Travelling waves of the KP equations with transverse modulations

Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equations arise genetically in modelling nonlinear wave propagation for primarily unidirectional long waves of small amplitude with weak transverse dependence. In the case when transverse dispersion is positive (such as for water waves with large surface tension) we investigate the existence of transversely modulated travelling waves near one-dimensional solitary waves. Using bifurcation theory we show the existence of a unique branch of periodically modulated solitary waves. Then, we briefly discuss the case when the transverse dispersion is negative (such as for water waves with zero surface tension).     

波浪上方飞行二维地效翼的非线性分析

针对二维波浪上方飞行的非定常二维地效翼进行了非线性分析．通过对二维奇点在规则波上方运动的Green函数的推导,利用离散涡方法解决了二维波浪上方飞行的非定常地效翼的升力问题．针对不同的几何参数和波浪参数对升力系数进行了研究．通过与定常情况的对比,验证了方法的有效性.     

Stability properties of steady water waves with vorticity

We present two stability analyses for exact periodic traveling water waves with vorticity. The first approach leads in particular to linear stability properties of water waves for which the vorticity decreases with depth. The second approach leads to a formal stability property for long water waves that have small vorticity and amplitude although we do not use a small‐amplitude or long‐wave approximation. © 2006 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.     

An Analytical Model of Periodic Waves in Shallow Water

An explicit, analytical model is presented of finite-amplitude waves in shallow water. The waves in question have two independent spatial periods, in two independent horizontal directions. Both short-crested and long-crested waves are available from the model. Every wave pattern is an exact solution of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation, and is based on a Riemann theta function of genus 2. These biperiodic waves are direct generalizations of the well-known (simply periodic) cnoidal waves. Just as cnoidal waves are often used as one-dimensional models of “typical” nonlinear, periodic waves in shallow water, these biperiodic waves may be considered to represent “typical” nonlinear, periodic waves in shallow water without the assumption of one-dimensionality.     

关于《保辛水波动力学》的一个注记

研究完全非线性水波的数值模拟方法，将《保辛水波动力学》中提出的保辛摄动方法，扩展到非线性水波压强的分析.数值算例表明，该文方法可用于水波的非线性演化分析，也可用于模拟孤立波、尖锐波峰的涌波等非线性水波，并给出水波的压强分布.     

Reflection of Water Waves from an Exponentially Sheared Current

The propagation of water waves across a current in which thevelocity varies from top to bottom in an exponential manneris discussed. Both the surface and evanescent wave modes arestudied, and a peculiar feature of the dispersion relation forshort waves is pointed out. The specific problem then treatedis that of the determination of the reflection and transmissioncoefficients for waves obliquely incident from still water ontoa vertical vortex sheet beyond which the current varies fromtop to bottom     

On a kinetic model for shallow water waves

The system of shallow water waves is one of the classical examples for non-linear, two-dimensional conservation laws. The paper investigates a simple kinetic equation depending on a parameter ? which leads for ? → 0 to the system of shallow water waves. The corresponding ‘equilibrium’ distribution function has a compact support which depends on the eigenvalues of the hyperbolic system. It is shown that this kind of kinetic approach is restricted to a special class of non-linear conservation laws. The kinetic model is used to develop a simple particle method for the numerical solution of shallow water waves. The particle method can be implemented in a straightforward way and produces in test examples sufficiently accurate results.     

On the interaction of deep water waves and exponential shear currents

A train of periodic deep-water waves propagating on a steady shear current with a vertical distribution of vorticity is investigated by an analytic method, namely the homotopy analysis method (HAM). The magnitude of the vorticity varies exponentially with the magnitude of the stream function, while remaining constant on a particular streamline. The so-called Dubreil–Jacotin transformation is used to transfer the original exponentially nonlinear boundary-value problem in an unknown domain into an algebraically nonlinear boundary-value problem in a known domain. Convergent series solutions are obtained not only for small amplitude water waves on a weak current but also for large amplitude waves on a strong current. The nonlinear wave-current interaction is studied in detail. It is found that an aiding shear current tends to enlarge the wave phase speed, sharpen the wave crest, but shorten the maximum wave height, while an opposing shear current has the opposite effect. Besides, the amplitude of waves and fluid velocity decay over the depth more quickly on an aiding shear current but more slowly on an opposing shear current than that of waves on still water. Furthermore, it is found that Stokes criteria of wave breaking is still valid for waves on a shear current: a train of propagating waves on a shear current breaks as the fiuid velocity at crest equals the wave phase speed. Especially, it is found that the highest waves on an opposing shear current are even higher and steeper than that of waves on still water. Mathematically, this analytic method is rather general in principle and can be employed to solve many types of nonlinear partial differential equations with variable coefficients in science, finance and engineering.     

