techniques for identifying potentially bioactive constituents in fresh plant material and in concentrated extracts and for detection of hazardous contaminants, are expected to improve the overall quality and safety of botanical dietary supplement ingredients.     

Positive lists of cosmetic ingredients: Analytical methodology for regulatory and safety controls – A review

Cosmetic products placed on the market and their ingredients, must be safe under reasonable conditions of use, in accordance to the current legislation. Therefore, regulated and allowed chemical substances must meet the regulatory criteria to be used as ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products, and adequate analytical methodology is needed to evaluate the degree of compliance. This article reviews the most recent methods (2005–2015) used for the extraction and the analytical determination of the ingredients included in the positive lists of the European Regulation of Cosmetic Products (EC 1223/2009): comprising colorants, preservatives and UV filters. It summarizes the analytical properties of the most relevant analytical methods along with the possibilities of fulfilment of the current regulatory issues. The cosmetic legislation is frequently being updated; consequently, the analytical methodology must be constantly revised and improved to meet safety requirements. The article highlights the most important advances in analytical methodology for cosmetics control, both in relation to the sample pretreatment and extraction and the different instrumental approaches developed to solve this challenge.     

Nettle (Urtica dioica L.) as a source of antioxidant and anti-aging phytochemicals for cosmetic applications

Nettle (Urtica dioica L.) is a herbaceous perennial that has been used for centuries in folk medicine. More recently, nettle extracts have also been used in cosmetics because of the many benefits of their topical application for skin health. Their potential anti-aging action is of particular interest and is primarily ascribed to their antioxidant capacity. Here, using an experimental design approach and a clustering analysis, we linked the phytochemical composition of nettle extracts to their biological activities. This approach confirmed the antioxidant capacity of nettle extracts as well as providing the first evidence of another mechanism for their anti-aging potential involving the inhibition of enzyme activities, such as elastase and collagenase. We attributed these inhibitory effects to ursolic acid and quercetin present in the nettle extracts. Our results also demonstrated the possibility of extracting ursolic acid, quercetin and other phenolic compounds differentially to obtain an extract with a strong antioxidant capacity and anti-aging activities toward both elastase and collagenase. This could be of particular interest for cosmetic applications of nettle extracts.     

Purple passion fruit seeds (Passiflora edulis f. edulis Sims) as a promising source of skin anti-aging agents: Enzymatic,antioxidant and multi-level computational studies

This study aimed to assess the anti-aging potential of the ethanol extract of Passiflora edulis f. edulis Sims seeds, through in vitro determination of antioxidant activity and inhibition assays of some enzymes related to skin aging. Furthermore, using in silico methods (docking and molecular dynamics), were established the affinity of the majority compounds of the extract on the target enzymes, ending with the prediction of drug-likeness properties. The extract showed a high total phenolic content, represented mainly by flavonoids and phenolic acids, as well as a considerable antioxidant potential measured through the DPPH, FRAP and ORAC methods. In the inhibition assays of the enzymes collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase, IC₅₀ values presented were optimal. Docking studies demonstrated marked binding ability of the extract constituients (specially, fisetin, galangin and S-eriodictyol) to the Collagenase and Tyrosinase. Molecular dynamics validated the stability and rationality of these molecular docking studies, MM/PBSA calculations provide strong evidence for both their specific heavy binding and how enzyme-ligand complex stabilized inside the catalytic domain, and drug-likeness studies showed suitable dermato-pharmacokinetics indices for most of components of extract. Findings from this study suggest that ethanol extract of P. edulis has a great potential as an anti-aging agent.     

New developments in the extraction and determination of parabens in cosmetics and environmental samples. A review

Parabens are a family of synthetic esters of p-hydroxibenzoic acid widely used as preservatives in cosmetics and health-care products, among other daily-use commodities. Recently, their potential endocrine disrupting effects have raised concerns about their safety and their potential effects as emerging pollutants, leading to the regulation of the presence of parabens in commercial products by national and trans-national organizations. Also, this has led to an interest in developing sensible and reliable methods for their determination in environmental samples, cosmetics and health-care products.     

