Phototoxic properties of perfumes containing bergamot oil on human skin: photoprotective effect of UVA and UVB sunscreens

As part of an international cooperative study of the photophysical, photomutagenic and photocarcinogenic properties of bergamot oil and the effect of UVA and UVB sunscreens, the phototoxic properties of model perfumes containing 5, 15 and 50 ppm 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP) in bergamot oil with and without a sunscreen have been investigated on human skin. It has been confirmed that the photosensitivity of human skin is maximal 2 h after perfume application. Interestingly the addition of a UVA sunscreen is more efficient for decreasing the phototoxic properties of bergamot oil than is a UVB sunscreen. The addition of sunscreens in a model perfume containing 50 ppm 5-MOP in bergamot oil can reduce the phototoxic properties of this perfume to a toxicity equivalent to that produced by the application of a model perfume containing 15 ppm 5-MOP without sunscreens. However, despite their promising protective effect in vitro, UVB and UVA sunscreens at low concentration (0.5%-1%) in perfumes cannot suppress the phototoxicity of bergamot oil on human skin.     

Evaluation of the protective effect of sunscreens on in vitro reconstructed human skin exposed to UVB or UVA irradiation

We have previously shown that skin reconstructed in vitro is a useful model to study the effects of UVB and UVA exposure. Wavelength-specific biological damage has been identified such as the formation of sunburn cells (SBC) and pyrimidine dimers after UVB irradiation and alterations of dermal fibroblasts after UVA exposure. These specific effects were selected to evaluate the protection afforded by two sunscreens after topical application on the skin surface. Simplified formulations having different absorption spectra but similar sun protection factors were used. One contained a classical UVB absorber, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate. The other contained a broad-spectrum absorber called Mexoryl SX, characterized by its strong absorbing potency in the UVA range. Both filters were used at 5% in a simple water/oil vehicle. The evaluation of photoprotection on in vitro reconstructed skin revealed good efficiency for both preparations in preventing UVB-induced damage, as shown by SBC counting and pyrimidine dimer immunostaining. By contrast, only the Mexoryl SX-containing preparation was able to efficiently prevent UVA-specific damage such as dermal fibroblast disappearance. Our data further support the fact that skin reconstructed in vitro is a reliable system to evaluate the photoprotection provided by different sunscreens against specific UVB and UVA biological damage.     

An animal model of solar-aged skin: histological, physical, and visible changes in UV-irradiated hairless mouse skin

Albino hairless mice (Skh:HR-l) exposed to sub-erythemal doses of UVB or UVA radiation display physical, visible, and histological alterations. Skin surface replicas, transepidermal water loss, and skin fold thickness were found to change with irradiation. Visibly, the skin wrinkled with UVB and sagged with UVA exposure. These changes were graded on 3-point scales. Histological alterations included tissue thickening, loss of elastic fibers, elastosis, loss of collagen, and increases in muco-substances. The UVB alterations occur to a much lesser extent with an SPF-15 (7% PABA and 3% oxybenzone) sunscreen product. This sunscreen product had little effect on development of UVA-induced changes. However, an efficient UVA sunscreen (Parsol 1789) did reduce the UVA-induced changes. Many of the UVB-induced alterations regressed after UVB irradiation was stopped. No regression in UVA-induced alterations was observed when UVA irradiation was stopped. Qualitatively, the effects with UVA irradiation were like those observed in mouse chronological aging. These models and the convenient physical and visible grading methods described can be used to determine the effectiveness of topical treatments, such as sunscreens.     

Measurements of the Protective Effect of Topically Applied Sunscreens using in vitro Three-dimensional Dermal and Skin Equivalents

