A higher‐order Boussinesq‐type model with moving bottom boundary: applications to submarine landslide tsunami waves

A two‐dimensional depth‐integrated numerical model is developed using a fourth‐order Boussinesq approximation for an arbitrary time‐variable bottom boundary and is applied for submarine‐landslide‐generated waves. The mathematical formulation of model is an extension of (4,4) Padé approximant for moving bottom boundary. The mathematical formulations are derived based on a higher‐order perturbation analysis using the expanded form of velocity components. A sixth‐order multi‐step finite difference method is applied for spatial discretization and a sixth‐order Runge–Kutta method is applied for temporal discretization of the higher‐order depth‐integrated governing equations and boundary conditions. The present model is validated using available three‐dimensional experimental data and a good agreement is obtained. Moreover, the present higher‐order model is compared with fully potential three‐dimensional models as well as Boussinesq‐type multi‐layer models in several cases and the differences are discussed. The high accuracy of the present numerical model in considering the nonlinearity effects and frequency dispersion of waves is proven particularly for waves generated in intermediate and deeper water area. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A high‐order Petrov–Galerkin finite element method for the classical Boussinesq wave model

A high‐order Petrov–Galerkin finite element scheme is presented to solve the one‐dimensional depth‐integrated classical Boussinesq equations for weakly non‐linear and weakly dispersive waves. Finite elements are used both in the space and the time domains. The shape functions are bilinear in space–time, whereas the weighting functions are linear in space and quadratic in time, with C⁰‐continuity. Dispersion correction and a highly selective dissipation mechanism are introduced through additional streamline upwind terms in the weighting functions. An implicit, conditionally stable, one‐step predictor–corrector time integration scheme results. The accuracy and stability of the non‐linear discrete equations are investigated by means of a local Taylor series expansion. A linear spectral analysis is used for the full characterization of the predictor–corrector inner iterations. Based on the order of the analytical terms of the Boussinesq model and on the order of the numerical discretization, it is concluded that the scheme is fourth‐order accurate in terms of phase velocity. The dissipation term is third order only affecting the shortest wavelengths. A numerical convergence analysis showed a second‐order convergence rate in terms of both element size and time step. Four numerical experiments are addressed and their results are compared with analytical solutions or experimental data available in the literature: the propagation of a solitary wave, the oscillation of a flat bottom closed basin, the oscillation of a non‐flat bottom closed basin, and the propagation of a periodic wave over a submerged bar. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A horizontally curvilinear non‐hydrostatic model for simulating nonlinear wave motion in curved boundaries

A horizontally curvilinear non‐hydrostatic free surface model that embeds the second‐order projection method, the so‐called θ scheme, in fractional time stepping is developed to simulate nonlinear wave motion in curved boundaries. The model solves the unsteady, Navier–Stokes equations in a three‐dimensional curvilinear domain by incorporating the kinematic free surface boundary condition with a top‐layer boundary condition, which has been developed to improve the numerical accuracy and efficiency of the non‐hydrostatic model in the standard staggered grid layout. The second‐order Adams–Bashforth scheme with the third‐order spatial upwind method is implemented in discretizing advection terms. Numerical accuracy in terms of nonlinear phase speed and amplitude is verified against the nonlinear Stokes wave theory over varying wave steepness in a two‐dimensional numerical wave tank. The model is then applied to investigate the nonlinear wave characteristics in the presence of dispersion caused by reflection and diffraction in a semicircular channel. The model results agree quantitatively with superimposed analytical solutions. Finally, the model is applied to simulate nonlinear wave run‐ups caused by wave‐body interaction around a bottom‐mounted cylinder. The numerical results exhibit good agreement with experimental data and the second‐order diffraction theory. Overall, it is shown that the developed model, with only three vertical layers, is capable of accurately simulating nonlinear waves interacting within curved boundaries. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

QALE‐FEM for modelling 3D overturning waves

A further development of the QALE‐FEM (quasi‐arbitrary Lagrangian–Eulerian finite element method) based on a fully nonlinear potential theory is presented in this paper. This development enables the QALE‐FEM to deal with three‐dimensional (3D) overturning waves over complex seabeds, which have not been considered since the method was devised by the authors of this paper in their previous works (J. Comput. Phys. 2006; 212 :52–72; J. Numer. Meth. Engng 2009; 78 :713–756). In order to tackle challenges associated with 3D overturning waves, two new numerical techniques are suggested. They are the techniques for moving the mesh and for calculating the fluid velocity near overturning jets, respectively. The developed method is validated by comparing its numerical results with experimental data and results from other numerical methods available in the literature. Good agreement is achieved. The computational efficiency of this method is also investigated for this kind of wave, which shows that the QALE‐FEM can be many times faster than other methods based on the same theory. Furthermore, 3D overturning waves propagating over a non‐symmetrical seabed or multiple reefs are simulated using the method. Some of these results have not been found elsewhere to the best of our knowledge. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A numerical method for the determination of weakly non‐hydrostatic non‐linear free surface wave propagation

