Photostability of sunscreens

Sunscreens were originally designed to include mainly UVB-filters. Because of the deeper penetration of UVA light, causing photoaging and DNA damage, there has been a shift towards broad spectrum sunscreens. These broad spectrum sunscreens now include both UVA- and UVB-filters and other ingredients which possess antioxidant activity. Although sunscreens are regulated in most countries, photostability testing is not mandatory. Because of the ability of sunscreen ingredients to absorb UV-light and the complexity of most of these formulations, which may include more than one UV-filter, antioxidants and other formulation excipients, it is important that their photostability in combination is determined.     

Ultraviolet resonance Raman spectroscopy as a robust spectroscopic tool for in situ sunscreen analysis

Current techniques being used for sunscreen analysis are incapable of direct determination of the active ingredients in sunscreen formulations. Therefore, the development of methodologies for rapid in situ analysis of sunscreens is desirable. This paper describes the application of ultraviolet resonance Raman spectroscopy (UVRRS) to the direct in situ analysis of sunscreen formulations. High-quality UV resonance Raman spectra were obtained for five sunscreen active ingredients (AIs), mixtures of the AIs and real sunscreen formulation samples. The spectra from the sunscreen formulations gave distinct spectral signatures indicative of the sunscreen AIs in each sample, with essentially no interference from the complex sunscreen matrix. Also, despite the fact that many of the AIs are fluorescent, no fluorescence interferences in the resonance Raman spectra were observed. Excitation wavelength-dependent studies throughout the 244-275 nm region demonstrate that the best discrimination of the AIs was achieved at an excitation wavelength of 244 nm. Thus, by tuning the excitation wavelength within the absorption bands of the AIs, complete identification of these analytes can be achieved in situ without any sample pretreatment or separation. The limit of detection found for a common AI in situ with this technique is 0.23% (w/w), the limit of quantitation is 0.78% (w/w), while the dynamic range is between 0.8% and 50% (w/w). The technique is fast, robust, lacks any major interference, and can be adapted for routine online quality control.     

A reliable and environmentally-friendly liquid-chromatographic method for multi-class determination of fat-soluble UV filters in cosmetic products

An environmentally-friendly analytical method for the simultaneous determination of 15 fat-soluble ultraviolet (UV) filters currently authorized by the European Union regulation on cosmetic products has been developed. The determination was performed by liquid chromatography with UV spectrophotometric detection. Different parameters, such as type of column, oven temperature, mobile phase composition and flow rate were studied. The best chromatographic separation was obtained under the following conditions: C18 column set at 60 °C and gradient ethanol:water (containing 1% formic acid and 20 mM of 2-hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin) as mobile phase pumped at 1 mL min⁻¹. 2-Hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin was added as mobile phase modifier to achieve the complete resolution of some of the chromatographic peaks. The 15 target compounds were separated in less than 30 min. The method was satisfactorily validated by analyzing three laboratory-made cosmetic samples besides of eleven commercially available cosmetic products containing different combination of the target UV filters. Good accordance of the found levels compared with those of the laboratory-made samples and those of the commercial samples (when available) was achieved. Moreover, excellent recoveries (97–104%) and good intra-day and inter-day precision values at different concentration levels, besides limits of detection values below the μg mL⁻¹ level, were obtained. These good analytical features, as well as their environmentally-friendly characteristics, make the presented method suitable not only for routine analysis in cosmetics industries, but also as candidate reference method for sunscreen analysis.     

Hydrotrope Action of Vitamin C (VC) and Its Application in a Sunscreen

The solubility regions of the sunscreen 2-ethyIhexyl p-methoxycinnamate (E557) in the CTAB/ n-CsHnOH/ H₂ O system with and without the hydrotrope agent vitamin C (VC) are determined. E357 was only sohibilized in the bicontinuous microemulsion (BI), the W/ O microemulsion area and the lamellar liquid crystal region (LLC). The addition of VC in the system greatly enlarged the solubility amount of E₅₅₇in the bicontinuous region, but reduced h in the lamellar liquid crystal area. Small angle X-ray diffraction measurement was used to determine the location of E₅₅₇ in the lamellar liquid crystal showing the suncreen molecule penetrating between the hydrocarbon chains in the liquid crystal structure.The UV absorption spectra of E557 in various media was measured, surprisingly showing a dependence on the colloidal structure.     