Abstract— For preventing or minimizing acute and chronic skin damage caused by UV radiation, the use of sunscreens is probably the most important measure. To screen the protective efficacy of new sunscreen molecules or formulations against UV rays, we evaluated as in vitro testing methods the use of two three-dimensional models, a dermal equivalent (DE) and a skin equivalent (SE). The DE is composed of a porous collagen-glycosaminoglycans-chitosan matrix populated by normal human fibroblasts. The SE is comprised of a fully differentiated epidermis realized by seeding keratinocytes onto the DE. In this study, we demonstrated that the DE and SE models react to the deleterious effects of UVA and UVB. Then, we extended our research to the evaluation of their usefulness for photoprotection trials. Sunscreen agents (Euso-lex 8020 and 6300) and commercially available sunscreens (chemical and physical filter formulations) that protect the skin against either UVA or UVB were evaluated. The tested products were applied (n = 6) topically (10 μL) and incubated for 30 min prior to irradiation over a range of UVA (0-50 J/cm²) or UVB (0-5 J/cm²). The photoprotection provided by the tested sunscreen molecules and formulations was evaluated by measurement of residual cellular viability 24 h postirradiation using the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetra-zolium bromide (MTT) test and assessment of the inflammation response by interleukin-la release assay. When sunscreens were applied prior to UV exposure, a higher residual cellular viability versus control was obtained, demonstrating the photoprotective effects of the tested products. These in vitro models could be used for screening tests to evaluate the protective effects of sunscreen molecules and formulations, especially for UVA trials because there is a lack of consensus for an in vivo method.     

Changes in ultraviolet absorbance and hence in protective efficacy against lipid peroxidation of organic sunscreens after UVA irradiation

Owing to the spectral distribution of solar UV, the UVA component of sunlight is now believed to be the main cause of photoaging and photocarcinogenesis and is much more effective than UVB in inducing peroxidative damage. Consequently, most skin care cosmetic products now include UVA filters in their formulations along with UVB filters. These modern sunscreens should provide and maintain their initial absorbance, hence protection, throughout the entire period of exposure to sunlight. However, not all UVA and UVB filters are sufficiently photostable. In this study, we examine the correlation between the photochemical degradation of sunscreen agents under UVA irradiation, with particular reference to the UVA-absorber 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, alone and in combination with other organic UV filters (2-ethylhexyl 4 methoxycinnamate and 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate) and their ability to prevent UVA-induced lipid peroxidation. Since antioxidants are also added to formulations to deactivate free radicals generated during UVA exposure, vitamin E and the synthetic antioxidant, bis(2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-1-oxyl-piperidine-4-yl)sebacate, a nitroxide derivative, were also included in this study. By using simple in vitro tests, the results show that a decrease in spectral absorbance of the UV filters correlates in most cases with increased UVA-induced lipid peroxidation; this depends on the specific UV absorber analysed and also on whether they are alone or in combination. Furthermore, the combined presence or absence of antioxidants has a profound effect on this oxidative event. In particular, the nitroxide appears to be a more efficient photo-antioxidant than vitamin E. Similar experiments were also performed under natural sunlight and the results obtained did not differ substantially from those performed under UVA. The results presented and discussed in this work may help in understanding the effects of UVA/UVB absorbers and antioxidants upon the level of UV-induced ROS generated under UVA exposure and in natural sunlight which could be relevant for improving the photoprotection and efficacy of skin care cosmetic formulations.     

A Review of Sunscreen Safety and Efficacy

The use of sunscreen products has been advocated by many health care practitioners as a means to reduce skin damage produced by ultraviolet radiation (UVR) from sunlight. There is a need to better understand the efficacy and safety of sunscreen products given this ongoing campaign encouraging their use. The approach used to establish sunscreen efficacy, sun protection factor (SPF), is a useful assessment of primarily UVB (290–320 nm) filters. The SPF test, however, does not adequately assess the complete photoprotective profile of sunscreens specifically against long wavelength UVAI (340–400 nm). Moreover, to date, there is no singular, agreed upon method for evaluating UVA efficacy despite the immediate and seemingly urgent consumer need to develop sunscreen products that provide broad-spectrum UVB and UVA photoprotection. With regard to the safety of UVB and UVA filters, the current list of commonly used organic and inorganic sunscreens has favorable toxico-logical profiles based on acute, subchronic and chronic animal or human studies. Further, in most studies, sunscreens have been shown to prevent the damaging effects of UVR exposure. Thus, based on this review of currently available data, it is concluded that sunscreen ingredients or products do not pose a human health concern. Further, the regular use of appropriate broad-spectrum sunscreen products could have a significant and favorable impact on public health as part of an overall strategy to reduce UVR exposure.     