Structure,Bioactivity and Analytical Methods for the Determination of Yucca Saponins

Yucca is one of the main sources of steroidal saponins, hence different extracts are commercialized for use as surfactant additives by beverage, animal feed, cosmetics or agricultural products. For a deeper understanding of the potential of the saponins that can be found in this genus, an exhaustive review of the structural characteristics, bioactivities and analytical methods that can be used with these compounds has been carried out, since there are no recent reviews on the matter. Thus, a total of 108 saponins from eight species of the genus Yucca have been described. Out of these, the bioactivity of 68 saponins derived from the isolation of Yucca or other genera has been evaluated. Regarding the evaluation and quality control of the saponins from this genus LC-MS technique is the most often used. Nevertheless, the development of methods for their routine analysis in commercial preparations are needed. Moreover, most of the studies found in the literature have been carried out on Y. schidigera extract, since is the most often used for commercial purposes. Only eight of the 50 species that belong to this genus have been studied, which clearly indicates that the identification of saponins present in Yucca genus is still an unresolved question.     

Application of Carrageenan extract from red seaweed (Rhodophyta) in cosmetic products: A review

Cosmetic industries have expanded globally and will continue to increase as there are consumers. Nowadays, the interest starts to incline towards cosmetics formulated using plant-based ingredients. Marine plants such as seaweed possess numerous natural polysaccharides. Carrageenan is one of the compounds that can be extracted from red seaweed (Rhodophyta). This natural polysaccharide is widely known to act as a thickener, stabilizer, and water-binding agent as well as have diverse biological activities that make it a suitable active ingredient in cosmetic products. The review paper is organized by starting with discussing the significant aspects related to carrageenan which are the source, structure, as well as general and biological properties of carrageenan that make it appropriate to be applied in cosmetics. This paper also highlighted the applications of carrageenan in cosmetics, followed by the extraction method and instrument used.     

In vitro antifungal activity of flavonoid diglycosides of Mentha piperita and their oxime derivatives against two cereals fungi

Flavonoids due to their various interesting biological properties such as antifungal activity were investigated in Mentha piperita leaves. The butanolic fraction obtained from the hydro-alcoholic crude extract of M. piperita is rich in flavonoids; it reduced in vitro the mycelium growth of Phoma sorghina and Fusarium moniliforme around 72% and 55%, respectively, when used at a concentration of 5 mg/ml. In addition, the chemical conversion of the flavonoids in the butanolic fraction into their oxime derivatives increased the antifungal activity since the percentage of inhibition increased to 84% and 65% against P. sorghina and F. moniliforme, respectively, at 5 mg/ml. Butanolic fraction and oxime inhibition effects on spore germination of the two fungi were also observed. These results suggest that, M. piperita flavonoids could be used as botanical fungicides to protect cereals against infection from P. sorghina and F. moniliforme.     

The young fruit of Citrus aurantium L. or Citrus sinensis Osbeck as a natural health food: A deep insight into the scientific evidence of its health benefits

Fruits are consumed as foods or medicines to supply people with nutrition or treat diseases. Zhishi, the dried young fruit of Citrus aurantium L. or Citrus sinensis Osbeck, is one of the most representative health food from the fruit of the Citrus genus. It is widely used in flavorings, canned food, beverages, and medicines because of its outstanding curative effects. The bidirectional regulating effect of Zhishi on the gastrointestinal tract for treating food stagnation or diarrhea has been confirmed. Its active ingredients, including synephrine and N-methyltyramine, have been used clinically as blood pressure boosting and anti-shock drugs. Flavonoids and alkaloids of Zhishi also make it potential weight loss and beauty products due to their definite effectiveness and safety. This paper intends to review the different therapeutic applications of Zhishi and the phytochemicals associated with its medicinal values. Besides, up-to-date information on its botany and analytical methods for the quality control of the medicine is supplied. To conclude, numerous independent research on Zhishi have been conducted in the past decades, but most of them are not deep enough in elucidating its scientific evidence of its health benefits. Further studies may unveil additional pharmacological activities and is beneficial to the mankind.     

