A numerical model for run‐up of breaking waves

In the present paper, the numerical method for the three‐dimensional run‐up, given in Johnsgard and Pedersen [‘A numerical model for three‐dimensional run‐up’, Int. J. Numer. Methods Fluids, 24 , 913–931 (1997)], is extended to include wave breaking. In the fundamental problem of run‐up of a uniform bore, the present model is compared with analytical solutions from the literature. The numerical solutions converge, but very slowly. This is not due to the numerical model, but rather to the structure of the solutions themselves. Numerical results for two realistic but simplified tsunami cases are also presented. In the first case, two‐dimensional simulations are performed concerning the run‐up of a tsunami in Portugal, in the second case, the three dimensional wave pattern generated after a slide in Tafjord, Norway in 1931, is studied. A discussion of different aspects of the model is summarized at the end of the paper. Copyright © 1999 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A numerical study of the motion of a wave running up a beach

The main difficulty for the numerical calculation of the wave running up a beach is the treatment of its moving water boundary. In this paper a scheme of turning the free boundary problem into a fixed boundary problem is designed. The calculated run-up height is consistent with the experiments. Some interesting wave phenomena are also found.     

A particle finite element method applied to long wave run‐up

This paper presents a Lagrangian–Eulerian finite element formulation for solving fluid dynamics problems with moving boundaries and employs the method to long wave run‐up. The method is based on a set of Lagrangian particles which serve as moving nodes for the finite element mesh. Nodes at the moving shoreline are identified by the alpha shape concept which utilizes the distance from neighbouring nodes in different directions. An efficient triangulation technique is then used for the mesh generation at each time step. In order to validate the numerical method the code has been compared with analytical solutions and a preexisting finite difference model. The main focus of our investigation is to assess the numerical method through simulations of three‐dimensional dam break and long wave run‐up on curved beaches. Particularly the method is put to test for cases where different shoreline segments connect and produce a computational domain surrounding dry regions. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Comparisons of CIP,compact and CIP‐CSL2 schemes for reproducing internal solitary waves

Six different models were evaluated for reproducing internal solitary waves which occur and propagate in a stratified flow field with a sharp interface. Three stages were used to compute internal solitary waves in a stratified field: (1) first‐phase computation of momentum equations, (2) second‐phase computation of momentum equations, which corresponds to computing the Poisson's equation, and (3) density computation. The six models discussed in this paper consisted of combinations of four different schemes, a three‐point combined compact difference scheme (CCD), a normal central difference scheme (CDS), a cubic‐polynomial interpolation (CIP), and an exactly conservative semi‐Lagrangian scheme (CIP‐CSL2). The residual cutting method was used to solve the Poisson's equation. Three tests were used to confirm the validity of the computations using KdV theory; i.e. the incremental wave speed and amplitude of internal solitary waves, the maximum horizontal velocity and amplitude, and the wave form. In terms of the shape of an internal solitary wave, using CIP for momentum equations was found to provide better performance than CCD. These results suggest one of the most appropriate scheme for reproducing internal solitary waves may be one in which CIP is used for momentum equations and CCD to solve the Poisson's equation. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A modified Galerkin/finite element method for the numerical solution of the Serre‐Green‐Naghdi system

A new modified Galerkin/finite element method is proposed for the numerical solution of the fully nonlinear shallow water wave equations. The new numerical method allows the use of low‐order Lagrange finite element spaces, despite the fact that the system contains third order spatial partial derivatives for the depth averaged velocity of the fluid. After studying the efficacy and the conservation properties of the new numerical method, we proceed with the validation of the new numerical model and boundary conditions by comparing the numerical solutions with laboratory experiments and with available theoretical asymptotic results. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A meshless numerical wave tank for simulation of nonlinear irregular waves in shallow water

Time domain simulation of the interaction between offshore structures and irregular waves in shallow water becomes a focus due to significant increase of liquefied natural gas (LNG) terminals. To obtain the time series of irregular waves in shallow water, a numerical wave tank is developed by using the meshless method for simulation of 2D nonlinear irregular waves propagating from deep water to shallow water. Using the fundamental solution of Laplace equation as the radial basis function (RBF) and locating the source points outside the computational domain, the problem of water wave propagation is solved by collocation of boundary points. In order to improve the computation stability, both the incident wave elevation and velocity potential are applied to the wave generation. A sponge damping layer combined with the Sommerfeld radiation condition is used on the radiation boundary. The present model is applied to simulate the propagation of regular and irregular waves. The numerical results are validated by analytical solutions and experimental data and good agreements are observed. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A numerical study of the load on cylindrical piles exerted by internal solitary waves

