Boussinesq cut‐cell model for non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures

Boussinesq models describe the phase‐resolved hydrodynamics of unbroken waves and wave‐induced currents in shallow coastal waters. Many enhanced versions of the Boussinesq equations are available in the literature, aiming to improve the representation of linear dispersion and non‐linearity. This paper describes the numerical solution of the extended Boussinesq equations derived by Madsen and Sørensen (Coastal Eng. 1992; 15 :371–388) on Cartesian cut‐cell grids, the aim being to model non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures. An explicit second‐order MUSCL‐Hancock Godunov‐type finite volume scheme is used to solve the non‐linear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq‐type equations. Interface fluxes are evaluated using an HLLC approximate Riemann solver. A ghost‐cell immersed boundary method is used to update flow information in the smallest cut cells and overcome the time step restriction that would otherwise apply. The model is validated for solitary wave reflection from a vertical wall, diffraction of a solitary wave by a truncated barrier, and solitary wave scattering and diffraction from a vertical circular cylinder. In all cases, the model gives satisfactory predictions in comparison with the published analytical solutions and experimental measurements. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A robust high‐resolution finite volume scheme for the simulation of long waves over complex domains

The propagation, runup and rundown of long surface waves are numerically investigated, initially in one dimension, using a well‐balanced high‐resolution finite volume scheme. A conservative form of the nonlinear shallow water equations with source terms is solved numerically using a high‐resolution Godunov‐type explicit scheme coupled with Roe's approximate Riemann solver. The scheme is also extended to handle two‐dimensional complex domains. The numerical difficulties related to the presence of the topography source terms in the model equations along with the appearance of the wet/dry fronts are properly treated and extended. The resulting numerical model accurately describes breaking waves as bores or hydraulic jumps and conserves volume across flow discontinuities. Numerical results show very good agreement with previously presented analytical or asymptotic solutions as well as with experimental benchmark data. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Internal waves in a two‐layer system using fully nonlinear internal‐wave equations

In order to understand the nonlinear effect in a two‐layer system, fully nonlinear strongly dispersive internal‐wave equations, based on a variational principle, were proposed in this study. A simple iteration method was used to solve the internal‐wave equations in order to solve the equations stably. The applicability of the proposed numerical computation scheme was confirmed to agree with linear dispersion relation theoretically obtained from variational principle. The proposed computational scheme was also shown to reproduce internal waves including higher‐order nonlinear effect from the analysis of internal solitary waves in a two‐layer system. Furthermore, for the second‐order numerical analysis, the balance of nonlinearity and dispersion was found to be similar to the balance assumed in the KdV theory and the Boussinesq‐type equations. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Solving a fully nonlinear highly dispersive Boussinesq model with mesh‐less least square‐based finite difference method

Combining mesh‐less finite difference method and least square approximation, a new numerical model is developed for water wave propagation model in two horizontal dimensions. In the numerical formulation of the method, the approximation of the unknown functions and their derivatives are constructed on a set of nodes in a local circular‐shaped region. The Boussinesq equations studied in this paper is a fully nonlinear and highly dispersive model, which is composed of the exact boundary conditions and the truncated series expansion solution of the Laplace equation. The resultant system involves a sparse, unsymmetrical matrix to be solved at each time step of the simulation. Matrix solutions are studied to reduce the computing resource requirements and improve the efficiency and accuracy. The convergence properties of the present numerical method are investigated. Preliminary verifications are given for nonlinear wave shoaling problems; the numerical results agree well with experimental data available in the literature. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

基于Boussinesq方程的波浪模型

从欧拉方程出发，提供了另一种推导完全非线性Boussinesq方程的方法，并对方程的 线性色散关系和线性变浅率进行了改进. 改进后方程的线性色散关系达到了一阶Stokes波 色散关系的Pad\'{e}[4,4]近似，在相对水深达1.0的强色散波浪时仍保持较高的准确性，并且方程的非线性和线性 变浅率都得到了不同程度的改善. 方程的水平一维形式用预估-校正的有限差分格式求解， 建立了一个适合较强非线性波浪的Boussinesq波浪数值模型. 作为验证，模拟了波浪在潜 堤上的传播变形，计算结果和实验数据的比较发现两者符合良好.     