Antioxidant and Cytoprotective Properties of Plant Extract from Dry Flowers as Functional Dyes for Cosmetic Products

Nowadays, natural dyes are expected by the cosmetic and food industries. In contrast to synthetic dyes, colorants derived from natural sources are more environmentally friendly and safer for human health. In this work, plant extracts from Gomphrena globasa L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Punica granatum L. and Papaver rhoeas L. as the natural and functional dyes for the cosmetics industry were assessed. Cytotoxicity on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines was determined as well as antioxidant and anti-aging properties by determining their ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase enzymes. In addition, the composition of the extracts was determined. The obtained extracts were also applied in face cream formulation and color analyses were performed. It has been shown that the obtained extracts were characterized by no cytotoxicity and a high antioxidant potential. The extracts also show strong ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and moderate ability to inhibit elastase and provide effective and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Application analyses showed that the extracts of P. rhoeas L., C. ternatea L. and C. tinctorius L. can be used as effective cosmetic dyes that allow for attainment of an intense and stable color during the storage of the product. The extracts of P. granatum L. and G. globasa L., despite their beneficial effects as active ingredients, did not work effectively as cosmetic dyes, because cosmetic emulsions with these extracts did not differ significantly in color from emulsions without the extract.     

The first quantitative rating system of the antioxidant capacity of beauty creams via the Briggs-Rauscher reaction: a crucial step towards evidence-based cosmetics

Oxidative damage is the primary cause of skin aging. Skin care products are numerous and overwhelming, yet there is certain similarity among different formulations. Moisturizers are ubiquitous and the presence of particular added ingredients supports specific marketing claims. The antioxidant effects of botanical polyphenols possess tremendous marketing appeal, because oxidative stress is caused by an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the skin ability to neutralize them. The concept of evidence-based cosmetics lacks a widely accepted method to estimate the antioxidant capacity of the beauty cream. This was the motive force of the present study: for the first time we put forth a quantitative rating system of skin care products. The overall antioxidant power of 75 widely used and advertised beauty creams was comparatively measured via the oscillating Briggs-Rauscher (BR) reaction. Many dermocosmetic products confirmed their ability to ensure protection against free radicals, even if differences among various creams are striking and often not correlated with the their price. The method we developed is simple and cheap and it can allow dermatologists and consumers to compare and choose effectively; on the other hand, producers can used this method to select the most active antioxidant cosmetic agent to optimise the product performance.     

Identification of Mushroom and Murine Tyrosinase Inhibitors from Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Extract

Growing scientific evidence indicates that Achillea biebersteinii is a valuable source of active ingredients with potential cosmetic applications. However, the data on its composition and pharmacological properties are still insufficient. This study aims to optimize the extraction procedure of the plant material, evaluate its phytochemical composition, and compare anti-tyrosinase potential of A. biebersteinii extracts obtained by various methods. In order to identify compounds responsible for the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of A. biebersteinii, the most active anti-tyrosinase extract was fractionated by column chromatography. The fractions were examined for their skin lightening potential by mushroom and murine tyrosinase inhibitory assays and melanin release assay. HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS/MS analysis of the total extract revealed the presence of several phenolic acids, flavonoids, flavonoid glucosides, and carboxylic acid. Among them, fraxetin-8-O-glucoside, quercetin-O-glucopyranose, schaftoside/isoschaftoside, gmelinin B, 1,3-dicaffeoylquinic acid (1,3-DCQA), and ferulic acid were found in the fractions with the highest skin lightening potential. Based on obtained qualitative and quantitative analysis of the fractions, it was assumed that the caffeoylquinic acid derivatives and dicaffeoylquinic acid derivatives are more likely responsible for mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity of A. biebersteinii extracts and fractions. Ferulic acid was proposed as the most active murine tyrosinase inhibitor, responsible also for the reduced melanin release from B16F10 murine melanoma cells.     