UVA II Exposure of Human Skin Results in Decreased Immunization Capacity, Increased Induction of Tolerance and a Unique Pattern of Epidermal Antigen-Presenting Cell Alteration

Abstract— The risks incurred from increased exposure to UVA II (320-340 nm) (i.e. during sunscreen use and extended outdoor exposure, tanning parlors) are not well understood. Therefore, we explored the effects of UVA II on skin immune responses in humans. After a single local exposure (4 minimum erythemal dose [MED]) using a xenon arc lamp filtered with a narrow bandpass filter (335 ± 5 nm full width at half maximum), individuals were contact-sensitized with dinitrochlorobenzene (DNCB) through a UVA II exposure site or through normal skin. UVA II induced a marked decrease in the magnitude of skin immune responses (P < 0.0001). The UVA II group had only 29% successful sensitizations, as compared to 83% in the control group. The percentage of individuals who remained tolerant to DNCB after two sensitizations was 23.6% for the UVA II-exposed group, as compared to 3.8% in the controls (P= 0.006). UVA II also uniquely altered the type of antigen-presenting cells present in the epidermis. Human leukocyte antigen (HLA)-DR+ cells in control epidermal cell suspensions (C-EC) comprised a single, homogeneous population of Langerhans cells (LC) with the phenotype: CD1a^hi DR^mid CD11b^? CD36^? (1.5 ± 0.3% of EC). UVA II irradiation reduced the number of such LC to 0.6 ± 0.2% of EC. Although cells expressing the macrophage phenotype: CD1a DR^hi CD11b+ CD36+ were increased in UVA II skin, relative to C-EC, these comprised only 10.1 ± 6.1% of the DR+ cells, which is less than that after UVB exposure. Also distinct from UVB, a third population was found in UVA II-EC, which exhibited a novel phenotype: CD1a+ DR+ CD36+ CDllb+; these comprised 11.1 ± 6.9% of the DR+ UVA II-EC. In conclusion, despite the above differences in infiltrating DR cells, both UVB and UVA II reduce the skin's ability to support contact sensitization, induce active suppression (tolerance) and induce a reduction in LC.     

Differential effects of UVA1 and UVB radiation on Langerhans cell migration in mice

The UVB (280-315 nm)- and UVA1 (340-400 nm)-induced migration of Langerhans cells (LC) from the epidermis and accumulation of dendritic cells (DC) in the lymph nodes draining the exposed skin site of C3H/HeN mice have been investigated. One minimum erythemal dose (MED) of UVB (1.5 kJ/m2) and of UVA1 (500 kJ/m2) were chosen, which have been shown previously to suppress delayed hypersensitivity (DTH). UVB irradiation resulted in a reduction in epidermal LC numbers, local to the site of the exposure, which was most apparent 12 h after exposure, but, in contrast, UVA1 had no significant effect even at 72 h after exposure. UVA1 did not exert any protection against the UVB-mediated depletion in LC numbers. The reduction in local LC following UVB exposure was prevented by systemic (intraperitoneal) treatment of mice with neutralising antibodies to either tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-alpha or interleukin (IL)-beta 2 h prior to the irradiation. It has been reported previously that UVB exposure caused an increase in the number of dendritic cells (DC) in the lymph nodes draining the irradiated skin site. In the present study we have shown that UVA1 had a similar effect. Pretreatment of the mice with neutralising antibodies to IL-1beta (by intraperitoneal injection) substantially inhibited DC accumulation induced by both UV regimens. However, anti-TNF-alpha antibodies affected only the UVB-induced increase, and did not alter the elevation in DC numbers observed following UVA1 exposure. These results indicate that UVB causes the migration of LC from the epidermis and an accumulation of DC in the draining lymph nodes by a mechanism that requires both TNF-alpha and IL-1beta. In contrast, UVAI does not cause LC migration from the epidermis and the accumulation of DC in the draining lymph nodes observed following UVA1 exposure requires IL-1beta, but not TNF-alpha. It is likely therefore that UVA1 acts through a different mechanism from UVB and may target a cutaneous antigen presenting cell other than LC, such as the dermal DC.     

