Natural Ingredients Common in the Trás-os-Montes Region (Portugal) for Use in the Cosmetic Industry: A Review about Chemical Composition and Antigenotoxic Properties

The natural cosmetics market has grown since consumers became aware of the concept of natural-based ingredients. A significant number of cosmetics have an ecological impact on the environment and carry noxious and chemically potent substances. Thus, the use of natural and organic cosmetics becomes increasingly important since it is clear that topical treatment with cosmeceuticals can help improve skin rejuvenation. A substantial investigation into the benefits that fruits and plants can bring to health is required. Studies have shown that antigenotoxic properties are linked to anti-aging properties. Several studies have shown potential antigenotoxicity in natural ingredients such as Almonds (Prunus dulcis), Elderberry (Sambucus nigra), Olives (Olea europaea), and Grapes (Vitis vinifera). This review presents an overview of research conducted on these natural ingredients, the most common in the Northeast of Portugal. This region of Portugal possesses the most organic farmers, and ingredients are easily obtained. The Northeast of Portugal also has climatic, topographic, and pedological differences that contribute to agricultural diversity.     

Seaweed Polysaccharide Based Products and Materials: An Assessment on Their Production from a Sustainability Point of View

Among the various natural polymers, polysaccharides are one of the oldest biopolymers present on the Earth. They play a very crucial role in the survival of both animals and plants. Due to the presence of hydroxyl functional groups in most of the polysaccharides, it is easy to prepare their chemical derivatives. Several polysaccharide derivatives are widely used in a number of industrial applications. The polysaccharides such as cellulose, starch, chitosan, etc., have several applications but due to some distinguished characteristic properties, seaweed polysaccharides are preferred in a number of applications. This review covers published literature on the seaweed polysaccharides, their origin, and extraction from seaweeds, application, and chemical modification. Derivatization of the polysaccharides to impart new functionalities by chemical modification such as esterification, amidation, amination, C-N bond formation, sulphation, acetylation, phosphorylation, and graft copolymerization is discussed. The suitability of extraction of seaweed polysaccharides such as agar, carrageenan, and alginate using ionic solvent systems from a sustainability point of view and future prospects for efficient extraction and functionalization of seaweed polysaccharides is also included in this review article.     

Modified Kappa‐Carrageenan as a Heterogeneous Green Catalyst for the Synthesis of Nitrogen and Sulfur‐Containing Indenone‐Fused Heterocyclic Compounds

The three component reaction of aromatic aldehydes and 1,3‐indandione in the presence of 4‐amino‐6‐hydroxy‐2‐mercaptopyrimidine is catalyzed by active kappa‐carrageenan under mild conditions to afford the desired products in clean reaction profiles. The kappa carrageenan sources are bioavailable and are extracted from Chondrus crispus, a red seaweed. The catalyst could be prepared by mixing of kappa‐carrageenan in a mechanical mortar for 5 min in a simple step. Good yields with superior atom economy, green and recyclable catalyst with natural source, and simple work‐up are the main advantages of the method for the synthesis of dihydropyridopyrimidines.     

Valorisation to biogas of macroalgal waste streams: a circular approach to bioproducts and bioenergy in Ireland

Seaweeds (macroalgae) have been recently attracting more and more interest as a third generation feedstock for bioenergy and biofuels. However, several barriers impede the deployment of competitive seaweed-based energy. The high cost associated to seaweed farming and harvesting, as well as their seasonal availability and biochemical composition currently make macroalgae exploitation too expensive for energy production only. Recent studies have indicated a possible solution to aforementioned challenges may lay in seaweed integrated biorefinery, in which a bioenergy and/or biofuel production step ends an extractions cascade of high-value bioproducts. This results in the double benefit of producing renewable energy while adopting a zero waste approach, as fostered by recent EU societal challenges within the context of the Circular Economy development. This study investigates the biogas potential of residues from six indigenous Irish seaweed species while discussing related issues experienced during fermentation. It was found that Laminaria and Fucus spp. are the most promising seaweed species for biogas production following biorefinery extractions producing 187–195 mL CH₄ gVS^?1 and about 100 mL CH₄ gVS^?1 , respectively, exhibiting overall actual yields close to raw un-extracted seaweed.     

