Modulation instability of Stokes wave → freak wave |
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| Authors: | A. I. Dyachenko V. E. Zakharov |
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| Affiliation: | (1) Landau Institute for Theoretical Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences, Moscow, 117940, Russia;(2) Department of Mathematics, University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 857201, USA |
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| Abstract: | Formation of waves of large amplitude (freak waves, killer waves) at the surface of the ocean is studied numerically. We have observed that freak waves have the same ratio of the wave height to the wave length as limiting Stokes waves. When a freak wave reaches this limiting state, it breaks. The physical mechanism of freak wave formation is discussed. |
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