Potential use of secondary products of the agri-food industry for topical formulations and comparative analysis of antioxidant activity of grape leaf polyphenols

The aim of the present study was to develop a phytocosmetic using Vitis waste by-products, for use as a topical formulation for skin protection against ultraviolet radiation damage. The study also evaluates the free radical scavenger activity of the crude extracts of dried leaves of Vitis vinifera and Vitis labrusca, as well as the anthocyanins, flavonoid fraction and isolated compounds. Next, release and permeation studies of hydrogels were performed using Franz-type diffusion cells. Flavonoid acted more intensively in TRAP and conjugated dienes antioxidant assays, whereas anthocyanins had higher antioxidant activity in hydroxyl and nitric oxide assay. Only quercetin-3-O-glucuronide (5) was released from hydrogels, and the flavonoid retention in porcine ear skin after eight hours of permeation was below of limit of quantification for this compound. The polyphenols present in Vitis are capable of absorbing UV and visible light, justifying their potential as sunscreens for the development of a phytocosmetic.     

Validation of an LC method to determine skin retention profile of genistein from nanoemulsions incorporated in hydrogels

Recent studies have shown the effect of soy isoflavones in preventing skin photoaging and photocarcinogenesis, especially for genistein (GEN). Nanoemulsions have been proposed as a delivery system for GEN administration due to the low water solubility of this isoflavone. This article describes the validation of an isocratic liquid chromatography method to determine GEN in porcine ear skin layers from nanoemulsions before and after incorporation into hydrogels. The analyses are performed on a reversed-phase C18 column using a mobile phase composed of methanol-water (70:30, v/v) under acid conditions (at pH 3.0) and UV detection at 270 nm. The method is linear in the range of 0.1-10 μg/mL (r(2) > 0.999) in the presence of skin extracts. The low limit of quantitation is estimated as 0.1 μg/mL. No interferences from formulation excipients or skin layer compounds are detected. The RSD values for intra- and inter-day precision are lower than 15%. Recovery ranged from approximately 90% to 110%. The method is applied to estimate GEN retention in the skin from formulations using Franz diffusion cells. The highest amount of GEN is detected in the epidermis (185 μg/cm(2)). In conclusion, the method proved to be specific, precise, and accurate in determining GEN amounts from formulations in skin retention studies.     

Influence of Harvest Time on the Chemical Profile of Pereskia aculeate Mill. Using Paper Spray Mass Spectrometry

This study evaluated the physicochemical characteristics and the production of bioactive compounds of Pereskia aculeata Mill. at different harvest times. Here, we performed a qualitative evaluation of the chemical profile by paper spray mass spectrometry (PSMS), the phenolic acid and flavonoid profile by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), antioxidant activity, total carotenoids, total phenolic compounds, total flavonoids, total anthocyanins, color characteristics, total soluble solids (TSS), total solids (TS), pH, and total titratable acidity (TTA). The chemical profile was not affected, with the exception of 4,5-dimethyl-2,6-octadiene and azelaic acid, which was only identified in the leaves harvested during the winter. The content of four phenolic acids and three flavonoids were analyzed; out of these, no significant amounts of ellagic acid and quercetin were detected. There was no difference in production of bioactive compounds between seasons, reflecting the antioxidant activity, which also did not differ. Brightness, chroma, and leaf pH were the only physicochemical characteristics that did not vary between seasons.