Migrating sea ripples |
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| Institution: | 1. Institute of Thin Film Physics and Applications, Shenzhen Key Laboratory of Advanced Thin Films and Applications, College of Physics and Energy, Shenzhen University, 518060, China;2. Key Laboratory of Optoelectronic Devices and Systems of Ministry of Education and Guangdong Province, College of Optoelectronic Engineering, Shenzhen University, Shenzhen 518060, China;3. School of Materials Science and Engineering, Nanjing Institute of Technology, Nanjing 211167, China |
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| Abstract: | Ripple formation under sea waves is investigated by means of a linear stability analysis of a flat sandy bottom subject to the viscous flow which is present in the boundary layer at the bottom of propagating sea waves. Nonlinear terms in the momentum equation are retained to account for the presence of a steady drift. Hence the work by Blondeaux is extended by considering steeper waves and/or less deep waters. Second order effects in the sea wave steepness are found to cause neither destabilizing nor stabilizing effects on the process of ripple formation. However, because of the presence of a steady velocity component in the direction of wave propagation, ripples are found to migrate at a constant rate which is predicted as function of sediment and wave characteristics. The analysis assumes the flow regime in the bottom boundary layer to be laminar and the results are significant for ripples at the initial stage of their formation or for mature ripples of small amplitude (rolling-grain ripples). A comparison of the theoretical findings with laboratory experiments supports the reliability of the approach and of the theoretical results. |
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