Reapplication improves the amount of sunscreen, not its regularity, under real life conditions

The sun protection factor (SPF) of sunscreens is determined using samples applied with a thickness of 2 mg cm(-2). Sunscreen users, however, typically apply sunscreen nonuniformly and in smaller amounts. The objective of our study was to verify whether sunscreen reapplication increases the amount and regularity of the product on the skin. Volunteers were asked to apply an SPF 6 sunscreen on their forearms and reapply it 30 min later on one forearm. Tape-strips were used to collect five samples from two different sites on each forearm. The concentration of benzophenone-3 in the samples was measured and the total amount of sunscreen was estimated using high-performance liquid chromatography. The median amount of sunscreen film was 0.43 mg cm(-2) (0.17-1.07) after one application and 0.95 mg cm(-2) (0.18-1.91) after two applications (P = 0.002). No significant difference was found in the film uniformity. Though sunscreen reapplication increases the amount of product on the skin, levels are still lower than the recommended amount, confirming that the protection level is less than the product-stated SPF. Our results are the first in the literature to support the recommendation for reapplying sunscreens. Based on our results, we recommend that sunscreens be labeled using qualitative measures.     

Light source spectrum strongly influences the in vitro estimation of sun protection factor

Irradiation from an artificial solar simulator that matches the relative cumulative erythema effectiveness (RCEE) of sunlight is used for in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) testing, whereas irradiation that matches the spectrum of natural sunlight (NS) is generally used for in vitro SPF testing. This study was designed to clarify whether this difference is important. Eight sunscreens spread on artificial substrates and several optical filters as sunscreen mimics were used. Their in vitro SPF values were evaluated using RCEE-compliant and NS spectrum-matching light sources in calculation. The calculated in vitro SPF values obtained using NS light (SPF [NS]) were lower than those obtained using RCEE light (SPF [RCEE]). The in vitro SPF (RCEE) values showed a better correlation and better agreement with in vivo SPF values, as compared with the in vitro SPF (NS) values. A marked difference between in vitro SPF values obtained with the two light sources in calculation was found for sunscreens showing low transmittance in the ultraviolet B region. To obtain in vitro SPF values that correspond well to in vivo SPF values measured with currently accepted methodology, it is important to use an RCEE-compliant light source.     

Design of a photostabilizer having built-in antioxidant functionality and its utility in obtaining broad-spectrum sunscreen formulations

Di-2,2'-diethylhexyl-3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxy-benzylidenemalonate (INCI name diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate, DESM), the target photostabilizer, was synthesized in one step by condensation of 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxy benzaldehyde (Syringaldehyde) with di-2,2'-diethylhexyl malonate. Photostability data in sunscreen formulations showed that DESM is photostable and improves the photostability of avobenzone significantly when compared to control (without a photostabilizer). Photostable broad-spectrum sunscreen formulations with high SPF (>30) have been achieved by combining avobenzone, DESM and UV-B sunscreens, such as homosalate, octisalate or other UV-B sunscreens. It seems that (a) triplet-state energy transfer from avobenzone to DESM and (b) scavenging of reactive species are responsible for the observed stabilization of avobenzone. In vitro study of the two formulations containing DESM clearly showed critical wavelength of well over 370 nm and can thus be categorized as broad-spectrum sunscreens. DESM does not have any contribution to in vivo SPF; instead it boosts SPF by about 5 units in high-SPF products. DESM was found to be an excellent singlet-oxygen quencher, thereby reducing photodegradation of avobenzone caused by singlet oxygen. In short, the multiplicity of effects and formulation benefits seen with DESM makes it an ideal choice as a unique antioxidant photostabilizer for a variety of cosmetic products targeting young and mature skin alike.     

Darkness at noon: sunscreens and vitamin D3

We are assured by responsible scientific and governmental organizations that sunscreens should be routinely worn to reduce skin cancer risk. We are also advised that wearing sunscreens will not hinder our ability to produce sufficient previtamin D3 (preD3) from casual sunlight exposure. We report the examination of a series of 166 solar spectra, obtained on different days throughout a year, evaluated for erythemic and preD3 effectiveness and the relative effects of recommended Sun protection factor (SPF) 15 sunscreen. The results show that the sunscreen is much more effective in blocking the formation of preD3, than its labeled SPF for preventing sunburn. In fact with sunscreen applied only miniscule amounts of preD3 are predicted to be made outdoors even with extensive exposure. This raises important questions regarding the safest way to use sunlight exposure to promote healthy vitamin D3 levels and suggests the need to modify the public safety "Safe Sun" messages.     