Assessment of the photoprotection properties of sunscreens by chromatographic measurement of DNA damage in skin explants

Evaluation of the photoprotection provided by sunscreens is performed either through the induction of erythema and expressed as the sun protection factor (SPF), or by the UVA-mediated persistent pigment darkening (PPD). None of these two endpoints has a link with skin cancer, the most deleterious consequence of excess exposure to solar UV radiation. We thus set up a complementary approach to evaluate the protection provided by sunscreens to the genome of human skin. This is based on the quantification of the thymine cyclobutane dimer (TT-CPD), the main DNA lesion induced by both UVB and UVA radiations. Irradiations were performed ex vivo on human skin explants and the level of TT-CPD in DNA was determined by HPLC associated with tandem mass spectrometry. The technique was first optimized and validated with three standard sunscreens. The study was then extended to the evaluation of a commercial high SPF sunscreen exhibiting efficient UVA photoprotection. The DNA protecting factor was found to reflect the ratio between UVB and UVA photoprotection, although the absolute values of the genomic protection were, as a general trend, lower than either SPF or PPD. These data show the usefulness of the proposed approach for the evaluation of the genoprotection afforded by sunscreens.     

Evaluation of sunscreen protection in human melanocytes exposed to UVA or UVB irradiation using the alkaline comet assay

The in vivo assessment of sunscreen protection does not include the photogenotoxicity of UVA or UVB solar radiation. Using the comet assay we have developed a simple and rapid technique to quantify sunscreen efficacy against DNA damage induced by UV light. Cutaneous human melanocytes from primary cultures were embedded in low-melting point (LPM) agarose and exposed to UVA (0.8 J/cm2) or to UVB (0.06 J/cm2) through a quartz slide covered with 10 microL volumes of sunscreens. DNA single-strand breaks induced directly by UVA at 4 degrees C and indirectly through nucleotide excision repair by UVB following a 35 min incubation period at 37 degrees C were quantified using the comet assay. Tail moments (TM) (tail length x %tail DNA) of 100 cells/sample were determined by image analysis. DNA damage was evaluated with a nonlinear regression analysis on the normalized distribution frequencies of TM using a chi 2 function. The coefficients of genomic protection (CGP) were defined as the percentage of inhibition of DNA lesions caused by the sunscreens. Twenty-one sunscreens were evaluated, and the calculated CGP were compared with the in vivo sun protective factor (SPF) and with the protection factor UVA (PFA). Nonlinear relationships were found between SPF and CGPUVB and between PFA and CGPUVA.     

Attenuation of DNA damage in the dermis and epidermis of the albino hairless mouse by chronic exposure to ultraviolet-A and -B radiation

Mammalian skin is vulnerable to the photocarcinogenic and photoaging effects of solar UV radiation and defends itself using a variety of photoprotective responses including epidermal thickening, tanning and the induction of repair and antiradical systems. We treated Skh-1 albino hairless mice for 60 days with ultraviolet-A (UVA) or ultraviolet-B (UVB) radiation and measured the frequency of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers and pyrimidine(6-4)pyrimidone photoproducts induced by a single acute sunburn dose of UVB at different stages of the chronic treatment. We found that both UVA and UVB exposure produced a photoprotective response in the dermis and epidermis and that the degree of photoproduct attenuation was dependent on dose, wavelength and the type of damage induced. Although epidermal thickening was important, our data suggest that UV protective compounds other than melanin may be involved in mitigating the damaging effects of sunlight in the skin.     

Mexoryr SX Protects Against Solar-Simulated UVR-lnduced Photocarcinogenesis in Mice

Abstract— The aim of this study was to determine, for regulatory purposes, the potential of MexoryP SX, a broad UVA absorber that also absorbs to some extent in the UVB, to modify the UV radiation (UVR)-induced murine skin tumor development and growth. Skh-hrl mice were exposed to solar-simulated UVR 5 days per week for 40 weeks. Two control groups were irradiated without topical application, three groups received a sunscreen preparation containing either the UVA absorber, MexoryP SX at 5 or 10% concentration, or a filter that absorbs principally in the UVB, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinna-mate (2-EHMC) at 5% concentration, introduced as a comparator test article. Sunscreen application was performed before UVR exposure 3 days per week and after UVR exposure on the other 2 days (consistent with the design of a standard photocarcinogenesis safety test). Two different weekly UVR doses were administrated: the lower dose was given to one group of unprotected animals, whereas the higher dose was administrated to the other unprotected group and to the three sunscreen-treated groups. The two UVR control groups demonstrated a UVR-dependent response for cumulative tumor prevalence, tumor yield and median latent period. Neither concentration of Mexoryl SX increased the probability of tumor development; consistent with the principles for safety testing, this provides evidence in that it is safe for use in sunlight. Although this study was explicitly designed as a safety test, the results also provide some clues about the efficacy of MexoryP SX in decreasing the probability of tumor development. Topical administration of Mexoryl* SX, at both concentrations, resulted in a 6 week delay in the median latent period compared to high UVR controls, whereas 5% 2-EHMC delayed the median latent periods only by 2 weeks. Tumor prevalence and yield show the same efficacy differences between the two sunscreen ingredients. Tumor protection factors were calculated from these results and found to be equal to 2.4 for the two preparations containing Mexoryl* SX and to 1.3 for the 5% 2-EHMC preparation.     

