Influence of Cyclodextrin Complexation on the in vitro Human Skin Penetration and Retention of the Sunscreen Agent, Oxybenzone

The objective of this study was to investigate the influence of cyclodextrins on the cutaneous availability of the sunscreen oxybenzone. The interaction between oxybenzone and hydrophilic α-, β- and γ-cyclodextrin derivatives was studied in water by phase-solubility analysis. Among the available cyclodextrins, hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD) and especially sulfobutylether-β-cyclodextrin (SBE-β-CD) had the greatest solubilizing activity. Ethanol–water solutions containing oxybenzone free or complexed with HP-β-CD or SBE-β-CD were applied to human skin in Franz diffusion cells and the amount of sunscreen permeated into the different cutaneous compartments was determined by HPLC. As much as 20.5% of the oxybenzone applied dose diffused within the skin tissue after 6 h application. Between 39.4% and 54.9% of the penetrated UV filter was localized in the stratum corneum, with no significant difference between uncomplexed oxybenzone or its complex with HP-β-CD. Conversely, the amount retained in the stratum corneum was markedly decreased (ca. 50%) by complexation with SBE-β-CD. Considerable quantities of oxybenzone accumulated into the viable epidermis (5.7% of the applied dose) and dermis (6.2% of the applied dose) from the preparation containing the free UV filter. The sunscreen penetration to the deeper living layers of the skin was remarkably lower (1.0% and 2.0% of applied dose for epidermis and dermis, respectively) upon application of the sunscreen complexed with SBE-β-CD, whereas HP-β-CD had no effect. In addition, photostability experiments demonstrated that SBE-β-CD complexation did not alter the sunscreen photochemical properties.