A numerical method is described that may be used to determine the propagation characteristics of weakly non‐hydrostatic non‐linear free surface waves over a general, bottom topography. In shallow water of constant undisturbed depth, such waves are equivalent to the familiar cnoidal waves characterized by sharp crests and relatively flat troughs. For a certain range of parameters, these propagate without change of form by virtue of the weakly non‐hydrostatic balance in the vertical momentum equation. Effectively, this counters the tendency for the non‐linearity in a purely hydrostatic theory to lead to a continuously deforming surface wave profile. The realistic representation furnished by cnoidal wave theory of free surface waves in the shallow near‐shore zone has led to its utilization in evaluating their propagation characteristics. Nonetheless, the classic analytical theory is inapplicable to the case of wave propagation over a sloping beach or off‐shore sand bar topography. Under these conditions, a local change in form of the surface wave profile is anticipated before the waves break and knowing this is required in order to evaluate fully the propagation process. The efficacy of the numerical method is first demonstrated by comparing the solution for water of constant depth with the evaluation of the analytical solution expressed in terms of the Jacobian elliptic function cn. The general method described in the paper is then illustrated by experiments to determine the change in profile of weakly non‐hydrostatic non‐linear surface waves propagating over bed forms representative of those found in shallow coastal seas. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A depth‐integrated non‐hydrostatic finite element model for wave propagation

This paper presents a two‐dimensional finite element model for simulating dynamic propagation of weakly dispersive waves. Shallow water equations including extra non‐hydrostatic pressure terms and a depth‐integrated vertical momentum equation are solved with linear distributions assumed in the vertical direction for the non‐hydrostatic pressure and the vertical velocity. The model is developed based on the platform of a finite element model, CCHE2D. A physically bounded upwind scheme for the advection term discretization is developed, and the quasi second‐order differential operators of this scheme result in no oscillation and little numerical diffusion. The depth‐integrated non‐hydrostatic wave model is solved semi‐implicitly: the provisional flow velocity is first implicitly solved using the shallow water equations; the non‐hydrostatic pressure, which is implicitly obtained by ensuring a divergence‐free velocity field, is used to correct the provisional velocity, and finally the depth‐integrated continuity equation is explicitly solved to satisfy global mass conservation. The developed wave model is verified by an analytical solution and validated by laboratory experiments, and the computed results show that the wave model can properly handle linear and nonlinear dispersive waves, wave shoaling, diffraction, refraction and focusing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Further experiences with computing non‐hydrostatic free‐surface flows involving water waves

A semi‐implicit, staggered finite volume technique for non‐hydrostatic, free‐surface flow governed by the incompressible Euler equations is presented that has a proper balance between accuracy, robustness and computing time. The procedure is intended to be used for predicting wave propagation in coastal areas. The splitting of the pressure into hydrostatic and non‐hydrostatic components is utilized. To ease the task of discretization and to enhance the accuracy of the scheme, a vertical boundary‐fitted co‐ordinate system is employed, permitting more resolution near the bottom as well as near the free surface. The issue of the implementation of boundary conditions is addressed. As recently proposed by the present authors, the Keller‐box scheme for accurate approximation of frequency wave dispersion requiring a limited vertical resolution is incorporated. The both locally and globally mass conserved solution is achieved with the aid of a projection method in the discrete sense. An efficient preconditioned Krylov subspace technique to solve the discretized Poisson equation for pressure correction with an unsymmetric matrix is treated. Some numerical experiments to show the accuracy, robustness and efficiency of the proposed method are presented. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Non‐hydrostatic 3D free surface layer‐structured finite volume model for short wave propagation

