Development of Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction to Produce Skin-Whitening and Anti-Wrinkle Substances from Safflower Seed

In this study, ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) was applied to extract bioactive substances with skin-whitening, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant effects from safflower seeds, and the extraction conditions were optimized by a central composite design. The independent variables, including extraction time (5.0~55.0 min), extraction temperature (26.0~94.0 °C), and ethanol concentration (0.0~100%), were optimized to increase tyrosinase activity inhibitory (TAI), collagenase activity inhibitory (CAI), and radical scavenging activity (RSA), which are indicators of skin-whitening, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant effects. An extraction time of 26.4 min, extraction temperature of 52.1 °C, and ethanol concentration of 50.7% were found to be optimum conditions of UAE, under which TAI, CAI, and RSA were 53.3%, 91.5%, and 27.7%, respectively. The extract produced by UAE was analyzed by LC-MS/MS, and maleic acid and levulinic acid were identified as the main substances. Therefore, UAE is evaluated as an effective process to extract skin-whitening, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant substances from safflower seeds at lower temperatures and shorter extraction times compared to the conventional extraction methods. Overall, safflower seeds extract can be used as a material for value-added cosmetics, including maleic acid and levulinic acid, which have bioactive functions.     

Effects of Sargassum thunbergii Extract on Skin Whitening and Anti-Wrinkling through Inhibition of TRP-1 and MMPs

Sargassum thunbergii has been traditionally used as an edible and medicinal material in oriental countries. However, the skin-whitening and anti-wrinkling effects of S. thunbergii have not yet been investigated. This study was conducted to establish optimal extraction conditions for the production of bioactive compounds with antioxidant activity as well as skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle effects using ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) in S. thunbergii. The extraction time (5.30~18.7 min), extraction temperature (22.4~79.6 °C), and ethanol concentration (0.0~99.5%), which are the main variables of the UAE, were optimized using a central composite design. Quadratic regression equations were derived based on experimental data and showed a high coefficient of determination (R² > 0.85), demonstrating suitability for prediction. The optimal UAE condition for maximizing all dependent variables, including radical scavenging activity (RSA), tyrosinase inhibitory activity (TIA), and collagenase inhibitory activity (CIA), was identified as an extraction time of 12.0 min, an extraction temperature of 65.2 °C, and ethanol of 53.5%. Under these conditions, the RSA, TIA, and CIA of S. thunbergii extract were 86.5%, 88.3%, and 91.4%, respectively. We also confirmed S. thunbergii extract had inhibitory effects on the mRNA expression of tyrosinase-related protein-1, matrix metalloproteinase-1, and matrix metalloproteinase-9, which are the main genes of melanin synthesis and collagen hydrolysis. Liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry was used to identify the main phenolic compounds in S. thunbergii extract, and caffeic acid was identified as a major peak, demonstrating that high value-added ingredients with skin-whitening and anti-wrinkling effects can be produced from S. thunbergii and used for developing cosmetic materials.     

Inhibitory Effect of Elaeagnus umbellata Fractions on Melanogenesis in α-MSH-Stimulated B16-F10 Melanoma Cells

When skin is exposed to UV radiation, melanocytes produce melanin. Excessive melanin production leads to skin pigmentation, which causes various cosmetic and health problems. Therefore, the development of safe, natural therapeutics that inhibit the production of melanin is necessary. Elaeagnus umbellata (EU) has long been widely used as a folk medicinal plant because of pharmacological properties that include anti-ulcer, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, we investigated the antioxidant activity and melanogenesis inhibitory effects of EU fractions in B16-F10 melanoma cells. EU fractions showed a dose-dependent increase in antioxidant activity in radical scavenging activity. In addition, we evaluated the effect of EU fractions on tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced B16-F10 melanoma cells. EU was noncytotoxic at 12.5–50 μg/mL. EU fractions effectively inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis, suppressed the phosphorylation of CREB and ERK involved in the melanogenesis pathway, and down-regulated expression of melanogenesis-related proteins. Interestingly, the anti-melanogenesis effect was most effective at a concentration of 50 μg/mL EU, and the effects of the fractions were superior to those of the extract. Therefore, our study suggests that EU has potential as a safe treatment for excessive pigmentation or as a natural ingredient in cosmetics.