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Colorants and oils in Roman make-ups–an eye witness account
Authors:Josefina Prez-Arantegui  Gemma Cepri  Erika Ribechini  Ilaria Degano  Maria Perla Colombini  Juan Paz-Peralta  Esperanza Ortiz-Palomar
Institution:aInstituto Universitario de Investigación en Ciencias Ambientales de Aragón (IUCA), Departamento de Química Analítica, Facultad de Ciencias, Universidad de Zaragoza, 50009 Zaragoza, Spain;bDipartimento di Chimica e Chimica Industriale, Università di Pisa, via Risorgimento 35, 56126 Pisa, Italy;cMuseo de Zaragoza, Plaza de los Sitios 6, 50001 Zaragoza, Spain
Abstract:Archaeological cosmetics, as well as revealing ancient knowledge, contain a complex mixture of very different organic and inorganic components with diverse properties. Most information on the preparation of ancient cosmetics comes from classical texts. However, although analysis of products contained in archaeological objects has recently identified some ingredients, there is still little known about how the cosmetics were prepared.Using a multi-analytical approach, we studied the chemical composition of two Roman pink make-ups that were preserved on the surface of a Roman bronze cosmetic tool and in a glass unguentarium. The results revealed that both make-ups were colored by madder lake but prepared in two different ways and with two completely different matrices (i.e. scented oils in the first case and gypsum in the second) highlighting that the make-ups had been prepared thoroughly, the ingredients carefully selected and their properties and possibilities for good cosmetic use had been understood.
Keywords:Cosmetic  Gas chromatography (GC)  Laser desorption/ionization (LDI)  Madder  Mass spectrometry (MS)  Oil  Pigment  Pyrolysis (Py)  Scanning electron microscopy (SEM)  Voltammetry
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