Current knowledge on the extraction,purification, identification,and validation of bioactive peptides from seaweed

Seaweed (macroalgae) is considered as a sustainable bioresource rich in high-quality nutrients such as protein. Seaweed protein can be used as an alternative to other protein sources. Furthermore, these proteins are natural reservoirs of bioactive peptides (BAPs) associated with various health benefits such as antioxidant, antihypertensive, and antidiabetic activities. However, seaweed-derived BAPs remain underexploited due to challenges that arise during protein extraction from algal biomass. Coupled with this, limited proteomic information exists regarding certain seaweed species. This review highlights the current state of the art of seaweed protein extraction techniques, e.g., liquid, ultrasound, microwave, pulsed electric field, and high hydrostatic pressure assisted extraction. The review also focuses on the enzymatic hydrolysis of seaweed proteins and characterization of the resultant hydrolysates/peptides using electrophoretic and chromatographic techniques. This includes reference to methods employed for separation, fractionation, and purification of seaweed BAPs, as well as the methodologies used for identification, e.g., analysis by mass spectrometry. Furthermore, a bioinformatics or in silico approach to aid discovery of seaweed BAPs is discussed herein. Based on the information available to date, it is suggested that further research is required in this area for the development of seaweed BAPs for nutraceutical applications.     

Development of a natural ingredient – Natural preservative: A case study

Lately, the cosmetic and personal care market has been more and more driven toward natural ingredients by the rising consumers' awareness about personal health and safety and their will for safer cosmetics free of harmful chemicals. Preservatives are no exception to the rule: evidence or suspicion of the toxicity of certain synthetic preservatives that have been around for decades pushed the cosmetic industry forward to seek for natural alternatives, as the selection of natural preservatives already available is quite limited. Sourcing active metabolites and developing new natural ingredients are long-term procedures that are thoroughly described in the present paper, via the example of the design of a natural preservative based on the Santolina chamaecyparissus extract, and of the assessments of its preservative effectiveness.     

Biodiversity and application prospects of fungal endophytes in the agarwood-producing genera,Aquilaria and Gyrinops (Thymelaeaceae): A review

Agarwood is originated from the resinous part of Aquilaria and Gyrinops plants and has been a precious biomaterial for applications in traditional medicine, perfumery, cosmetics, and religious purposes all over the world. In the wild, the formation of agarwood is related to the defense mechanism of the tree in response to physical damage that allows further microbial infestation into its wood, while having the whole tree covered with agarwood would take up a long time, and it rarely happens. For Aquilaria and Gyrinops, the presence of endophytes is mainly found derived from the tree. The isolated endophytes could be important sources of natural products, while some could contribute to the formation of agarwood in the tree, which is safe for the environment and human health. This review summarized the biodiversity of fungal endophytes recorded in Aquilaria and Gyrinops and their potential effects on host trees. Till now, 67 endophytic genera have been isolated from Aquilaria and Gyrinops, and 18 ones were found responsible for the promotion of agarwood formation. Additionally, 92 compounds have been reported to be produced by the agarwood endophytes, and 52 ones displayed biological activities, most of which have anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, and anti-cancer activities. Nevertheless, fungal endophytes are promising agents that deserved to be further studied and scaled up to a commercial level for the production of agarwood oil, but the role of endophytes in the agarwood host trees needs to be furtherly investigated in future studies.     

Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics

Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.     

Plant Flavonoids: Chemical Characteristics and Biological Activity

In recent years, more attention has been paid to natural sources of antioxidants. Flavonoids are natural substances synthesized in several parts of plants that exhibit a high antioxidant capacity. They are a large family, presenting several classes based on their basic structure. Flavonoids have the ability to control the accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) via scavenger ROS when they are formed. Therefore, these antioxidant compounds have an important role in plant stress tolerance and a high relevance in human health, mainly due to their anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. In addition, flavonoids have several applications in the food industry as preservatives, pigments, and antioxidants, as well as in other industries such as cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. However, flavonoids application for industrial purposes implies extraction processes with high purity and quality. Several methodologies have been developed aimed at increasing flavonoid extraction yield and being environmentally friendly. This review presents the most abundant natural flavonoids, their structure and chemical characteristics, extraction methods, and biological activity.     

