A fully non‐linear model for three‐dimensional overturning waves over an arbitrary bottom

An accurate three‐dimensional numerical model, applicable to strongly non‐linear waves, is proposed. The model solves fully non‐linear potential flow equations with a free surface using a higher‐order three‐dimensional boundary element method (BEM) and a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian time updating, based on second‐order explicit Taylor series expansions with adaptive time steps. The model is applicable to non‐linear wave transformations from deep to shallow water over complex bottom topography up to overturning and breaking. Arbitrary waves can be generated in the model, and reflective or absorbing boundary conditions specified on lateral boundaries. In the BEM, boundary geometry and field variables are represented by 16‐node cubic ‘sliding’ quadrilateral elements, providing local inter‐element continuity of the first and second derivatives. Accurate and efficient numerical integrations are developed for these elements. Discretized boundary conditions at intersections (corner/edges) between the free surface or the bottom and lateral boundaries are well‐posed in all cases of mixed boundary conditions. Higher‐order tangential derivatives, required for the time updating, are calculated in a local curvilinear co‐ordinate system, using 25‐node ‘sliding’ fourth‐order quadrilateral elements. Very high accuracy is achieved in the model for mass and energy conservation. No smoothing of the solution is required, but regridding to a higher resolution can be specified at any time over selected areas of the free surface. Applications are presented for the propagation of numerically exact solitary waves. Model properties of accuracy and convergence with a refined spatio‐temporal discretization are assessed by propagating such a wave over constant depth. The shoaling of solitary waves up to overturning is then calculated over a 1:15 plane slope, and results show good agreement with a two‐dimensional solution proposed earlier. Finally, three‐dimensional overturning waves are generated over a 1:15 sloping bottom having a ridge in the middle, thus focusing wave energy. The node regridding method is used to refine the discretization around the overturning wave. Convergence of the solution with grid size is also verified for this case. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A high‐order Petrov–Galerkin finite element method for the classical Boussinesq wave model

A high‐order Petrov–Galerkin finite element scheme is presented to solve the one‐dimensional depth‐integrated classical Boussinesq equations for weakly non‐linear and weakly dispersive waves. Finite elements are used both in the space and the time domains. The shape functions are bilinear in space–time, whereas the weighting functions are linear in space and quadratic in time, with C⁰‐continuity. Dispersion correction and a highly selective dissipation mechanism are introduced through additional streamline upwind terms in the weighting functions. An implicit, conditionally stable, one‐step predictor–corrector time integration scheme results. The accuracy and stability of the non‐linear discrete equations are investigated by means of a local Taylor series expansion. A linear spectral analysis is used for the full characterization of the predictor–corrector inner iterations. Based on the order of the analytical terms of the Boussinesq model and on the order of the numerical discretization, it is concluded that the scheme is fourth‐order accurate in terms of phase velocity. The dissipation term is third order only affecting the shortest wavelengths. A numerical convergence analysis showed a second‐order convergence rate in terms of both element size and time step. Four numerical experiments are addressed and their results are compared with analytical solutions or experimental data available in the literature: the propagation of a solitary wave, the oscillation of a flat bottom closed basin, the oscillation of a non‐flat bottom closed basin, and the propagation of a periodic wave over a submerged bar. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A finite element method for two‐dimensional water‐wave problems

In this paper, the authors treat the free‐surface waves generated by a moving disturbance with a constant speed in water of finite and constant depth. Specifically, the case when the disturbance is moving with the critical speed is investigated. The water is assumed inviscid and its motion irrotational. The surface tension is neglected. It is well‐known that the linear theory breaks down when a disturbance is moving with the critical speed. As a remedy to overcome the invalid linear theory, approximate non‐linear theories have been applied with success in the past, i.e. Boussinesq and Korteweg de Vries equations, for example. In the present paper, the authors describe a finite element method applied to the non‐linear water‐wave problems in two dimensions. The present numerical method solves the exact non‐linear formulation in the scope of potential theory without any additional assumptions on the magnitude of the disturbances. The present numerical results are compared with those obtained by other approximate non‐linear theories. Also presented are the discussions on the validity of the existing approximate theories applied to two types of the disturbances, i.e. the bottom bump and the pressure patch on the free‐surface at the critical speed. Copyright © 1999 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Simulation of non‐hydrostatic,density‐stratified flow in irregular domains

