Investigation of crimson-dyed fibres for a new approach on the characterization of cochineal and kermes dyes in historical textiles

The colorant behaviour of cochineal and kermes insect dyes in 141 experimentally-dyed and 28 artificially-aged samples of silk and wool was investigated using ultra-high performance liquid chromatography coupled to photodiode array detector (UHPLC-PDA), liquid chromatography electrospray ionisation mass spectrometry (LC-ESI-MS) and image scanning electron microscopy – energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX). Partial-least squares discriminant analysis (PLS-DA) was then used to model the acquired UHPLC-PDA data and assess the possibility of discriminating cochineal insect species, as well as their correspondent dyed and aged reference fibres. The resulting models helped to characterize a set of 117 red samples from 95 historical textiles, in which UHPLC-PDA analyses have reported the presence of cochineal and kermes insect dyes.     

Identification of naphthoquinonic and anthraquinonic dyes via sequential potential steps applied to the voltammetry of microparticles methodology

An electrochemical method for identifying anthraquinonic, naphthoquinonic, and related dyes in microsamples is reported. This method is based on the sequential application of oxidative and reductive constant-potential polarization steps coupled with the record of square wave voltammograms to solid microsamples of dyes in contact with aqueous electrolytes. As a result, oxidized/reduced products form a layer on the lateral faces of the dye crystals as suggested by attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and atomic force microscopy data. This methodology is applied for characterizing alizarin, purpurin, and natural dyes aloe, cochineal red, madder lake, kermes, shellac, and henna attached to paraffin-impregnated graphite electrodes in contact with aqueous potassium phosphate buffer.     

Electrochemical identification of anthraquinone-based dyes in solid microsamples by square wave voltammetry using graphite/polyester composite electrodes.

An electrochemical method for identifying anthraquinone-type dyes in microsamples from works of art, based in the voltammetry of microparticles approach, is reported. Upon attachment onto graphite/polyester composite electrodes, natural pigments aloe, henna, cochineal red, madder lake, kermes, shellac, and alizarin and purpurin taken as reference materials can be identified from their square wave voltammetric profiles in MeCN (0.10 mol L(-1) Bu(4)NPF(6)) and aqueous (0.25 mol L(-1) acetic acid+0.25 mol L(-1) sodium acetate) electrolytes.     

Identification of anthraquinone coloring matters in natural red dyes by electrospray mass spectrometry coupled to capillary electrophoresis

Capillary electrophoresis with UV/visible diode-array detection (DAD) and electrospray mass spectrometric (ESI-MS) detection were used for the identification of anthraquinone color components of cochineal, lac-dye and madder, natural red dyestuffs often used by ancient painters. For the purpose of such analysis, ESI-MS was found to be a much more appropriate detection technique than DAD one owing to its higher sensitivity (detection limits in the range 0.1-0.5 micro g ml(-1)) and selectivity. The method developed made it possible to identify unequivocally carminic acid and laccaic acids A, B and E as coloring matters in the examined preparations of cochineal and lac-dye, respectively. In madder, European Rubia tinctorum, alizarin and purpurin were found. The method allows the rapid, direct and straightforward identification and quantification of components of natural products used in art and could be very helpful in restoration and conservation procedures.     

A precise self-built secondary mass database for identifying red dyes and dyeing techniques with UPLC-MS/MS

Dyes on ancient silks have been a worth studying field through human's history, although current reports ignore the connection between natural dyes origin and relevant colour reduction methods, which poses an insurmountable obstacle for restoration of historical silks. In this paper, a series of 12 red hue silks from six natural dyes (sappanwood, Chinese madder, safflower, lac, cochineal, dragon's blood) via three different dyeing techniques were used to establish a self-built precise tandem mass spectrometry (MS/MS) database. With organic solvent extracting on those manual-dyed silks, ultraperformance liquid chromatography - electrospray ionization - quadrupole time of flight mass spectrometry (UPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS) was utilized to form preliminary MS database for screening and identifying of the potential dyes compounds without standard references. Furthermore, combining the targeted MS/MS mode and the matching threshold of 70.00, a self-built secondary MS/MS database was successfully established, which contains 33 compounds, 32 chromatograms and 32 MS/MS fragments. As for real sample application, the self-built precise MS/MS database had revealed that the dyes on two historical silks (Shanghai Museum, China) belong to Chinese madder just with different mordant dyeing ordinal. Additionally, by experimental restoration, visually indistinguishable silks (ΔE_ab* < 1.5 NBS) were successfully restored. This explorative methodology can further inspire the traceability of biological dyestuffs, which lays instructive foundation on protection and restoration of artefacts, connecting the archaeological science and human art.     

