Development of a micellar electrokinetic capillary chromatography method for the determination of four naphthalenediols in cosmetics and a comparison with a HPLC method

A micellar electrokinetic capillary chromatography (MEKC) method with ultraviolet visible (UV) detection was used for the determination of 1,7-naphthalenediol, 2,3-naphthalenediol, 1,5-naphthalenediol, and 2,7-naphthalenediol in cosmetics. The current method for their determination in various cosmetics is high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Separation conditions affecting the MEKC method were optimized as 20 mM Na₂B₄O₇–50mM SDS, pH 9.8, with 22 kV applied voltage and UV detection at 230 nm. Under optimal conditions, electrophoretic analysis was completed in less than 6 min, with limit of detection (LOD) of 0.070–0.19 μg/mL and limit of quantitation (LOQ) of 0.23–0.63 μg/mL. A good linear relationship (r² > 0.99) was obtained at the range of 0.75–20 μg/mL. Recoveries for the four naphthalenediols in lotion, loose powder, and sun cream are between 91.2–107.2% with relative standard deviation (RSD) less than 4.04%. The method has been successfully applied to the determination of the four naphthalenediols in different kinds of cosmetics. A comparison with HPLC-UV method was also carried out according to the National Standards of the People's Republic of China. The results obtained by MEKC and HPLC methods are comparable, but the proposed MEKC method can help us obtain a much shorter detection time and low cost.