直立防波堤上部分反射的三阶双色双向水波理论

为充分克服以往直立防波堤上立波波浪力的内在局限性和刻画直立防波堤堤前的多色多向波,提出一种可包含经典二维长峰波解和三维单色单向短峰波解的部分反射的三阶双色双向水波理论,并从中推断出适用于高阶多色多向波系统的一项普适法则——偶数阶频率为零,奇数阶频率个数构成一等比数列.

Third-order theory for bichromatic bidirectional water waves partially reflected from vertical breakwaters

To overcome the internal limitation of standing wave forces on vertical breakwaters and describe multichromatic multidirectional water waves in front of the breakwaters, a third-order theory, including the classical solutions of two-dimensional long-crested waves and monochromatic unidirectional short-crested waves, for bichromatic bidirectional water waves partially reflected from the breakwaters is developed. A universal law applicable to a higher-order multichromatic multidirectional wave system is proposed, that is, the even-order frequencies are zero, the numbers of the odd-order frequencies constitute a geometric progression.