破碎带波浪的数值模拟

基于一组色散关系得到改进的完全非线性Boussinesq方程建立了一个波浪模型可以模拟近岸水域的波浪变浅、破碎以及在海滩上的爬高等多种变形。波浪破碎引起的能量衰减是在动量方程中引入一个在空间和时间上都只作用于波前的涡粘项来模拟。动海岸线边界用窄缝法处理。波浪爬高用非线性浅水方程推导的非破碎波浪在斜坡上爬高的解析解来验证。本模型还模拟了波浪在斜坡上不同类型的破碎变形过程,并将其波高和平均水位的沿程变化和物理模型实验的结果比较,两者符合良好。     

Higher order dispersive effects in regularized Boussinesq equation

In this paper, we consider the higher order Boussinesq (HBq) equation which models the bi-directional propagation of longitudinal waves in various continuous media. The equation contains the higher order effects of frequency dispersion. The present study is devoted to the numerical investigation of the HBq equation. For this aim a numerical scheme combining the Fourier pseudo-spectral method in space and a Runge–Kutta method in time is constructed. The convergence of semi-discrete scheme is proved in an appropriate Sobolev space. To investigate the higher order dispersive effects and nonlinear effects on the solutions of HBq equation, propagation of single solitary wave, head-on collision of solitary waves and blow-up solutions are considered.     

Multi-symplectic method for generalized Boussinesq equation

The generalized Boussinesq equation that represents a group of important nonlinear equations possesses many interesting properties. Multi-symplectic formulations of the generalized Boussinesq equation in the Hamilton space are introduced in this paper. And then an implicit multi-symplectic scheme equivalent to the multi-symplectic Box scheme is constructed to solve the partial differential equations （PDEs） derived from the generalized Boussinesq equation. Finally, the numerical experiments on the soliton solutions of the generalized Boussinesq equation are reported. The results show that the multi-symplectic method is an efficient algorithm with excellent long-time numerical behaviors for nonlinear partial differential equations.     

Further application of hybrid solution to another form of Boussinesq equations and comparisons

Recently, a new hybrid scheme is introduced for the solution of the Boussinesq equations. In this study, the hybrid scheme is used to solve another form of the Boussinesq equations. The hybrid solution is composed of finite‐volume and finite difference method. The finite‐volume method is applied to conservative part of the governing equations, whereas the higher order Boussinesq terms are discretized using the finite‐difference scheme. Fourth‐order accuracy is provided in both time and space. The solution is then applied to several test cases, which are taken from the previous studies. The results of this study are compared with experimental and theoretical results as well as those of the previous ones. The comparisons indicate that the Boussinesq equations solved here and in the previous study produce quite similar results. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Analysis of efficient preconditioned defect correction methods for nonlinear water waves

Robust computational procedures for the solution of non‐hydrostatic, free surface, irrotational and inviscid free‐surface water waves in three space dimensions can be based on iterative preconditioned defect correction (PDC) methods. Such methods can be made efficient and scalable to enable prediction of free‐surface wave transformation and accurate wave kinematics in both deep and shallow waters in large marine areas or for predicting the outcome of experiments in large numerical wave tanks. We revisit the classical governing equations are fully nonlinear and dispersive potential flow equations. We present new detailed fundamental analysis using finite‐amplitude wave solutions for iterative solvers. We demonstrate that the PDC method in combination with a high‐order discretization method enables efficient and scalable solution of the linear system of equations arising in potential flow models. Our study is particularly relevant for fast and efficient simulation of non‐breaking fully nonlinear water waves over varying bottom topography that may be limited by computational resources or requirements. To gain insight into algorithmic properties and proper choices of discretization parameters for different PDC strategies, we study systematically limits of accuracy, convergence rate, algorithmic and numerical efficiency and scalability of the most efficient known PDC methods. These strategies are of interest, because they enable generalization of geometric multigrid methods to high‐order accurate discretizations and enable significant improvement in numerical efficiency while incuring minimal storage requirements. We demonstrate robustness using such PDC methods for practical ranges of interest for coastal and maritime engineering, that is, from shallow to deep water, and report details of numerical experiments that can be used for benchmarking purposes. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Boundary‐fitted non‐linear dispersive wave model for regions of arbitrary geometry

