Uni-directional waves over slowly varying bottom. Part I: Derivation of a KdV-type of equation

The exact equations for surface waves over an uneven bottom can be formulated as a Hamiltonian system, with the total energy of the fluid as Hamiltonian. If the bottom variations are over a length scale L that is longer than the characteristic wavelength ℓ, approximating the kinetic energy for the case of “rather long and rather low” waves gives Boussinesq type of equations. If in the case of an even bottom one restricts further to uni-directional waves, the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) is obtained. For slowly varying bottom this uni-directionalization will be studied in detail in this part I, in a very direct way which is simpler than other derivations found in the literature. The surface elevation is shown to be described by a forced KdV-type of equation. The modification of the obtained KdV-equation shares the property of the standard KdV-equation that it has a Hamiltonian structure, but now the structure map depends explicitly on the spatial variable through the bottom topography. The forcing is derived explicitly, and the order of the forcing, compared to the first order contributions of dispersion and nonlinearity in KdV, is shown to depend on the ratio between ℓ and L; for very mild bottom variations, the forcing is negligible. For localized topography the effect of this forcing is investigated. In part II the distortion of solitary waves will be studied.     

非平整、多孔介质海底上波浪传播的复合方程

为了反映近岸区域实际存在的多孔介质海底效应，并且考虑到波浪在刚性海底上传播模型的 最新研究进展，运用Green第二恒等式建立了波浪在非平整、多孔介质海底上传播的复合方 程. 假设水深和多孔介质海底层厚度均由两种分量组成：慢变分量，其水平变化的长度尺度大于 表面波的波长；快变分量，其水平变化的长度尺度与表面波的波长等阶，但其振幅小于表面 波的振幅. 另外，多孔介质层下部边界的快变分量比水深的快变分量小1个量级. 针对水体层和多孔介质层，选择Green第二恒等式方法给出了波浪传播和渗透的复合方程， 它在交接面上满足压力和垂直渗透速度的连续性条件,可充分考虑波数变化的一般连续性， 并包含了某些著名的扩展型缓坡方程.     

A non-hydrostatic numerical scheme for dispersive waves generated by bottom motion

A numerical scheme based on the staggered finite volume method is presented at the aim of studying surface waves generated by a bottom motion. We address the 2D Euler equations in which the vertical domain is resolved only by one layer. The resulting non-hydrostatic scheme is used to simulate surface waves generated by bottom motion in a water tank. Here we mimic Hammack experiments numerically, in which a bed section is moved upwards or downwards, resulting in transient dispersive waves. For an impulsive downward bottom thrust, free surface responds in terms of a negative leading wave, followed with dispersive train of waves. For an upward bottom thrust, amplitude of the leading wave decays as the wave propagates, and no wave of permanent form evolves— instead, there appears a train of solitons. In this article, we show that our numerical scheme can produce the correct wave profiles, comparable with the analytical and experimental results of Hammack. Simulations using intermediate and slow bottom motions are also presented. In addition, we perform a simulation of a wave generated by submerged landslide, that compares well against previous numerical simulations. Via this simulation, we demonstrate that our scheme can incorporate a moving wet–dry boundary algorithm in the run-up simulation.     

缓坡方程的推广

为了描述水波和强烈的环境流在非平整海底上的相互作用,运用无旋运动的Lagrangian变分原理,对经典的Berkhoff缓坡方程进行了改进。假定水流沿水深方向基本上保持均匀性,这正如潮流运动的特征。海底地形由慢变、快变两个分量叠加构成;慢变分量满足缓坡逼近假定,快变分量的波长与表面波波长为同一量级,但其振幅小于表面波的振幅。在以上假定条件下,得到了适用于非平整海底的推广型浅水方程和应用性更加广泛的波－流－非平整海底相互作用的一般缓坡方程,并且从理论上证明一般缓坡方程包含了以下3种著名的缓坡型方程：经典的Berkhoff缓坡方程;波－流相互作用的Kirby缓坡方程、Dingemans关于沙纹海底的缓坡方程。最后,通过与Bragg反射实验数据的比较,表明该模型可以准确地反映快变海底的典型地貌特征。     

