A fully coupled method for simulation of wave-current-seabed systems

Coastal flow involves surface wave propagation, current circulation, and seabed evolution, and its prediction remains challenging when they strongly interact with each other, especially during extreme events such as tsunami and storm surge. We propose a fully coupled method to simulate motion of wave-current-seabed systems and associated multiphysics phenomena. The wave action equation, the shallow water equations, and the Exner equation are respectively used for wave, current, and seabed morphology, and the discretization is based on a second-order, flux-limiter, finite difference scheme previously developed for current-seabed systems. The proposed method is tested with analytical solutions, laboratory measurements, and numerical solutions obtained with other schemes. Its advantages are demonstrated in capturing interplay among wave, current, and seabed; it has the capability of first-order upwind schemes to suppress artificial oscillations as well as the accuracy of second-order schemes in resolving flow structures.     

跨海特大型桥梁风-浪耦合作用的随机振动分析

考虑风-浪耦合场中风和波浪特征参数的相关性,建立了基于有限元法与边界元法联合分析的特大型桥梁风-浪耦合作用运动方程.其中,作用在大型深水基础上的波浪力采用势流理论和边界元法进行计算,并建立有限单元与边界元单元组的映射关系,将边界单元组上的波浪力映射到结构有限单元上;作用在桥梁上的气动力通过有限元法进行计算,包括由脉动风激发的非定常抖振力和由气弹相互作用产生的自激力.在此基础上,基于随机振动分析的高效算法——虚拟激励法,建立了计算桥梁风-浪耦合作用响应的分析方法.最后,针对某跨海超大跨桥梁方案进行研究,结果表明:与风致响应相比,风-浪耦合作用下桥梁深水基础内力显著增大,其中波浪激发的侧向剪力占主导地位,波浪激发的侧向弯矩在海床附近与风致响应基本相当,但在海床以下更大;斜风-波浪耦合作用下的主梁内力响应和深水基础内力响应比正交风-波浪耦合作用下的结果更大.因此,在跨海桥梁设计中,必须考虑风-浪耦合作用效应.     

The diffraction of Kelvin wave due to an island

This paper describes a numerical method to determine the diffraction effect of an oceanographic Kelvin wave system by an island. A standard shallow water approximation theory is assumed for the oceanographic equation. The problem is solved in two cases, when the island is elliptic and circular in shape and when it is far or near to the coastline, also when the island becomes narrow and perpendicular to an infinitely long coastline. Numerical computation of diffraction of the Kelvin waves has been calculated and plotted.     

用时变雷诺方程模型模拟孤立波与半圆型防波堤的相互作用

以时变雷诺方程为控制方程,用k-ε模型封闭该方程,采用体积函数(VOF)方法来跟踪波动自由表面,建立了二维垂向波浪数学模型,并用已有的实验资料进行了验证．随后用该模型模拟了半圆型防波堤与孤立波在淹没、平顶水位、完全露顶且不越浪3种典型工况下的相互作用过程．得到了半圆堤附近的流场、压强场和波面的变形过程．结果表明,在淹没状态下,半圆堤背浪面的底部会产生涡旋;平顶水位时,由于越浪的冲击作用,在半圆堤的背浪面将逐渐形成一对较大的涡旋,而半圆堤背浪面的底部,速度始终相对较小;而在露顶不越浪时,半圆堤的迎浪面会出现波浪的二次爬升的现象．为进一步研究结构物附近的污染物的输移扩散和泥沙运动提供基础．     

不同类型近破波作用下沉箱式防波堤的振动-提离摇摆运动

倾覆失稳是沉箱式防波堤的主要破坏形式之一,是稳定性验算的基本内容．采用质量-弹簧-阻尼器集总参数模型模拟沉箱式防波堤在单峰值冲击型、双峰值冲击型和冲击-振荡衰减型等不同类型近破波作用下的振动-提离摇摆运动过程,研究了不同类型近破波和沉箱的提离摇摆运动对沉箱式防波堤动力响应的影响．结果表明,在近破波冲击力幅值相同的条件下,近破波类型对沉箱的动力响应影响很大;提离摇摆运动虽然会使沉箱的转角幅值增大,但可有效地减小沉箱的位移、滑移力和倾覆力矩幅值．研究成果为允许沉箱式防波堤出现提离摇摆运动的设计概念提供了理论基础．     

