具有精确色散性的非线性波浪数学模型

以完全非线性的自由表面边界条件为基础,以波面升高\eta和自由表面速度势\phi _\eta为待求变量,建立了新的波浪方程．方程在色散性上是完全精确的,非线性近似至三阶．与缓坡方程相比较,两者都具有精确的色散性,但该方程属于非线性模型,可模拟波浪的非线性效应,且适用于不规则波．方程的特点是属于微分-积分方程,对如何处理方程中积分项进行了讨论,并数值模拟了不同周期的线性波和二阶Stokes波,也模拟了波群的非线性演化,以对模型进行验证．      

破碎带波浪的数值模拟

基于一组色散关系得到改进的完全非线性Boussinesq方程建立了一个波浪模型可以模拟近岸水域的波浪变浅、破碎以及在海滩上的爬高等多种变形。波浪破碎引起的能量衰减是在动量方程中引入一个在空间和时间上都只作用于波前的涡粘项来模拟。动海岸线边界用窄缝法处理。波浪爬高用非线性浅水方程推导的非破碎波浪在斜坡上爬高的解析解来验证。本模型还模拟了波浪在斜坡上不同类型的破碎变形过程,并将其波高和平均水位的沿程变化和物理模型实验的结果比较,两者符合良好。     

基于Boussinesq方程的波浪模型

从欧拉方程出发，提供了另一种推导完全非线性Boussinesq方程的方法，并对方程的 线性色散关系和线性变浅率进行了改进. 改进后方程的线性色散关系达到了一阶Stokes波 色散关系的Pad\'{e}[4,4]近似，在相对水深达1.0的强色散波浪时仍保持较高的准确性，并且方程的非线性和线性 变浅率都得到了不同程度的改善. 方程的水平一维形式用预估-校正的有限差分格式求解， 建立了一个适合较强非线性波浪的Boussinesq波浪数值模型. 作为验证，模拟了波浪在潜 堤上的传播变形，计算结果和实验数据的比较发现两者符合良好.     

基于相平均方法的折射绕射联合波浪模型

近岸带波浪运动的研究具有很重要的工程意义，近年来已获得了较丰硕的研 究成果并发展了许多波浪模型，而基于不同理论的波浪模型往往具有特定的适用性. 在海岸 工程中应用比较广泛的一类波浪模型以波能(波作用量)守恒为基本依据，如SWAN模型. 该 类模型在实际工程中已经得到了大量的应用，但该类模型未计及波浪绕射效应，成为其突出 的缺陷之一. 如何对模型做适当的改进，使之适用于波浪绕射的模拟，从而在原有基础上拓 广模型的应用范围是一项具有实际意义的研究工作. 该文采用波能(波作用量)守恒方程描 述近岸带波浪运动，通过引入绕射因子，得到折射、绕射联合波浪模型，从而拓广了模型的 应用范围. 通过实际算例验证，表明所建立的模型计及了波浪折射、绕射作用，对相平 均波浪模型在波浪绕射效应模拟方面的改进具有一定的意义.     

基于VPM-THINC/QQ模型的波浪高保真模拟

为实现波浪传播的高保真数值模拟,采用包含单元均值和点值(volume-average/point-value method,VPM)的有限体积法求解纳维-斯托克斯方程和具有二次曲面性质和高斯积分的双曲正切函数(THINC method with quadratic surface representation and Gaussian quadrature,THINC/QQ)方法来重构自由面,建立以开源求解库OpenFOAM底层函数库为基础的VPM-THINC/QQ模型. 在本模型中添加推板造波法实现波浪的产生功能,采用松弛法实现消波功能,构建高精度黏性流数值波浪水槽. 分别采用VPM-THINC/QQ模型和InterFoam求解器(OpenFOAM软件包中广泛使用的多相流求解器)开展规则波的数值模拟,重点探究网格大小和时间步长等因素对波浪传播过程的影响,定量地分析波高衰减程度;为验证本模型的适应性,对长短波进行模拟. 结果表明,在相同网格大小或时间步长条件下,VPM-THINC/QQ模型的预测结果与参考值吻合较好,波高衰减较少,且无相位差,在波浪传播过程的模拟中呈现出良好的保真性. 本文工作 为波浪传播的模拟研究提供了一种高精度的黏性数值波浪水槽模型.      