Propagation of Rayleigh waves on curved surfaces

The propagation and properties of Rayleigh waves on curved surfaces are investigated theoretically. The Rayleigh wave dispersion equation for propagation on a curved surface is derived as a parabolic equation, and its penetration depth is analyzed using the curved surface boundary. Reciprocity is introduced to model the diffracted Rayleigh wave beams. Simulations of Rayleigh waves on some canonical curved surfaces are carried out, and the results are used to quantify the influence of curvature. It is found that the velocity of the surface wave increases with greater concave surface curvature, and a Rayleigh wave no longer exists once the surface wave velocity exceeds the bulk shear wave velocity. Moreover, the predicted wave penetration depth indicates that the energy in the Rayleigh wave is transferred to other modes and cannot propagate on convex surfaces with large curvature. A strong directional dependence is observed for the propagation of Rayleigh waves in different directions on surfaces with complex curvatures. Thus, it is important to include dispersion effects when considering Rayleigh wave propagation on curved surfaces.     

Dynamic action of a tsunami wave traveling along a channel

The results of experiments, in which the propagation of a tsunami-type wave along rectangular channels with horizontal and inclined bottoms, are presented. Emphasis is placed on the mechanical action of the wave on a vertical wall. The force is shown to be appreciably dependent on the shape of the leading front of the wave. Experimental data are obtained for both smooth and breaking waves, as well as for waves in different stages of the wave-breaking process.     

Response of ocean bottom dwellers exposed to underwater shock waves

The paper reports results of experiments to estimate the mortality of ocean bottom dwellers, ostracoda, against underwater shock wave exposures. This study is motivated to verify the possible survival of ocean bottom dwellers, foraminifera, from the devastating underwater shock waves induced mass extinction of marine creatures which took place at giant asteroid impact events. Ocean bottom dwellers under study were ostracoda, the replacement of foraminifera, we readily sampled from ocean bottoms. An analogue experiment was performed on a laboratory scale to estimate the domain and boundary of over-pressures at which marine creatures’ mortality occurs. Ostracods were exposed to underwater shock waves generated by the explosion of 100mg PETN pellets in a chamber at shock over-pressures ranging up to 44MPa. Pressure histories were measured simultaneously on 113 samples. We found that bottom dwellers were distinctively killed against overpressures of 12MPa and this value is much higher than the usual shock over-pressure threshold value for marine-creatures having lungs and balloons.     

An implicit three‐dimensional fully non‐hydrostatic model for free‐surface flows

An implicit method is developed for solving the complete three‐dimensional (3D) Navier–Stokes equations. The algorithm is based upon a staggered finite difference Crank‐Nicholson scheme on a Cartesian grid. A new top‐layer pressure treatment and a partial cell bottom treatment are introduced so that the 3D model is fully non‐hydrostatic and is free of any hydrostatic assumption. A domain decomposition method is used to segregate the resulting 3D matrix system into a series of two‐dimensional vertical plane problems, for each of which a block tri‐diagonal system can be directly solved for the unknown horizontal velocity. Numerical tests including linear standing waves, nonlinear sloshing motions, and progressive wave interactions with uneven bottoms are performed. It is found that the model is capable to simulate accurately a range of free‐surface flow problems using a very small number of vertical layers (e.g. two–four layers). The developed model is second‐order accuracy in time and space and is unconditionally stable; and it can be effectively used to model 3D surface wave motions. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Internal solitary waves moving over the low slopes of topographies

Internal solitary waves moving over uneven bottoms are analyzed based on the reductive perturbation method, in which the amplitude, slope and horizontal lengthscale of a topography on the bottom are of the orders of , ^5/2 and ^−3/2, respectively, where the small parameter is also a measure of the wave amplitude. A free surface condition is adopted at the top of the fluid layer. That condition contains two parameters, δ and Δ, the first of which concerns the discontinuity of the basic density between the outer layer and the inner one; the second concerns the discontinuity of the mean density between them. An amplitude equation for the disturbance of order decomposes into a Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation and a system of algebraic equations for a stationary disturbance around a topography on the bottom. Solitary waves moving over a localized hill are studied in a simple case where both the basic flow speed and the Brunt-Vaisalla frequency are constant over the fluid layer. For this case, the expression for the amplitude of the stationary disturbance contains singular points with respect to basic flow speed. These singularities correspond to the resonant conditions modified by the free surface condition. The advancing speeds of solitary waves are changed by the influence of bottom topography, in a case where the long internal waves propagate in the direction opposite to the basic flow, but their waveforms remain almost unchanged.     