High-performance liquid chromatographic determination of colouring matters in historical garments from the Holy Mountain of Athos

This work is probably the first attempt to identify the organic colouring materials contained in post-Byzantine textiles, from the Holy Mountain of Athos. Samples extracted from seven ecclesiastical garments (15th–19th century) are investigated by high performance liquid chromatography with UV-Vis diode array detection. The detection limits for alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, laccaic acid A, luteolin, apigenin, genistein, fisetin, sulfuretin, ellagic acid, indigotin and indirubin are found to be within 0.002–0.029 μg mL⁻¹. The following organic dyes are identified in the extracts: dyer’s broom (Genista tinctoria L.), young fustic (Cotinus coggygria Scop.), an indigoid dye source either indigo (Indigofera species) or woad (Isatis tinctoria L.), madder, cochineal and lac dye (Kerria lacca Kerr). Furthermore, the identification of a brazilein derivative indicates the presence of a Caesalpinia dye source in the samples. Correspondence: Ioannis Karapanagiotis, Ormylia Art Diagnosis Center, Sacred Convent of the Annunciation, Ormylia, GR-63071 Chalkidiki, Greece     

Structure elucidation and chromatographic identification of anthraquinone components of cochineal (Dactylopius coccus) detected in historical objects

Cochineal is one of the most well known organic red dyes. Dactylopius coccus Costa (Dactylopiidae) is a scale insect that is used as the source of the dye known as Mexican cochineal. Although cochineal is today a natural food colorant (E120) and although it has been used in art objects (textiles and paintings) for centuries, its exact chemical consistency is not well clarified except for carminic acid which is the major component and kermesic and flavokermesic acids. Several minor components (typically less than 5% of the colouring material) remained unknown or partially studied, although their presence has been reported in numerous analytical works related to art objects. Chemical investigation of the methanol extract of the dried insects, after subsequent HPLC chromatographic separations, led to the isolation and structure elucidation of six new anthraquinones, along with the known compounds carminic acid, kermesic acid and flavokermesic acid. The new compounds formerly described as DCII and DCIII, were found to be the 2-C-glucoside of flavokermesic acid and 4-aminocarminic acid, respectively, while DCIV and DCVII were found to be the α/β C-glucofuranosides of kermesic acid, and were studied as a mixture due to equilibrium. In addition, 3-O-glucoside of flavokermesic acid (DCOFK), and 3,4-dideoxycarminic acid (DDCA) were identified. The structures of the new compounds were elucidated on the basis of their NMR and MS data. Finally, the new compounds were detected in silk dyed with cochineal, lake pigment and, furthermore, in historical objects of the cultural heritage (icon and textile) using LC–DAD and LC–MS.     

Analysis of natural red dyes (cochineal) in textiles of historical importance using HPLC and multivariate data analysis

A new analytical approach based on high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detector (HPLC-DAD) and multivariate data analysis was applied and assessed for analyzing the red dye extracted from cochineal insects, used in precious historical textiles. The most widely used method of analysis involves quantification of specific minor compounds (markers), using HPLC-DAD. However, variation in the cochineal markers concentration, use of aggressive dye extraction methods and poor resolution of HPLC chromatograms can compromise the identification of the precise insect species used in the textiles. In this study, a soft extraction method combined with a new dye recovery treatment was developed, capable of yielding HPLC chromatograms with good resolution, for the first time, for historical cochineal-dyed textiles. After principal components analysis (PCA) and mass spectrometry (MS), it was possible to identify the cochineal species used in these textiles, in contrast to the accepted method of analysis. In order to compare both methodologies, 7 cochineal species and 63 historical cochineal insect specimens were analyzed using the two approaches, and then compared with the results for 15 historical textiles in order to assess their applicability to real complex samples. The methodology developed here was shown to provide more accurate and consistent information than the traditional method. Almost all of the historical textiles were dyed with Porphyrophora sp. insects. These results emphasize the importance of adopting the proposed methodology for future research on cochineal (and related red dyes). Mild extraction methods and HPLC-DAD/MSⁿ analysis yield distinctive profiles, which, in combination with a PCA reference database, are a powerful tool for identifying red insect dyes.     

