Simulating regular wave propagation over a submerged bar by boundary element method model and Boussinesq equation model

Numerical models based on the boundary element method and Boussinesq equation are used to simulate the wave transform over a submerged bar for regular waves.In the boundary-element-method model the linear element is used,and the integrals are computed by analytical formulas.The Boussinesq-equation model is the well-known FUNWAVE from the University of Delaware.We compare the numerical free surface displacements with the laboratory data on both gentle slope and steep slope,and find that both the models simulate the wave transform well.We further compute the agreement indexes between the numerical result and laboratory data,and the results support that the boundary-element-method model has a stable good performance,which is due to the fact that its governing equation has no restriction on nonlinearity and dispersion as compared with Boussinesq equation.     

二维水槽中岩石坠落激发表面波的生成机制

针对二维水槽中岩石坠落激发表面波的生成机制进行数值和实验室研究,其中数值模型使用边界元方法求解完全非线性势流函数,实验室研究测得不同时刻的波面位移并用于检验数值模型.研究表明,数值结果和实验结果比对良好,这种基于势流函数理论的数值模型能够有效模拟水中岩石坠落激发表面波的生成过程.进一步数值研究了生成波最大位移随岩石大小、密度、初始位置和下落角度的变化,结果发现：岩石大小和密度对生成波最大位移的影响非常重要,而岩石初始位置和下落角度对生成波最大位移的影响较为显著.当岩石大小变大,密度变大,岩石初始位置更靠近 关键词： 水中岩石坠落 波浪生成 边界元方法 波浪破碎     

Effect of oceanic current on typhoon-wave modeling in the East China Sea

We use the WAVEWATCH-III model to quantify the effect of oceanic current on typhoon-wave modeling in the East-China-Sea(ECS).Typhoons Jelawat and Saomai in the autumn of 2000 are hindcasted.The oceanic currents in the ECS are mainly constituted of Kuroshio and typhoon-generated currents.The results show distinguishable differences in wave height and wave period under the typhoon conditions.The oceanic current causes the maximum differences,of up to a 0.5 m significant wave height and a 1 s mean wave period.Comparisons between typhoons Jelawat and Saomai show the dependence of the current effect on the typhoon characteristics.