ACTION SPECTRUM FOR ERYTHEMA IN HUMANS INVESTIGATED WITH DYE LASERS

Abstract— Erythema reactions of human skin were reevaluated with improved experimental methods: a tunable, highly monochromatic irradiation source as well as an instrumental measurement of skin reactions were used. The irradiation system consisted of an excimer laser pumped dye laser and a U V fiber optic system. The skin color after irradiation was determined with a colorimeter in the three-dimensional norm system of the Commission Internationale d'Eclairage (CIE). The wavelength dependence for delayed erythema was investigated in the UVB and UVA region from 294 nm to 374 nm in skin type II and III individuals. The maximum of the action spectrum in the UVB range was measured at 298.5 nm and an additional maximum was found at 362 nm in the UVA range. The action spectrum is compared with previous spectra from the literature and with the current standard erythema curve of the CIE as well as with other photobiological action spectra. Our results suggest a UVA/UVB boundary at 330 nm.     

Photostabilization Effect of Quercetin on the UV Filter Combination,Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane–Octyl Methoxycinnamate

The aim of the study was to investigate the effect of the natural antioxidant quercetin on the photostability of the most widely used combination of UVA (320–400 nm) and UVB (290–320 nm) filters, respectively butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM) and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC). In order to reproduce the conditions prevalent in commercial sunscreen products, the stabilizing efficacy of quercetin was evaluated in model creams containing BMDBM (3%, wt/wt) together with OMC (4%, wt/wt) and exposed to a solar simulator at an irradiance corresponding to natural sunlight. Quercetin was found to enhance the photostability of the two UV filters in a concentration-dependent way. Addition of quercetin to the sunscreen formulation significantly reduced the photodegradation of BMDBM and OMC from 40.3 ± 2.4 to 27.7 ± 2.6% and from 51.3 ± 2.1 to 42.2 ± 2.0%, respectively. Moreover, comparative photodegradation studies demonstrated that quercetin was much more effective and at a lower concentration than commonly used stabilizer (octocrylene) and antioxidants (vitamin E, butylated hydroxyanisole). In vitro determination of the UVB and UVA protection parameters showed that the quercetin-based formulation fulfilled the official requirements on sunscreen products. Because of its photostabilizing and multiple antioxidant properties, quercetin represents a useful additive for the formulation of effective broad-spectrum sunscreens containing BMDBM and OMC.     

Comparison of the erythemogenic effectiveness of ultraviolet-B (290-320 nm) and ultraviolet-A (320-400 nm) radiation by skin reflectance

–Based on optical properties of the skin, its constituent layers and the blood, and a previously experimentally verified quantitative model for the optical transfer properties in skin, noninvasive determinations of the amount of cutaneous blood in the superficial plexus are made from skin reflectance. This method is used to determine UVA and UVB fluences that cause cutaneous blood in the superficial plexus to increase to 1.5, 2 and 2.5 times the pre-radiation volume at various times after irradiation. Our results show that on an equal fluence basis, UVB is two to three thousand times as effective as UVA in inducing erythema, whether erythema is evaluated 8, 24 or 72 h after irradiation. This agrees with the result obtained in terms of minimal erythema dose by visual inspection.     

