Simple LC Method with Chemiluminescence Detection for Simultaneous Determination of Arbutin and l-Ascorbic Acid in Whitening Cosmetics

Simultaneous determination of arbutin (ART) and l-ascorbic acid (AA) by HPLC with chemiluminescence detection is proposed for the first time. This method is based on the CL reaction of acidic potassium permanganate with ART and AA in the presence of formaldehyde as enhancer. The separation was performed on a C₁₈ column with a 90:10 (v/v) mixture of 0.02 M phosphate buffer and methanol as mobile phase. The effects of several conditions on HPLC resolution and CL emission were studied systematically. The linear ranges were 0.5–50 and 1–200 μg mL⁻¹ for ART and AA, respectively. The detection limits were 0.2 and 0.3 μg mL⁻¹, respectively. The method was successfully applied to the determination of ART and AA in whitening cosmetics.     

气相色谱-串联质谱法同时测定化妆品中28种香料成分北大核心CSCD

随着化妆品种类的日益增多,化妆品中的香精香料成分受到了越来越多人的关注,建立化妆品中香精香料成分的分析测定方法是消除人们担忧最有效的措施之一。该研究建立了气相色谱-串联质谱(GC-MS/MS)同时测定化妆品中28种香料残留的方法。样品由甲醇提取,含油脂较多的经中性氧化铝固相萃取小柱净化,色素多、基质复杂的由QuEChERS净化,待测物采用GC-MS/MS测定,以保留时间和特征离子对定性,外标法定量。实验结果表明,分析物质的检出限(S/N=3)为2~20μg/kg,定量限(S/N>10)为5~50μg/kg。28种物质分别在1~100、2~200、4~200、10~1 000μg/L范围内线性关系良好,分析物质的线性相关系数(r^(2))>0.999。在空白样品中添加28种香料,添加水平为50~500μg/kg时,回收率范围为71.3%~120.4%, RSD范围为1.5%~14.6%。该方法可对28种香料成分进行准确测定,不但可以有效排除复杂基体的干扰,而且简单、灵敏、稳定,能够很好地应用于化妆品中香料的含量测定。通过该方法对16种化妆品中的香精香料成分进行测定,发现12种化妆品中均检出相关香料成分,说明化妆品中的香精香料安全应引起重视。     

分散固相萃取净化/液相色谱-串联质谱法测定化妆品中7种氨基苯甲醚

建立了同时测定化妆品中7种氨基苯甲醚类化合物(邻氨基苯甲醚、间氨基苯甲醚、对氨基苯甲醚、2,4-二氨基苯甲醚、2,5-二氨基苯甲醚、3,4-二氨基苯甲醚、3,3'-二甲氧基联苯胺)的分散固相萃取净化液相色谱-串联质谱(LC-MS/MS)分析方法。样品用甲醇-水(1∶1,含0.1%甲酸)溶液提取,经PSA分散固相萃取净化后,样液经Welch Ultimats XB-C_(18)(4.6 mm×150 mm,5μm)色谱柱分离,多反应监测(MRM)模式检测,以保留时间和特征离子对定性,外标法定量。结果表明,7种氨基苯甲醚类化合物在0.10~200.0μg/L浓度范围内线性关系良好,相关系数均大于0.998;方法检出限(S/N=3)为0.4~10.9μg/kg。样品日内回收率为64.7%~98.1%,相对标准偏差(RSD,n=6)为1.2%~10.6%;日间精密度(n=5)为2.3%~9.8%。对30个不同水剂类化妆品检测发现,其中1个样品检出3,3'-二甲氧基联苯胺,含量为5.3μg/kg。该方法准确可靠,适用于化妆品中7种氨基苯甲醚的同时测定。     

超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法同时测定祛痘化妆品中的15种禁用雄激素

建立了同时测定祛痘化妆品中15种禁用雄激素(肾上腺甾酮、群勃龙、勃地酮、氟甲睾酮、氧甲氢龙、雄烯二酮、诺龙、去氢甲睾酮、睾酮、去氢表雄酮、氯司替勃、雄诺龙、美雄诺龙、醋酸氯睾酮、丙酸睾丸素)的超高效液相色谱-串联质谱方法。不同类型的化妆品样品,以甲醇为提取溶剂进行超声提取,样品提取液经离心处理后,上清液以Oasis HLB固相萃取柱净化,经ACQUITY UPLC BEH C18(2.1 mm×50 mm,1.7μm)色谱柱分离,目标化合物在正离子模式下电离,采用多反应监测模式进行定性、定量分析。结果表明,15种禁用雄激素的定量下限为1.0~20.0μg/kg,在低、中、高3个加标水平下的平均回收率为76.5%~92.1%,相对标准偏差为1.3%~9.6%。本方法准确、快速、灵敏,能够为祛痘化妆品检验和生产质量控制提供科学依据及技术支持。     