In this paper a layer‐structured finite volume model for non‐hydrostatic 3D environmental free surface flow is presented and applied to several test cases, which involve the computation of gravity waves. The 3D unsteady momentum and mass conservation equations are solved in a collocated grid made of polyhedrons, which are built from a 2D horizontal unstructured mesh, by just adding several horizontal layers. The mesh built in such a way is unstructured in the horizontal plane, but structured in the vertical direction. This procedure simplifies the mesh generation and at the same time it produces a well‐oriented mesh for stratified flows, which are common in environmental problems. The model reduces to a 2D depth‐averaged shallow water model when one single layer is defined in the mesh. Pressure–velocity coupling is achieved by the Semi‐Implicit Method for Pressure‐Linked Equations algorithm, using Rhie–Chow interpolation to stabilize the pressure field. An attractive property of the model proposed is the ability to compute the propagation of short waves with a rather coarse vertical discretization. Several test cases are solved in order to show the capabilities and numerical stability of the model, including a rectangular free oscillating basin, a radially symmetric wave, short wave propagation over a 1D bar, solitary wave runup on a vertical wall, and short wave refraction over a 2D shoal. In all the cases the numerical results are compared either with analytical or with experimental data. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Three‐dimensional numerical modelling of free surface flows with non‐hydrostatic pressure

A three‐dimensional numerical model is developed for incompressible free surface flows. The model is based on the unsteady Reynolds‐averaged Navier–Stokes equations with a non‐hydrostatic pressure distribution being incorporated in the model. The governing equations are solved in the conventional sigma co‐ordinate system, with a semi‐implicit time discretization. A fractional step method is used to enable the pressure to be decomposed into its hydrostatic and hydrodynamic components. At every time step one five‐diagonal system of equations is solved to compute the water elevations and then the hydrodynamic pressure is determined from a pressure Poisson equation. The model is applied to three examples to simulate unsteady free surface flows where non‐hydrostatic pressures have a considerable effect on the velocity field. Emphasis is focused on applying the model to wave problems. Two of the examples are about modelling small amplitude waves where the hydrostatic approximation and long wave theory are not valid. The other example is the wind‐induced circulation in a closed basin. The numerical solutions are compared with the available analytical solutions for small amplitude wave theory and very good agreement is obtained. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Simulation of non‐linear free surface motions in a cylindrical domain using a Chebyshev–Fourier spectral collocation method

When a liquid is perturbed, its free surface may experience highly non‐linear motions in response. This paper presents a numerical model of the three‐dimensional hydrodynamics of an inviscid liquid with a free surface. The mathematical model is based on potential theory in cylindrical co‐ordinates with a σ‐transformation applied between the bed and free surface in the vertical direction. Chebyshev spectral elements discretize space in the vertical and radial directions; Fourier spectral elements are used in the angular direction. Higher derivatives are approximated using a collocation (or pseudo‐spectral) matrix method. The numerical scheme is validated for non‐linear transient sloshing waves in a cylindrical tank containing a circular surface‐piercing cylinder at its centre. Excellent agreement is obtained with Ma and Wu's [Second order transient waves around a vertical cylinder in a tank. Journal of Hydrodynamics 1995; Ser. B4 : 72–81] second‐order potential theory. Further evidence for the capability of the scheme to predict complicated three‐dimensional, and highly non‐linear, free surface motions is given by the evolution of an impulse wave in a cylindrical tank and in an open domain. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Free‐surface flow over a semi‐circular obstruction

The fully non‐linear free‐surface flow over a semi‐circular bottom obstruction was studied numerically in two dimensions using a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian formulation. The problem was solved in the time domain that allows the prediction of a number of transient phenomena, such as the generation of upstream advancing solitary waves, as well as the simulation of wave breaking. A parametric study was performed for a range of values of the depth‐based Froude number up to 2.5 and non‐dimensional obstacle heights, α up to 0.9. When wave breaking does not occur, three distinct flow regimes were identified: subcritical, transcritical and supercritical. When breaking occurs it may be of any type: spilling, plunging or surging. In addition, for values of the Froude number close to 1, the upstream solitary waves break. A systematic study was undertaken to define the boundaries of each type of breaking and non‐breaking pattern and to determine the drag and lift coefficients, free‐surface profile characteristics and transient behavior. Copyright © 1999 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Numerical study of breaking waves by a two‐phase flow model

A two‐phase flow model, which solves the flow in the air and water simultaneously, is presented for modelling breaking waves in deep and shallow water, including wave pre‐breaking, overturning and post‐breaking processes. The model is based on the Reynolds‐averaged Navier–Stokes equations with the k ?ε turbulence model. The governing equations are solved by the finite volume method in a Cartesian staggered grid and the partial cell treatment is implemented to deal with complex geometries. The SIMPLE algorithm is utilised for the pressure‐velocity coupling and the air‐water interface is modelled by the interface capturing method via a high resolution volume of fluid scheme. The numerical model is validated by simulating overturning waves on a sloping beach and over a reef, and deep‐water breaking waves in a periodic domain, in which good agreement between numerical results and available experimental measurements for the water surface profiles during wave overturning is obtained. The overturning jet, air entrainment and splash‐up during wave breaking have been captured by the two‐phase flow model, which demonstrates the capability of the model to simulate free surface flow and wave breaking problems.Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Numerical solution for the second‐order wave interaction with porous structures