非均匀水流中非线性波传播的数值模拟

以一种考虑波流相互作用的新型{Boussinesq}型方程为控制方程组， 采用五阶{Runge}-{Kutta}-{England}格式离散时间积分，采用七点 差分格式离散空间导数，并通过采用恰当的出流边界条件，从而建立了非均匀水流中非线性 波传播的数值模拟模型. 通过对均匀水流与水深水域内和潜堤地形上存在弱流或强流时波浪 传播的数值模拟，说明模型能有效地反映水流对波浪传播的影响.     

波浪破碎的一种混合湍流模拟模式

近岸波浪的变形与破碎,一方面影响水体与泥沙运输,另一方面对消波护岸具有指导意义.本文提出一种三维混合湍流模拟模式方法,将求解区域分为造波区、波浪传播区和消波区.造波区采用层流模式,通过基于Fluent的二次开发的UDF方法在边界进行速度造波.这种方法在给定入口速度的条件下,根据已知波高进行精准插值,从而控制水的体积分数.在波浪传播区域,采用大涡模拟进行模拟研究,在消波区,采用RANS模型并利用多孔介质消波法进行消波.模型通过VOF方法捕捉波浪破碎过程中的自由面变化.本文对波高为5.5 cm的规则波(M1)、波高为13.5cm的规则波(M3)、有效波高为7.75cm的TMA谱单向不规则波(U1)和有效波高为19cm的TMA谱多向不规则波(B5)展开了模拟研究,并与前人的相关实验结果作比较,各条件下模拟结果与实验结果吻合.模拟结果说明本文提出的模型能够准确模拟出波浪传播过程中的折射和绕射现象,并且能够捕捉的波浪破碎过程中的自由面变化,为三维波浪的传播与破碎的数值模拟提供一种模拟方法.     

随机波浪作用下近岸波流场的数值模拟

结合近岸波浪抛物型缓坡模型和近岸波流场模型,对近岸不规则波浪及其破碎后所产生的流场进行了数值模拟. 在不规则波浪场的模拟中,采用JONSWAP波浪谱对入射单向不规则波浪要素按等分频率法进行离散,应用考虑波浪不规则性和破碎效应的抛物型缓坡方程对波浪场进行数值模拟,并基于抛物型缓坡方程中的波浪势函数等参数计算波浪辐射应力,以波浪辐射应力为主要动力因素基于近岸流数学模型对近岸波浪破碎所产生的近岸流场进行数值模拟,并对数值模拟结果进行了验证. 模拟结果表明该模型可有效地用于研究波浪破碎产生的近岸波流场.      

激光激励微型硅悬臂梁的振动特性研究

本文用光学探测方法研究了半导体硅悬臂梁的振动问题;运用基于外差干涉原理的实验装置得到了悬臂梁在激光激励下的振动响应（振动振幅和相位随调制激光频率的变化）;采用等离子波和热弹性波的数学模型,对悬臂梁的振动进行了理论分析;可看到实验与理论模拟结果吻合很好,同时通过分析可得振动相位与调制激光频率的平方根之间有线性关系。关键词词: 光学探测, 硅悬臂梁,振动.      

波浪破碎的一种混合湍流模拟模式

近岸波浪的变形与破碎,一方面影响水体标识码运输,另一方面对消波护岸具有指导意义.本文提出一种三维混合湍流模拟模式方法,将求解区域分为造波区、波浪传播区和消波区. 造波区采用层流模式,通过基于 Fluent 的二次开发的 UDF 方法在边界进行速度造波.这种方法在给定入口速度的条件标识码据已知波高进行 精准插值,从而控制水的体积分数. 在波浪传播区域,采用大涡标识码行模拟研究,在消波区,采用 RANS 模型并利用多孔介质消波法进行消波. 模标识码 VOF 方法捕捉波浪破碎过程中的自由面变化.本文对波高为 5.5cm 的规则波 (M1)、波高为 13.5cm 的 规则波 (M3)、有效标识码 7.75cm 的 TMA 谱单向不规则波 (U1) 和有效波高为 19cm 的 TMA 谱多向不规则波 (B5) 展开标识码研究,并与前人的相关标识码果作比较,各条件下模拟结果与实验结果吻合.模拟结果说明本文提出的模型能够准确模拟出波浪传播过程中的折射和标识码象,并且能够捕捉的波浪破碎过程中的自由面变化,为三维波浪的传播与破碎的数值模拟提供一种模拟方法.      