超高效液相色谱-二极管阵列检测法同时测定化妆品中22种防晒剂

建立了一种超高效液相色谱-二极管阵列检测法同时测定不同种类化妆品中22种防晒剂的方法。样品首先加入少量四氢呋喃,涡旋、分散、混匀(蜡质化妆品可于50 ℃超声,以便分散完全),然后加入0.1%(v/v)甲酸乙醇溶液振摇、超声提取,稀释、过滤后经Poroshell 120 EC-C₁₈(100 mm×4.6 mm, 2.7 μm)分离,乙腈-异丙醇-50 mmol/L乙酸铵水溶液(含0.05%(v/v)甲酸)梯度洗脱,二极管阵列检测器检测,检测波长311 nm,外标法定量。结果表明,22种防晒剂在各自的范围内线性关系良好,相关系数(r)均在0.998以上。选取两种不同基质类型的样品,在低、中、高3个不同添加水平下的平均回收率为85.2%~112.3%,相对标准偏差(RSD)在0.5%~6.5%之间,方法的检出限和定量限分别为0.7~64 mg/kg和2.4~215 mg/kg。在2、10、50 mg/L3个水平的混合标准溶液的稳定性试验中,甲酚曲唑三硅氧烷组分12 h内稳定,其余组分36 h内稳定。采用该方法测定市售16份化妆品中的防晒剂,其中5份样品检测结果与厂家提供的配方值匹配良好。与《化妆品安全技术规范》(2015年版)收载方法相比,该方法在流动相组成和提取溶剂选择方面,摒弃了四氢呋喃和高氯酸等腐蚀性溶剂的使用,改善了弱极性组分的提取效率,同时增加了检测组分二苯酮-2,被测物稳定性更好,实验操作更便利高效,分离效果更好,结果更准确,兼顾绿色环保,可用于化妆品防晒剂的日常检测。     

Natural Ingredients Common in the Trás-os-Montes Region (Portugal) for Use in the Cosmetic Industry: A Review about Chemical Composition and Antigenotoxic Properties

The natural cosmetics market has grown since consumers became aware of the concept of natural-based ingredients. A significant number of cosmetics have an ecological impact on the environment and carry noxious and chemically potent substances. Thus, the use of natural and organic cosmetics becomes increasingly important since it is clear that topical treatment with cosmeceuticals can help improve skin rejuvenation. A substantial investigation into the benefits that fruits and plants can bring to health is required. Studies have shown that antigenotoxic properties are linked to anti-aging properties. Several studies have shown potential antigenotoxicity in natural ingredients such as Almonds (Prunus dulcis), Elderberry (Sambucus nigra), Olives (Olea europaea), and Grapes (Vitis vinifera). This review presents an overview of research conducted on these natural ingredients, the most common in the Northeast of Portugal. This region of Portugal possesses the most organic farmers, and ingredients are easily obtained. The Northeast of Portugal also has climatic, topographic, and pedological differences that contribute to agricultural diversity.     