Evaluation of sunscreen protection in human melanocytes exposed to UVA or UVB irradiation using the alkaline comet assay

The in vivo assessment of sunscreen protection does not include the photogenotoxicity of UVA or UVB solar radiation. Using the comet assay we have developed a simple and rapid technique to quantify sunscreen efficacy against DNA damage induced by UV light. Cutaneous human melanocytes from primary cultures were embedded in low-melting point (LPM) agarose and exposed to UVA (0.8 J/cm2) or to UVB (0.06 J/cm2) through a quartz slide covered with 10 microL volumes of sunscreens. DNA single-strand breaks induced directly by UVA at 4 degrees C and indirectly through nucleotide excision repair by UVB following a 35 min incubation period at 37 degrees C were quantified using the comet assay. Tail moments (TM) (tail length x %tail DNA) of 100 cells/sample were determined by image analysis. DNA damage was evaluated with a nonlinear regression analysis on the normalized distribution frequencies of TM using a chi 2 function. The coefficients of genomic protection (CGP) were defined as the percentage of inhibition of DNA lesions caused by the sunscreens. Twenty-one sunscreens were evaluated, and the calculated CGP were compared with the in vivo sun protective factor (SPF) and with the protection factor UVA (PFA). Nonlinear relationships were found between SPF and CGPUVB and between PFA and CGPUVA.     

Relevance of sunscreen application method, visible light and sunlight intensity to free-radical protection: A study of ex vivo human skin

With the continued rise in skin cancers worldwide there is a need for effective skin protection against sunlight damage. It was shown previously that sunscreens, which claimed UVA protection (SPF 20+), provided limited protection against UV-induced ascorbate radicals in human skin. Here the results of an electron spin resonance (ESR) investigation to irradiate ex vivo human skin with solar-simulated light are reported. The ascorbate radical signal in the majority of skin samples was directly proportional to the irradiance over relevant sunlight intensities (0.9-2.9 mW cm(-2)). Radical production (substratum-corneum) by UV (wavelengths < 400 nm) and visible components (> 400 nm) was approximately 67% and 33% respectively. Ascorbate radicals were in steady state concentration at low irradiance (approximately 1 mW cm(-2) equivalent to UK sunlight), but at higher irradiance (approximately 3 mW cm(-2)) decreased with time, suggesting ascorbate depletion. Radical protection by a four star-rated sunscreen (with UVA protection) was optimal when applied as a thin film (40-60% at 2 mg cm(-2)) but less so when rubbed into the skin (37% at 4 mg cm(-2) and no significant protection at 2 mg cm(-2)), possibly due to cream filling crevices, which reduced film thickness. This study validates ESR determinations of the ascorbate radical for quantitative protection measurements. Visible light contribution to radical production, and loss of protection when sunscreen is rubbed into skin, has implications for sunscreen design and use for the prevention of free-radical damage.     

Algorithm for in vitro Sun Protection Factor based on transmission spectrum measurement with concomitant evaluation of photostability

In the in vitro evaluation of Sun Protection Factor (SPF), the photostability of the ultraviolet (UV) filters can have a major impact, especially for high-SPF formulations, but is generally not taken into consideration. In this study, we present a UV transmission spectrum measurement system utilizing a high-sensitivity UV photomultiplier tube with concomitant evaluation of photostability. We have developed an algorithm to estimate SPF in vitro by converting the amount of UV light transmission through the sunscreen layer into cumulative relative erythema effectiveness to obtain one minimal erythema dose. Thus, the algorithm uses the same endpoint as in vivo SPF methods, but with a photomultiplier tube as the detector instead of skin. The values obtained showed an excellent correlation with in vivo SPF values, even for high-SPF sunscreens exceeding SPF 50. This method should be suitable as an in vitro SPF testing method for regulatory purposes.     

