Second-order analysis of shallow-water wave spectra

Summary This paper presents a study based on a second-order interpretation of wave ?energy? spectra, which may explain the build-up of low-and high-frequency peaks for wave spectra measured in shallow water. A comparison between this interpretative model and laboratory data, which were obtained in a bidimensional wave flume, is also given in the paper. Paper presented at the IV Congresso del Gruppo Nazionale per la Fisica dell'Atmosfera e dell'Oceano, June 22–24, 1987, Rome.