Numerical computations of two-dimensional solitary waves generated by moving disturbances

Two-dimensional solitary waves generated by disturbances moving near the critical speed in shallow water are computed by a time-stepping procedure combined with a desingularized boundary integral method for irrotational flow. The fully non-linear kinematic and dynamic free-surface boundary conditions and the exact rigid body surface condition are employed. Three types of moving disturbances are considered: a pressure on the free surface, a change in bottom topography and a submerged cylinder. The results for the free surface pressure are compared to the results computed using a lower-dimensional model, i.e. the forced Korteweg–de Vries (fKdV) equation. The fully non-linear model predicts the upstream runaway solitons for all three types of disturbances moving near the critical speed. The predictions agree with those by the fKdV equation for a weak pressure disturbance. For a strong disturbance, the fully non-linear model predicts larger solitons than the fKdV equation. The fully non-linear calculations show that a free surface pressure generates significantly larger waves than that for a bottom bump with an identical non-dimensional forcing function in the fKdV equation. These waves can be very steep and break either upstream or downstream of the disturbance.     

时域Rankine源法求解有限水深船舶在规则波中的水底压力变化

应用势流理论中的Rankine源面元法和时域步进法,求解了有限水深船舶在规则波中运动的水底压力变化。将速度势分解成基本势、局部势和记忆势,以叠模解作为基本势对自由表面条件和物面条件进行了线性化,通过在水底布置面元来满足水底条件。利用研制的水底压力-水面波浪测量系统,测量了不同入射波船模表面波形与水底压力的时历曲线,理论计算与实验结果符合较好,验证了自编程序的正确性。通过对比二者的等高线图发现,水底压力与表面波形的峰谷有较好的一致性,并且压力较波形更为平滑。     

Dynamics of spiral waves driven by a dichotomous periodic signal

We study the effects of a dichotomous periodic force on meandering and rigidly rotating spiral waves. For a meandering state, the periodic forcing induces more modulating frequencies according to the rules of frequency-locked relations and linear combinations. It can also generate some unique closed tip orbits. On the modulating period T-axis, there exist all kinds of resonant entrainment bands. Arnold tongues exist in the period-amplitude space. The width of entrainment bands is affected by the symmetry of positive and negative parts in each signal unit. In addition, appropriate choices of T-value can be used to eliminate spiral waves. For a rigidly rotating state, the periodic forcing can induce a transition toward meandering spiral waves via generating a transitive bidirectional spiral wave. It is very interesting that, after the transition, the meandering spiral wave has the same primary rotating period as the free meandering states.     

An intermediate wavelength, weakly nonlinear theory for the evolution of capillary gravity waves

A new nonlinear evolution equation is derived for surface solitary waves propagating on a liquid-air interface where the wave motion is induced by a harmonic forcing. Instead of the traditional approach involving a base state of the long wave limit, a base state of harmonic waves is assumed for the perturbation analysis. This approach is considered to be more appropriate for channels of length just a few multiples of the depth. The dispersion relation found approaches the classical long wave limit. The weakly nonlinear dispersive waves satisfy a KdV-like nonlinear evolution equation with steeper nonlinearity.     

Water wave interaction with a sphere in a two-layer fluid flowing through a channel of finite depth

Using linear water wave theory, we consider a three-dimensional problem involving the interaction of waves with a sphere in a fluid consisting of two layers with the upper layer and lower layer bounded above and below, respectively, by rigid horizontal walls, which are approximations of the free surface and the bottom surface; these walls can be assumed to constitute a channel. The effects of surface tension at the surface of separation is neglected. For such a situation time-harmonic waves propagate with one wave number only, unlike the case when one of the layers is of infinite depth with the waves propagating with two wave numbers. Method of multipole expansions is used to find the particular solutions for the problems of wave radiation and scattering by a submerged sphere placed in either of the upper or lower layer. The added-mass and damping coefficients for heave and sway motions are derived and plotted against various values of the wave number. Similarly the exciting forces due to heave and sway motions are evaluated and presented graphically. The features of the results find good agreement with previously available results from the point of view of physical interpretation.     

Tests of a new numerical scheme on a “non-reflection and free-transmission” open-sea boundary for longwaves

A new numerical scheme of a “non-reflection and free-transmission” boundary for longwave equations proposed by Hino (1987) has been tested for a variety of cases. The test results verify the effectiveness of the method for (a) a single progressive wave train on a horizontal bottom, (b) two wave trains each propagating in opposite directions on a horizontal bottom, (c) a single wave train propagating on a sloping bottom with friction, (d) oscillatory flood waves in an open channel flow, (e) two-dimensional waves travelling obliquely to open boundaries and (f) water surface oscillation in a harbor by waves incident through an opening.     

