Nettle (Urtica dioica L.) as a source of antioxidant and anti-aging phytochemicals for cosmetic applications |
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Institution: | 1. Laboratoire de Biologie des Ligneux et des Grandes Cultures, LBLGC EA 1207, Université d''Orléans, Pôle Universitaire d''Eure et Loir, 21, rue de Loigny-la-Bataille, 28000 Chartres, France;2. Bioactifs et Cosmétiques, GDR 3711 COSMACTIFS, CNRS – Université d''Orléans, rue de Chartres, 45100 Orléans, France;3. École Sciences Industrielles et Technologies de l''Information (SITI), Département Chimie Alimentation Santé Environnement Risque (CASER), CNAM Paris, France;4. Alban Muller International, AMI, 9, rue Jean-Monnet, 28630 Fontenay-sur-Eure, France;5. Plantes Médicinales et Aromatiques 28, PMA28, 1, place de l’Église, 28140 Varize, France;6. Centre de Biophysique Moléculaire, CBM UPR4301, CNRS Orléans, rue Charles-Sadron, 45071 Orléans, France |
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Abstract: | Nettle (Urtica dioica L.) is a herbaceous perennial that has been used for centuries in folk medicine. More recently, nettle extracts have also been used in cosmetics because of the many benefits of their topical application for skin health. Their potential anti-aging action is of particular interest and is primarily ascribed to their antioxidant capacity. Here, using an experimental design approach and a clustering analysis, we linked the phytochemical composition of nettle extracts to their biological activities. This approach confirmed the antioxidant capacity of nettle extracts as well as providing the first evidence of another mechanism for their anti-aging potential involving the inhibition of enzyme activities, such as elastase and collagenase. We attributed these inhibitory effects to ursolic acid and quercetin present in the nettle extracts. Our results also demonstrated the possibility of extracting ursolic acid, quercetin and other phenolic compounds differentially to obtain an extract with a strong antioxidant capacity and anti-aging activities toward both elastase and collagenase. This could be of particular interest for cosmetic applications of nettle extracts. |
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Keywords: | Anti-aging Antioxidant Collagenase inhibitor Elastase inhibitor Quercetin Ursolic acid Acide ursolique Anti-âge Antioxidant Inhibiteurs de collagénase Inhibiteurs d’élastase Quercétine |
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