化妆品及香精中27种香料的气相色谱-质谱检测方法

建立了气相色谱-质谱同时检测化妆品及香精中27种香料的方法。采用甲醇作为提取溶剂，经弱极性毛细管柱分离，用气相色谱-质谱检测，离子源为电子轰击离子（EI）源。该方法对麝香二甲苯、羟基香茅醛和羟异己基3-环己烯基甲醛的检出限分别为1.2、15和15 mg/kg，其余香料的检出限为3.0 mg/kg。27种香料在相应的线性范围内线性关系良好，相关系数均大于等于0.996。在3个加标浓度下，麝香二甲苯的回收率为73.3%~76.1%，其余为81.5%~118%，相对标准偏差小于10%。采用建立的方法对69份香精或标示含香料化妆品进行检测，全部样品都检测出含有一种或多种香料。该方法适用于化妆品及香精中27种香料的测定。     

Fluorinated Musk Fragrances: The CF2 Group as a Conformational Bias Influencing the Odour of Civetone and (R)‐Muscone

The difluoromethylene (CF₂) group has a strong tendency to adopt corner over edge locations in aliphatic macrocycles. In this study, the CF₂ group has been introduced into musk relevant macrocyclic ketones. Nine civetone and five muscone analogues have been prepared by synthesis for structure and odour comparisons. X‐ray studies indeed show that the CF₂ groups influence ring structure and they give some insight into the preferred ring conformations, triggering a musk odour as determined in a professional perfumery environment. The historical conformational model of Bersuker and co‐workers for musk fragrance generally holds, and structures that become distorted from this consensus, by the particular placement of the CF₂ groups, lose their musk fragrance and become less pleasant.     

Melt Extrusion Encapsulation of Flavors: A Review

Encapsulation of flavor and aroma compounds has been largely explored in order to meet appraisal demands from consumers by improving the impact of flavor during the consumption of food products. Even though several techniques have been used for encapsulating volatile compounds, i.e., spray drying, fluidized bed coating, coacervation, and melt extrusion, those most frequently used in the food industry are spray drying and melt extrusion. In this article, the different techniques of encapsulation of flavors and fragrances in polymer-based matrices by extrusion are reviewed and partly re-defined, emphasizing the differences between the various techniques reported so far and the role of matrix types, additives, and operative conditions. Also, the role of water as a key parameter for controlled release and shelf stability of the delivery system will be discussed.     

Geranyl Acetate Emulsions: Surfactant Association Structures and Stability

The phase diagram of fragrance oil, geranyl acetate, water, and a surfactant, Laureth 4, was used to calculate the surfactant association structures present in emulsions with constant O/W ratio for increased fractions of surfactant. The liquid crystal appeared in the emulsion at a critical value of the surfactant fraction and additional surfactant caused an approximately linear increase of it, while the fraction of the aqueous phase experienced a corresponding reduction. The result of the calculations was confirmed by optical microscopy observation with the samples between crossed polarizers. The calculations revealed the formation of vesicles from the liquid crystal to result in a drastic reduction of the “free” aqueous phase, due to the amount of the aqueous liquid forming the core of the vesicle.     

Swelling of Water/Nonionic Surfactant Lamellar Liquid Crystals: A Model

A model is presented to provide quantitative measures to estimate the trends of the change in the penetration of the added component into the polar part of the amphiphile layer in lamellar liquid crystals of water and ethoxylated surfactants with added water (or polar solvents). The total thickness of the bi‐layer is treated as composed of an aqueous layer, of a layer of the polar groups from the surfactant and of the hydrocarbon chains of the latter. A fraction α of the added water is assumed penetrating the polar group layer leading to its expansion. The evaluation is built on the fact that experimental determinations of the interlayer spacing in the overwhelming majority of cases show a first order linear dependence on the ratio of added water. In the model this linearity is obtained by variation of the degree of penetration of water. The model indicated a reduction in the degree of penetration with added water, which is a rational trend. The model demonstrates the earlier interpretation of a structure, whose interlayer spacing is invariant with water contents as nonswelling; for example, in which all added water penetrates the amhiphile layer, is not appropriate. The model demonstrates the constancy of the interlayer spacing to be a consequence of a balance between the expansion of the amphiphile layer and the increase of a “free water” layer.     

