近岸非平整海底上耗散动力系统的广义波作用量守恒方程

为刻划近岸波-流-海底相互作用耗散动力系统的多种复杂作用机制，着眼于波浪对近岸大尺度变化环境流作用和考虑多变海底地形(可典型地刻划为由慢变水深和快变水深构成)的影响，由基于黏性流体Navie-Stokes方程的平均流方程，建立了近岸耗散动力系统的广义波作用量守恒方程，从中提出垂向速度波作用量和耗散波作用量这两种新概念，使得它们和经典的波作用量相互间达成了一种互补、协调而又主次分明的更为广泛的守恒形式．从而把波作用量这一经典概念从理想的平均流守恒系统引申到实际的平均流耗散系统(即广义守恒系统)中去，为解释沿岸过程和应用于近海、海岸工程提供了一个理论基础．

A GENERALIZED WAVE ACTION CONSERVATIVE EQUATION FOR THE DISSIPATIVE DYNAMICAL SYSTEM OVER UNEVEN BOTTOMS IN THE NEARSHORE REGION

To describe the various complex mechanisms of the dissipative dynamical system between waves, currents, and bottoms in the nearshore region, emphasizing on the wave motion on large-scale variation of ambient currents and considering the variety of topographic bottoms(described typically as consisting of a slowly varying water depth and a rapidly varying water depth), a generalized wave action equation for the dissipative dynamical system in the nearshore region is developed by using the mean-flow equations based on the Navier-Stokes equations of viscous fluid, thus raising two new concepts: the vertical velocity wave action and the dissipative wave action, which together with the classical wave action reach mutually a more widespread conservative form in complementation, coordination, and clearness on primary and secondary, extending the classical concept, wave action, from the ideal averaged flow conservative system into the real averaged flow dissipative system (that is, the generalized conservative system), and finally providing a widespread and profound, and advanced theoretical basis in explaining coastal process and being applied to offshore and coastal engineering.