Development of a natural ingredient – Natural preservative: A case study

Lately, the cosmetic and personal care market has been more and more driven toward natural ingredients by the rising consumers' awareness about personal health and safety and their will for safer cosmetics free of harmful chemicals. Preservatives are no exception to the rule: evidence or suspicion of the toxicity of certain synthetic preservatives that have been around for decades pushed the cosmetic industry forward to seek for natural alternatives, as the selection of natural preservatives already available is quite limited. Sourcing active metabolites and developing new natural ingredients are long-term procedures that are thoroughly described in the present paper, via the example of the design of a natural preservative based on the Santolina chamaecyparissus extract, and of the assessments of its preservative effectiveness.     

Quantitative analysis of flavonoids and phenolic acids in Arnica montana L. by micellar electrokinetic capillary chromatography

Arnica montana preparations have been used in Europe for centuries to treat skin disorders. Among the biologically active ingredients in the flower heads of the plant are sequiterpenes, flavonoids and phenolic acids. For the simultaneous determination of compounds belonging to the latter two groups a micellar electrokinetic capillary chromatography (MEKC) method was developed and validated. By using an electrolyte solution containing 50 mM borax, 25 mM sodium dodecyl sulfate and 30% of acetonitrile the separation of seven flavonoids and four caffeic acid derivatives was feasible in less than 20 min. The optimized system was validated for repeatability (σ_rel ≤ 4.4%), precision (inter-day σ_rel ≤ 8.13%, intra-day σ_rel ≤ 4.32%), accuracy (recovery rates from 96.8 to 102.4%), sensitivity (limit of detection (LOD) ≤ 4.5 μg mL⁻¹) and linearity (R² ≥ 0.9996), and then successfully applied to assay several plant samples. In all of them the most dominant flavonoid was found to be quercetin 3-O-glucuronic acid, whereas 3,5-dicaffeoylquinic acid was the major phenolic acid; the total content of flavonoids and phenolic acids varied in the samples from 0.60 to 1.70%, and 1.03 to 2.24%, respectively.     

Colorants and oils in Roman make-ups–an eye witness account

Archaeological cosmetics, as well as revealing ancient knowledge, contain a complex mixture of very different organic and inorganic components with diverse properties. Most information on the preparation of ancient cosmetics comes from classical texts. However, although analysis of products contained in archaeological objects has recently identified some ingredients, there is still little known about how the cosmetics were prepared.Using a multi-analytical approach, we studied the chemical composition of two Roman pink make-ups that were preserved on the surface of a Roman bronze cosmetic tool and in a glass unguentarium. The results revealed that both make-ups were colored by madder lake but prepared in two different ways and with two completely different matrices (i.e. scented oils in the first case and gypsum in the second) highlighting that the make-ups had been prepared thoroughly, the ingredients carefully selected and their properties and possibilities for good cosmetic use had been understood.     

Characterization of the Phenolic Fingerprint of Kolovi Extra Virgin Olive Oils from Lesvos with Regard to Altitude and Farming System Analyzed by UHPLC-QTOF-MS

Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) is recognized for its nutritional virtues and the beneficial health effects deriving from its hydrophilic fraction (phenolic acids, phenolic alcohols, flavonoids, and secoiridoids). The phenolic compounds of EVOOs possess multiple biological properties such as antioxidant, antimicrobial, anticarcinogenic, and anti-inflammatory properties, among others. Considering that EVOOs produced in Greece are recognized as high-quality products due to their rich phenolic content, it is imperative to characterize Greek monovarietal EVOOs and ensure that their uniqueness is closely linked to their botanical and territorial origin. In this work, an ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography–quadrupole time-of-flight tandem mass spectrometry (UHPLC-QTOF-MS) analytical method combined with target and suspect screening was used to characterize monovarietal EVOOs of the Kolovi variety from Lesvos, and thereby establish their phenolic fingerprint. Overall, 25 phenols were determined, and the total quantification and semi-quantification results ranged between 251 and 1230 mg/kg, highlighting the high phenolic content of the Kolovi variety from the island of Lesvos in the North Aegean.     