Micellar electrokinetic chromatography method for the determination of several natural red dyestuff and lake pigments used in art work

The identification of organic colorants used in artistic paintings is an important information source for reconstructing the working techniques found in a particular work and for defining a programme for the restoration and conservation of the painting. In this work, sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) was used as a surfactant in micellar electrokinetic chromatography (MEKC) for separating a broad range of red organic pigments, based on their colouring matters: madder (colouring matters: alizarin, quinizarin and purpurin), cochineal (colouring matter: carminic acid), red sandalwood (colouring matter: santalin), brazilwood (colouring matter: brazilin), lac dye (colouring matter: laccaic acid) and dragon's blood (colouring matter: dracorhodin). The running electrolyte used was 20 mM borax (pH 9), containing 20 mM SDS and 10% acetonitrile as organic modifier. Separation was carried out by applying a +20 kV voltage at the injection end, 25 degrees C and 214 nm/254 nm as detection wavelengths. All colorants were separated within less than 13 min with a good baseline resolution. The method was applied to the analysis of paint samples obtained from the Diocesan Museum of Holy Art of Bilbao.     

Investigation of red natural dyes used in historical objects by HPLC-DAD-MS

High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with UV-Vis Diode Array Detection (DAD) and electrospray mass spectrometric (ESI-MS) method was utilized for the identification of coloring components of madder, Armenian and Mexican cochineal, lac dye, brazilwood, safflower and dragon blood--probably the most important red natural dyestuffs found in objects of the cultural heritage. UV-Vis detection limits in the range of 0.2-0.6 ng for carminic acid, alizarin and purpurin were achieved using a gradient elution of H2O-0.01% TFA and CH3CN-0.01% TFA. ESI mass spectrometer was also used, as a supportive detection method to the standard DAD, for further analysis of the tested materials, with the ability to analyze dyestuffs as small as one milligram. The presence of madder was revealed in two historical (Hellenistic and Roman period) samples, found in the Mediterranean area, by identifying purpurin in both of them. Munjistin was also identified in one of the samples (Hellenistic period) while alizarin was not detected, raising questions regarding the exact madder type, utilized in the historical samples.     

Extracting natural dyes from wool--an evaluation of extraction methods

The efficiency of eight different procedures used for the extraction of natural dyes was evaluated using contemporary wool samples dyed with cochineal, madder, woad, weld, brazilwood and logwood. Comparison was made based on the LC-DAD peak areas of the natural dye's main components which had been extracted from the wool samples. Among the tested methods, an extraction procedure with Na(2)EDTA in water/DMF (1:1, v/v) proved to be the most suitable for the extraction of the studied dyes, which presented a wide range of chemical structures. The identification of the natural dyes used in the making of an eighteenth century Arraiolos carpet was possible using the Na(2)EDTA/DMF extraction of the wool embroidery samples and an LC-DAD-MS methodology. The effectiveness of the Na(2)EDTA/DMF extraction method was particularly observed in the extraction of weld dye components. Nine flavone derivatives previously identified in weld extracts could be identified in a single historical sample, confirming the use of this natural dye in the making of Arraiolos carpets. Indigo and brazilwood were also identified in the samples, and despite the fact that these natural dyes were referred in the historical recipes of Arraiolos dyeing, it is the first time that the use of brazilwood is confirmed. Mordant analysis by ICP-MS identified the widespread use of alum in the dyeing process, but in some samples with darker hues, high amounts of iron were found instead.     

Identification of natural dyes used in works of art by pyrolysis–gas chromatography/mass spectrometry combined with in situ trimethylsilylation

Samples of four natural dyes from different organic families—natural madder (anthraquinonoid), curcuma (curcuminoid), saffron (carotenoid) and indigo (indigotic)—were analysed using a new procedure based on pyrolysis–gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (Py–GC/MS), which includes the on-line derivatisation of the natural dyes using hexamethyldisilazane (HMDS). In addition, a previous procedure involving the addition of a 10% H₂SO₄ aqueous solution to the dye and further separation with ethyl acetate has been tested. This procedure enhances the sensitivity of the method by extracting the colouring compounds from the rest of the compounds present in the natural dye. Two possible derivatising reagents—HMDS and tetramethylammonium hydroxide (TMAH)—were compared in order to assess their effectiveness in the proposed method. Characteristic peaks from trimethylsilyl derivatives of alizarin, quinizarin, xanthopurpurin and purpurin were obtained for madder; peaks from safranal, isophorone and trimethylsilyl derivative of crocetin for saffron; peaks from 4-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxy)phenyl-3-buten-2-one and 4-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxy)phenyl-2-butanone, which are primary pyrolysis products of curcuma, and peaks from indole, 2-methylindole and 2,3-dihydroindol-2-one, which are primary pyrolysis products of indigo, among others, were obtained. The reported procedure leads to the unambiguous identification of the four studied dyes from solid samples formed by individual dyes.Electronic Supplementary Material Supplementary material is available for this article at     

Identification of anthraquinone coloring matters in natural red dyestuffs by high performance liquid chromatography with ultraviolet and electrospray mass spectrometric detection