A numerical model has been developed for simulating density‐stratified flow in domains with irregular but simple topography. The model was designed for simulating strong interactions between internal gravity waves and topography, e.g. exchange flows in contracting channels, tidally or convectively driven flow over two‐dimensional sills or waves propagating onto a shoaling bed. The model is based on the non‐hydrostatic, Boussinesq equations of motion for a continuously stratified fluid in a rotating frame, subject to user‐configurable boundary conditions. An orthogonal boundary fitting co‐ordinate system is used for the numerical computations, which rely on a fourth‐order compact differentiation scheme, a third‐order explicit time stepping and a multi‐grid based pressure projection algorithm. The numerical techniques are described and a suite of validation studies are presented. The validation studies include a pointwise comparison of numerical simulations with both analytical solutions and laboratory measurements of non‐linear solitary wave propagation. Simulation results for flows lacking analytical or laboratory data are analysed a posteriori to demonstrate satisfaction of the potential energy balance. Computational results are compared with two‐layer hydraulic predictions in the case of exchange flow through a contracting channel. Finally, a simulation of circulation driven by spatially non‐uniform surface buoyancy flux in an irregular basin is discussed. Copyright © 2000 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A depth‐integrated non‐hydrostatic finite element model for wave propagation

This paper presents a two‐dimensional finite element model for simulating dynamic propagation of weakly dispersive waves. Shallow water equations including extra non‐hydrostatic pressure terms and a depth‐integrated vertical momentum equation are solved with linear distributions assumed in the vertical direction for the non‐hydrostatic pressure and the vertical velocity. The model is developed based on the platform of a finite element model, CCHE2D. A physically bounded upwind scheme for the advection term discretization is developed, and the quasi second‐order differential operators of this scheme result in no oscillation and little numerical diffusion. The depth‐integrated non‐hydrostatic wave model is solved semi‐implicitly: the provisional flow velocity is first implicitly solved using the shallow water equations; the non‐hydrostatic pressure, which is implicitly obtained by ensuring a divergence‐free velocity field, is used to correct the provisional velocity, and finally the depth‐integrated continuity equation is explicitly solved to satisfy global mass conservation. The developed wave model is verified by an analytical solution and validated by laboratory experiments, and the computed results show that the wave model can properly handle linear and nonlinear dispersive waves, wave shoaling, diffraction, refraction and focusing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

On uniformly accurate high‐order Boussinesq difference equations for water waves

A new accurate finite‐difference (AFD) numerical method is developed specifically for solving high‐order Boussinesq (HOB) equations. The method solves the water‐wave flow with much higher accuracy compared to the standard finite‐difference (SFD) method for the same computer resources. It is first developed for linear water waves and then for the nonlinear problem. It is presented for a horizontal bottom, but can be used for variable depth as well. The method can be developed for other equations as long as they use Padé approximation, for example extensions of the parabolic equation for acoustic wave problems. Finally, the results of the new method and the SFD method are compared with the accurate solution for nonlinear progressive waves over a horizontal bottom that is found using the stream function theory. The agreement of the AFD to the accurate solution is found to be excellent compared to the SFD solution. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A multi‐energy‐level lattice Boltzmann model for two‐dimensional wave equation

A lattice Boltzmann model for two‐dimensional wave equation is presented. In this model, we used higher‐order moment method, multi‐scale technique and Chapman–Enskog expansion, and multi‐energy‐level to obtain wave equation and energy conservation equation. As numerical examples, the interference and diffraction of wave are simulated. The numerical results show this model can be used to simulate two‐dimensional wave propagation. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Numerical simulation of fully nonlinear irregular wave tank in three dimension

A fully nonlinear irregular wave tank has been developed using a three‐dimensional higher‐order boundary element method (HOBEM) in the time domain. The Laplace equation is solved at each time step by an integral equation method. Based on image theory, a new Green function is applied in the whole fluid domain so that only the incident surface and free surface are discretized for the integral equation. The fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions are integrated with time to update the wave profile and boundary values on it by a semi‐mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian time marching scheme. The incident waves are generated by feeding analytic forms on the input boundary and a ramp function is introduced at the start of simulation to avoid the initial transient disturbance. The outgoing waves are sufficiently dissipated by using a spatially varying artificial damping on the free surface before they reach the downstream boundary. Numerous numerical simulations of linear and nonlinear waves are performed and the simulated results are compared with the theoretical input waves. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Development of a generalized multi‐layer model for 3‐D simulation of free surface flows

