化妆品中的肽化学*

随着科技进步和产业提升,人们不断从本源上追求美、从长效上保持美、从机制上激发美。众多肽类化合物,已被证实在人体内具有独特的生物学促进或抑制作用,也因此被广泛应用于美妆产品。以化妆品中生物活性肽的不同功效为主线,对其化学结构进行分析并阐述其中的生理作用机制。     

A new procedure for determination of nickel in some fake jewelry and cosmetics samples after dispersive liquid–liquid microextraction by FAAS

A new, simple and cheap dispersive liquid–liquid microextraction (DLLME) procedure was optimized for the preconcentration of trace amounts of Ni(II) as a prior step to its determination by flame atomic absorption spectrometry (FAAS). It is based on the microextraction of nickel, where appropriate amounts of the extraction solvent (CHCl₃), disperser solvent (ethanol) and chelating agent, name 5‐[(Z)‐isoxazol‐3‐yl‐diazenyl]‐2‐methyl‐quinolin‐8‐ol (MMD), were firstly synthesized/characterized and used. Various parameters that affect the extraction procedure such as pH, centrifugation rate and time, the chelating agent (MMD) concentration and sampling volume on the recovery of Ni(II) were investigated. The preconcentration of a 20 ml sample solution was thus enhanced by a factor of 80. The resulting calibration graph was linear in the range of 0.24–10 mg L⁻¹ with a correlation coefficient of 0.9998. The limit of detection (3 s/b) obtained under optimal conditions was 1.00 μg L⁻¹. The relative standard deviation for certified reference material determinations was 1.2%. The accuracy of the method was verified by the determination of Ni(II) in the certified reference material of wastewater (Waste water CWW TMD). The proposed procedure was successfully applied to the determination of Ni(II) in some fake jewelry and cosmetics samples.     

气相色谱-质谱联用法测定化妆品中邻苯二甲酸酯类化合物的不确定度评定

气相色谱-质谱联用法测定化妆品中邻苯二甲酸酯类化合物不确定度的主要来源有标准溶液引入的不确定度、样品引入的不确定度、样品处理过程中引入的不确定度。以邻苯二甲酸二丁酯(DBP)为例,对各不确定度分量进行了评定,计算了合成不确定度和扩展不确定度。当化妆品中DBP测量结果为10.39 mg/L时,其扩展不确定度为0.50 mg/L(k=2)。     

Carboxylated graphene oxide/polyvinyl chloride as solid-phase extraction sorbent combined with ion chromatography for the determination of sulfonamides in cosmetics

A carboxylated graphene oxide/polyvinyl chloride (CGO/PVC) material was prepared as a sorbent for the selective extraction of sulphonamides from complex sample. After being dispersed in buffer solution, sample was transferred into the prefabricated solid-phase extraction (SPE) column, which integrated extraction and cleanup into one single-step. A multi-response optimization based on the Box-Behnken design was used to optimize factors affecting extraction efficiency. Compared with the commonly commercial sorbents including MCX, WCX and C₁₈, CGO/PVC hybrid material had higher extraction selectivity and capacity to sulphonamides. The limits of detection and quantification for seven target compounds were in the range of 3.4–7.1 μg/L and 11.4–23.7 μg/L, respectively. The self-assembly SPE cartridge was successfully used to enrich seven analytes in anti-acne cosmetics prior to ion chromatography detection with good recoveries of 87.8–102.0% and relative standard deviations of 1.2–6.4%, implying that this method was suitable for routine analysis of cosmetics.     

静态顶空/气相色谱-质谱法同时测定化妆品中22种有毒挥发性有机溶剂残留

以2015版《化妆品安全技术规范》中规定的常见禁用及限用有毒挥发性有机溶剂为研究对象,建立了静态顶空/气相色谱-质谱法(SHS/GC-MS)同时测定化妆品中22种有毒挥发性有机溶剂(VOC)(二氯甲烷、顺式-1,2-二氯乙烯、反式-1,2-二氯乙烯、2-氯-1,3-丁二烯、三氯甲烷、1,2-二氯乙烷、苯、四氯化碳、三氯乙烯、甲苯、四氯乙烯、氯苯、乙苯、三溴甲烷、间二甲苯、对二甲苯、苯乙烯、邻二甲苯、异丙苯、1,4-二氯苯、1,2-二氯苯、六氯丁二烯)残留的检测方法。试样在80℃下30 min静态顶空,经DB-1柱分离后,采用选择离子监测模式(SIM)进行定性定量分析。优化了顶空、色谱和质谱参数,结果表明:22种VOC在0.5~50 ng/m L浓度范围内均呈良好的线性关系,相关系数均大于0.99,在1.0,2.0,5.0 ng/m L 3个浓度加标水平下的平均回收率为80.3%~102.7%,相对标准偏差(RSD,n=6)为6.4%~9.9%,检出限为0.2~5.0 ng/g。结果表明,该方法简便、灵敏、准确,具有良好的重现性和稳定性,适合于化妆品中22种VOC残留的筛查和确证检测。     