Reversed phase liquid chromatography with diode array detection (DAD) and electrospray mass spectrometric (ESI MSD) methods were developed for the identification of anthraquinone color components of cochineal, lac dye, and madder – red natural dyestuffs. Electrospray mass spectrometry was found to be more suitable than diode array detection for such analysis because of its higher sensitivity (detection limits in the range 30–90 ng mL^–1) and selectivity. The developed method permitted unequivocal identification of carminic acid and laccaic acid A as coloring matters in examined preparations of cochineal and lac dye, respectively. In madder more chemical color species were found: alizarin, purpurin, lucidin, ruberythric acid, and also aluminum and calcium alizarin lake. Among the methods recommended so far, the present one allows fast, direct, and unequivocal identification of components of very complicated natural products used in art.     

Evaluating a Cumaean Sibyl: Domenichino or later? A multi analytical approach

The purpose of this study is to clarify important details about a Cumaean Sibyl painting that is preserved in a private collection. This work, bearing neither signature nor date, has never undergone conservation. It was executed after Domenichino's Cumaean Sibyl, a work known to have been used as a model by many 18th century painters.Investigation of the anonymous artist's painting technique and identification of its constituent materials were facilitated by employing optical microscopy (OM), scanning electron microscopy (SEM/EDS), FTIR and microRaman spectroscopies and high performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection (HPLC-DAD). The painter's palette comprised lead white, yellow ochre, lead-antimonate yellow (Naples yellow), cinnabar, cochineal lake, madder lake, haematite, Prussian blue and carbon black.The detection of Prussian blue (synthesized in 1704 and widely used as artist's pigment after 1750) was decisive in establishing the work's authenticity for, as such, it cannot be attributed either to Domenico Zampieri (1581-1641) or to his apprentices. In addition, the identification of Naples yellow, which prevailed in the period from 1750 to 1850, supports this statement. Nevertheless, its elaborate painting technique strongly suggests an artist greatly influenced by the Renaissance masters. A comparison of its stylistic features with those of the Cumaean Sibyl of Angelica Kauffmann (1741-1807), a prolific 18th century artist known to have studied and to have copied Domenichino's Sibyl, reveals significant similarities between the two in composition and palette. The unsigned Sibyl, therefore, could well be by Kauffmann.     

Naturfarbstoffe: Farben mit Geschichte

Up to the introduction and industrial use of synthetic colouring materials, natural dyestuffs like woad, purple and madder were commonly used. Natural dyestuffs require different dyeing methods like vat‐, direct‐ or mordant‐dyeing. The fundamental principles of these methods are still in use in modern dyeing mills. The article gives an idea of cultural and historical connections during the development from textile handicraft to the first industrial organisation. By the example of madder the influence of mordants on colour is presented.     

Analysis of ancient Greco–Roman cosmetic materials using laser desorption ionization and electrospray ionization mass spectrometry

Microsamples of pink cosmetic powders from the Greco–Roman period were analyzed using two complementary analytical approaches for identification of the colouring agents (lake pigments originally manufactured from madder plants with an inert binder, usually a metallic salt) present in the samples. The first technique was a methanolic acidic extraction of the archaeological samples with an additional ethyl acetate extraction of the anthraquinone-type colouring agents which were identified using high performance liquid chromatography coupled to electrospray ionization with high resolution mass spectrometry (LC–ESI–HRMS), and the second was direct analysis of a microsample by laser desorption ionization–mass spectrometry (LDI–MS). The latter technique is well suited when the quantity of samples is very low. This soft ionization technique enables the detection of very small quantities of compounds using the combination of positive and negative-ion modes. It was also successfully applied for the direct analysis of some laboratory-made reference compounds. However, the presence of lead in one of these ancient samples induced a spectral suppression phenomenon. In this case and conditional on a sufficient quantity of available sample, the former method is better adapted for the characterization of these anthraquinone-type molecules. This study also confirmed that purpurin, munjistin, and pseudopurpurin are the principal colouring agents present in these ancient cosmetic powders constituted from madder plants. Presented at the Annual French National Symposium on Mass Spectrometry, Electrophoresis and Proteomics, 20–23 September 2007 in Pau, France.     