A continuously stratified nonlinear model is employed to simulate the generation of internal solitary waves (ISWs) over a sill by tidal flows, and it is shown that the simulated ISW-induced current field basically agrees with that observed. Then the force and torque on a supposed small-diameter vertical cylindrical pile exerted by the simulated ISW packet are calculated. According to the calculation, it is found that, no matter whether the direction of the ISW-induced current is the same as that of the tidal current or not, the force exerted by the ISW would be much larger than that by only the tidal current; if the direction of the ISW-induced current is the same as that of the tidal current, then the torque exerted by the ISW would also be much larger than that by only the tidal current; whilst if the direction of the ISW-induced current is against that of the tidal current, then the torque exerted by the ISW has the same order as that exerted by only the tidal current. It is shown that, under the same conditions, the maximum force on the cylindrical pile is 6.58×10² kN, which is larger than that by the modal separation method of Cai et al., whilst the maximum torque is 2.46×10⁵ kN m, which is less than that given by Cai et al. During the passage of the ISW, the time series of the force and torque on the cylindrical pile can also be shown. Finally, the effect of the characteristics of the Gaussian sill on the force is studied, and the resulted empirical formulas on the force with the wave amplitude and the non-dimensional variable of the sill parameters are put forward.     

Well‐balanced positivity preserving central‐upwind scheme for the shallow water system with friction terms

Shallow water models are widely used to describe and study free‐surface water flow. While in some practical applications the bottom friction does not have much influence on the solutions, there are still many applications, where the bottom friction is important. In particular, the friction terms will play a significant role when the depth of the water is very small. In this paper, we study shallow water equations with friction terms and develop a semi‐discrete second‐order central‐upwind scheme that is capable of exactly preserving physically relevant steady states and maintaining the positivity of the water depth. The presence of the friction terms increases the level of complexity in numerical simulations as the underlying semi‐discrete system becomes stiff when the water depth is small. We therefore implement an efficient semi‐implicit Runge‐Kutta time integration method that sustains the well‐balanced and sign preserving properties of the semi‐discrete scheme. We test the designed method on a number of one‐dimensional and two‐dimensional examples that demonstrate robustness and high resolution of the proposed numerical approach. The data in the last numerical example correspond to the laboratory experiments reported in [L. Cea, M. Garrido, and J. Puertas, Journal of Hydrology, 382 (2010), pp. 88–102], designed to mimic the rain water drainage in urban areas containing houses. Since the rain water depth is typically several orders of magnitude smaller than the height of the houses, we develop a special technique, which helps to achieve a remarkable agreement between the numerical and experimental results. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Solution of the shallow‐water equations using an adaptive moving mesh method

This paper extends an adaptive moving mesh method to multi‐dimensional shallow water equations (SWE) with source terms. The algorithm is composed of two independent parts: the SWEs evolution and the mesh redistribution. The first part is a high‐resolution kinetic flux‐vector splitting (KFVS) method combined with the surface gradient method for initial data reconstruction, and the second part is based on an iteration procedure. In each iteration, meshes are first redistributed by a variational principle and then the underlying numerical solutions are updated by a conservative‐interpolation formula on the resulting new mesh. Several test problems in one‐ and two‐dimensions with a general geometry are computed using the proposed moving mesh algorithm. The computations demonstrate that the algorithm is efficient for solving problems with bore waves and their interactions. The solutions with higher resolution can be obtained by using a KFVS scheme for the SWEs with a much smaller number of grid points than the uniform mesh approach, although we do not treat technically the bed slope source terms in order to balance the source terms and flux gradients. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

An implicit time‐marching algorithm for shallow water models based on the generalized wave continuity equation

Wave equation models currently discretize the generalized wave continuity equation with a three‐time‐level scheme centered at k and the momentum equation with a two‐time‐level scheme centered at k+1/2; non‐linear terms are evaluated explicitly. However in highly non‐linear applications, the algorithm becomes unstable at even moderate Courant numbers. This paper examines an implicit treatment of the non‐linear terms using an iterative time‐marching algorithm. Depending on the domain, results from one‐dimensional experiments show up to a tenfold increase in stability and temporal accuracy. The sensitivity of stability to variations in the G‐parameter (a numerical weighting parameter in the generalized wave continuity equation) was examined; results show that the greatest increase in stability occurs with G/τ=2–50. In the one‐dimensional experiments, three different types of node spacing techniques—constant, variable, and LTEA (Localized Truncation Error Analysis)—were examined; stability is positively correlated to the uniformity of the node spacing. Lastly, a scaling analysis demonstrates that the magnitudes of the non‐linear terms are positively correlated to those that most influence stability, particularly the term containing the G‐parameter. It is evident that the new algorithm improves stability and temporal accuracy in a cost‐effective manner. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A simple three‐wave approximate Riemann solver for the Saint‐Venant‐Exner equations

