基于相平均方法的折射绕射联合波浪模型

近岸带波浪运动的研究具有很重要的工程意义，近年来已获得了较丰硕的研 究成果并发展了许多波浪模型，而基于不同理论的波浪模型往往具有特定的适用性. 在海岸 工程中应用比较广泛的一类波浪模型以波能(波作用量)守恒为基本依据，如SWAN模型. 该 类模型在实际工程中已经得到了大量的应用，但该类模型未计及波浪绕射效应，成为其突出 的缺陷之一. 如何对模型做适当的改进，使之适用于波浪绕射的模拟，从而在原有基础上拓 广模型的应用范围是一项具有实际意义的研究工作. 该文采用波能(波作用量)守恒方程描 述近岸带波浪运动，通过引入绕射因子，得到折射、绕射联合波浪模型，从而拓广了模型的 应用范围. 通过实际算例验证，表明所建立的模型计及了波浪折射、绕射作用，对相平 均波浪模型在波浪绕射效应模拟方面的改进具有一定的意义.     

随机波浪作用下近岸波流场的数值模拟

结合近岸波浪抛物型缓坡模型和近岸波流场模型,对近岸不规则波浪及其破碎后所产生的流场进行了数值模拟. 在不规则波浪场的模拟中,采用JONSWAP波浪谱对入射单向不规则波浪要素按等分频率法进行离散,应用考虑波浪不规则性和破碎效应的抛物型缓坡方程对波浪场进行数值模拟,并基于抛物型缓坡方程中的波浪势函数等参数计算波浪辐射应力,以波浪辐射应力为主要动力因素基于近岸流数学模型对近岸波浪破碎所产生的近岸流场进行数值模拟,并对数值模拟结果进行了验证. 模拟结果表明该模型可有效地用于研究波浪破碎产生的近岸波流场.      

论一类四阶Boussinesq方程的变浅性能

Boussinesq 类水波模型在港口、海岸以及海洋工程领域应用广泛,但以前对这类模型的变浅性能的研究不够充分. 针对Madsen 和Sch?ffer 提出的一组四阶Boussinesq 方程,从理论和数值两个方面对这一问题进行了探讨. 理论分析了其变浅性能,指出该文献中参数α₂ 和β₂ 的取值是不合理的,并重新确定其取值. 在交错网格下建立了基于混合4 阶Adams-Bashforth-Moulton 格式的预报-校正数值模型. 数值模拟了两个典型算例: 一是缓变平坡地形上波浪的传播变形,二是波浪在淹没梯形潜堤上的波浪演化过程. 计算结果分别与解析结果、物理模型实验结果进行了比较,发现变浅系数的取值对数值结果影响很大,新参数比原文参数模拟结果的吻合程度更高,这佐证了理论分析.      

港口非线性波浪耦合计算模型研究

建立了外域用差分法求解高阶Boussinesq方程、内域用边界元法求解Laplace方程的二维船 非线性波浪力时域计算的耦合模型. 研究了该类耦合模型的匹配条件、耦合求解过程和内域、 外域公共区域长度的确定. 该耦合模型计算结果与只用边界元求解Laplace方程模型的计算 结果和实验结果对比表明，该耦合模型不仅计算精度高，而且计算效率快，适用于研究较大 区域内波浪对物体的非线性作用.     

非平整、多孔介质海底上波浪传播的复合方程

为了反映近岸区域实际存在的多孔介质海底效应，并且考虑到波浪在刚性海底上传播模型的 最新研究进展，运用Green第二恒等式建立了波浪在非平整、多孔介质海底上传播的复合方 程. 假设水深和多孔介质海底层厚度均由两种分量组成：慢变分量，其水平变化的长度尺度大于 表面波的波长；快变分量，其水平变化的长度尺度与表面波的波长等阶，但其振幅小于表面 波的振幅. 另外，多孔介质层下部边界的快变分量比水深的快变分量小1个量级. 针对水体层和多孔介质层，选择Green第二恒等式方法给出了波浪传播和渗透的复合方程， 它在交接面上满足压力和垂直渗透速度的连续性条件,可充分考虑波数变化的一般连续性， 并包含了某些著名的扩展型缓坡方程.     