Nachweis natürlicher organischer Künstlerpigmente

Zusammenfassung Der Nachweis natürlicher organischer Künstlerpigmente 1st wesentlich schwieriger als die Erkennung anorganischer Pigmente. Für die Farblacke sind dünnschicht-chromatographische Methoden am günstigsten, da häufig Mischungen vorliegen, die nach saurer Lackspaltung mit konz. Schwefelsäure unterschiedliches chromatographisches Verhalten zeigen, wenn man sie auf Mikropolyamidschichten trennt. Zum Nachweis von Hydroxyflavonen und -anthrachinonen auf Chromatogrammen ist Uranylacetat alien bisher bekannten Reagenzien überlegen. Manchmal helfen empfindliche Farbreaktionen zur Unterscheidung sehr ähnlicher Lacke weiter: Cochenillekarmin bildet einen blauen Borsäurekomplex, Kermeskarmin dagegen einen violetten. Mit Uranylacetat als Spurenreagens lassen sich noch 0,5g Cochenillekarmin und Kermeskarmin nachweisen. Lösliche Farbstoffe können durch Diinnschichtchromatographie auf Mikropolyamidplatten unterschieden werden. Zur Unterscheidung unlöslicher Pigmente eignen sich IR-Spektren und spezifische Farbreaktionen.

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Assay of natural organic artists pigments

Summary Assay of natural organic artists pigments is much more difficult than the detection of inorganic pigments. Thin-layer chromatographic methods are most advantageous for the lacquers since mixtures are frequently present. These show differing chromatographic behavior when separated on micropolyamide layers after acid cleavage of the lacquer with concentrated sulfuric acid. Uranyl acetate is superior to all previously known reagents for assay of hydroxyflavons and hydroxyanthraquinones on chromatograms. Sensitive color reactions sometimes help further in distinguishing very similar pigments: cochineal carmine forms a blue boric acid complex, whereas kermes carmine forms a violet boric acid complex. With uranyl acetate as trace reagent, 0.5g cochineal carmine and kermes carmine can be demonstrated. Soluble pigments can be distinguished by thinlayer chromatography on micropolyamide plates. IR spectra and specific dye reactions are suitable for distinguishing insoluble pigments.

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Vorgetragen beim Internationalen Symposium für mikrochemische Arbeitsmethoden, 22.–27. Mai 1977, Davos, Schweiz.     

Integrated analytical techniques for the study of ancient Greek polychromy

The materials used in the decoration of three painted astragaloi (knucklebones) from the Koroneia cave (Greece) were investigated by means of sequential application of non-destructive and destructive techniques: optical microscopy, environmental scanning electron microscopy coupled with X-ray microanalysis (ESEM-EDX), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) with micro-attenuated total reflection (μ-ATR) technique, high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) coupled with UV-fluorescence and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) were used.The main results highlighted that the three astragaloi were prepared with a ground of ochre or iron clay and painted with a proteinaceous matter such as binder egg tempera. Both FTIR and GC-MS agree in the detection of lipids that can be related to egg. Organic dyestuffs identified as madder lake and shellfish purple were used together with inorganic pigments.     

Electrochemical analysis of natural solid organic dyes and pigments

Square-wave voltammetry of solid naphthoquinone, anthraquinone, and flavone dyes, carmine, cochineal red, indigo, and Prussian blue, was compared to microanalysis (sample consumption <1 mg) of traditional painting pigments and dyes without their preliminary dissolution. Electrochemical analysis was also performed after the samples' hydrolysis simultaneously with thin-layer chromatography. Anthraquinone-based pigments and Prussian blue are reversibly reduced, cochineal red and lac dyes are irreversibly reduced, flavones are mostly reversibly oxidized, dragon's blood is irreversibly oxidized and reduced, and indigo yields both reversible oxidation and reduction. The potential window of these reactions is about 1.4 V wide. This variability permits identification of the kind of pigment or dye, and directly distinguishes, for example, alizarin and purpurin; luteolin and quercetin; or indigo and Prussian blue.     

Color and fastness of natural dyes encapsulated by a sol-gel process for dyeing natural and synthetic fibers

Natural dyes, namely, indigo carmine, cochineal carmine, curcumin and annatto, were encapsulated in silica by a sol-gel method and applied in the dyeing of different textile fibers by exhaustion. For comparative reasons, dyeing using the free (non-encapsulated) bare dyes was also carried out. The hybrid materials were analyzed by a set of techniques to investigate their elemental, structural, textural and morphological properties, and the results showed that it was possible to obtain stable natural dyes for applications in textile dyeing. The silica-structured dyes showed better affinities with the fibers (WO, PA, PAC and PET) in dyeing with cochineal carmine, while cotton (CO) showed better affinities with the encapsulated curcumin and annatto dyes. The performances of the encapsulated dyes were evaluated by color and washing fastness measurements and resulted in improved dye absorption and wash fastness properties. The color change and color transfer measurements of the encapsulated dyes were better (rated at 4–5 on a scale of 1–5) compared to the bare dyes.

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