A mathematical model was developed for three‐dimensional (3‐D) simulation of free surface flows. In this model, the flow depth is divided into a number of layers and shallow water equations are integrated in each layer to derive the hydrodynamic equations. To give a general form to this model, each layer is assumed to be non‐horizontal with varying thickness in the flow domain. A non‐orthogonal curvilinear coordinate system is employed in the model, to allow for flexibility in dealing with the irregular geometry of natural watercourses. Due to the similarity in governing equations, two‐dimensional (2‐D) depth averaged programs can be developed into a multi‐layer model. The development for a depth averaged program and its numerical scheme is described in this paper. Experimental data and semi‐analytical solutions are used to evaluate the performance of the model. Three different cases of open channel flow are tested: 1‐flow in a straight open channel, 2‐the flow development region in a channel, and 3‐flow in a meandering channel. It is shown that the model has the capability to predict velocity distribution and secondary flows in complex 3‐D flow conditions. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Boussinesq cut‐cell model for non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures

Boussinesq models describe the phase‐resolved hydrodynamics of unbroken waves and wave‐induced currents in shallow coastal waters. Many enhanced versions of the Boussinesq equations are available in the literature, aiming to improve the representation of linear dispersion and non‐linearity. This paper describes the numerical solution of the extended Boussinesq equations derived by Madsen and Sørensen (Coastal Eng. 1992; 15 :371–388) on Cartesian cut‐cell grids, the aim being to model non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures. An explicit second‐order MUSCL‐Hancock Godunov‐type finite volume scheme is used to solve the non‐linear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq‐type equations. Interface fluxes are evaluated using an HLLC approximate Riemann solver. A ghost‐cell immersed boundary method is used to update flow information in the smallest cut cells and overcome the time step restriction that would otherwise apply. The model is validated for solitary wave reflection from a vertical wall, diffraction of a solitary wave by a truncated barrier, and solitary wave scattering and diffraction from a vertical circular cylinder. In all cases, the model gives satisfactory predictions in comparison with the published analytical solutions and experimental measurements. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A horizontally curvilinear non‐hydrostatic model for simulating nonlinear wave motion in curved boundaries

A horizontally curvilinear non‐hydrostatic free surface model that embeds the second‐order projection method, the so‐called θ scheme, in fractional time stepping is developed to simulate nonlinear wave motion in curved boundaries. The model solves the unsteady, Navier–Stokes equations in a three‐dimensional curvilinear domain by incorporating the kinematic free surface boundary condition with a top‐layer boundary condition, which has been developed to improve the numerical accuracy and efficiency of the non‐hydrostatic model in the standard staggered grid layout. The second‐order Adams–Bashforth scheme with the third‐order spatial upwind method is implemented in discretizing advection terms. Numerical accuracy in terms of nonlinear phase speed and amplitude is verified against the nonlinear Stokes wave theory over varying wave steepness in a two‐dimensional numerical wave tank. The model is then applied to investigate the nonlinear wave characteristics in the presence of dispersion caused by reflection and diffraction in a semicircular channel. The model results agree quantitatively with superimposed analytical solutions. Finally, the model is applied to simulate nonlinear wave run‐ups caused by wave‐body interaction around a bottom‐mounted cylinder. The numerical results exhibit good agreement with experimental data and the second‐order diffraction theory. Overall, it is shown that the developed model, with only three vertical layers, is capable of accurately simulating nonlinear waves interacting within curved boundaries. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A parametric finite‐difference method for shallow sea waves

This paper presents a parametric finite‐difference scheme concerning the numerical solution of the one‐dimensional Boussinesq‐type set of equations, as they were introduced by Peregrine (J. Fluid Mech. 1967; 27 (4)) in the case of waves relatively long with small amplitudes in water of varying depth. The proposed method, which can be considered as a generalization of the Crank‐Nickolson method, aims to investigate alternative approaches in order to improve the accuracy of analogous methods known from bibliography. The resulting linear finite‐difference scheme, which is analysed for stability using the Fourier method, has been applied successfully to a problem used by Beji and Battjes (Coastal Eng. 1994; 23 : 1–16), giving numerical results which are in good agreement with the corresponding results given by MIKE 21 BW (User Guide. In: MIKE 21, Wave Modelling, User Guide. 2002; 271–392) developed by DHI Software. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A higher‐order unsplit 2D direct Eulerian finite volume method for two‐material compressible flows based on the MOOD paradigms