Photostabilization of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate by bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), a new UV broadband filter

It is now well documented that chronic UVA exposure induces damage to human skin. Therefore, modern sunscreens should not only provide protection from both UVB and UVA radiation but also maintain this protection during the entire period of exposure to the sun. UVA filters, however, are rare and not sufficiently photostable. We investigated the effect of the introduction of a new UV filter, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), in oil in water sunscreen formulations on the photostability of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone [AVB]) after irradiation with an optically filtered Xenon arc source (UV irradiance adjusted at 1 mean effective dose [MED]/min). With spectrophotometrical methods to assess the sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA ratio and chromatographical methods to determine the amount of UV filters recovered after irradiation we showed that Tinosorb S prevented the photodegradation of AVB in a concentration-dependent way, leading to a sustained SPF and UVA ratio even after irradiation with doses of up to 30 MED. Since AVB was shown to destabilize ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHM) we tested the effect of Tinosorb S in sunscreens containing this UV filter combination. Here too Tinosorb S showed photoprotective properties toward both UV filters. Thus, Tinosorb S can be used successfully to improve the photostability and efficiency of sunscreens containing AVB and EHM.     

Alternative methods to evaluate the protective ability of sunscreen against photo-genotoxicity

Numerous epidemiological investigations show that sunlight is carcinogenic to humans and that the use of sunscreen may be effective in decreasing the risk of skin cancer. The biological activity of a sunscreen is evaluated by its ability to protect human skin from erythema as represented by a Sun Protection Factor (SPF). We propose that the sunscreen's protective effect against sunlight-induced genotoxicity, including mutation, should also be taken into account. In this study we examined the protective ability of sunscreens against natural sunlight and UV-induced genotoxicity in Drosophila somatic cells. We prepared three kinds of sunscreen samples, each with an SPF value of 20, 40 or 60 and compared their protective activities with commercial sunscreens. When a sunscreen of SPF 20, 40 or 60 was pasted on the plastic cover of a petri dish in which Drosophila larvae were exposed to the sun or UV lamps, genotoxicity decreased as the SPF of the sunscreen increased, relative to levels of genotoxicity observed in samples without sunscreen. However, the protective abilities of sunscreens were unexpectedly not so different from each other. To reveal the relationship between the protective activity of sunscreen and the wavelength of light with which larvae were irradiated through the sunscreen, we measured the transmittance of light through the petri dish cover on which the sunscreen was pasted. Effective protection was demonstrated by removing components of light whose wavelengths were below 315 nm. We suggest, that the measurement of anti-genotoxic activity and the determination of the wavelengths of light transmitted through the sunscreen should be an alternative method for evaluating the effectiveness of a sunscreen.     

Assessment of the photoprotection properties of sunscreens by chromatographic measurement of DNA damage in skin explants

Evaluation of the photoprotection provided by sunscreens is performed either through the induction of erythema and expressed as the sun protection factor (SPF), or by the UVA-mediated persistent pigment darkening (PPD). None of these two endpoints has a link with skin cancer, the most deleterious consequence of excess exposure to solar UV radiation. We thus set up a complementary approach to evaluate the protection provided by sunscreens to the genome of human skin. This is based on the quantification of the thymine cyclobutane dimer (TT-CPD), the main DNA lesion induced by both UVB and UVA radiations. Irradiations were performed ex vivo on human skin explants and the level of TT-CPD in DNA was determined by HPLC associated with tandem mass spectrometry. The technique was first optimized and validated with three standard sunscreens. The study was then extended to the evaluation of a commercial high SPF sunscreen exhibiting efficient UVA photoprotection. The DNA protecting factor was found to reflect the ratio between UVB and UVA photoprotection, although the absolute values of the genomic protection were, as a general trend, lower than either SPF or PPD. These data show the usefulness of the proposed approach for the evaluation of the genoprotection afforded by sunscreens.     

Phototoxic properties of perfumes containing bergamot oil on human skin: photoprotective effect of UVA and UVB sunscreens

As part of an international cooperative study of the photophysical, photomutagenic and photocarcinogenic properties of bergamot oil and the effect of UVA and UVB sunscreens, the phototoxic properties of model perfumes containing 5, 15 and 50 ppm 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP) in bergamot oil with and without a sunscreen have been investigated on human skin. It has been confirmed that the photosensitivity of human skin is maximal 2 h after perfume application. Interestingly the addition of a UVA sunscreen is more efficient for decreasing the phototoxic properties of bergamot oil than is a UVB sunscreen. The addition of sunscreens in a model perfume containing 50 ppm 5-MOP in bergamot oil can reduce the phototoxic properties of this perfume to a toxicity equivalent to that produced by the application of a model perfume containing 15 ppm 5-MOP without sunscreens. However, despite their promising protective effect in vitro, UVB and UVA sunscreens at low concentration (0.5%-1%) in perfumes cannot suppress the phototoxicity of bergamot oil on human skin.     