Freak waves under the action of wind: experiments and simulations

The freak wave formation due to the dispersive focusing mechanism is investigated experimentally without wind and in presence of wind. An asymmetric behaviour between the focusing and defocusing stages is found when the wind is blowing over the mechanically generated gravity wave group. This feature corresponds physically to the sustain of the freak wave mechanism on longer periods of time. Furthermore, a weak amplification of the freak wave and a shift in the downstream direction of the point where the waves merge are observed. The experimental results suggest that the Jeffreys' sheltering mechanism could play a key role in the coherence of the group of the freak wave. Hence, the Jeffreys' sheltering theory is introduced in a fully nonlinear model. The results of the numerical simulations confirm that the duration of the freak wave event increases with the wind velocity.     

Formation de vagues géantes en eau peu profonde

A method, based on the spatio-temporal focusing phenomenon, is proposed to find the wave trains whose evolution leads to freak wave formation. The model is based on the classical Korteweg–de Vries equation. It is shown on the one hand that the Ursell number which measures nonlinearity with regards to dispersion is weak, that is to say freak waves are quasi-linear, and on the other hand that the phenomenon is a rare event with a short-lived character.     

Physical mechanisms of the rogue wave phenomenon

A review of physical mechanisms of the rogue wave phenomenon is given. The data of marine observations as well as laboratory experiments are briefly discussed. They demonstrate that freak waves may appear in deep and shallow waters. Simple statistical analysis of the rogue wave probability based on the assumption of a Gaussian wave field is reproduced. In the context of water wave theories the probabilistic approach shows that numerical simulations of freak waves should be made for very long times on large spatial domains and large number of realizations. As linear models of freak waves the following mechanisms are considered: dispersion enhancement of transient wave groups, geometrical focusing in basins of variable depth, and wave-current interaction. Taking into account nonlinearity of the water waves, these mechanisms remain valid but should be modified. Also, the influence of the nonlinear modulational instability (Benjamin–Feir instability) on the rogue wave occurence is discussed. Specific numerical simulations were performed in the framework of classical nonlinear evolution equations: the nonlinear Schrödinger equation, the Davey–Stewartson system, the Korteweg–de Vries equation, the Kadomtsev–Petviashvili equation, the Zakharov equation, and the fully nonlinear potential equations. Their results show the main features of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon.     

Interaction between envelope solitons as a model for freak wave formations. Part I: Long time interactionInteraction de solitons enveloppes comme modèle pour la formation de « freak waves». Partie I : Interaction à long terme

We are concerned by a special mechanism that can explain the formation of freak waves. We study numerically the long time evolution of a surface gravity wave packet, comparing a fully nonlinear model with Schrödinger-like simplified equations. We observe that the interaction between envelope solitons generates large waves. This is predicted by both models. The fully nonlinear simulations show a qualitative behaviour that differs significantly from the ones preticted by Schrödinger models, however. Indeed, the occurence of freak waves is much more frequent with the fully nonlinear model. This is a consequence of the long-time interaction between envelope solitons, which, in the fully nonlinear model, is totally different from the Schrödinger scenario. The fundamental differences appear for times when the simplified equations cease to be valid. Possible statistical models, based on the latter, should hence under-estimate the probability of freak wave formation. To cite this article: D. Clamond, J. Grue, C. R. Mecanique 330 (2002) 575–580.     

