Wave reflection by a submerged cycloidal breakwater in presence of a beach with different depth profiles

In this work, formulas for the reflection and transmission coefficients of one-dimensional linear water waves propagating over a submerged structure with a cycloidal cross section in presence of a sloping beach are determined. In the specialized literature, the previous coefficients are obtained mainly for the limit of linear water waves, considering that the water depth upstream and downstream of the structure is flat. For the analysis, we have obtained an approximate analytical solution to the dimensionless Modified Mild-Slope Equation, which models the interactions of a wide range of water waves, from short waves to long waves. The results shown that the presence of small breakwaters not always generate increments on the reflection coefficients, but on the contrary case they contribute to the reflection of the waves decreasing, which is due to the interference of energy that exists between the inclined beach and the structure. To validate the approximate analytical solution, we present a comparison against analytical solutions reported in the specialized literature, obtained with the aid of linear long wave theory, and a numerical solution, all the solutions adjust properly. Results of this study are expected to be used by coastal engineers for preliminary feasibility and desk design of submerged cycloidal breakwaters.     

A fully non‐linear model for three‐dimensional overturning waves over an arbitrary bottom

An accurate three‐dimensional numerical model, applicable to strongly non‐linear waves, is proposed. The model solves fully non‐linear potential flow equations with a free surface using a higher‐order three‐dimensional boundary element method (BEM) and a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian time updating, based on second‐order explicit Taylor series expansions with adaptive time steps. The model is applicable to non‐linear wave transformations from deep to shallow water over complex bottom topography up to overturning and breaking. Arbitrary waves can be generated in the model, and reflective or absorbing boundary conditions specified on lateral boundaries. In the BEM, boundary geometry and field variables are represented by 16‐node cubic ‘sliding’ quadrilateral elements, providing local inter‐element continuity of the first and second derivatives. Accurate and efficient numerical integrations are developed for these elements. Discretized boundary conditions at intersections (corner/edges) between the free surface or the bottom and lateral boundaries are well‐posed in all cases of mixed boundary conditions. Higher‐order tangential derivatives, required for the time updating, are calculated in a local curvilinear co‐ordinate system, using 25‐node ‘sliding’ fourth‐order quadrilateral elements. Very high accuracy is achieved in the model for mass and energy conservation. No smoothing of the solution is required, but regridding to a higher resolution can be specified at any time over selected areas of the free surface. Applications are presented for the propagation of numerically exact solitary waves. Model properties of accuracy and convergence with a refined spatio‐temporal discretization are assessed by propagating such a wave over constant depth. The shoaling of solitary waves up to overturning is then calculated over a 1:15 plane slope, and results show good agreement with a two‐dimensional solution proposed earlier. Finally, three‐dimensional overturning waves are generated over a 1:15 sloping bottom having a ridge in the middle, thus focusing wave energy. The node regridding method is used to refine the discretization around the overturning wave. Convergence of the solution with grid size is also verified for this case. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Nonlinear flexural waves in fluid–filled elastic channels

Nonlinear waves on liquid sheets between thin infinite elastic plates are studied analytically and numerically. Linear and nonlinear models are used for the elastic plates coupled to the Euler equations for the fluid. One-dimensional time-dependent equations are derived based on a long-wavelength approximation. Inertia of the elastic plates is neglected, so linear perturbations are stable. Symmetric and mixed-mode travelling waves are found with the linear plate model and symmetric travelling waves are found for the nonlinear case. Numerical simulations are employed to study the evolution in time of initial disturbances and to compare the different models used. Nonlinear effects are found to decrease the travelling wave speed compared with linear models. At sufficiently large amplitude of initial disturbances, higher order temporal oscillations induced by nonlinearity can lead to thickness of the liquid sheet approaching zero.     

Roll waves structure in two-layer Hele–Shaw flows

The mathematical model of inhomogeneous fluid motion in a Hele–Shaw cell is proposed. Based on this model the equations for describing two-layer flows and development of roll waves at the interface are derived. Conditions of roll waves existence are formulated in terms of Whitham criterion. Numerical calculations of the interface position are provided. It is shown that small perturbations of the interface in the inlet section of the channel lead to the roll waves for certain parameters of the flow. Two-parametric class of exact solutions corresponding to the roll waves regime is obtained. Diagrams of critical depths of roll waves development are constructed.     