In vitro measurement of sun protection factor of sunscreens by diffuse transmittance

The measurement of sunscreens using an in vitro technique that correlates to in vivo measurements has been proposed for many years. In vivo testing, where human volunteers are subjected to potentially damaging and carcinogenic doses of ultraviolet radiation, has been the method of choice by regulatory agencies for determining the efficacy of sunscreens to protect humans from both sunburn (solar erythema) and potential skin cancers related to high UV doses. The problems with in vitro measurements are many fold. A normal spectrophotometer cannot accurately capture the transmitted light from a sunscreen, since both the media and the sunscreen may scatter the incident and transmitted radiation. Secondly, a suitable substrate for dispersing the potential sun protective agent must be found – a material that transmits sufficiently over the range of interest of measurement but also has a texture similar to the human epidermis to allow for proper dispersion of the sunscreen.

This paper will discuss the theory of measurement of diffuse transmittance measurements, including the various instrument geometries used to make such measurements. It will also address the calculations required to convert transmittance values to that of sun protection factor. Finally, there is a discussion of substrates for in vitro measurements.     

A Review of Sunscreen Safety and Efficacy

The use of sunscreen products has been advocated by many health care practitioners as a means to reduce skin damage produced by ultraviolet radiation (UVR) from sunlight. There is a need to better understand the efficacy and safety of sunscreen products given this ongoing campaign encouraging their use. The approach used to establish sunscreen efficacy, sun protection factor (SPF), is a useful assessment of primarily UVB (290–320 nm) filters. The SPF test, however, does not adequately assess the complete photoprotective profile of sunscreens specifically against long wavelength UVAI (340–400 nm). Moreover, to date, there is no singular, agreed upon method for evaluating UVA efficacy despite the immediate and seemingly urgent consumer need to develop sunscreen products that provide broad-spectrum UVB and UVA photoprotection. With regard to the safety of UVB and UVA filters, the current list of commonly used organic and inorganic sunscreens has favorable toxico-logical profiles based on acute, subchronic and chronic animal or human studies. Further, in most studies, sunscreens have been shown to prevent the damaging effects of UVR exposure. Thus, based on this review of currently available data, it is concluded that sunscreen ingredients or products do not pose a human health concern. Further, the regular use of appropriate broad-spectrum sunscreen products could have a significant and favorable impact on public health as part of an overall strategy to reduce UVR exposure.     

Sunscreen isn't enough.

Topical sunscreens act by absorbing or scattering UV radiation and are widely available for general public use as a consumer product. Surveys carried out in the UK find that sunscreen use is regarded as the most important, and by implication the most effective, sun protection measure. But is perception borne out by reality? Sunscreens applied at the thickness tested by manufacturers need only possess an SPF of 15 to prevent sunburn even for all day exposure in tropical sunshine. Yet behavioural studies show that high SPF (>15) sunscreens do not always prevent sunburn. That the protection achieved is often less than that expected depends upon a number of factors: application thickness and technique; type of sunscreen applied; resistance to water immersion and sand abrasion; and when, where and how often sunscreen is re-applied. These factors provide ample evidence that the numerical measure of protection indicated on the product pack is generally higher than achieved in practice. This mismatch between expectation and realisation may be one contributing factor why sunscreens have been reported to be a risk factor in melanoma.     

The feasibility of using fluorescence spectroscopy as a rapid, non-invasive method for evaluating sunscreen performance

We have carried out ex vivo studies to examine the feasibility of using fluorescence spectroscopy as an in vivo quantitative technique to assess sunscreen substantivity in terms of skin surface thickness and/or photoprotection. We found that the majority of sunscreens produced insufficient natural fluorescence and so we have attempted to increase the fluorescent signal by adding various fluorescing agents to the sunscreens. However, none of these substances is ideal; either they do not bind sufficiently strongly to sunscreen products, or their fluorescence is quenched by the active ingredients contained within sunscreens. The feasibility of using fluorescence spectroscopy for in vivo quantitative assessments of sunscreen substantivity therefore remains unproved and is dependent on a suitable fluorescent agent being found. Such an agent would have to be non-toxic, mix readily with sunscreens and be excited by visible wavelengths.     