Extended Mild-Slope Equation

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Modeling nonlinear Rayleigh wave fields generated by angle beam wedge transducers—A theoretical study

Nonlinear Rayleigh wave fields generated by an angle beam wedge transducer are modeled in this study. The calculated area sound sources underneath the wedge are used to model the fundamental Rayleigh sound fields on the specimen surface, which are more accurate than the previously used line sources with uniform or Gaussian amplitude distributions. A general two-dimensional nonlinear Rayleigh wave equation without parabolic approximation is introduced and the solutions are obtained using the quasilinear theory. The second harmonic Rayleigh wave due to material nonlinearity is given in an integral expression with these fundamental Rayleigh waves radiated by the wedge transmitter acting as a forcing function. Multi-Gaussian beam (MGB) models are employed to simplify these integral solutions and to extract the diffraction and attenuation correction terms explicitly. The effect of nonlinearity of generating sources on the second harmonic Rayleigh wave fields is taken into consideration; simulation results show that it will affect the magnitude and diffraction correction of the second harmonic waves in the region close to the Rayleigh wave sound sources. This research provides a theoretical improvement to alleviate the experimental restriction on analyzing the effects of diffraction, attenuation and source nonlinearity when using angle beam wedge transducers as transmitters.     

High-frequency scattering of elastic waves from cylindrical cavities

The scattering of time-harmonic plane longitudinal elastic waves by smooth convex cylindrical cavities is investigated. The exact solution for a circle is evaluated for wavelengths of the same order as the radius, and the geometrical and physical elastodynamics approximations are shown to be inadequate. The application of Watson's transformation exhibits the various diffraction effects and the relative importance of each is assessed. Excellent approximations for the scattered far-field are obtained with a hybrid method, in which an approximation for the surface field is constructed from the creeping wave contributions and this is then used in an integral representation. A generalization, based on the Geometrical Theory of Diffraction, of the hybrid method to cavities of smooth convex cross-section is presented and applied to the specific case of an ellipse. The predictions of the hybrid method compare well with numerical results obtained by an eigenfunction expansion method.     

Surface Water Waves and Tsunamis

Because of the enormous earthquake in Sumatra on December 26, 2004, and the devastating tsunami which followed, I have chosen the focus of my mini-course lectures at this year’s PASI to be on two topics which involve the dynamics of surface water waves. These topics are of interest to mathematicians interested in wave propagation, and particularly to Chilean scientists, I believe, because of Chile’s presence on the tectonically active Pacific Rim. My first lecture will describe the equations of fluid dynamics for the free surface above a body of fluid (the ocean surface), and the linearized equations of motion. From this, we can predict the travel time of the recent tsunami from its epicenter off of the north Sumatra coast to the coast of nearby Thailand, the easy coasts of Sri Lanka and south India, and to Africa. In fact, the signal given by ocean waves generated by the Sumatra earthquake was felt globally; within 48 h distinguishable tsunami waves were measured by wave gages in Antarctica, Chile, Rio di Janeiro, the west coast of Mexico, the east coast of the United States, and at Halifax, Nova Scotia. To describe ocean waves, we will formulate the full nonlinear fluid dynamical equations as a Hamiltonian system [19], and we will introduce the Greens function and the Dirichlet-Neumann operator for the fluid domain along with the harmonic analysis of the theory of their regularity. From an asymptotic theory of scaling transformations, we will derive the known Boussinesq-like systems and the KdV and KP equations, which govern the asymptotic behavior of tsunami waves over an idealized flat bottom. When the bottom is no longer assumed to be perfectly flat, a related theory [6, 13] gives a family of model equations taking this into account. My second lecture will describe a series of recent results in PDE, numerical results, and experimental results on the nonlinear interactions of solitary surface water waves. In contrast with the case of the KdV equations (and certain other integrable PDE), the Euler equations for a free surface do not admit clean (‘elastic’) interactions between solitary wave solutions. This has been a classical concern of oceanographers for several decades, but only recently have there been sufficiently accurate and thorough numerical simulations which quantify the degree to which solitary waves lose energy during interactions [3, 4]. It is striking that this degree of ‘inelasticity’ is remarkably small. I will describe this work, as well as recent results on the initial value problem which are very relevant to this phenomenon [14, 18].