Optimization and validation of a nonaqueous micellar electrokinetic chromatography method for determination of polycyclic musks in perfumes

A nonaqueous micellar electrokinetic chromatography method was developed for determination of Tonalide®, Galaxolide®, and Traseolide® polycyclic musks (PCMs). These compounds are widely used as fragrance ingredients in cosmetics. The method was optimized by using a three variable Box‐Behnken experimental design and response surface methodology. A modified chromatographic response function was defined in order to adequately weigh the terms in the response function. After optimization of experimental conditions, an electrolyte solution of 195 mM SDS and 40 mM NaH₂PO₄ in formamide was selected for the separation of the three PCMs, and the applied voltage was fixed at 30 kV. The nonaqueous MEKC method was then checked in terms of linearity, limits of detection and quantification, repeatability, intermediate precision and accuracy, providing appropriate values (i.e. RSD values for precision never exceeding 7%, and accuracy 96–107%). Nonaqueous MEKC for determination of the selected compounds was successfully applied to the analysis of commercial perfume samples.