Photoprotective effects of methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane

A new sunscreen ingredient, methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane (MCP-PSQ), which contains an UV-absorbing p-methoxycinnamoyl group, has been developed synthetically and evaluated using in vitro and in vivo approaches. Previous studies revealed that MCP-PSQ has a raising or boosting effect on the sun protection factor (SPF) of other sunscreen agents. In this study, we demonstrated that MCP-PSQ, an organic/inorganic hybrid compound, has photoprotective effects for human fibroblasts, and for hairless mouse and human skin. MCP-PSQ increases cell viability and suppresses the expression of p53 protein in fibroblasts after UV exposure. In addition, the numbers of sunburn cells and mast cells are reduced by topical application of MCP-PSQ on hairless mouse skin after UV irradiation. A 10% MCP-PSQ cream has higher and similar effects on SPF values for human skin compared to 5% titanium dioxide (TiO(2)) and 5% ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), respectively. The SPF value obtained using the MCP-PSQ cream did not drop after UV irradiation of the cream itself. However, higher dose of UV irradiation is required to guarantee the stability or photostability of the formulation. Further, there were no side effects such as erythema, edema, itch or tingling, suggesting that MCP-PSQ is a good sunscreen agent.     

A rapid method for determining recent sunscreen use in field studies

The role of sunscreens in preventing skin cancer and melanoma is the focus of ongoing research. Currently, there is no objective measure which can be used in field studies to determine whether a person has applied sunscreen to their skin, and researchers must use indirect assessments such as questionnaires. We sought to develop a rapid, non-invasive method for identifying sunscreen on the skin for use in epidemiological studies. Our basic method is to swab the skin, elute any residues which have been adsorbed onto the swab by rinsing in ethanol, and submit the eluted washings for spectrophotometric analysis. In a controlled study, we applied 0.1 ml of sunscreen to a 50 cm(2) grid on both forearms of 21 volunteers. Each forearm was allocated one of 10 different sunscreen brands. The skin was swabbed after intervals of 20 min, 1 h, 2 h and 4 h. In a field study conducted among 12 children aged 2-4 years attending a child care centre, sunscreen was applied to the faces of half the children. Swabs were then taken from the face and back of all children without knowledge of sunscreen status. In the controlled study, sunscreen was clearly detectable up to 2 h after application for all brands containing organic sunscreen, and marginally detectable at 4 h. In the field study, this method correctly identified all children with and without sunscreen. We conclude that spectrophotometric analysis of skin swabs can reliably detect the presence of sunscreen on the skin for up to 2 h after application.     

Measurements of the Protective Effect of Topically Applied Sunscreens using in vitro Three-dimensional Dermal and Skin Equivalents

Abstract— For preventing or minimizing acute and chronic skin damage caused by UV radiation, the use of sunscreens is probably the most important measure. To screen the protective efficacy of new sunscreen molecules or formulations against UV rays, we evaluated as in vitro testing methods the use of two three-dimensional models, a dermal equivalent (DE) and a skin equivalent (SE). The DE is composed of a porous collagen-glycosaminoglycans-chitosan matrix populated by normal human fibroblasts. The SE is comprised of a fully differentiated epidermis realized by seeding keratinocytes onto the DE. In this study, we demonstrated that the DE and SE models react to the deleterious effects of UVA and UVB. Then, we extended our research to the evaluation of their usefulness for photoprotection trials. Sunscreen agents (Euso-lex 8020 and 6300) and commercially available sunscreens (chemical and physical filter formulations) that protect the skin against either UVA or UVB were evaluated. The tested products were applied (n = 6) topically (10 μL) and incubated for 30 min prior to irradiation over a range of UVA (0-50 J/cm²) or UVB (0-5 J/cm²). The photoprotection provided by the tested sunscreen molecules and formulations was evaluated by measurement of residual cellular viability 24 h postirradiation using the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetra-zolium bromide (MTT) test and assessment of the inflammation response by interleukin-la release assay. When sunscreens were applied prior to UV exposure, a higher residual cellular viability versus control was obtained, demonstrating the photoprotective effects of the tested products. These in vitro models could be used for screening tests to evaluate the protective effects of sunscreen molecules and formulations, especially for UVA trials because there is a lack of consensus for an in vivo method.