Nettle (Urtica dioica L.) as a source of antioxidant and anti-aging phytochemicals for cosmetic applications

Nettle (Urtica dioica L.) is a herbaceous perennial that has been used for centuries in folk medicine. More recently, nettle extracts have also been used in cosmetics because of the many benefits of their topical application for skin health. Their potential anti-aging action is of particular interest and is primarily ascribed to their antioxidant capacity. Here, using an experimental design approach and a clustering analysis, we linked the phytochemical composition of nettle extracts to their biological activities. This approach confirmed the antioxidant capacity of nettle extracts as well as providing the first evidence of another mechanism for their anti-aging potential involving the inhibition of enzyme activities, such as elastase and collagenase. We attributed these inhibitory effects to ursolic acid and quercetin present in the nettle extracts. Our results also demonstrated the possibility of extracting ursolic acid, quercetin and other phenolic compounds differentially to obtain an extract with a strong antioxidant capacity and anti-aging activities toward both elastase and collagenase. This could be of particular interest for cosmetic applications of nettle extracts.     

Gastroprotective Effects of Biological Macromolecule: Polysaccharides

The large molecular weight of the macromolecules sets them apart from all other components. This may range from 10 000 to over a million. While the molecular weight of other plant metabolites is seldom beyond 1000. Chemically, macromolecules are made up of long chains and little “building pieces,” which are joined covalently in a variety of ways. Biological macromolecules are large, naturally occurring cellular building blocks that play a range of crucial roles in the development and existence of living organisms. Biomacromolecules are essential in the biomedical field and other related professions. They feature a variety of beneficial properties, including excellent biodegradability, suitable mechanical strength, enhanced bioavailability, etc. They also have significant biocompatibility. They display a variety of biological characteristics, such as antimalignant, antidiabetic, antibacterial, antioxidant, and immunomodulatory. The use of essential carbohydrates including alginate, chitosan, pectin, starches, carrageenan, fucoidan, etc. is common in commercial applications. Natural substance-based pharmacotherapy is now considered to be a highly promising future alternative to conventional medicine. Along with proteins and polynucleotides, polysaccharide is a vital biomacromolecule that has a crucial function in the growth and expansion of living things. A crucial element of higher plants, cell membranes of animal, and cell walls of microbes is polysaccharide. It is intimately tied to physiological processes as well. The importance of polysaccharides as a significant class of bioactive natural compounds has received more attention recently. Numerous studies have shown that natural polysaccharides contain bioactivities, which have led to the use of polysaccharides in the treatment of illness. The many parts of the research findings on the bioactivities of polysaccharides in gastro-protection are included in this paper.     

Extract from the Marine Seaweed Padina pavonica Protects Mitochondrial Biomembranes from Damage by Amyloidogenic Peptides

The identification of compounds which protect the double-membrane of mitochondrial organelles from disruption by toxic confomers of amyloid proteins may offer a therapeutic strategy to combat human neurodegenerative diseases. Here, we exploited an extract from the marine brown seaweed Padina pavonica (PPE) as a vital source of natural bioactive compounds to protect mitochondrial membranes against insult by oligomeric aggregates of the amyloidogenic proteins amyloid-β (Aβ), α-synuclein (α-syn) and tau, which are currently considered to be major targets for drug discovery in Alzheimer’s disease (AD) and Parkinson’s disease (PD). We show that PPE manifested a significant inhibitory effect against swelling of isolated mitochondria exposed to the amyloid oligomers, and attenuated the release of cytochrome c from the mitochondria. Using cardiolipin-enriched synthetic lipid membranes, we also show that dye leakage from fluorophore-loaded vesicles and formation of channel-like pores in planar bilayer membranes are largely prevented by incubating the oligomeric aggregates with PPE. Lastly, we demonstrate that PPE curtails the ability of Aβ42 and α-syn monomers to self-assemble into larger β-aggregate structures, as well as potently disrupts their respective amyloid fibrils. In conclusion, the mito-protective and anti-aggregator biological activities of Padina pavonica extract may be of therapeutic value in neurodegenerative proteinopathies, such as AD and PD.     