A higher‐order unsplit multi‐dimensional discretization of the diffuse interface model for two‐material compressible flows proposed by R. Saurel, F. Petitpas and R. A. Berry in 2009 is developed. The proposed higher‐order method is based on the concepts of the Multidimensional Optimal Order Detection (MOOD) method introduced in three recent papers for single‐material flows. The first‐order unsplit multi‐dimensional Finite Volume discretization presented by SPB serves as foundation for the development of the higher‐order unlimited schemes. Specific detection criteria along with a novel decrementing algorithm for the MOOD method are designed in order to deal with the complexity of multi‐material flows. Numerically, we compare errors and computational times on several 1D problems (stringent shock tube and cavitation problems) computed on 2D meshes with the second‐ and fourth‐order MOOD methods using a classical MUSCL method as reference. Several simulations of a 2D shocked R22 bubble in the air are also presented on Cartesian and unstructured meshes with the second‐ and fourth‐order MOOD methods, and qualitative comparisons confirm the conclusions obtained with 1D problems. These numerical results demonstrate the robustness of the MOOD approach and the interest of using more than second‐order methods even for locally singular solutions of complex physics models. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Depth‐integrated,non‐hydrostatic model with grid nesting for tsunami generation,propagation, and run‐up

Tsunamis generated by earthquakes involve physical processes of different temporal and spatial scales that extend across the ocean to the shore. This paper presents a shock‐capturing dispersive wave model in the spherical coordinate system for basin‐wide evolution and coastal run‐up of tsunamis and discusses the implementation of a two‐way grid‐nesting scheme to describe the wave dynamics at resolution compatible to the physical processes. The depth‐integrated model describes dispersive waves through the non‐hydrostatic pressure and vertical velocity, which also account for tsunami generation from dynamic seafloor deformation. The semi‐implicit, finite difference model captures flow discontinuities associated with bores or hydraulic jumps through the momentum‐conserved advection scheme with an upwind flux approximation. The two‐way grid‐nesting scheme utilizes the Dirichlet condition of the non‐hydrostatic pressure and both the horizontal velocity and surface elevation at the inter‐grid boundary to ensure propagation of dispersive waves and discontinuities across computational grids of different resolution. The inter‐grid boundary can adapt to bathymetric features to model nearshore wave transformation processes at optimal resolution and computational efficiency. A coordinate transformation enables application of the model to small geographic regions or laboratory experiments with a Cartesian grid. A depth‐dependent Gaussian function smoothes localized bottom features in relation to the water depth while retaining the bathymetry important for modeling of tsunami transformation and run‐up. Numerical experiments of solitary wave propagation and N‐wave run‐up verify the implementation of the grid‐nesting scheme. The 2009 Samoa Tsunami provides a case study to confirm the validity and effectiveness of the modeling approach for tsunami research and impact assessment. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Hybrid finite‐volume finite‐difference scheme for the solution of Boussinesq equations

A hybrid scheme composed of finite‐volume and finite‐difference methods is introduced for the solution of the Boussinesq equations. While the finite‐volume method with a Riemann solver is applied to the conservative part of the equations, the higher‐order Boussinesq terms are discretized using the finite‐difference scheme. Fourth‐order accuracy in space for the finite‐volume solution is achieved using the MUSCL‐TVD scheme. Within this, four limiters have been tested, of which van‐Leer limiter is found to be the most suitable. The Adams–Basforth third‐order predictor and Adams–Moulton fourth‐order corrector methods are used to obtain fourth‐order accuracy in time. A recently introduced surface gradient technique is employed for the treatment of the bottom slope. A new model ‘HYWAVE’, based on this hybrid solution, has been applied to a number of wave propagation examples, most of which are taken from previous studies. Examples include sinusoidal waves and bi‐chromatic wave propagation in deep water, sinusoidal wave propagation in shallow water and sinusoidal wave propagation from deep to shallow water demonstrating the linear shoaling properties of the model. Finally, sinusoidal wave propagation over a bar is simulated. The results are in good agreement with the theoretical expectations and published experimental results. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

High‐order compact scheme for Boussinesq equations: implementation and numerical boundary condition issue