Erosion and sediments transport processes have a great impact on industrial structures and on water quality. Despite its limitations, the Saint‐Venant‐Exner system is still (and for sure for some years) widely used in industrial codes to model the bedload sediment transport. In practice, its numerical resolution is mostly handled by a splitting technique that allows a weak coupling between hydraulic and morphodynamic distinct softwares but may suffer from important stability issues. In recent works, many authors proposed alternative methods based on a strong coupling that cure this problem but are not so trivial to implement in an industrial context. In this work, we then pursue 2 objectives. First, we propose a very simple scheme based on an approximate Riemann solver, respecting the strong coupling framework, and we demonstrate its stability and accuracy through a number of numerical test cases. However, second, we reinterpret our scheme as a splitting technique and we extend the purpose to propose what should be the minimal coupling that ensures the stability of the global numerical process in industrial codes, at least, when dealing with collocated finite volume method. The resulting splitting method is, up to our knowledge, the only one for which stability properties are fully demonstrated.     

Experimental and numerical analysis of solitary waves generated by bed and boundary movements

This paper is an experimental and numerical study about propagation and reflection of waves originated by natural hazards such as sea bottom movements, hill slope sliding and avalanches. One‐dimensional flume experiments were conducted to study the characteristics of such waves. The results of the experimental study can be used by other researchers to verify their numerical models. A finite volume numerical model, which solves the shallow water equations, was also verified using our own experimental results. In order to deal with reflection on sloping surfaces and overtopping walls, a new condition for the treatment of the coastline is suggested. The numerical simulation of wave generation is also studied considering the bed movement. A boundary condition is proposed for this case. Those situations when the shallow water equations are valid to simulate this type of phenomena have been studied, as well as their limitations. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Hybrid finite‐volume finite‐difference scheme for the solution of Boussinesq equations

A hybrid scheme composed of finite‐volume and finite‐difference methods is introduced for the solution of the Boussinesq equations. While the finite‐volume method with a Riemann solver is applied to the conservative part of the equations, the higher‐order Boussinesq terms are discretized using the finite‐difference scheme. Fourth‐order accuracy in space for the finite‐volume solution is achieved using the MUSCL‐TVD scheme. Within this, four limiters have been tested, of which van‐Leer limiter is found to be the most suitable. The Adams–Basforth third‐order predictor and Adams–Moulton fourth‐order corrector methods are used to obtain fourth‐order accuracy in time. A recently introduced surface gradient technique is employed for the treatment of the bottom slope. A new model ‘HYWAVE’, based on this hybrid solution, has been applied to a number of wave propagation examples, most of which are taken from previous studies. Examples include sinusoidal waves and bi‐chromatic wave propagation in deep water, sinusoidal wave propagation in shallow water and sinusoidal wave propagation from deep to shallow water demonstrating the linear shoaling properties of the model. Finally, sinusoidal wave propagation over a bar is simulated. The results are in good agreement with the theoretical expectations and published experimental results. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A parametric finite‐difference method for shallow sea waves

This paper presents a parametric finite‐difference scheme concerning the numerical solution of the one‐dimensional Boussinesq‐type set of equations, as they were introduced by Peregrine (J. Fluid Mech. 1967; 27 (4)) in the case of waves relatively long with small amplitudes in water of varying depth. The proposed method, which can be considered as a generalization of the Crank‐Nickolson method, aims to investigate alternative approaches in order to improve the accuracy of analogous methods known from bibliography. The resulting linear finite‐difference scheme, which is analysed for stability using the Fourier method, has been applied successfully to a problem used by Beji and Battjes (Coastal Eng. 1994; 23 : 1–16), giving numerical results which are in good agreement with the corresponding results given by MIKE 21 BW (User Guide. In: MIKE 21, Wave Modelling, User Guide. 2002; 271–392) developed by DHI Software. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Impact of mass lumping on gravity and Rossby waves in 2D finite‐element shallow‐water models

The goal of this study is to evaluate the effect of mass lumping on the dispersion properties of four finite‐element velocity/surface‐elevation pairs that are used to approximate the linear shallow‐water equations. For each pair, the dispersion relation, obtained using the mass lumping technique, is computed and analysed for both gravity and Rossby waves. The dispersion relations are compared with those obtained for the consistent schemes (without lumping) and the continuous case. The P₀?P₁, RT₀ and P?P₁ pairs are shown to preserve good dispersive properties when the mass matrix is lumped. Test problems to simulate fast gravity and slow Rossby waves are in good agreement with the analytical results. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Similarities between the quasi‐bubble and the generalized wave continuity equation solutions to the shallow water equations