Organic UV filters in marine environments: An update of analytical methodologies,occurrence and distribution

Ultraviolet filters (UV Filters) are compounds that are widely employed in personal care products such as sunscreens to protect the skin from sun damage, but they are also added to other products, such as food packaging, plastics, paints, textiles, detergents, etc. The continuous use of these products causes the release of a substantial amount of these products into the marine environment through direct input or wastewater discharge, and thus they are becoming an important class of contaminants of emerging concern. A correlation between their occurrence and different negative effects on marine biota has been reported.Taking into account all the possible impacts on the environment, knowledge of their presence and distribution in the different compartments of the ecosystems, ranging from waters and sediments to aquatic organisms, which potentially suffer from bioaccumulation and biomagnification processes, is essential. High concentrations of ultraviolet filters have been found in samples collected from across the entire planet, even in polar regions, revealing their global distribution.Therefore, interest in the sensitive determination of ultraviolet filters in several marine matrices has increased. In this article, an overall review of the more recently reported analytical chemistry methods for identifying and quantifying these compounds in marine environmental samples is presented. We compare and discuss the potential advantages and disadvantages of every step involved in the analytical procedure, including the pre-treatment, treatment and extraction processes that are required to avoid matrix effects. Moreover, we describe the worldwide occurrence and distribution of those most important UV filters.     

The feasibility of using fluorescence spectroscopy as a rapid, non-invasive method for evaluating sunscreen performance

We have carried out ex vivo studies to examine the feasibility of using fluorescence spectroscopy as an in vivo quantitative technique to assess sunscreen substantivity in terms of skin surface thickness and/or photoprotection. We found that the majority of sunscreens produced insufficient natural fluorescence and so we have attempted to increase the fluorescent signal by adding various fluorescing agents to the sunscreens. However, none of these substances is ideal; either they do not bind sufficiently strongly to sunscreen products, or their fluorescence is quenched by the active ingredients contained within sunscreens. The feasibility of using fluorescence spectroscopy for in vivo quantitative assessments of sunscreen substantivity therefore remains unproved and is dependent on a suitable fluorescent agent being found. Such an agent would have to be non-toxic, mix readily with sunscreens and be excited by visible wavelengths.     

Evaluation of the lipophilicity of selected sunscreens—A chemometric analysis of thin‐layer chromatographic retention data

The lipophilicities of 22 selected sunscreens, preservatives, and vitamins used in topical skin products were measured by thin‐layer chromatography. Lipophilicity was calculated in silico from the sunscreen molecular structures and compared to the experimental octanol/water partition coefficients found in the literature. The retention of the compounds was investigated on an RP‐18 stationary phase with mobile phases consisting of water and one of six organic modifiers (dioxane, tetrahydrofuran, acetone, acetonitrile, methanol, and dimethylformamide) at different concentrations. The theoretical lipophilicities were calculated by several computational algorithms and the results of these calculations were compared using cluster analysis. The results showed that two out of the six investigated organic modifiers (dioxane and acetone) may be used to estimate the octanol/water partition coefficients of highly lipophilic compounds having lipophilicities that cannot be measured directly by the shake‐flask method.     

Genotoxicity of visible light (400–800 nm) and photoprotection assessment of ectoin, l-ergothioneine and mannitol and four sunscreens

This study was designed to determine the genotoxic effects of visible (400–800 nm) and ultraviolet A (UVA)/visible (315–800 nm) lights on human keratinocytes and CHO cells. The alkaline comet assay was used to quantify DNA-damage. In addition, photo-dependent cytogenetic lesions were assessed in CHO cells by the micronucleus test. Three protective compounds [ectoin, l-ergothioneine (ERT) and mannitol] were tested with the comet assay for their effectiveness to reduce DNA single-strand breaks (SSB). Finally, the genomic photoprotections of two broad-band sunscreens and their tinted analogues were assessed by the comet assay. The WST-1 cytotoxicity assay revealed a decrease of the keratinocyte viability of 30% and 13% for the highest UVA/visible and visible irradiations (15 and 13.8 J/cm², respectively). Visible as well as UVA/visible lights induced DNA SSB and micronuclei, in a dose-dependent manner. The level of DNA breakage induced by visible light was 50% of the one generated by UVA/visible irradiation. However, UVA radiations were 10 times more effective than visible radiations to produce SSB. The DNA lesions induced by visible and UVA/visible lights were reduced after a 1-h preincubation period with the three tested compounds. The maximal protective effects were 92.7%, 97.9% and 52.0% for ectoin (0.1 mM), ERT (0.5 mM) and mannitol (1.5 mM), respectively, against visible light and 68.9%, 59.8% and 62.7% for ectoin (0.1 mM), ERT (0.5 mM) and mannitol (1.5 mM), respectively, against UVA/visible light. Thus, visible light was genotoxic on human keratinocytes and CHO cells through oxidative stress mechanisms similar to the ones induced by UVA radiations. The four tested sunscreens efficiently prevented DNA lesions that were induced by both visible and UVA/visible irradiations. The tinted sunscreens were slightly more effective that their colorless analogues. There is a need to complement sunscreen formulations with additional molecules to obtain a complete internal and external photoprotection against both UVA and visible lights.