Numerical simulation of interaction between wind and 2D freak waves

This paper presents a newly developed approach for the numerical modelling of wind effects on the generation and dynamics of freak waves. In this approach, the quasi arbitrary Lagrangian–Eulerian finite element method (QALE-FEM) developed by the authors of this paper is combined with a commercial software (StarCD). The former is based on the fully nonlinear potential model, in which the wind-excited pressure is modelled using a modified Jeffreys' model [9]. The latter has a volume of fluid (VOF) solver which can handle violent air–wave interaction problems. The combination can simulate the interaction between freak waves and winds with an improved computational efficiency. The numerical approach is validated by comparing its predictions with experimental data. Satisfactory agreements are achieved. Detailed numerical investigations of the interaction between winds and 2D freak waves are carried out, which not only explore different air flow states but also reveal the wind effects on the change of freak wave profiles. Both breaking and non-breaking freak waves are considered.     

Improved model for air pressure due to wind on 2D freak waves in finite depth

This paper presents an improved model for evaluating air pressure acting on 2D freak waves in a finite depth due to the presence of winds. This pressure model is developed by analysing the pressure distribution over freak waves using the QALE-FEM/StarCD approach, which combines the quasi arbitrary Lagrangian-Eulerian finite element method (QALE-FEM) with the commercial software package StarCD and has been proven to be sufficiently accurate for such cases according to our previous publication Yan and Ma (2010) [8]. In this model for air pressure, the pressure is decomposed into the components related to the local wave profiles and others. By coupling with the QALE-FEM, the accuracy of the pressure model is tested using various cases. The results show that the pressure distribution estimated using this model is close to that computed by using the QALE-FEM/StarCD approach when there is no significant vortex shedding and wave breaking. The accuracy investigation in predicting the freak wave heights and elevations demonstrates that this pressure model is much better than others in the literature so far used for modelling wind effects on freak waves in finite depth.     

Freak waves as nonlinear stage of Stokes wave modulation instability

Numerical simulation of evolution of nonlinear gravity waves is presented. Simulation is done using two-dimensional code, based on conformal mapping of the fluid to the lower half-plane. We have considered two problems: (i) modulation instability of wave train and (ii) evolution of NLSE solitons with different steepness of carrier wave. In both cases we have observed formation of freak waves.     

Long time interaction of envelope solitons and freak wave formations

This paper concerns long time interaction of envelope solitary gravity waves propagating at the surface of a two-dimensional deep fluid in potential flow. Fully nonlinear numerical simulations show how an initially long wave group slowly splits into a number of solitary wave groups. In the example presented, three large wave events are formed during the evolution. They occur during a time scale that is beyond the time range of validity of simplified equations like the nonlinear Schrödinger (NLS) equation or modifications of this equation. A Fourier analysis shows that these large wave events are caused by significant transfer to side-band modes of the carrier waves. Temporary downshiftings of the dominant wavenumber of the spectrum coincide with the formation large wave events. The wave slope at maximal amplifications is about three times higher than the initial wave slope. The results show how interacting solitary wave groups that emerge from a long wave packet can produce freak wave events.Our reference numerical simulation are performed with the fully nonlinear model of Clamond and Grue [D. Clamond, J. Grue, A fast method for fully nonlinear water wave computations, J. Fluid Mech. 447 (2001) 337–355]. The results of this model are compared with that of two weakly nonlinear models, the NLS equation and its higher-order extension derived by Trulsen et al. [K. Trulsen, I. Kliakhandler, K.B. Dysthe, M.G. Velarde, On weakly nonlinear modulation of waves on deep water, Phys. Fluids 12 (10) (2000) 2432–2437]. They are also compared with the results obtained with a high-order spectral method (HOSM) based on the formulation of West et al. [B.J. West, K.A. Brueckner, R.S. Janda, A method of studying nonlinear random field of surface gravity waves by direct numerical simulation, J. Geophys. Res. 92 (C11) (1987) 11 803–11 824]. An important issue concerning the representation and the treatment of the vertical velocity in the HOSM formulation is highlighted here for the study of long-time evolutions.     

Three reasons for freak wave generation in the non-uniform current

Three reasons for freak wave generation due to interaction of wave with spatially non-uniform current are considered in the paper. They are as follows: wave energy amplification due to wave-current interaction; wave height amplification around caustic due to refraction wave in non-uniform current; non-linear wave interaction in shallow water due to their intersection described by the Kadomtsev–Petviashvili equation. These mechanisms can generate a large wave amplification producing a dangerous natural phenomenon.