Two common strategies for solving the shallow water equations in the finite element community are the generalized wave continuity equation (GWCE) reformulation and the quasi‐bubble velocity approximation. The GWCE approach has been widely analysed in the literature. In this work, the quasi‐bubble equations are analysed and comparisons are made between the quasi‐bubble approximation of the primitive form of the shallow water equations and a linear finite element approximation of the GWCE reformulation of the shallow water equations. The discrete condensed quasi‐bubble continuity equation is shown to be identical to a discrete wave equation for a specific GWCE weighting parameter value. The discrete momentum equations are slightly different due to the bubble function. In addition, the dispersion relationships are shown to be almost identical and numerical experiments confirm that the two schemes compute almost identical results. Analysis of the quasi‐bubble formulation suggests a relationship that may guide selection of the optimal GWCE weighting parameter. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A well‐balanced weighted essentially non‐oscillatory scheme for pollutant transport in shallow water

In this paper, a well‐balanced finite difference weighted essentially non‐oscillatory scheme is presented for modeling transport and diffusion of pollutant in shallow water flows. The scheme balances exactly the flux gradients and the source terms. Extensive one‐dimensional and two‐dimensional numerical experiments on uniform and curvilinear meshes strongly suggest that high resolution results are achieved for both water depth and pollutant concentration. The scheme is efficient and robust and can be applied to practical numerical simulation of pollutant transport phenomena in shallow water flows. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Depth‐integrated,non‐hydrostatic model with grid nesting for tsunami generation,propagation, and run‐up

Tsunamis generated by earthquakes involve physical processes of different temporal and spatial scales that extend across the ocean to the shore. This paper presents a shock‐capturing dispersive wave model in the spherical coordinate system for basin‐wide evolution and coastal run‐up of tsunamis and discusses the implementation of a two‐way grid‐nesting scheme to describe the wave dynamics at resolution compatible to the physical processes. The depth‐integrated model describes dispersive waves through the non‐hydrostatic pressure and vertical velocity, which also account for tsunami generation from dynamic seafloor deformation. The semi‐implicit, finite difference model captures flow discontinuities associated with bores or hydraulic jumps through the momentum‐conserved advection scheme with an upwind flux approximation. The two‐way grid‐nesting scheme utilizes the Dirichlet condition of the non‐hydrostatic pressure and both the horizontal velocity and surface elevation at the inter‐grid boundary to ensure propagation of dispersive waves and discontinuities across computational grids of different resolution. The inter‐grid boundary can adapt to bathymetric features to model nearshore wave transformation processes at optimal resolution and computational efficiency. A coordinate transformation enables application of the model to small geographic regions or laboratory experiments with a Cartesian grid. A depth‐dependent Gaussian function smoothes localized bottom features in relation to the water depth while retaining the bathymetry important for modeling of tsunami transformation and run‐up. Numerical experiments of solitary wave propagation and N‐wave run‐up verify the implementation of the grid‐nesting scheme. The 2009 Samoa Tsunami provides a case study to confirm the validity and effectiveness of the modeling approach for tsunami research and impact assessment. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The improved space–time conservation element and solution element scheme for two‐dimensional dam‐break flow simulation

A new numerical scheme, namely space–time conservation element and solution element (CE/SE) method, has been used for the solution of the two‐dimensional (2D) dam‐break problem. Distinguishing from the well‐established traditional numerical methods (such as characteristics, finite difference, finite element, and finite‐volume methods), the CE/SE scheme has many non‐traditional features in both concept and methodology: space and time are treated in a unified way, which is the most important characteristic for the CE/SE method; the CEs and SEs are introduced, both local and global flux conservations in space and time rather than space only are enforced; an explicit scheme with a stagger grid is adopted. Furthermore, this scheme is robust and easy to implement. In this paper, an improved CE/SE scheme is extended to solve the 2D shallow water equations with the source terms, which usually plays a critical role in dam‐break flows. To demonstrate the accuracy, robustness and efficiency of the improved CE/SE method, both 1D and 2D dam‐break problems are simulated numerically, and the results are consistent with either the analytical solutions or experimental results. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A 2D implicit time‐marching algorithm for shallow water models based on the generalized wave continuity equation

This paper builds upon earlier work that developed and evaluated a 1D predictor–corrector time‐marching algorithm for wave equation models and extends it to 2D. Typically, the generalized wave continuity equation (GWCE) utilizes a three time‐level semi‐implicit scheme centred at k, and the momentum equation uses a two time‐level scheme centred at k+12. It has been shown that in highly non‐linear applications, the algorithm becomes unstable at even moderate Courant numbers. This work implements and analyses an implicit treatment of the non‐linear terms through the use of an iterative time‐marching algorithm in the two‐dimensional framework. Stability results show at least an eight‐fold increase in the maximum time step, depending on the domain. Studies also examined the sensitivity of the G parameter (a numerical weighting parameter in the GWCE) with results showing the greatest increase in stability occurs when 1?G/τ_max?10, a range that coincides with the recommended range to minimize errors. Convergence studies indicate an increase in temporal accuracy from first order to second order, while overall error is less than the original algorithm, even at higher time steps. Finally, a parallel implementation of the new algorithm shows that it scales well. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.