Decay rates of energy of the 1D damped original nonlinear wave equation

We consider the decay rate of energy of the 1D damped original nonlinear wave equation. We first construct a new energy function. Then, employing the perturbed energy method and the generalized Young’s inequality, we prove that, with a general growth assumption on the nonlinear damping force near the origin, the decay rate of energy is governed by a dissipative ordinary differential equation. This allows us to recover the classical exponential, polynomial, or logarithmic decay rate for the linear, polynomial or exponentially degenerating damping force near the origin, respectively. Unlike the linear wave equation, the exponential decay rate constant depends on the initial data, due to the nonlinearity.     

Solitary Wave Transformation Due to a Change in Polarity

Solitary wave transformation in a zone with sign-variable coefficient for the quadratic nonlinear term is studied for the variable-coefficient Korteweg–de Vries equation. Such a change of sign implies a change in polarity for the solitary wave solutions of this equation. This situation can be realized for internal waves in a stratified ocean, when the pycnocline lies halfway between the seabed and the sea surface. The width of the transition zone of the variable nonlinear coefficient is allowed to vary over a wide range. In the case of a short transition zone it is shown using asymptotic theory that there is no solitary wave generation after passage through the turning point, where the coefficient of the quadratic nonlinear term goes to zero. In the case of a very wide transition zone it is shown that one or more solitary waves of the opposite polarity are generated after passage through the turning point. Here, asymptotic methods are effective only for the first (adiabatic) stage when the solitary wave is approaching the turning point. The results from the asymptotic theories are confirmed by direct numerical simulation. The hypothesis that the pedestal behind the solitary wave approaching the turning point has a significant role on the generation of the terminal solitary wave after the transition zone is examined. It is shown that the pedestal is not the sole contributor to the amplitude of the terminal solitary wave. A negative disturbance at the turning point due to the transformation in the zone of the variable nonlinear coefficient contributes as much to the process of the generation of the terminal solitary waves.     

A Novel Localized Meshless Collocation Method for Numerical Simulation of Flume Dynamic Characteristics北大核心CSCD

局部边界节点法是一种基于非奇异半解析基函数和移动最小二乘原理的新型无网格配点技术,该方法把每个节点处的未知变量表示为该点对应的局部子域内节点处物理量的线性组合,该文基于局部边界节点法对数值波浪水槽进行了研究。首先,通过基准算例确定了Laplace算子非奇异半解析基函数的合理形状参数值。进一步,基于合理的参数选取,用较少的离散节点即可成功模拟波浪传播行为,将得到的数值结果与其他文献数值结果比较,可以发现局部边界节点法用更少的局部点即可得到较好的数值结果。最后,以保护近海岸建筑物为目标,模拟了水下防波堤对波浪传播的影响。结果表明,当波浪与梯形防波堤发生作用后,波峰变得比较陡峭,而波谷变得相对比较平坦,为近海岸防波堤的相关研究和设计提供了数值参考。     

桩基承台结构的波流力研究进展

我国近海风电场建设大多采用桩基承台结构．总结了不规则波浪和水流共同作用下桩基承台结构的波流力物理模型实验结果,得到了群桩效应系数及其变化规律,讨论了作用于近水面承台底部的波浪拍击力;从理论上分析了规则波作用下承台对桩基波浪力的影响;建立了规则波与桩基承台相互作用的数值模型,揭示了波浪在承台的上浪与爬高及其水动力特征．鉴于桩基承台结构包含多个斜桩和较大尺度的承台,在波浪与水流作用下该结构物附近的流场结构十分复杂,有必要针对结构附近的流动结构以及自由表面大变形开展细致的实验和数值模拟研究,以进一步揭示作用于这类结构的波流力变化规律及其机理.     

