A Higher-Order Internal Wave Model Accounting for Large Bathymetric Variations

A higher-order strongly nonlinear model is derived to describe the evolution of large amplitude internal waves over arbitrary bathymetric variations in a two-layer system where the upper layer is shallow while the lower layer is comparable to the characteristic wavelength. The new system of nonlinear evolution equations with variable coefficients is a generalization of the deep configuration model proposed by Choi and Camassa [ 1 ] and accounts for both a higher-order approximation to pressure coupling between the two layers and the effects of rapidly varying bottom variation. Motivated by the work of Rosales and Papanicolaou [ 2 ], an averaging technique is applied to the system for weakly nonlinear long internal waves propagating over periodic bottom topography. It is shown that the system reduces to an effective Intermediate Long Wave (ILW) equation, in contrast to the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation derived for the surface wave case.     

Three-dimensional gravity waves in a channel of variable depth

We consider existence of three-dimensional gravity waves traveling along a channel of variable depth. It is well known that the long-wave small-amplitude expansion for such waves results in the stationary Korteweg–de Vries equation, coefficients of which depend on the transverse topography of the channel. This equation has a single-humped solitary wave localized in the direction of the wave propagation. We show, however, that there exists an infinite set of resonant Fourier modes that travel at the same speed as the solitary wave does. This fact suggests that the solitary wave confined in a channel of variable depth is always surrounded by small-amplitude oscillatory disturbances in the far-field profile.     

Resonant hydraulic sloshing in a tank of variable depth

The forced resonant oscillations of a fluid in a tank of variable depth are considered within the hydraulic approximation. It is shown that for certain bottom topographies a continuous periodic output dominated by the first normal mode is possible. This contrasts with the case of a tank of constant depth, where hydraulic jumps are a feature of the motion. The amplitude and frequency of the output are connected by a cubic equation. The fluid response can act like that of a hard or soft spring, depending on the bottom topography. There is also a critical bottom topography that yields a higher order response amplitude.     

广义缓坡方程

运用表面波Hamilton方法和缓坡逼近假定,分析缓变三维流场和非平整海底对波浪传播的影响,推导出广义缓坡方程。海底地形由两个分量组成:慢变分量,其水平长度尺度大于表面波的波长;快变分量,其振幅与表面波的波长相比为一小量,但是其频率与表面波频率相当。该广义缓坡方程具有广泛的适用范围,以下著名的缓坡方程成为它的特例:经典的Berkhoff缓坡方程;包含环境流效应的Kirby缓坡方程;描述波状海底特征的Dingemans缓坡方程。另外,同时也得到了描述环境流场和快变海底效应的广义浅水方程。     

Resonant hydraulic sloshing in a tank of variable depth

The forced resonant oscillations of a fluid in a tank of variable depth are considered within the hydraulic approximation. It is shown that for certain bottom topographies a continuous periodic output dominated by the first normal mode is possible. This contrasts with the case of a tank of constant depth, where hydraulic jumps are a feature of the motion. The amplitude and frequency of the output are connected by a cubic equation. The fluid response can act like that of a hard or soft spring, depending on the bottom topography. There is also a critical bottom topography that yields a higher order response amplitude.     

Rotational waves generated by current‐topography interaction

We study nonlinear free‐surface rotational waves generated through the interaction of a vertically sheared current with a topography. Equivalently, the waves may be generated by a pressure distribution along the free surface. A forced Korteweg–de Vries equation (fKdV) is deduced incorporating these features. The weakly nonlinear, weakly dispersive reduced model is valid for small amplitude topographies. To study the effect of gradually increasing the topography amplitude, the free surface Euler equations are formulated in the presence of a variable depth and a sheared current of constant vorticity. Under constant vorticity, the harmonic velocity component is formulated in a simplified canonical domain, through the use of a conformal mapping which flattens both the free surface as well as the bottom topography. Critical, supercritical, and subcritical Froude number regimes are considered, while the bottom amplitude is gradually increased in both the irrotational and rotational wave regimes. Solutions to the fKdV model are compared to those from the Euler equations. We show that for rotational waves the critical Froude number is shifted away from 1. New stationary solutions are found and their stability tested numerically.     

The effects of interplay between the rotation and shoaling for a solitary wave on variable topography

This paper presents specific features of solitary wave dynamics within the framework of the Ostrovsky equation with variable coefficients in relation to surface and internal waves in a rotating ocean with a variable bottom topography. For solitary waves moving toward the beach, the terminal decay caused by the rotation effect can be suppressed by the shoaling effect. Two basic examples of a bottom profile are analyzed in detail and supported by direct numerical modeling. One of them is a constant‐slope bottom and the other is a specific bottom profile providing a constant amplitude solitary wave. Estimates with real oceanic parameters show that the predicted effects of stable soliton dynamics in a coastal zone can occur, in particular, for internal waves.     