Headspace stir bar sorptive extraction followed by thermal desorption and gas chromatography with mass spectrometry to determine musk fragrances in sludge samples without sample pretreatment

A direct, simple and solvent‐free method based on headspace stir bar sorptive extraction and thermal desorption gas chromatography with mass spectroscopy was developed to determine 13 musk fragrances (six polycyclic musks, three nitro musks and four macrocyclic musks) in sludge without sample treatment. The optimal headspace stir bar sorptive extraction conditions were achieved when a polydimethylsiloxane stir bar was exposed for 45 min in the headspace of a 10 mL vial filled with 100 mg of sludge mixed with 0.2 mL of water stirred at 750 rpm at 80°C. The stir bar was then desorbed in the thermal desorption gas chromatography and mass spectrometry system, obtaining limits of detection between 5 and 30 ng/g. The method applicability was tested with sewage sludge from two urban wastewater treatment plants and from a potable water treatment plant. Results showed galaxolide and tonalide to be the most abundant musk fragrances found in wastewater treatment plants with maximal concentrations of 9240 and 7500 ng/g, respectively. Maximum concentration levels between 35 and 635 ng/g were found for musk ketone, musk moskene, traseolide, phantolide and celestolide in this kind of samples. Concentrations below the limits of quantitation of phantolide, galaxolide, tonalide and musk ketone were found in sludge from a potable water treatment plant.     

What's Hot,What's Not: The Trends of the Past 20 Years in the Chemistry of Odorants

This review is the sequel to the 2000 report on the recent advances in the chemistry of odorants and it summarizes the developments in fragrance chemistry over the past 20 years. Following the olfactory spectrum set out in that report, trendsetting so‐called captive odorants (patent‐protected ingredients unavailable to the market) are presented according to the main odor families: “fruity”, “marine”, “green”, “floral”, “spicy”, “woody”, “amber”, and “musky”. The design of odorants, their chemical synthesis, and their use in modern perfumery are illustrated with prominent examples. Featured are new fruity odorants that provide signature in the top note, as well as precursor technology. In the green domain, focus is on leafy notes and green pear. New benzodioxepines and benzodioxoles have modernized the marine family and required a revision of the existing olfactophore models. The replacement of Lilial and Lyral kept the industry busy in the floral domain with a plethora of new “muguets”. There was continued activity in the domain of rose odorants, especially in the area of rose ketones. Biotechnology became significant, for example, with Clearwood and Ambrofix, and the principal odorants of vetiver oil in the woody family have been found. Fourth and fifth families of musk odorants were also discovered and populated. Thus, new avenues for further explorations into fragrance chemistry have been opened.     

Design and Enantioselective Synthesis of Cashmeran Odorants by Using “Enol Catalysis”

Novel Cashmeran odorants were designed by molecular modeling. Their short syntheses involve a novel asymmetric Brønsted acid catalyzed Michael addition of unactivated α‐substituted ketones. This key transformation was realized by utilizing a new type of enol activation catalysis and affords different cyclic ketones bearing α‐quaternary stereocenters in good to excellent yields and with high enantioselectivity. Subsequent McMurry coupling and Saegusa–Ito oxidation furnished the enantiopure target odorants, one enantiomer of which indeed possesses the typical olfactory aspects of Cashmeran.     

Competitive Gold‐Promoted Meyer–Schuster and oxy‐Cope Rearrangements of 3‐Acyloxy‐1,5‐enynes: Selective Catalysis for the Synthesis of (+)‐(S)‐γ‐Ionone and (−)‐(2S,6 R)‐cis‐γ‐Irone

We report a simple, highly stereoselective synthesis of (+)‐(S)‐γ‐ionone and (‐)‐(2S,6R)‐cis‐γ‐irone, two characteristic and precious odorants; the latter compound is a constituent of the essential oil obtained from iris rhizomes. Of general interest in this approach are the photoisomerization of an endo trisubstituted cyclohexene double bond to an exo vinyl group and the installation of the enone side chain through a [(NHC)Au^I]‐catalyzed Meyer–Schuster‐like rearrangement. This required a careful investigation of the mechanism of the gold‐catalyzed reaction and a judicious selection of reaction conditions. In fact, it was found that the Meyer–Schuster reaction may compete with the oxy‐Cope rearrangement. Gold‐based catalytic systems can promote either reaction selectively. In the present system, the mononuclear gold complex [Au(IPr)Cl], in combination with the silver salt AgSbF₆ in 100:1 butan‐2‐one/H₂O, proved to efficiently promote the Meyer–Schuster rearrangement of propargylic benzoates, whereas the digold catalyst [{Au(IPr)}₂(μ‐OH)][BF₄] in anhydrous dichloromethane selectively promoted the oxy‐Cope rearrangement of propargylic alcohols.     

The synthesis of (Z)-trisubstituted allylic alcohols by the selective 1,4-hydrogenation of dienol esters: improved synthesis of (-)-β-santalol

(E)-Trisubstituted allylic alcohols are commonly prepared from the corresponding (E)-enals, themselves readily accessible by a simple aldol condensation reaction. We demonstrate that these very same (E)-enals can be converted into (Z)-trisubstituted allylic acetates (and thus alcohols) by a ruthenium-catalyzed 1,4-hydrogenation of the corresponding dienol acetates. This simple solution to a long-lasting problem was applied to an industrially feasible synthesis of (-)-β-santalol.