Dynamic action of a tsunami wave traveling along a channel

The results of experiments, in which the propagation of a tsunami-type wave along rectangular channels with horizontal and inclined bottoms, are presented. Emphasis is placed on the mechanical action of the wave on a vertical wall. The force is shown to be appreciably dependent on the shape of the leading front of the wave. Experimental data are obtained for both smooth and breaking waves, as well as for waves in different stages of the wave-breaking process.