Generating Boundary Conditions for the Calculation of Tsunami Propagation on Nested Grids

Some boundary conditions used to numerically simulate tsunami generation and propagation are studied. Special attention is given to generating boundary conditions thatmake it possible to simulate tsunami waves with desired characteristics (amplitude, time period and, in general, waveform). Since the water flow velocity in a propagating tsunami wave is uniquely defined by its height and ocean depth, one can simulate a wave propagating from the boundary into the simulation area. This can be done by specifying the wave height and water flow velocity on the boundary. This method is used to numerically simulate the propagation of a tsunami from the source to the coast on a sequence of refined grids. In this numerical experiment the wave parameters are transferred from the larger area to the subarea via boundary conditions. This method can also generate a wave that has certain characteristics on a specified line.     

The loss of stability of a two-step rod when it hits a rigid barrier

The critical precollision velocity of a two-step rod of finite length when it collides with a rigid obstacle, leading to a loss of its stability, is calculated by an analytical solution of the wave equation using d’Alembert's method. The critical force and velocity are calculated using Euler's formula for a static load.     

Evolution of solitary waves for a perturbed nonlinear Schrödinger equation

Soliton perturbation theory is used to determine the evolution of a solitary wave described by a perturbed nonlinear Schrödinger equation. Perturbation terms, which model wide classes of physically relevant perturbations, are considered. An analytical solution is found for the first-order correction of the evolving solitary wave. This solution for the solitary wave tail is in integral form and an explicit expression is found, for large time. Singularity theory, usually used for combustion problems, is applied to the large time expression for the solitary wave tail. Analytical results are obtained, such as the parameter regions in which qualitatively different types of solitary wave tails occur, the location of zeros and the location and amplitude of peaks, in the solitary wave tail. Two examples, the near-continuum limit of a discrete NLS equation and an explicit numerical scheme for the NLS equation, are considered in detail. For the discrete NLS equation it is found that three qualitatively different types of solitary wave tail can occur, while for the explicit finite-difference scheme, only one type of solitary wave tail occurs. An excellent comparison between the perturbation solution and numerical simulations, for the solitary wave tail, is found for both examples.     

Estimating the height of a tsunami wave propagating over a parabolic bottom in the ray approximation

In this paper, the kinematics of tsunami wave rays and wavefronts propagating over an uneven bottom is considered. Formulas to determine the wave height along a ray tube are obtained. An exact analytical solution for the trajectory of a wave ray over a parabolic bottom is derived. In the wave-ray approximation, this solution makes it possible to analytically determine the heights of tsunami waves over an area with a sloping bottom. The distribution of wave-height maxima over an area with a parabolic bottom is compared with that obtained by numerical computation with a shallow-water model.     

Wave generation in a computation domain

One of the possible methods to deal with the reflecting waves at the incident boundary in numerical modeling is to generate waves in the computation domain and absorb the outgoing waves at the incident boundary. A source function is introduced into the momentum equation of Boussinesq equations for generating wave in a computation domain in this paper. Typical numerical examples are given for the verification of the proposed method. Numerical examination for the wave diffraction through a breakwater gap shows that the proposed method is especially useful for multidirectional waves.     

The calculation of the energy losses in a sliding elastic contact with friction and wear (the plane problem)

The plane problem of the sliding contact of a punch with an elastic foundation when there is friction and wear is considered. Assuming the existence of a steady solution in a moving system of coordinates, relations are derived between the sliding velocity, the wear, the contact stresses and the displacements for an arbitrary dependence of the wear rate on the contact pressure. Taking into account the presence of a deformation component of the friction force, an equation is written for the balance of the mechanical energy for the punch - elastic base system considered. It is shown that the equality of the work of the external force in displacing the punch to the losses due to friction and the change in the shape of the foundation due to wear is satisfied when the work done by the contact stresses on the increments of the boundary displacements is equal to zero, and the frictional losses must be determined taking into account the non-uniformity of the distributions of the shear contact stresses and the sliding velocity in the contact area. Two special cases of the foundation in the form of a wide and narrow strip are considered, for which the total coefficient of friction is calculated, taking into account the deformation component of the friction force.     