Evolution equation of propagation of surface gravity waves in the presence of bottom excitation

An evolution equation that describes the propagation of surface nonlinear dispersive waves in a fluid of finite depth under excitation of a bottom surface is derived. The method of solution is based on the method of power series and asymptotic analysis. On this basis, in a particular case, we investigate the influence of the bottom compliance in the form of a Winkler elastic base and a more general Pasternak base on the transport of wave energy.     

Homogenization Method in the Problem of Long Wave Propagation from a Localized Source in a Basin over an Uneven Bottom

In the framework of the linearized shallow water equations, the homogenization method for wave type equations with rapidly oscillating coefficients that generally cannot be represented as periodic functions of the fast variables is applied to the Cauchy problem for the wave equation describing the evolution of the free surface elevation for long waves propagating in a basin over an uneven bottom. Under certain conditions on the function describing the basin depth, we prove that the solution of the homogenized equation asymptotically approximates the solution of the original equation. Model homogenized wave equations are constructed for several examples of one-dimensional sections of the real ocean bottom profile, and their numerical and asymptotic solutions are compared with numerical solutions of the original equations.     

Numerical response of an arbitrarily shaped harbour

The numerical development of resonance of a harbour of arbitrary shape and depth is studied. The harbour is subdivided into subregions according to the variations of bottom topography such that each subregion is of uniform depth. The Helmholtz wave equation is formulated in each subregion as an integral equation of the Green's theorem. The solution to the entire harbour basin is obtained by a matching procedure at the subregion boundaries. Here, we consider a harbour with basins of constant depths connected in series successively to accommodate a more complicated harbour geometry. An application of this study is made to Kincardine harbour with five basins connected in series successively.     

两层流体中具有β变化和地形影响的Rossby波

本文研究了两层流体中具有变化的Rossby参数和地形Rossby波的问题.利用行波法和摄动的方法,获得了Rossby波振幅满足齐次KdV方程和齐次mKdV方程,推广了Rossby参数和地形对Rossby孤立波的影响.     

Oblique wave scattering by a semi-infinite rigid dock in the presence of bottom undulations

The problem of oblique wave scattering by a semi-infinite rigid dock in the presence of varying bottom topography is investigated here using linear water wave theory. Employing a simplified perturbation analysis together with appropriate use of Green’s integral theorem, the reflection coefficient up to first order is obtained in terms of an integral involving the shape function representing the bottom topography. The zero-order reflection coefficient is obtained by using the residue calculus method of complex variable. The bottom undulations are described by sinusoidal and an exponentially decaying profile. The first order correction to the reflection coefficient is depicted graphically in a number of figures for the two shape functions characterizing the bottom undulations and appropriate conclusions are drawn.     

Nonlinear Wave Equations for Oceanic Internal Solitary Waves

In the coastal ocean, the interaction of barotropic tidal currents with topographic features such as the continental shelf, sills in narrow straits, and bottom ridges are often observed to generate large amplitude, horizontally propagating internal solitary waves. These are long nonlinear waves and hence can be modeled by equations of the Korteweg–de Vries type. Typically they occur in regions of variable bottom topography, with the consequence that the appropriate nonlinear evolution equation has variable coefficients. Further, as these waves can be long‐lived it is necessary to take account of the effects of the Earth's background rotation. We review this family of model evolution equations and some of their pertinent solutions, obtained both asymptotically and numerically.     

A Formulation for Water Waves over Topography

Many interesting free-surface flow problems involve a varying bottom. Examples of such flows include ocean waves propagating over topography, the breaking of waves on a beach, and the free surface of a uniform flow over a localized bump. We present here a formulation for such flows that is general and, from the outset, demonstrates the wave character of the free-surface evolution. The evolution of the free surface is governed by a system of equations consisting of a nonlinear wave-like partial differential equation coupled to a time-independent linear integral equation. We assume that the free-surface deformation is weakly nonlinear, but make no a priori assumption about the scale or amplitude of the topography. We also extend the formulation to include the effect of mean flows and surface tension. We show how this formulation gives some of the well-known limits for such problems once assumptions about the amplitude and scale of the topography are made.     