Application of the three‐point fourth‐order compact scheme to spatial differencing of the vorticity‐stream function‐density formulation of the two‐dimensional incompressible Boussinesq equations is presented. The details for the derivation of difference relations at boundaries to generate accurate and stable solutions are also given. To assess the numerical accuracy, two linear prototype test problems with known exact solution are used. The two‐dimensional planar and cylindrical lock‐exchange flow configurations are used to conduct the numerical experiments for the Boussinesq equations. Quantitative measures for the two linear prototype test problems and comparison of the results of this work with the published results for the planar lock‐exchange flow indicates the validity and accuracy of the three‐point fourth‐order compact scheme for numerical solution of two‐dimensional incompressible Boussinesq equations. In addition, the study of using different high‐order numerical boundary conditions for the implementation of the no‐penetration boundary condition for the density at no‐slip walls is considered. It is shown that the numerical solution is sensitive to the choice of difference relation for the density at boundaries and using an inappropriate difference relation leads to spurious numerical solution. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Depth‐integrated nonhydrostatic free‐surface flow modeling using weighted‐averaged equations

In this study, a depth‐integrated nonhydrostatic flow model is developed using the method of weighted residuals. Using a unit weighting function, depth‐integrated Reynolds‐averaged Navier‐Stokes equations are obtained. Prescribing polynomial variations for the field variables in the vertical direction, a set of perturbation parameters remains undetermined. The model is closed generating a set of weighted‐averaged equations using a suitable weighting function. The resulting depth‐integrated nonhydrostatic model is solved with a semi‐implicit finite‐volume finite‐difference scheme. The explicit part of the model is a Godunov‐type finite‐volume scheme that uses the Harten‐Lax‐van Leer‐contact wave approximate Riemann solver to determine the nonhydrostatic depth‐averaged velocity field. The implicit part of the model is solved using a Newton‐Raphson algorithm to incorporate the effects of the pressure field in the solution. The model is applied with good results to a set of problems of coastal and river engineering, including steady flow over fixed bedforms, solitary wave propagation, solitary wave run‐up, linear frequency dispersion, propagation of sinusoidal waves over a submerged bar, and dam‐break flood waves.     

Fourth‐order accurate compact‐difference discretization method for Helmholtz and incompressible Navier–Stokes equations

A fourth‐order accurate solution method for the three‐dimensional Helmholtz equations is described that is based on a compact finite‐difference stencil for the Laplace operator. Similar discretization methods for the Poisson equation have been presented by various researchers for Dirichlet boundary conditions. Here, the complicated issue of imposing Neumann boundary conditions is described in detail. The method is then applied to model Helmholtz problems to verify the accuracy of the discretization method. The implementation of the solution method is also described. The Helmholtz solver is used as the basis for a fourth‐order accurate solver for the incompressible Navier–Stokes equations. Numerical results obtained with this Navier–Stokes solver for the temporal evolution of a three‐dimensional instability in a counter‐rotating vortex pair are discussed. The time‐accurate Navier–Stokes simulations show the resolving properties of the developed discretization method and the correct prediction of the initial growth rate of the three‐dimensional instability in the vortex pair. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The advantages of using high‐order finite differences schemes in laminar–turbulent transition studies

This paper presents various finite difference schemes and compare their ability to simulate instability waves in a given flow field. The governing equations for two‐dimensional, incompressible flows were solved in vorticity–velocity formulation. Four different space discretization schemes were tested, namely, a second‐order central differences, a fourth‐order central differences, a fourth‐order compact scheme and a sixth‐order compact scheme. A classic fourth‐order Runge–Kutta scheme was used in time. The influence of grid refinement in the streamwise and wall normal directions were evaluated. The results were compared with linear stability theory for the evolution of small‐amplitude Tollmien–Schlichting waves in a plane Poiseuille flow. Both the amplification rate and the wavenumber were considered as verification parameters, showing the degree of dissipation and dispersion introduced by the different numerical schemes. The results confirmed that high‐order schemes are necessary for studying hydrodynamic instability problems by direct numerical simulation. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Internal waves in a two‐layer system using fully nonlinear internal‐wave equations

In order to understand the nonlinear effect in a two‐layer system, fully nonlinear strongly dispersive internal‐wave equations, based on a variational principle, were proposed in this study. A simple iteration method was used to solve the internal‐wave equations in order to solve the equations stably. The applicability of the proposed numerical computation scheme was confirmed to agree with linear dispersion relation theoretically obtained from variational principle. The proposed computational scheme was also shown to reproduce internal waves including higher‐order nonlinear effect from the analysis of internal solitary waves in a two‐layer system. Furthermore, for the second‐order numerical analysis, the balance of nonlinearity and dispersion was found to be similar to the balance assumed in the KdV theory and the Boussinesq‐type equations. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.