化妆品中8种呋喃香豆素的高效液相色谱法检测及质谱确证

建立了同时测定化妆品中8种呋喃香豆素类化合物(8-羟基补骨脂素、补骨脂素、异补骨脂素、8-甲氧基补骨脂素、5-甲氧基补骨脂素、三甲沙林、欧前胡素和异欧前胡素)的高效液相色谱分析方法及液相色谱-串联质谱确证方法。膏霜类、水剂类、香波类、散粉类、唇膏类等不同类型的化妆品样品分别经适宜的提取溶液进行超声提取,提取液以离心处理后,取上清液经微孔滤膜过滤后测定。采用Agilent Zorbax SB-Phenyl色谱柱(250 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm)分离,以甲醇-乙腈-水三元流动相梯度洗脱,流速1.0 mL/min,柱温30 ℃,检测波长250 nm。8-羟基补骨脂素的定量限为0.25 mg/kg,补骨脂素、异补骨脂素、8-甲氧基补骨脂素、5-甲氧基补骨脂素、三甲沙林、欧前胡素、异欧前胡素的定量限为0.5 mg/kg。在低、中、高3种加标水平下,8种待测组分的平均回收率为85.0%～105.8%,相对标准偏差为0.41%～7.90%。采用本方法在一日内不同时间点(6个时间点,每隔1 h测定一次)和不同日期(6 d内)测定混合标准溶液,得到8个目标物峰面积的日内精密度均小于1%,日间精密度均小于2%。该方法准确、简便、快速,适用于不同类型化妆品中8种呋喃香豆素类化合物的测定。     

亲水作用色谱-串联质谱法测定化妆品中三聚氰胺残留量

建立了化妆品中三聚氰胺的亲水作用色谱-质谱联用（HILIC-MS/MS）检测方法。样品经三氯乙酸溶液提取（脂溶性样品再经正己烷萃取)后,用混合型阳离子交换(MCX)反相固相萃取柱富集净化,用5 mmol/L乙酸铵水溶液(含0.1%甲酸)和乙腈作为流动相,以梯度洗脱方式在ZIC-HILIC色谱柱上实现分离,以电喷雾离子源正离子(ESI+)模式进行质谱分析。三聚氰胺在0.02～0.5 mg/L范围内呈良好线性关系,相关系数为0.9985;方法的检出限(LOD,信噪比(S/N)≥3)为5.0 μg/kg,定量限(LOQ,S/N＞10)为20.0 μg/kg;在0.01～0.1 mg/kg添加浓度范围内,三聚氰胺的平均回收率为84.7%～93.4%,相对标准偏差为4.5%～8.4%。该方法能满足化妆品中三聚氰胺残留量的检测。     

高效液相色谱-二极管阵列检测器同时测定化妆品中的九种染料及中间体

建立了用高效液相色谱-二极管阵列检测器(HPLC-PDA)同时检测9种染料及中间体的系统方法。首先采用超声提取的方法处理样品,对提取溶剂和提取时间进行了选择,确定用甲醇-0.01 mol/L 乙酸铵(体积比为2∶1)作提取溶剂,超声提取20 min。然后,采用C18柱,以甲醇-0.01 mol/L乙酸铵(pH 6.2)为流动相梯度洗脱,用PDA检测。以保留时间定性,并以紫外吸收光谱图辅助定性,以外标法定量。定量检测波长为230 nm,15 min内可对9种目标物同时进行测定,且各化合物都达到基线分离(分离度大于1.5)。经测定,该方法的平均回收率(n=8)为81.0%～105.6%,相对标准偏差（RSD）为0.8%～4.9%,检出限(以信噪比为3计)为0.1～2 μg。该方法简单、快速,能有效提取和分离测定化妆品中9种染料及中间体。将该方法用于实际化妆品样品的检测,结果令人满意。     

Experimental and statistical validation of HPLC analysis of hydroquinone and its 4-methoxyphenol, 4-ethoxyphenol and 4-benzyloxyphenol ethers in cosmetic products

Summary The isocratic HPLC analysis of hydroquinone and its derived ethers in cosmetic preparations, as described in the sixth Directive 95/32/EC of the European Commission, was investigated with a view to determining the fundamental validation parameters of the technique. The calibration lines are highly linear with coefficients of determination >0.9996; the slopes of the calibration equations as well as the slopes normalised to the standard deviations indicate increased sensitivities for all compounds. The method is very reproducible; both the repeatability and the intermediate precision confirm a system performance of <2% variation; the limits of repeatability and intermediate precision are consistently <6% for every compound studied. The detection limits correspond to concentrations of 0.03 and 0.02% (m:m) for hydroquinone and the derived ethers, respectively. Application of the response factor calculation gives reliable results and signifies a practical and economic advantage when compared to laborious calibration with several replicate standard injections. Comparison of the response factor and calibration techniques did not reveal significant differences. The obviously insufficiently efficient extraction preceding chromatographic analysis might constitute the only drawback of the method, especially when the concentrations applied border the allowable.