The Photostabilizing Effect of Grape Seed Extract on Three Common Sunscreen Absorbers

The photostabilizing ability of grape seed extract on three common sunscreen absorbers, 2‐ethylhexyl‐p‐methoxycinnamate (EHMC), benzophenone‐3 (BP3) and tert‐butylmethoxy dibenzoylmethane (BMDBM), was investigated. Samples were exposed to simulated solar radiation and monitored by spectrophotometric and chromatographic methods. The chemical composition of the grape seed extract was determined by GC‐MS and HPLC‐MS, and the major secondary metabolites were found to be epicatechin and catechin. Exposure of the extract to UV radiation increased the UV absorption capacity of the extract. All sunscreens showed an improved photostability in the extract. The inherent photo‐instability of BMDBM when exposed to UV radiation was almost eliminated in the presence of grape seed extract. A mixture of all three sunscreens in the extract showed very high photostability and a red shift covering the entire UVB and UVA regions, thereby improving the broad‐spectrum protection. The incorporation of grape seed extract in sunscreen and other cosmetic formulations for topical application boosts photoprotection by stabilizing the UV filters and enhancing broad‐spectrum coverage. This in turn helps in reducing the amounts of absorbers and other additives incorporated in a sunscreen product and consequently lowers the risk of an unprecedented buildup of photoproducts whose toxicities are currently unknown.     

Photostability of UV Absorber Systems in Sunscreens†

Sunscreens are used to protect the human skin against harmful UV radiation. Today there is a trend toward higher sun protection factors (SPF) and better UVA protection. Methods for the assessment of SPF and UVA protection involve irradiation of the product, and the photostability properties of the sunscreen have an influence on its performance. Sunscreens often contain more than one UV filter. Thus it is important to understand the photostability properties of the complete system. The filter combinations used may exhibit destabilizing, stabilizing or inert interactions. For that reason, besides assessment of the properties of the single filters, photostabilities of binary filter combinations are investigated. Destabilization occurs when two UV absorbers undergo a chemical reaction after absorption of UV radiation. Stabilization may be achieved when the optical density of the system is very high, giving rise to a self‐protection effect of the sunscreen film. Photounstable UV absorbers may be additionally stabilized by employing triplet quenchers. Being aware of these mechanisms and applying them for specific UV filter combinations can help in designing efficient sunscreens.     

Natural UV-Screening Mechanisms of Norway Spruce (Picea abies [L.] Karst.) Neediest

Abstract— Ultraviolet-light screening potential of Norway spruce (Picea abies [L.] Karst.) needles was investigated by UV-spectroscopic, microscopic, fluorescence spectroscopic techniques as well as by HPLC, mass spectrometry and NMR spectroscopy. Results showed four potential barriers of UV screening by Norway spruce needles: (1) UV-light screening via reflectance of UV/violet light by epidermis, (2) UV-light screening via reduction of transmission of UV light by special anatomical arrangement of the epidermal cells containing the UV-screening allomelanins as well as by the light-reflecting hyaline hypodermal cells, (3) conversion of UV light by epidermis into photosynthetically active radiation (PAR; blue and red spectral bands) via fluorescence and (4) UV-light screening by absorption of UV light by UV-screening substances contained in the epidermis, whereby the latter was found to be the most important UV-screening mechanism. Staining of needle cross sections with Naturstoffreagenz A showed the localization of bound flavonoids and its derivatives in the cell walls of the outer epidermal cell layer as revealed by confocal laser scanning microscopy. By fluorescence spectroscopy and confocal laser scanning microscopy, the conversion of UVA light into PAR in the epidermis was related to various UV-screening substances contained in the epidermis. The methanol-soluble UV-absorbing substances were found to create novel UV-screening barrier zones: UVC, >200–253 nm; UVC/UVB, >253–300/303 nm; and UVB/UVA, >300–362/368 nm in epidermis as well as in mesophyll (±vascular bundles) tissues, suggesting the protective functions of epidermis for the underlying mesophyll as well as of mesophyll for the underlying vascular bundles. The following sequence of efficiency of UV-screening barrier zones of the methanol-soluble extracts of the needle epidermis and mesophyll (± vascular bundles) for various UV-spectral bands was detected: UVC screening at less than 265 nm > UVC screening at 265–280 nm > UVB screening at 280–320 nm > UVA screening at 280–320 nm, whereby the UV screening at 280–320 nm was suggested as the most relevant barrier against enhanced UVB radiation. A blend of various UV-screening substances occurred in the methanol-soluble fractions of needle epidermis, whereby p-hydroxybenzoic acid 4-O-β-D-glucopyranoside, picein, (+)-catechin, p-hydroxyacetophenone, benzoic acid and astragalin were identified as UVC/UVB-screening substances; picein, (+)-catechin, astringin, p-hydroxyacetophenone and astragalin(s) as UVB-screening substances and astragalin(s) as UVA/B-screening substances. Alkaline hydrolysis of methanol-insoluble epidermal cell wall fractions released p-coumaric acid, ferulic acid and as-tragalin(s) as major UVB-screening substances. Loss of vitality of Norway spruce trees (forest decline disease) led to a significant reduction of UVB (315 nm)-screening ability of methanol-soluble fractions from epidermis, mesophyll (±vascular bundles) and whole needles. The HPLC analysis showed that the loss of vitality is due to a reduction in accumulation of UVB-absorbing substances, mainly picein, (+)-catechin, isorhapontin and astragalin(s) in the epidermis of needles from the second needle year in accordance with the detected loss of UVB-screening ability. It is concluded that the natural UV-screening mechanisms of Norway spruce needles are highly complex but mainly actively mediated by the ability of methanol-soluble UV-absorbing substances to form variable UVB-AJVA-screening barrier zones and passively by the ability of epidermal cell wall-bound UV-screening substances to screen UV light, whereby in the epidermis a conversion of excess UV light into PAR takes place.     