直立码头前船波浪力耦合计算模型

建立了外域用Boussinesq方程、内域用刚体运动方程的直立码头前二维船剖面波浪力的时 域计算耦合模型，内域与外域在交界面的匹配条件是流量连续和压力相等. 进行了相关模型 实验，并把计算结果与实验结果进行了对比. 推导了船体与水底和直立码头之间间隙内流体 运动的自振频率，研究了间隙内流体运动的共振现象.     

基于卷积神经网络的涵洞式直立堤波浪透射预测

涵洞式直立堤是一种具有特殊用途的海岸工程结构物,对其透浪特性的研究具有重要工程意义. 然而,目前众多学者对于涵洞式直立堤波浪透射问题的研究主要以理论分析、实验模拟及数值计算为主.随着机器学习技术的发展, 传统水动力学问题迎来了新的求解理念.机器学习算法可根据训练数据集自主学习相应的规律,以数据映射的方式建立水动力学特征预测模型,在实际应用中无需对流体运动控制方程进行求解, 具有较高的计算效率. 因此,本文基于卷积神经网络(convolutional neural network, CNN),对不同开孔条件下的涵洞式直立堤透浪特征进行预测.首先利用模型试验验证计算流体力学(computational fluid dynamics, CFD)模型的有效性,然后基于CFD模型生成相应的训练数据集, 通过训练卷积神经网络模型,建立相应的波浪透射结果之间的数据映射关系,实现在新的工况下对波浪透射系数以及透射波波形等特征的快速预测. 结果表明,经过训练的卷积神经网络可在极短时间内计算得到相应的结果, 并具有较高的准确性.研究成果可为波浪与海岸结构物相互作用的问题提供新的求解理念.      

非均匀水流中非线性波传播的数值模拟

以一种考虑波流相互作用的新型{Boussinesq}型方程为控制方程组， 采用五阶{Runge}-{Kutta}-{England}格式离散时间积分，采用七点 差分格式离散空间导数，并通过采用恰当的出流边界条件，从而建立了非均匀水流中非线性 波传播的数值模拟模型. 通过对均匀水流与水深水域内和潜堤地形上存在弱流或强流时波浪 传播的数值模拟，说明模型能有效地反映水流对波浪传播的影响.     

基于MUSTA格式的全非线性Boussinesq波浪传播数值模型

建立了求解二维全非线性布氏（Boussinesq）水波方程的有限差分/有限体积混合数值格式. 针对守恒形式的控制方程,采用有限体积方法并结合 MUSTA格式计算数值通量, 剩余项则采用有限差分方法求解, 采用具有总变差减小（totalvariation diminishing, TVD）性质的三阶龙格-库塔法进行时间积分.该格式具备间断捕捉、程序实现简单、数值稳定性强、海岸动边界以及波浪破碎处理方便和可调参数少等优点.利用典型算例对数值模型进行了验证,计算结果与实验数据吻合较好.      

浅水域中多船编队航行时的船波干涉

以Green-Naghdi(GN)方程为基础,采用波动方程和运动网格的有限元法研究多船在浅水域中集体航行时的波浪干涉特性。把运动船舶对水面的扰动作为移动压强直接加在GN方程里,以描述运动船体和水面的相互作用。GN方程合理地考虑非线性和频率散射对浅水船波的影响。以Series60 CB=0.6船体为算例,给出两船并行、前后跟随、三船品字形编队航行时的波浪干涉图形,波浪阻力及侧向力的数值分析结果。计算结果表明:1)当两船并行时,两船承受侧向吸引力,同时波浪阻力稍有增加。2)当两船前后跟随时,两船的波浪阻力都减小。3)当三船品字形航行时,前船的阻力减小,后船的阻力增加,同时后面两船的吸力减小。     

An improved depth-averaged nonhydrostatic shallow water model with quadratic pressure approximation

Phase-resolved information is necessary for many coastal wave problems, for example, for the wave conditions in the vicinity of harbor structures. Two-dimensional (2D) depth-averaging shallow water models are commonly used to obtain a phase-resolved solution near the coast. These models are in general more computationally effective compared with computational fluid dynamics software and will be even more capable if equipped with a parallelized code. In the current article, a 2D wave model solving the depth-averaged continuity equation and the Euler equations is implemented in the open-source hydrodynamic code REEF3D. The model is based on a nonhydrostatic extension and a quadratic vertical pressure profile assumption, which provides a better approximation of the frequency dispersion. It is the first model of its kind to employ high-order discretization schemes and to be fully parallelized following the domain decomposition strategy. Wave generation and absorption are achieved with a relaxation method. The simulations of nonlinear long wave propagations and transformations over nonconstant bathymetries are presented. The results are compared with benchmark wave propagation cases. A large-scale wave propagation simulation over realistic irregular topography is shown to demonstrate the model's capability of solving operational large-scale problems.     