Propagation of Magnetoelastic Shear Waves Through a Regularly Laminated Medium with Metallized Interfaces

An exact solution is found for magnetoelastic shear waves in an infinite structure consisting of three metallized layers. The core layer is ferrite and the face layers are nonmagnetic dielectrics. The wave process in the layers is described by a linearized system of magnetoelastic equations. The problem posed is reduced to a system of linear algebraic equations. The existence conditions for an undamped solution to this system yield the existence conditions for magnetoelastic bulk waves. The dispersion relations derived are analyzed in detail     

A numerical method for the determination of weakly non‐hydrostatic non‐linear free surface wave propagation

A numerical method is described that may be used to determine the propagation characteristics of weakly non‐hydrostatic non‐linear free surface waves over a general, bottom topography. In shallow water of constant undisturbed depth, such waves are equivalent to the familiar cnoidal waves characterized by sharp crests and relatively flat troughs. For a certain range of parameters, these propagate without change of form by virtue of the weakly non‐hydrostatic balance in the vertical momentum equation. Effectively, this counters the tendency for the non‐linearity in a purely hydrostatic theory to lead to a continuously deforming surface wave profile. The realistic representation furnished by cnoidal wave theory of free surface waves in the shallow near‐shore zone has led to its utilization in evaluating their propagation characteristics. Nonetheless, the classic analytical theory is inapplicable to the case of wave propagation over a sloping beach or off‐shore sand bar topography. Under these conditions, a local change in form of the surface wave profile is anticipated before the waves break and knowing this is required in order to evaluate fully the propagation process. The efficacy of the numerical method is first demonstrated by comparing the solution for water of constant depth with the evaluation of the analytical solution expressed in terms of the Jacobian elliptic function cn. The general method described in the paper is then illustrated by experiments to determine the change in profile of weakly non‐hydrostatic non‐linear surface waves propagating over bed forms representative of those found in shallow coastal seas. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A σ‐coordinate non‐hydrostatic model with embedded Boussinesq‐type‐like equations for modeling deep‐water waves

A σ‐coordinate non‐hydrostatic model, combined with the embedded Boussinesq‐type‐like equations, a reference velocity, and an adapted top‐layer control, is developed to study the evolution of deep‐water waves. The advantage of using the Boussinesq‐type‐like equations with the reference velocity is to provide an analytical‐based non‐hydrostatic pressure distribution at the top‐layer and to optimize wave dispersion property. The σ‐based non‐hydrostatic model naturally tackles the so‐called overshooting issue in the case of non‐linear steep waves. Efficiency and accuracy of this non‐hydrostatic model in terms of wave dispersion and nonlinearity are critically examined. Overall results show that the newly developed model using a few layers is capable of resolving the evolution of non‐linear deep‐water wave groups. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The stability of finite-amplitude interfacial solitary waves

The linear stability of finite-amplitude interfacial gravity solitary waves propagating in a two-layer fluid is investigated analytically focusing on the occurrence of an exchange of stability. We make an asymptotic analysis for small growth rates of infinitesimal disturbances, and explicitly obtain their growth rates near an exchange of stability. The result indicates that an exchange of stability occurs at every stationary value of the total energy of the solitary waves. It also gives us information whether the number of growing modes increases or decreases after experiencing the exchange of stability. We apply these analytical results to specific interfacial solitary waves, and find various features on their stability that are not seen in the case of surface solitary waves.     