A vertically integrated non‐linear dispersive wave model is expressed in non‐orthogonal curvilinear co‐ordinate system for simulating shallow or deep water wave motions in regions of arbitrary geometry. Both dependent and independent variables are transformed so that an irregular physical domain is converted into a rectangular computational domain with contravariant velocities. Thus, the wall condition for enclosures surrounding a typical physical domain, such as a channel, port or harbor, is satisfied accurately and easily. The numerical scheme is based on staggered grid finite‐difference approximations, which result in implicit formulations for the momentum equations and semi‐explicit formulation for the continuity equation. Test cases of linear wave propagation in converging, diverging and circular channels are performed to check the reliability of model simulations against the analytical solutions. Cnoidal waves of different steepness values in a circular channel are also considered as examples to non‐linear wave propagation within curved walls. In closing, remarks concerning versatility and practical uses of the numerical model are made. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

On uniformly accurate high‐order Boussinesq difference equations for water waves

A new accurate finite‐difference (AFD) numerical method is developed specifically for solving high‐order Boussinesq (HOB) equations. The method solves the water‐wave flow with much higher accuracy compared to the standard finite‐difference (SFD) method for the same computer resources. It is first developed for linear water waves and then for the nonlinear problem. It is presented for a horizontal bottom, but can be used for variable depth as well. The method can be developed for other equations as long as they use Padé approximation, for example extensions of the parabolic equation for acoustic wave problems. Finally, the results of the new method and the SFD method are compared with the accurate solution for nonlinear progressive waves over a horizontal bottom that is found using the stream function theory. The agreement of the AFD to the accurate solution is found to be excellent compared to the SFD solution. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A high‐order Petrov–Galerkin finite element method for the classical Boussinesq wave model

A high‐order Petrov–Galerkin finite element scheme is presented to solve the one‐dimensional depth‐integrated classical Boussinesq equations for weakly non‐linear and weakly dispersive waves. Finite elements are used both in the space and the time domains. The shape functions are bilinear in space–time, whereas the weighting functions are linear in space and quadratic in time, with C⁰‐continuity. Dispersion correction and a highly selective dissipation mechanism are introduced through additional streamline upwind terms in the weighting functions. An implicit, conditionally stable, one‐step predictor–corrector time integration scheme results. The accuracy and stability of the non‐linear discrete equations are investigated by means of a local Taylor series expansion. A linear spectral analysis is used for the full characterization of the predictor–corrector inner iterations. Based on the order of the analytical terms of the Boussinesq model and on the order of the numerical discretization, it is concluded that the scheme is fourth‐order accurate in terms of phase velocity. The dissipation term is third order only affecting the shortest wavelengths. A numerical convergence analysis showed a second‐order convergence rate in terms of both element size and time step. Four numerical experiments are addressed and their results are compared with analytical solutions or experimental data available in the literature: the propagation of a solitary wave, the oscillation of a flat bottom closed basin, the oscillation of a non‐flat bottom closed basin, and the propagation of a periodic wave over a submerged bar. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

随机波浪作用下近岸波流场的数值模拟

结合近岸波浪抛物型缓坡模型和近岸波流场模型,对近岸不规则波浪及其破碎后所产生的流场进行了数值模拟. 在不规则波浪场的模拟中,采用JONSWAP波浪谱对入射单向不规则波浪要素按等分频率法进行离散,应用考虑波浪不规则性和破碎效应的抛物型缓坡方程对波浪场进行数值模拟,并基于抛物型缓坡方程中的波浪势函数等参数计算波浪辐射应力,以波浪辐射应力为主要动力因素基于近岸流数学模型对近岸波浪破碎所产生的近岸流场进行数值模拟,并对数值模拟结果进行了验证. 模拟结果表明该模型可有效地用于研究波浪破碎产生的近岸波流场.      

Numerical simulation of standing wave with 3D predictor-corrector finite difference method for potential flow equations

A three-dimensional （3D） predictor-corrector finite difference method for standing wave is developed. It is applied to solve the 3D nonlinear potential flow equa- tions with a free surface. The 3D irregular tank is mapped onto a fixed cubic tank through the proper coordinate transform schemes. The cubic tank is distributed by the staggered meshgrid, and the staggered meshgrid is used to denote the variables of the flow field. The predictor-corrector finite difference method is given to develop the difference equa- tions of the dynamic boundary equation and kinematic boundary equation. Experimental results show that, using the finite difference method of the predictor-corrector scheme, the numerical solutions agree well with the published results. The wave profiles of the standing wave with different amplitudes and wave lengths are studied. The numerical solutions are also analyzed and presented graphically.     