Recent progresses in studies on wave-current loads on foundation structure with piles and slab?

The foundation structure with piles and slab is widely used in o?shore wind farm construction in shallow water. Experimental studies on the hydrodynamic loads acting on the piles and slab under irregular waves and currents are summarized with discussion on the e?ects of pile grouping on the wave forces and wave impact loads on the slab locating near the free surface. By applying the theoretical solution of the wave di?racted by the slab and using the Morison equation to evaluate the wave force on the piles, the e?ects of the slab on the wave forces acting on the piles are analyzed. Based on the Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations and the volume of ?uid (VOF) method, a numerical wave basin is developed to simulate the wave-structure interaction. The computed maximum wave force on the foundation structure with piles and slab agrees well with the measured data. The violent deformation, breaking, and run-up of the wave around the structure are presented and discussed. Further work on the turbulent ?ow structures and large deformation of the free surface due to interaction of the waves and foundation structures of o?shore wind farms needs more e?cient approaches for evaluating hydrodynamic loads under the e?ects of nonlinear waves and currents.     

Weak and Strong Interactions between Internal Solitary Waves

The interaction of weakly nonlinear long internal gravity waves is studied. Weak interactions occur when the wave phase speeds are unequal; this case includes that of a head-on collision. It is shown that each wave satisfies a Korteweg-de Vries equation, and the main effect of the interaction is described by a phase shift. Strong interactions occur when the wave phase speeds are nearly equal although the waves belong to different modes. This case is described by a pair of coupled Korteweg-de Vries equations, for which some preliminary numerical results are presented.     

A numerical algorithm for computing tsunami wave amplitudes

A numerical multistep algorithm for computing tsunami wave front amplitudes is proposed. The first step consists in solving an appropriate eikonal equation. The eikonal equation is solved with Godunov’s approach and a bicharacteristic method. A qualitative comparison of the two methods is done. A change of variables is made with the eikonal equation solution at the second step. At the last step, using an expansion of the fundamental solution to the shallow water equations in the new variables, we obtain a Cauchy problem of lesser dimension for the leading edge wave amplitude. The results of numerical experiments are presented.     

Weak Formulation of Free-Surface Wave Equations

An alternative method for deriving water wave dispersion relations and evolution equations is to use a weak formulation. The free-surface displacement η is written as an eigenfunction expansion, [equation] where the an(t) are time-dependent coefficients. For a tank with vertical sides the E_n are eigenfunctions of the eigenvalue problem, [equation] on the tank side walls. Evolution equations for the a_n(t) can be obtained by taking inner products of the lin-earised equation of motion, [equation] with the normal irrotational wave modes. For unforced waves each evolution equation is a simple harmonic oscillator, but the method is most useful when the body force F is something more exotic than gravity. It can always be represented by a forcing term in the SHM evolution equation, and it is not necessary to assume F irrotational. Several applications are considered: the Faraday experiment, generation of surface waves by an unsteady magnetic field, and the metal-pad instability in aluminium reduction cells.     

奇异边界法分析含水下障碍物水域中的水波传播问题

研究奇异边界法模拟水波在含水下障碍物水域的传播过程.奇异边界法是一种最近提出的新型边界配点方法,具有无网格和无数值积分、数学简单、编程容易等优点.首先研究了奇异边界法分析典型水波算例的精度及效率,并与边界元法的计算结果进行比较,然后通过数值模拟讨论分析了水下障碍物位置、尺寸及形状等因素对水波传播的影响.发现奇异边界法的计算精度较高,且与边界元法的计算结果吻合较好;数值结果显示水下障碍物的不同高宽比对水波的传播影响明显:障碍物无量纲高度越大对水波的屏障作用越明显;障碍物无量纲宽度增加对水波的屏障作用先增强后变弱.在高宽比一定时,斜率变化对水波的屏障作用不明显;含吸收边界水下障碍物可以得到较低的传递系数和较高的反射系数, 对水波的屏障作用更为明显.