On uniformly accurate high‐order Boussinesq difference equations for water waves

A new accurate finite‐difference (AFD) numerical method is developed specifically for solving high‐order Boussinesq (HOB) equations. The method solves the water‐wave flow with much higher accuracy compared to the standard finite‐difference (SFD) method for the same computer resources. It is first developed for linear water waves and then for the nonlinear problem. It is presented for a horizontal bottom, but can be used for variable depth as well. The method can be developed for other equations as long as they use Padé approximation, for example extensions of the parabolic equation for acoustic wave problems. Finally, the results of the new method and the SFD method are compared with the accurate solution for nonlinear progressive waves over a horizontal bottom that is found using the stream function theory. The agreement of the AFD to the accurate solution is found to be excellent compared to the SFD solution. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Boussinesq cut‐cell model for non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures

Boussinesq models describe the phase‐resolved hydrodynamics of unbroken waves and wave‐induced currents in shallow coastal waters. Many enhanced versions of the Boussinesq equations are available in the literature, aiming to improve the representation of linear dispersion and non‐linearity. This paper describes the numerical solution of the extended Boussinesq equations derived by Madsen and Sørensen (Coastal Eng. 1992; 15 :371–388) on Cartesian cut‐cell grids, the aim being to model non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures. An explicit second‐order MUSCL‐Hancock Godunov‐type finite volume scheme is used to solve the non‐linear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq‐type equations. Interface fluxes are evaluated using an HLLC approximate Riemann solver. A ghost‐cell immersed boundary method is used to update flow information in the smallest cut cells and overcome the time step restriction that would otherwise apply. The model is validated for solitary wave reflection from a vertical wall, diffraction of a solitary wave by a truncated barrier, and solitary wave scattering and diffraction from a vertical circular cylinder. In all cases, the model gives satisfactory predictions in comparison with the published analytical solutions and experimental measurements. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Flexural gravity wave motion over poroelastic bed

Using Biot’s consolidation theory, effect of poroelastic bed on flexural gravity wave motion is analyzed in both the cases of single-layer and two-layer fluids. The model for the flexural gravity waves is developed using linear water wave theory and small amplitude structural response in finite water depth. The effects of permeability and shear modulus of poroelastic bed and time period on flexural gravity wave motion are studied by analyzing the dispersion relation, phase speed, plate deflection, interface elevation and pressure distribution along water depth. Various results for surface gravity waves are analyzed as special cases. The study reveals that bed permeability retards the hydrodynamic pressure distribution along the water depth significantly compared to shear modulus whilst, floating plate deflection decreases significantly with change in shear modulus compared to permeability of the poroelastic bed. The present study can be generalized to analyze various wave–structure interaction problems over poroelastic bed.     

Characterizing JONSWAP rogue waves and their statistics via inverse spectral data

Rogue waves in random sea states modeled by the JONSWAP power spectrum are high amplitude waves arising over non-uniform backgrounds that cannot be viewed as small amplitude modulations of Stokes waves. In the context of Nonlinear Schrödinger (NLS) models for waves in deep water, this poses the challenge of identifying appropriate analytical solutions for JONSWAP rogue waves, investigating possible mechanisms for their formation, and examining the validity of the NLS models in these more realistic settings. In this work we investigate JONSWAP rogue waves using the inverse spectral theory of the periodic NLS equation for moderate values of the period. For typical JONSWAP initial data, numerical experiments show that the developing sea state is well approximated by the first few dominant modes of the nonlinear spectrum and can be described in terms of a 2- or 3-phase periodic NLS solution. As for the case of uniform backgrounds, proximity to instabilities of the underlying 2-phase solution appears to be the main predictor of rogue wave occurrence, suggesting that the modulational instability of 2-phase solutions of the NLS is a main mechanism for rogue wave formation and that heteroclinic orbits of unstable 2-phase solutions are plausible models of JONSWAP rogue waves. To support this claim, we correlate the maximum wave strength as well as the higher statistical moments with elements of the nonlinear spectrum. The result is a diagnostic tool widely applicable to both model or field data for predicting the likelihood of rogue waves. Finally, we examine the validity of NLS models for JONSWAP data, and show that NLS solutions with JONSWAP initial data are described by non-Gaussian statistics, in agreement with the TOPEX field studies of sea surface height variability.     