Milk Proteins—Their Biological Activities and Use in Cosmetics and Dermatology

Milk and colostrum have high biological potential, and due to their natural origin and non-toxicity, they have many uses in cosmetics and dermatology. Research is ongoing on their potential application in other fields of medicine, but there are still few results; most of the published ones are included in this review. These natural products are especially rich in proteins, such as casein, β-lactoglobulin, α-lactalbumin, lactoferrin, immunoglobulins, lactoperoxidase, lysozyme, and growth factors, and possess various antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, anticancer, antioxidant, immunomodulatory properties, etc. This review describes the physico-chemical properties of milk and colostrum proteins and the natural functions they perform in the body and compares their composition between animal species (cows, goats, and sheep). The milk- and colostrum-based products can be used in dietary supplementation and for performing immunomodulatory functions; they can enhance the effects of certain drugs and can have a lethal effect on pathogenic microorganisms. Milk products are widely used in the treatment of dermatological diseases for promoting the healing of chronic wounds, hastening tissue regeneration, and the treatment of acne vulgaris or plaque psoriasis. They are also increasingly regarded as active ingredients that can improve the condition of the skin by reducing the number of acne lesions and blackheads, regulating sebum secretion, ameliorating inflammatory changes as well as bestowing a range of moisturizing, protective, toning, smoothing, anti-irritation, whitening, soothing, and antiaging effects.     

The brasilenols,rearranged sesquiterpene alcohols isolated from the marine opisthobranch aplysia brasiliana

Two nonisoprenoid sesquiterpene alcohols, brasilenol and epibrasilenol, have been isolated, along with brasilenol acetate, from the digestive glands of the marine opisthobranch Aplysia brasiliana. The structures of these unusual sesquiterpenoids were determined by extensive spectral and chemical analysis and by their mutual conversion to the corresponding α,β-unsaturated ketone, brasilenone. The brasilenols are likely to have a dietary origin, since these compounds have also been observed as natural products of the red seaweed Laurencia obtusa.     

活性天然产物和结构多样性类天然产物的合成

天然产物骨架的复杂性和丰富的官能团化赋予了天然产物类化合物独有的生物学活性,因此天然产物作为药物研究的先导化合物有其无法替代的独特性质,比如紫杉醇、红霉素和利福霉素帮助科学家们理解重要的生物过程。以往化学家对天然产物独有情钟,但仅仅以合成天然产物本身为最终目的。今天,化学家们开始利用传统的合成方法来制备结构多样性的类天然产物化合物。这种利用合成手段制备的小分子化合物在生物学的基础研究和药物研究中将起到关键的作用。     

Development and validation of an ELISA kit for the detection of ricin toxins from biological specimens and environmental samples

Ricin is a toxin that can be easily extracted from seeds of Ricinus communis plants. Ricin is considered to be a major bio-threat as it can be freely and easily acquired in large quantities. A deliberate release of such toxin in civilian populations would very likely overwhelm existing public health systems, resulting in public fear and social unrest. There is currently no commercially available or FDA-approved prophylaxis such as vaccines, or therapeutic antitoxins or antidotes, available for ricin intoxication. Patient treatment is typically supportive care based on symptoms, often designed to reinforce the body’s natural response. This paper describes the development and validation of a robust ELISA test kit, which can be used to screen for ricin in biological specimens such as whole blood and faeces. Faecal specimens are shown in this study to have better diagnostic sensitivity and a wider diagnostic window compared to whole blood. From these results, it is concluded that faeces is the most suitable clinical specimen for diagnosis of ricin poisoning via the oral route. The ELISA test kit can also detect ricin in environmental samples. An advantage of this ELISA kit over other commercial off-the-shelf (COTS) detection kits currently on the market that are developed to screen environmental samples only is its ability to diagnose ricin poisoning from clinical specimens as well as detect ricin from environmental samples.     