Boussinesq cut‐cell model for non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures

Boussinesq models describe the phase‐resolved hydrodynamics of unbroken waves and wave‐induced currents in shallow coastal waters. Many enhanced versions of the Boussinesq equations are available in the literature, aiming to improve the representation of linear dispersion and non‐linearity. This paper describes the numerical solution of the extended Boussinesq equations derived by Madsen and Sørensen (Coastal Eng. 1992; 15 :371–388) on Cartesian cut‐cell grids, the aim being to model non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures. An explicit second‐order MUSCL‐Hancock Godunov‐type finite volume scheme is used to solve the non‐linear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq‐type equations. Interface fluxes are evaluated using an HLLC approximate Riemann solver. A ghost‐cell immersed boundary method is used to update flow information in the smallest cut cells and overcome the time step restriction that would otherwise apply. The model is validated for solitary wave reflection from a vertical wall, diffraction of a solitary wave by a truncated barrier, and solitary wave scattering and diffraction from a vertical circular cylinder. In all cases, the model gives satisfactory predictions in comparison with the published analytical solutions and experimental measurements. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

BOUNDARY CONDITIONS IN SHALLOW WATER MODELS—AN ALTERNATIVE IMPLEMENTATION FOR FINITE ELEMENT CODES

Finite element solution of the shallow water wave equations has found increasing use by researchers and practitioners in the modelling of oceans and coastal areas. Wave equation models, most of which use equal-orderC⁰ interpolants for both the velocity and the surface elevation, do not introduce spurious oscillation modes, hence avoiding the need for artificial or numerical damping. An important question for both primitive equation and wave equation models is the interpretation of boundary conditions. Analysis of the characteristics of the governing equations shows that for most geophysical flows a single condition at each boundary is sufficient, yet there is not a consensus in the literature as to what that boundary condition must be or how it should be implemented in a finite element code. Traditionally (partly because of limited data), surface elevation is specified at open ocean boundaries while the normal flux is specified as zero at land boundaries. In most finite element wave equation models both of these boundary conditions are implemented as essential conditions. Our recent work focuses on alternative ways to numerically implement normal flow boundary conditions with an eye towards improving the mass-conserving properties of wave equation models. A unique finite element formulation using generalized functions demonstrates that boundary conditions should be implemented by treating normal fluxes as natural conditions with the flux interpreted as external to the computational domain. Results from extensive numerical experiments show that the scheme does conserve mass for all parameter values. Furthermore, convergence studies demonstrate that the algorithm is consistent, as residual errors at the boundary diminish as the grid is refined.     

Comparative Analysis of Nonlinear Dispersive Shallow Water Models

The results of comparative analysis of some nonlinear dispersive models of shallow water are presented. The aim is to find their individual properties relevant for the numerical solution of some model problems of long wave transformation over submerged obstacles The study considers basic properties of the listed models and their numerical implementation. Computations are obtained compared with the analytical solution and experimental data. Attention is primarily focused on the models suggested by Peregrine (1967); Zheleznyak and Pelinovsky (1985); Kim, Reid, Whitakcr (1988): Fedotova and Pashkova (1997). Also classical equations of shallow water are considered in both linear and nonlinear approximations.     

Outflow boundary conditions for one-dimensional finite element modeling of blood flow and pressure waves in arteries

Flow and pressure waves, originating due to the contraction of the heart, propagate along the deformable vessels and reflect due to tapering, branching, and other discontinuities. The size and complexity of the cardiovascular system necessitate a “multiscale” approach, with “upstream” regions of interest (large arteries) coupled to reduced-order models of “downstream” vessels. Previous efforts to couple upstream and downstream domains have included specifying resistance and impedance outflow boundary conditions for the nonlinear one-dimensional wave propagation equations and iterative coupling between three-dimensional and one-dimensional numerical methods. We have developed a new approach to solve the one-dimensional nonlinear equations of blood flow in elastic vessels utilizing a space-time finite element method with GLS-stabilization for the upstream domain, and a boundary term to couple to the downstream domain. The outflow boundary conditions are derived following an approach analogous to the Dirichlet-to-Neumann (DtN) method. In the downstream domain, we solve simplified zero/one-dimensional equations to derive relationships between pressure and flow accommodating periodic and transient phenomena with a consistent formulation for different boundary condition types. In this paper, we also present a new boundary condition that accommodates transient phenomena based on a Green’s function solution of the linear, damped wave equation in the downstream domain.     