Wave scattering by flexible porous vertical membrane barrier in a two-layer fluid

The scattering of water waves by a flexible porous membrane barrier in a two-layer fluid having a free surface is analysed in two dimensions. The membrane barrier is extended over the entire water depth in a two-layer fluid, each fluid being of finite depth. In the present analysis, linear wave theory and small amplitude membrane response are assumed. The porous membrane barrier is tensioned and pinned at both the free surface and the seabed. The associated mixed boundary value problem is reduced to a linear system of equations by utilizing a general orthogonality relation along with least-squares approximation method. Because of the flow discontinuity at the interface, the eigenfunctions involved have a discontinuity at the interface and the orthogonality relation used is a generalization of the classical one corresponding to a single-layer fluid. The reflection and transmission coefficients for the surface and internal modes, the free surface and interface elevations and the nondimensional membrane deflection are computed for various physical parameters like the nondimensional tension parameter, porous-effect parameter, fluid density ratio, ratio of water depths of the two fluids to analyse the efficiency of a porous membrane as a wave barrier in the two-layer fluid.     

促进其线性频散特征另一种形式的Bousinesq方程

Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程能够用于模拟表面重力波传播过程中的折射、绕射、反射以及浅化，非线性作用等现象．用不同垂直积分方法所得到的二维Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程形式具有不同的线性频散特征．采用两个不同的水深层的水平速度变量组合，推导出一个新形式的Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程．通过对其参数的设置可得到精确的线性频散解Ｐａｄｅ近似４阶精度．其适用范围已由原来的浅水，向深水拓进．相速误差小于２％，其拓展适用范围可达到０８个波长水深．应用所得到的新型Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程，采用有限差分法，对经典工况进行了数值模拟，其计算结果表明，计算值与物模实验值吻合较好．这说明本文新形式的Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程对变水深非线性效应所产生的能量频散有着较为精确的描述     

Fully dispersive dynamic models for surface water waves above varying bottom, Part 1: Model equations

In this paper we formulate relatively simple models to describe the propagation of coastal waves from deep parts in the ocean to shallow parts near the coast. The models have good dispersive properties that are based on smooth quasi-homogeneous interpolation of the exact dispersion above flat bottom. This dispersive quality is then maintained in the second order nonlinear terms of uni-directional equations as known from the AB-equation. A linear coupling is employed to obtain bi-directional propagation which includes (interactions with) reflected waves.The derivation of the models is consistent with the basic variational formulation of surface waves without rotation. A subsequent spatial discretization that takes this variational structure into account leads to efficient and accurate codes, as will be shown in Part 2.     

The numerical study of roll‐waves in inclined open channels and solitary wave run‐up

In this paper, we introduce a finite‐volume kinetic BGK scheme and its applications to the study of roll and solitary waves. The current scheme is based on the numerical solution of the gas‐kinetic Bhatnagar–Gross–Krook model in the flux evaluation across each cell interface. An intrinsic connection between the BGK model and time‐dependent, non‐linear, non‐homogeneous shallow‐water equations enables us to solve shallow‐water equations automatically with our kinetic scheme. The analytical solution, experimental measurements, and numerical calculations for problems associated with roll‐waves down an inclined open channel and solitary waves incident on a sloped beach are also presented. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Higher order Boussinesq-type equations for water waves on uneven bottom

Higher order Boussinesq-type equations for wave propagation over variable bathymetry were derived. The time dependent free surface boundary conditions were used to compute the change of the free surface in time domain. The free surface velocities and the bottom velocities were connected by the exact solution of the Laplace equation. Taking the velocities on half relative water depth as the fundamental unknowns, terms relating to the gradient of the water depth were retained in the inverse series expansion of the exact solution, with which the problem was closed. With enhancements of the finite order Taylor expansion for the velocity field, the application range of the present model was extended to the slope bottom which is not so mild. For linear properties, some validation computations of linear shoaling and Booij' s tests were carried out. The problems of wave-current interactions were also studied numerically to test the performance of the enhanced Boussinesq equations associated with the effect of currents. All these computational results confirm perfectly to the theoretical solution as well as other numerical solutions of the full potential problem available.     

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应用一维水沙耦合数学模型研究了可冲刷坡面上滚波的水动力学特性. 模型的基本控制方程 采用完整的、基于守恒定律的一维浅水动力学方程,运用能够捕捉激波和泥沙运动不连续性 的WAF TVD二阶数值格式离散控制方程. 通过复演定床滚波的运动特点,对模型进行了验证. 可冲刷坡面的滚波数值模拟结果表明,床面形态对滚波水动力学特性有显著的影响.