Numerical simulation of fully nonlinear irregular wave tank in three dimension

A fully nonlinear irregular wave tank has been developed using a three‐dimensional higher‐order boundary element method (HOBEM) in the time domain. The Laplace equation is solved at each time step by an integral equation method. Based on image theory, a new Green function is applied in the whole fluid domain so that only the incident surface and free surface are discretized for the integral equation. The fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions are integrated with time to update the wave profile and boundary values on it by a semi‐mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian time marching scheme. The incident waves are generated by feeding analytic forms on the input boundary and a ramp function is introduced at the start of simulation to avoid the initial transient disturbance. The outgoing waves are sufficiently dissipated by using a spatially varying artificial damping on the free surface before they reach the downstream boundary. Numerous numerical simulations of linear and nonlinear waves are performed and the simulated results are compared with the theoretical input waves. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Hybrid finite‐volume finite‐difference scheme for the solution of Boussinesq equations

A hybrid scheme composed of finite‐volume and finite‐difference methods is introduced for the solution of the Boussinesq equations. While the finite‐volume method with a Riemann solver is applied to the conservative part of the equations, the higher‐order Boussinesq terms are discretized using the finite‐difference scheme. Fourth‐order accuracy in space for the finite‐volume solution is achieved using the MUSCL‐TVD scheme. Within this, four limiters have been tested, of which van‐Leer limiter is found to be the most suitable. The Adams–Basforth third‐order predictor and Adams–Moulton fourth‐order corrector methods are used to obtain fourth‐order accuracy in time. A recently introduced surface gradient technique is employed for the treatment of the bottom slope. A new model ‘HYWAVE’, based on this hybrid solution, has been applied to a number of wave propagation examples, most of which are taken from previous studies. Examples include sinusoidal waves and bi‐chromatic wave propagation in deep water, sinusoidal wave propagation in shallow water and sinusoidal wave propagation from deep to shallow water demonstrating the linear shoaling properties of the model. Finally, sinusoidal wave propagation over a bar is simulated. The results are in good agreement with the theoretical expectations and published experimental results. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The integral bifurcation method combined with factoring technique for investigating exact solutions and their dynamical properties of a generalized Gardner equation

It is well known that it is difficult to obtain exact solutions of some partial differential equations with highly nonlinear terms or high order terms because these kinds of equations are not integrable in usual conditions. In this paper, by using the integral bifurcation method and factoring technique, we studied a generalized Gardner equation which contains both highly nonlinear terms and high order terms, some exact traveling wave solutions such as non-smooth peakon solutions, smooth periodic solutions and hyperbolic function solutions to the considered equation are obtained. Moreover, we demonstrate the profiles of these exact traveling wave solutions and discuss their dynamic properties through numerical simulations.     

A fully coupled numerical technique for 2D bed morphology calculations

A fully coupled two‐dimensional subcritical and/or supercritical, viscous, free‐surface flow numerical model is developed to calculate bed variations in alluvial channels. Vertically averaged free‐surface flow equations in conjunction with sediment transport equation are numerically solved using an explicit finite‐volume scheme using transformed grid in order to handle complex geometry fluvial problems. Convergence is accelerated with use of a multi‐grid technique. Firstly the capabilities of the proposed method are demonstrated by analyzing subcritical and supercritical hydrodynamic flows. Thereafter, an analysis of one‐ and two‐dimensional flows is performed referring to aggradation and scouring. For all reported test cases the computed results compare reasonably well with measurements as well as with other numerical solutions. The method is stable, reliable and accurate handling a variety of sediment transport equations with rapid changes of sediment transport at the boundaries. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

非均匀水流中非线性波传播的数值模拟

以一种考虑波流相互作用的新型{Boussinesq}型方程为控制方程组， 采用五阶{Runge}-{Kutta}-{England}格式离散时间积分，采用七点 差分格式离散空间导数，并通过采用恰当的出流边界条件，从而建立了非均匀水流中非线性 波传播的数值模拟模型. 通过对均匀水流与水深水域内和潜堤地形上存在弱流或强流时波浪 传播的数值模拟，说明模型能有效地反映水流对波浪传播的影响.