Interfacial long traveling waves in a two‐layer fluid with variable depth

Long wave propagation in a two‐layer fluid with variable depth is studied for specific bottom configurations, which allow waves to propagate over large distances. Such configurations are found within the linear shallow‐water theory and determined by a family of solutions of the second‐order ordinary differential equation (ODE) with three arbitrary constants. These solutions can be used to approximate the true bottom bathymetry. All such solutions represent smooth bottom profiles between two different singular points. The first singular point corresponds to the point where the two‐layer flow transforms into a uniform one. In the vicinity of this point nonlinear shallow‐water theory is used and the wave breaking criterion, which corresponds to the gradient catastrophe is found. The second bifurcation point corresponds to an infinite increase in water depth, which contradicts the shallow‐water assumption. This point is eliminated by matching the “nonreflecting” bottom profile with a flat bottom. The wave transformation at the matching point is described by the second‐order Fredholm equation and its approximated solution is then obtained. The results extend the theory of internal waves in inhomogeneous stratified fluids actively developed by Prof. Roger Grimshaw, to the new solutions types.     

The Evolution of Internal Undular Bores over a Slope in the Presence of Rotation

The large‐amplitude internal waves commonly observed in the coastal ocean often take the form of unsteady undular bores. Hence, here, we examine the long‐time combined effect of variable topography and background rotation on the propagation of internal undular bores, using the framework of a variable‐coefficient Ostrovsky equation. Because the leading waves in an internal undular bore are close to solitary waves, we first examine the evolution of a single solitary wave. Then, we consider an internal undular bore, for which two methods of generation are used. One method is the matured undular bore developed from an initial shock box in the Korteweg–de Vries equation, that is the Ostrovsky equation with the rotational term omitted, and the other method is a modulated cnoidal wave solution of the same Korteweg–de Vries equation. It transpires that in the long‐time model simulations, the rotational effect disintegrates the nonlinear waves into inertia‐gravity waves, and then there emerge complicated interactions between these inertia‐gravity waves and the modulated periodic waves of the undular bore, especially at the rear part of the undular bore. However, near the front of the undular bore, nonlinear effects further modulate these waves, with the eventual emergence of nonlinear envelope wave packets.     

New periodic wave solutions for nonlinear evolution equations with variable coefficients via mapping method

An extended mapping method with a computerized symbolic computation is used for constructing a new exact travelling wave solutions for nonlinear evolution equations arising in physics, namely, generalized Zakharov Kuznetsov equation with variable coefficients. As a result, many exact travelling wave solutions are obtained which include new periodic wave solution, trigonometric function solutions and rational solutions. The method is straightforward and concise, and it can also be applied to other nonlinear evolution equations with variable coefficients arising in mathematical physics. © 2009 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. Numer Methods Partial Differential Eq, 2010     

分离变量法在变系数(2+1)维方程求解中的应用

分离变量法是求解具有局域相干结构解的有效解析方法.考虑到传播介质的非均匀性和边界的不一致性,变系数(2+1)色散长波方程可以实际地描述宽广的河道或有限深的远海中非线性波的传播.解析研究了变系数(2+1)维色散长波方程.通过分离变量法,得到了该方程组的具有丰富结构的分离变量解.     

Explicit exact solutions for the (2 + 1)-dimensional Konopelchenko–Dubrovsky equation

In this paper, we construct new explicit exact solutions for the coupled the (2 + 1)-dimensional Konopelchenko–Dubrovsky equation (KD equation) by using a improved mapping approach and variable separation method. By means of the method, new types of variable-separation solutions (including solitary wave solutions, periodic wave solutions and rational function solutions) for the KD system are successfully obtained. The improved mapping approach and variable separation method can be applied to other higher-dimensional coupled nonlinear evolution equations.     

On an initial‐boundary value problem for a wide‐angle parabolic equation in a waveguide with a variable bottom

We consider the third‐order Claerbout‐type wide‐angle parabolic equation (PE) of underwater acoustics in a cylindrically symmetric medium consisting of water over a soft bottom B of range‐dependent topography. There is strong indication that the initial‐boundary value problem for this equation with just a homogeneous Dirichlet boundary condition posed on B may not be well‐posed, for example when B is downsloping. We impose, in addition to the above, another homogeneous, second‐order boundary condition, derived by assuming that the standard (narrow‐angle) PE holds on B, and establish a priori H² estimates for the solution of the resulting initial‐boundary value problem for any bottom topography. After a change of the depth variable that makes B horizontal, we discretize the transformed problem by a second‐order accurate finite difference scheme and show, in the case of upsloping and downsloping wedge‐type domains, that the new model gives stable and accurate results. We also present an alternative set of boundary conditions that make the problem exactly energy conserving; one of these conditions may be viewed as a generalization of the Abrahamsson–Kreiss boundary condition in the wide‐angle case. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.