This study mathematically formulates the fluid field of a water‐wave interaction with a porous structure as a two‐dimensional, non‐linear boundary value problem (bvp) in terms of a generalized velocity potential. The non‐linear bvp is reformulated into an infinite set of linear bvps of ascending order by Stokes perturbation technique, with wave steepness as the perturbation parameter. Only the first‐ and second‐order linear bvps are retained in this study. Each linear bvp is transformed into a boundary integral equation. In addition, the boundary element method (BEM) with linear elements is developed and applied to solve the first‐ and second‐order integral equations. The first‐ and second‐order wave profiles, reflection and transmission coefficients, and the amplitude ratio of the second‐order components are computed as well. The numerical results correlate well with previous analytical and experimental results. Numerical results demonstrate that the second‐order component can be neglected for a deep water‐wave and may become significant for an intermediate depth wave. Copyright © 1999 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Simulation of non‐hydrostatic,density‐stratified flow in irregular domains

A numerical model has been developed for simulating density‐stratified flow in domains with irregular but simple topography. The model was designed for simulating strong interactions between internal gravity waves and topography, e.g. exchange flows in contracting channels, tidally or convectively driven flow over two‐dimensional sills or waves propagating onto a shoaling bed. The model is based on the non‐hydrostatic, Boussinesq equations of motion for a continuously stratified fluid in a rotating frame, subject to user‐configurable boundary conditions. An orthogonal boundary fitting co‐ordinate system is used for the numerical computations, which rely on a fourth‐order compact differentiation scheme, a third‐order explicit time stepping and a multi‐grid based pressure projection algorithm. The numerical techniques are described and a suite of validation studies are presented. The validation studies include a pointwise comparison of numerical simulations with both analytical solutions and laboratory measurements of non‐linear solitary wave propagation. Simulation results for flows lacking analytical or laboratory data are analysed a posteriori to demonstrate satisfaction of the potential energy balance. Computational results are compared with two‐layer hydraulic predictions in the case of exchange flow through a contracting channel. Finally, a simulation of circulation driven by spatially non‐uniform surface buoyancy flux in an irregular basin is discussed. Copyright © 2000 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A σ‐coordinate non‐hydrostatic model with embedded Boussinesq‐type‐like equations for modeling deep‐water waves

A σ‐coordinate non‐hydrostatic model, combined with the embedded Boussinesq‐type‐like equations, a reference velocity, and an adapted top‐layer control, is developed to study the evolution of deep‐water waves. The advantage of using the Boussinesq‐type‐like equations with the reference velocity is to provide an analytical‐based non‐hydrostatic pressure distribution at the top‐layer and to optimize wave dispersion property. The σ‐based non‐hydrostatic model naturally tackles the so‐called overshooting issue in the case of non‐linear steep waves. Efficiency and accuracy of this non‐hydrostatic model in terms of wave dispersion and nonlinearity are critically examined. Overall results show that the newly developed model using a few layers is capable of resolving the evolution of non‐linear deep‐water wave groups. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

An implicit three‐dimensional fully non‐hydrostatic model for free‐surface flows

An implicit method is developed for solving the complete three‐dimensional (3D) Navier–Stokes equations. The algorithm is based upon a staggered finite difference Crank‐Nicholson scheme on a Cartesian grid. A new top‐layer pressure treatment and a partial cell bottom treatment are introduced so that the 3D model is fully non‐hydrostatic and is free of any hydrostatic assumption. A domain decomposition method is used to segregate the resulting 3D matrix system into a series of two‐dimensional vertical plane problems, for each of which a block tri‐diagonal system can be directly solved for the unknown horizontal velocity. Numerical tests including linear standing waves, nonlinear sloshing motions, and progressive wave interactions with uneven bottoms are performed. It is found that the model is capable to simulate accurately a range of free‐surface flow problems using a very small number of vertical layers (e.g. two–four layers). The developed model is second‐order accuracy in time and space and is unconditionally stable; and it can be effectively used to model 3D surface wave motions. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A new fully non‐hydrostatic 3D free surface flow model for water wave motions