Green Extraction of Antioxidant Flavonoids from Pigeon Pea (Cajanus cajan (L.) Millsp.) Seeds and Its Antioxidant Potentials Using Ultrasound-Assisted Methodology

Pigeon pea is an important pea species in the Fabaceae family that has long been used for food, cosmetic, and other phytopharmaceutical applications. Its seed is reported as a rich source of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory flavonoids, especially isoflavones, i.e., cajanin, cajanol, daidzein, and genistein. In today’s era of green chemistry and green cosmetic development, the development and optimization of extraction techniques is increasing employed by the industrial sectors to provide environmentally friendly products for their customers. Surprisingly, there is no research report on improving the extraction of these isoflavonoids from pigeon pea seeds. In this present study, ultrasound-assisted extraction (USAE) methodology, which is a green extraction that provides a shorter extraction time and consumes less solvent, was optimized and compared with the conventional methods. The multivariate strategy, the Behnken–Box design (BBD) combined with response surface methodology, was employed to determine the best extraction conditions for this USAE utilizing ethanol as green solvent. Not only in vitro but also cellular antioxidant activities were evaluated using different assays and approaches. The results indicated that USAE provided a substantial gain of ca 70% in the (iso)flavonoids extracted and the biological antioxidant activities were preserved, compared to the conventional method. The best extraction conditions were 39.19 min with a frequency of 29.96 kHz and 63.81% (v/v) aqueous ethanol. Both the antioxidant and anti-aging potentials of the extract were obtained under optimal USAE at a cellular level using yeast as a model, resulting in lower levels of malondialdehyde. These results demonstrated that the extract can act as an effective activator of the cell longevity protein (SIR2/SIRT1) and cell membrane protector against oxidative stress. This finding supports the potential of pigeon pea seeds and USAE methodology to gain potential antioxidant and anti-aging (iso)flavonoids-rich sources for the cosmetic and phytopharmaceutical sectors.     

Bioactivity‐based ultra‐performance liquid chromatography‐coupled quadrupole time‐of‐flight mass spectrometry for NF‐κB inhibitors identification in Chinese Medicinal Preparation Bufei Granule

Traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) preparations have become effective treatments for many diseases. However, their active ingredients are still uncertain and difficult to identify. In this study, we propose a strategy that integrates ultra‐performance liquid chromatography/quadrupole‐time‐of‐flight mass spectrometry (UPLC/Q‐TOF‐MS) and bioactive (NF‐κB inhibitor) luciferase reporter assay systems for the rapid determination of various anti‐inflammatory compounds of TCM preparations. In this way, Bufei Granule (BFG), a TCM preparation used for the clinical therapy of asthma, was analyzed by the two ways of component identification and activity detection. Potential anti‐inflammatory constituents were screened by NF‐κB activity assay systems and simultaneously identified according to the mass spectrometry data. Three structural types of NF‐κB inhibitors (caffeic acid derivatives, flavonoids and Pentacyclic triterpenes) were characterized. Further cytokine detection confirmed the anti‐inflammatory effects of the potential NF‐κB inhibitors. Compared with conventional chromatographic separation and inhibitory activity detection, integrating UPLC/Q‐TOF‐MS identification and virtual validation was more convenient and more reliable. This strategy clearly demonstrates that MS data‐based fingerprinting is a meaningful tool not only in identifying constituents in complex matrix but also in directly screening for powerful trace ingredients in TCM preparations. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.