高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中的10种美白活性成分及2种禁用成分

建立了同时测定化妆品中10种美白活性成分及2种禁用成分的高效液相色谱分析方法。水基、乳液等含油脂较少的样品采用0.02 mol/L磷酸二氢钾溶液(pH 6.0)直接提取;油脂含量高的样品及蜡基、粉基类的样品先加入2.5 m L二氯甲烷溶解后再用0.02 mol/L磷酸二氢钾溶液(pH 6.0)提取。提取液在9 500r/min下离心后用0.22μm滤膜过滤。样品采用Eclipse XDB-C_(18)色谱柱为固定相,以0.02 mol/L磷酸二氢钾溶液(pH 6.0)和甲醇溶液为流动相,梯度洗脱,流速为1.0 m L/min,柱温为25℃,使用二极管阵列检测器(DAD)进行检测,检测波长为230 nm和250 nm,外标法定量。结果显示:12种化合物在2.5~100 mg/L范围内线性关系良好,相关系数(r)均大于0.999 0。方法的定量下限(以信噪比为10计)为0.006 5%~0.025%,添加水平为0.025%~0.5%时回收率为87%~102%,相对标准偏差均小于4%。该方法前处理简单、回收率高、精密度好,适用于化妆品中10种美白活性成分及2种禁用成分的快速测定。     

The review of versatile application of collagen

This review reports recent advances in the versatile application of collagen. Collagen materials have attracted great attention because they exhibit properties required in cosmetic preparations, in the biomedical field, and in the tanning industry leading to leather production. Herein, the structure and application of collagen are discussed in general, and detailed examples are also drawn from scientific literature and practical work. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

分散固相萃取-液相色谱-串联质谱法同时快速测定化妆品中81种糖皮质激素

建立了分散固相萃取-液相色谱-串联质谱同时快速测定化妆品中81种非法添加糖皮质激素(GCs)的分析方法。样品用水分散后加乙腈超声提取,经十八烷基键合硅胶(C18)和N-丙基乙二胺(PSA)净化,待测物选用具有多重色谱保留模式的Poroshell 120 PFP色谱柱(100 mm×2.1 mm,2.7μm)分离,以0.2%(v/v)乙酸水溶液-乙腈为流动相梯度洗脱,在电喷雾正离子模式下以动态多反应监测方式测定,内标法定量。81种待测物在各自的浓度范围内线性关系良好,相关系数均大于0.99,在3个不同的添加水平下,平均回收率为68.8%~105.3%,RSD为2.9%~13.1%(n=6),方法的检出限(S/N≥3)和定量限(S/N≥10)分别为0.002~0.006μg/g和0.005~0.020μg/g。筛查了137个化妆品样品,发现16个阳性样品,含量为16.9~158μg/g。结果表明,该法简便快速,灵敏可靠,适用于化妆品中81种GCs的同时快速定性定量筛查分析。     

Simultaneous determination of eight alkaloids and oleandrin in herbal cosmetics by dispersive solid‐phase extraction coupled with ultra high performance liquid chromatography and tandem mass spectrometry

We utilized ultra‐high performance liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry and dispersive solid‐phase extraction to develop a new method for the detection of nine analytes (scopolamine, cephaeline, strychnine, hyoscyamine, brucine, hydrastine, ajmalicine, colchicine, and oleandrin) in herbal cosmetics. Acetonitrile/water and 2‐propylaminoethylamine were used to disperse and purify during the dispersive solid‐phase extraction step. The analytes were separated by a Waters UPLC HSS T3 column and detected through electrospray ionization source in the positive mode with multi‐reaction monitoring conditions. Under the optimal conditions, the calibration curves were linear in the range of 0.2–100.0 μg/L with the correlation coefficients higher than 0.995. The method limit of quantitation (S/N = 10) were 5.0 μg/kg for oleandrin and 1.0 μg/kg for the other eight alkaloids. The mean recoveries at three spiked concentration levels of 1.0–10.0 μg/kg were in the range of 86.9–116.5% with the intra‐day relative standard deviations (n  = 6) ranging from 2.4 to 8.8%, and inter‐day relative standard deviations ranging from 2.7 to 5.7%. This method is accurate, simple and rapid, and has been applied to the quality supervision of herbal cosmetics in Guangzhou.     

高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中10种限用物质

建立了乙腈超声提取、高效液相色谱/二极管阵列检测快速测定化妆品中的氢醌、水杨酸、苯酚、苯氧乙醇、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯、对羟基苯甲酸乙酯、对羟基苯甲酸丙酯、对羟基苯甲酸丁酯、双氯酚、三氯生10种限用物质含量的分析方法.对提取方法、液相色谱条件和检测条件进行了优化,10种限用物质标准溶液的线性范围为0.01～0.1g/L,50...