ULTRAVIOLET RADIATION-INDUCED PHOSPHOLIPASE A2 ACTIVATION OCCURS IN MAMMALIAN CELL MEMBRANE PREPARATIONS

Ultraviolet erythema in human skin is mediated in part by membrane derivatives of arachidonic acid (AA). UVA (320–400nm) and UVB (290–320nm) have been shown to induce release of AA from intact mammalian cells in culture. In order to investigate the mechanism of this release we examined the effect of UVA and UVB on release of [³H] AA from membrane preparations of murine fibroblasts. C3H 10T1/2 cells were prelabelled for 24 h with [³H] AA. The membrane fractions of the cells were separated after lysis by differential centrifugation. The membranes were irradiated in suspension and the [³H] AA released from the membranes was determined by scintillation spectroscopy of supernatants3–4 h after irradiation. Both UVA and UVB induced release of AA from the membrane preparations. The response to UVB was small but significant, reaching levels approximately 150% of control release at doses of 1,200-4,000 J/m². The response to UVA was larger; doses of 2.5-5.0 J/cm² induced release equal to twice control (200%) levels, while doses of10–20 J/cm² induced maximal release at levels approximately 400% of control. Time course studies with UVB and UVA showed maximal release at 4 h after irradiation. When the membrane preparations were incubated with a polyclonal anti-phospholipase A₂ antibody the UV induced release of [³H] AA was completely inhibited in both UVB (1200 J/m²) and UVA (10 J/cm²) treated cells. These data suggest that activation of phospholipase A₂ is responsible for the UV induced release of AA in mammalian cells and that the mechanism of this activation is due, in part at least, to direct photon-membrane interaction.     

Photostabilization of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate by bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), a new UV broadband filter

It is now well documented that chronic UVA exposure induces damage to human skin. Therefore, modern sunscreens should not only provide protection from both UVB and UVA radiation but also maintain this protection during the entire period of exposure to the sun. UVA filters, however, are rare and not sufficiently photostable. We investigated the effect of the introduction of a new UV filter, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), in oil in water sunscreen formulations on the photostability of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone [AVB]) after irradiation with an optically filtered Xenon arc source (UV irradiance adjusted at 1 mean effective dose [MED]/min). With spectrophotometrical methods to assess the sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA ratio and chromatographical methods to determine the amount of UV filters recovered after irradiation we showed that Tinosorb S prevented the photodegradation of AVB in a concentration-dependent way, leading to a sustained SPF and UVA ratio even after irradiation with doses of up to 30 MED. Since AVB was shown to destabilize ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHM) we tested the effect of Tinosorb S in sunscreens containing this UV filter combination. Here too Tinosorb S showed photoprotective properties toward both UV filters. Thus, Tinosorb S can be used successfully to improve the photostability and efficiency of sunscreens containing AVB and EHM.