An Exploration of Seaweed Polysaccharides Stimulating Denitrifying Bacteria for Safer Nitrate Removal

Excessive use of nitrogen fertilizer in intensively managed agriculture has resulted in abundant accumulation of nitrate in soil, which limits agriculture sustainability. How to reduce nitrate content is the key to alleviate secondary soil salinization. However, the microorganisms used in soil remediation cause some problems such as weak efficiency and short survival time. In this study, seaweed polysaccharides were used as stimulant to promote the rapid growth and safer nitrate removal of denitrifying bacteria. Firstly, the growth rate and NO₃⁻-N removal capacity of three kinds of denitrifying bacteria, Bacillus subtilis (BS), Pseudomonas stutzeri (PS) and Pseudomonas putida (PP), were compared. The results showed that Bacillus subtilis (BS) had a faster growth rate and stronger nitrate removal ability. We then studied the effects of Enteromorpha linza polysaccharides (EP), carrageenan (CA), and sodium alginate (AL) on growth and denitrification performance of Bacillus subtilis (BS). The results showed that seaweed polysaccharides obviously promoted the growth of Bacillus subtilis (BS), and accelerated the reduction of NO₃⁻-N. More importantly, the increased NH₄⁺-N content could avoid excessive loss of nitrogen, and less NO₂⁻-N accumulation could avoid toxic effects on plants. This new strategy of using denitrifying bacteria for safely remediating secondary soil salinization has a great significance.     

Biochemical and Anti-proliferative activities of seven abundant tropical red seaweeds confirm nutraceutical potential of Grateloupia indica

Seaweeds are being used as food items in Asian countries from ancient times. Seaweeds mainly grow in intertidal zone and survive extreme environmental conditions and thus have developed metabolites, which help them survive in such conditions. Red seaweeds have proven to be rich in compounds, which are antioxidant and having many other health benefits. In this study, seven most abundantly grown red seaweeds, Gracilaria corticata (GC), Grateloupia indica (GI), Kappaphycus alvarezii (KA), Solieria robusta (SR), Amphiroa anceps (AA), Halymenia porphyriformis (HP), and Sarconema scinaioides (SS) were collected from Saurashtra coast of Arabian Sea. Harvested seaweeds were subjected to metabolite profiling, flavonoid and phenolic content analysis, different biological activities including radical scavenging, antioxidant, reducing and proliferation inhibition. Overall, GI was found to contain high contents (flavonoid and phenolic), biological activities and proliferation inhibition. Study confirms nutraceutical potential of red seaweed Grateloupia indica to be explored further for the bioactive compound or to be used as functional food.     

Synthesis of silver nanoparticles via green method using ultrasound irradiation in seaweed <Emphasis Type="Italic">Kappaphycus alvarezii</Emphasis> media

Green methods are a safer alternative to natural chemical and physical methods for the synthesis of silver nanoparticles (Ag-NPs), due to their being environmentally friendly and cost effective. This study offers a new green approach using ultrasound irradiation as the reducing agent and seaweed Kappaphycus alvarezii (K. alvarezii) as the natural bio-media. The seaweed K. alvarezii/Ag-NPs was characterised by ultraviolet–visible (UV–vis), X-ray diffraction (XRD), transmission electron microscopy (TEM), scanning electron microscope with energy dispersive X-ray (FESEM-EDX), zeta potential, and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) studies. UV–vis shows that surface plasmon resonance (SPR) arises from this solution due to the combined oscillations from the nanoparticles. The XRD study indicates the crystalline nature of the Ag-NPs. From the TEM images, the Ag-NPs are almost spherical with an average diameter of 11.78 nm. The FTIR spectrum provides adequate evidence of phytochemicals stabilising the nanoparticles. Synthesised Ag-NPs were successfully obtained using this green method.     

Recent Advances and Applications of Plant-Based Bioactive Saponins in Colloidal Multiphase Food Systems

The naturally occurring saponins exhibit remarkable interfacial activity and also possess many biological activities linking to human health benefits, which make them particularly attractive as bifunctional building blocks for formulation of colloidal multiphase food systems. This review focuses on two commonly used food-grade saponins, Quillaja saponins (QS) and glycyrrhizic acid (GA), with the aim of clarifying the relationship between the structural features of saponin molecules and their subsequent self-assembly and interfacial properties. The recent applications of these two saponins in various colloidal multiphase systems, including liquid emulsions, gel emulsions, aqueous foams and complex emulsion foams, are then discussed. A particular emphasis is on the unique use of GA and GA nanofibrils as sole stabilizers for fabricating various multiphase food systems with many advanced qualities including simplicity, ultrastability, stimulability, structural viscoelasticity and processability. These natural saponin and saponin-based colloids are expected to be used as sustainable, plant-based ingredients for designing future foods, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.