A new fully non‐hydrostatic model is presented by simulating three‐dimensional free surface flow on a vertical boundary‐fitted coordinate system. A projection method, known as pressure correction technique, is employed to solve the incompressible Euler equations. A new grid arrangement is proposed under a horizontal Cartesian grid framework and vertical boundary‐fitted coordinate system. The resulting model is relatively simple. Moreover, the discretized Poisson equation for pressure correction is symmetric and positive definite, and thus it can be solved effectively by the preconditioned conjugate gradient method. Several test cases of surface wave motion are used to demonstrate the capabilities and numerical stability of the model. Comparisons between numerical results and analytical or experimental data are presented. It is shown that the proposed model could accurately and effectively resolve the motion of short waves with only two layers, where wave shoaling, nonlinearity, dispersion, refraction, and diffraction phenomena occur. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Fully non‐linear free‐surface simulations by a 3D viscous numerical wave tank

A finite difference scheme using a modified marker‐and‐cell (MAC) method is applied to investigate the characteristics of non‐linear wave motions and their interactions with a stationary three‐dimensional body inside a numerical wave tank (NWT). The Navier–Stokes (NS) equation is solved for two fluid layers, and the boundary values are updated at each time step by a finite difference time marching scheme in the frame of a rectangular co‐ordinate system. The viscous stresses and surface tension are neglected in the dynamic free‐surface condition, and the fully non‐linear kinematic free‐surface condition is satisfied by the density function method developed for two fluid layers. The incident waves are generated from the inflow boundary by prescribing a velocity profile resembling flexible flap wavemaker motions, and the outgoing waves are numerically dissipated inside an artificial damping zone located at the end of the tank. The present NS–MAC NWT simulations for a vertical truncated circular cylinder inside a rectangular wave tank are compared with the experimental results of Mercier and Niedzwecki, an independently developed potential‐based fully non‐linear NWT, and the second‐order diffraction computation. Copyright © 1999 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

An efficient curvilinear non‐hydrostatic model for simulating surface water waves

An efficient curvilinear non‐hydrostatic free surface model is developed to simulate surface water waves in horizontally curved boundaries. The generalized curvilinear governing equations are solved by a fractional step method on a rectangular transformed domain. Of importance is to employ a higher order (either quadratic or cubic spline function) integral method for the top‐layer non‐hydrostatic pressure under a staggered grid framework. Model accuracy and efficiency, in terms of required vertical layers, are critically examined on a linear progressive wave case. The model is then applied to simulate waves propagating in a canal with variable widths, cnoidal wave runup around a circular cylinder, and three‐dimensional wave transformation in a circular channel. Overall the results show that the curvilinear non‐hydrostatic model using a few, e.g. 2–4, vertical layers is capable of simulating wave dispersion, diffraction, and reflection due to curved sidewalls. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Depth‐integrated,non‐hydrostatic model with grid nesting for tsunami generation,propagation, and run‐up

Tsunamis generated by earthquakes involve physical processes of different temporal and spatial scales that extend across the ocean to the shore. This paper presents a shock‐capturing dispersive wave model in the spherical coordinate system for basin‐wide evolution and coastal run‐up of tsunamis and discusses the implementation of a two‐way grid‐nesting scheme to describe the wave dynamics at resolution compatible to the physical processes. The depth‐integrated model describes dispersive waves through the non‐hydrostatic pressure and vertical velocity, which also account for tsunami generation from dynamic seafloor deformation. The semi‐implicit, finite difference model captures flow discontinuities associated with bores or hydraulic jumps through the momentum‐conserved advection scheme with an upwind flux approximation. The two‐way grid‐nesting scheme utilizes the Dirichlet condition of the non‐hydrostatic pressure and both the horizontal velocity and surface elevation at the inter‐grid boundary to ensure propagation of dispersive waves and discontinuities across computational grids of different resolution. The inter‐grid boundary can adapt to bathymetric features to model nearshore wave transformation processes at optimal resolution and computational efficiency. A coordinate transformation enables application of the model to small geographic regions or laboratory experiments with a Cartesian grid. A depth‐dependent Gaussian function smoothes localized bottom features in relation to the water depth while retaining the bathymetry important for modeling of tsunami transformation and run‐up. Numerical experiments of solitary wave propagation and N‐wave run‐up verify the implementation of the grid‐nesting scheme. The 2009 Samoa Tsunami provides a case study to confirm the validity and effectiveness of the modeling approach for tsunami research and impact assessment. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.