A 1D Roe decomposition of a system of equations governing wave height transformation

A Roe‐type decomposition for a system of equations governing onshore/offshore wave transformation in coastal waters is derived. The equation set approximated pertains to coastal waters prior to wave breaking, and is based on depth‐averaging and time‐averaging of the Euler equations. The equations are those used in many commercial codes for simulation of wave height and wave‐averaged currents. This novel approach uses a combination of some standard Roe averages, together with physical reasoning and power series expansions to derive a Roe‐averaged Jacobian (with real, linearly independent eigenvectors) and ensures conservation, and thereby effects the decomposition. It is shown that the resulting derived Roe‐averaged quantities are accurate to a high degree, by comparing them with their analytical equivalents for a wide range of nondimensional water depths and slopes likely to be encountered in coastal problems. Numerical tests of time‐invariant wave height transformation and wave group propagation are undertaken; these indicate good performance of the scheme in practice. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Two‐dimensional dispersion analyses of finite element approximations to the shallow water equations

Dispersion analysis of discrete solutions to the shallow water equations has been extensively used as a tool to define the relationships between frequency and wave number and to determine if an algorithm leads to a dual wave number response and near 2Δx oscillations. In this paper, we explore the application of two‐dimensional dispersion analysis to cluster based and Galerkin finite element‐based discretizations of the primitive shallow water equations and the generalized wave continuity equation (GWCE) reformulation of the harmonic shallow water equations on a number of grid configurations. It is demonstrated that for various algorithms and grid configurations, contradictions exist between the results of one‐dimensional and two‐dimensional dispersion analysis as a result of subtle changes in the mass matrix. Numerical experiments indicate that the two‐dimensional dispersion analysis correctly predicts the existence and onset of near 2Δx noise in the solution. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

近岸非平整海底上耗散动力系统的广义波作用量守恒方程

为刻划近岸波-流-海底相互作用耗散动力系统的多种复杂作用机制，着眼于波浪对近岸大尺度变化环境流作用和考虑多变海底地形(可典型地刻划为由慢变水深和快变水深构成)的影响，由基于黏性流体Navie-Stokes方程的平均流方程，建立了近岸耗散动力系统的广义波作用量守恒方程，从中提出垂向速度波作用量和耗散波作用量这两种新概念，使得它们和经典的波作用量相互间达成了一种互补、协调而又主次分明的更为广泛的守恒形式．从而把波作用量这一经典概念从理想的平均流守恒系统引申到实际的平均流耗散系统(即广义守恒系统)中去，为解释沿岸过程和应用于近海、海岸工程提供了一个理论基础．     

A finite volume solver for 1D shallow‐water equations applied to an actual river

This paper describes the numerical solution of the 1D shallow‐water equations by a finite volume scheme based on the Roe solver. In the first part, the 1D shallow‐water equations are presented. These equations model the free‐surface flows in a river. This set of equations is widely used for applications: dam‐break waves, reservoir emptying, flooding, etc. The main feature of these equations is the presence of a non‐conservative term in the momentum equation in the case of an actual river. In order to apply schemes well adapted to conservative equations, this term is split in two terms: a conservative one which is kept on the left‐hand side of the equation of momentum and the non‐conservative part is introduced as a source term on the right‐hand side. In the second section, we describe the scheme based on a Roe Solver for the homogeneous problem. Next, the numerical treatment of the source term which is the essential point of the numerical modelisation is described. The source term is split in two components: one is upwinded and the other is treated according to a centred discretization. By using this method for the discretization of the source term, one gets the right behaviour for steady flow. Finally, in the last part, the problem of validation is tackled. Most of the numerical tests have been defined for a working group about dam‐break wave simulation. A real dam‐break wave simulation will be shown. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.