On the interaction of deep water waves and exponential shear currents

A train of periodic deep-water waves propagating on a steady shear current with a vertical distribution of vorticity is investigated by an analytic method, namely the homotopy analysis method (HAM). The magnitude of the vorticity varies exponentially with the magnitude of the stream function, while remaining constant on a particular streamline. The so-called Dubreil–Jacotin transformation is used to transfer the original exponentially nonlinear boundary-value problem in an unknown domain into an algebraically nonlinear boundary-value problem in a known domain. Convergent series solutions are obtained not only for small amplitude water waves on a weak current but also for large amplitude waves on a strong current. The nonlinear wave-current interaction is studied in detail. It is found that an aiding shear current tends to enlarge the wave phase speed, sharpen the wave crest, but shorten the maximum wave height, while an opposing shear current has the opposite effect. Besides, the amplitude of waves and fluid velocity decay over the depth more quickly on an aiding shear current but more slowly on an opposing shear current than that of waves on still water. Furthermore, it is found that Stokes criteria of wave breaking is still valid for waves on a shear current: a train of propagating waves on a shear current breaks as the fiuid velocity at crest equals the wave phase speed. Especially, it is found that the highest waves on an opposing shear current are even higher and steeper than that of waves on still water. Mathematically, this analytic method is rather general in principle and can be employed to solve many types of nonlinear partial differential equations with variable coefficients in science, finance and engineering.     

Scattering of an incident acoustic wave by an infinite elastic cylinder in a shallow sea

The scattering of sound waves by an isotropic elastic circular cylinder of infinite extent in a water of finite depth is investigated taking into account the shear waves that can exist in addition to compressional waves in scatterers of solid material. The axis of the cylinder is parallel to the water level. The reflected and transmitted energies are plotted for the various values of the radius of the cylinder, and the farfield scattered pressure is obtained for various depth and presented in a graphical form. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Nonlinear low frequency water waves in a cylindrical shell subjected to high frequency excitations – Part I: Experimental study

This paper presents an experimental investigation on nonlinear low frequency gravity water waves in a partially filled cylindrical shell subjected to high frequency horizontal excitations. The characteristics of natural frequencies and mode shapes of the water–shell coupled system are discussed. The boundaries for onset of gravity waves are measured and plotted by curves of critical excitation force magnitude with respect to excitation frequency. For nonlinear water waves, the time history signals and their spectrums of motion on both water surface and shell are recorded. The shapes of water surface are also measured using scanning laser vibrometer. In particular, the phenomenon of transitions between different gravity wave patterns is observed and expressed by the waterfall graphs. These results exhibit pronounced nonlinear properties of shell–fluid coupled system.     

Resonant Interactions between Vortical Flows and Water Waves. Part I: Deep Water

Any weak, steady vortical flow is a solution to leading order of the inviscid fluid equations with a free surface, so long as this flow has horizontal streamlines coinciding with the undisturbed free surface. This work considers the propagation of irrotational surface gravity waves when such a vortical flow is present. In particular, when the vortical flow and the irrotational surface waves are both periodic, resonant interactions can occur between the various components of the flow. The periodic vortical component of the flow is proposed as a model for more complicated vortical flows that would affect surface waves in the ocean, such as the turbulence in the wake of a ship. These resonant interactions are studied in two dimensions, both in the limit of deep water (Part I) and shallow water (Part II). For deep water, the resonant set of surface waves is governed by “triad-like” ordinary differential equations for the wave amplitudes, whose coefficients depend on the underlying rotational flow. These coefficients are calculated explicitly and the stability of various configurations of waves is discussed. The effect of three dimensionality is also briefly mentioned.     

A Quasi‐Planar Model for Gravity‐Capillary Interfacial Waves in Deep Water

A dynamical model equation for interfacial gravity‐capillary (GC) waves between two semi‐infinite fluid layers, with a lighter fluid lying above a heavier one, is derived. The model proposed is based on the fourth‐order truncation of the kinetic energy in the Hamiltonian of the full problem, and on weak transverse variations, in the spirit of the Kadomtsev‐Petviashvilli equation. It is well known that for the interfacial GC waves in deep water, there is a critical density ratio where the associated cubic nonlinear Schrödinger equations changes type. Our numerical results reveal that, when the density ratio is below the critical value, the bifurcation diagram of plane solitary waves behaves in a way similar to that of the free‐surface GC waves on deep water. However, the bifurcation mechanism in the vicinity of the minimum of the phase speed is essentially similar to that of free‐surface gravity‐flexural waves on deep water, when the density ratio is in the supercritical regime. Different types of lump solitary waves, which are fully localized in both transverse and longitudinal directions, are also computed using our model equation. Some dynamical experiments are carried out via a marching‐in‐time algorithm.     

Qualitative theory of nonlinear steady water waves

In this paper, the nonlinear boundary problem describing two-dimensional steady waves on the surface of water with finite depth is discussed. The problem is formulated in the conventional statement (the gravity is taken into account, but the surface tension is neglected). The latter one allows discussing the whole class of bounded waves that includes periodic waves, solitary waves, and other types of waves (for instance, almost-periodic waves, although their existence has not been established yet). This fact suggests that the results obtained fall within the domain of the qualitative theory of differential equations (investigation of the properties of solutions without finding them). In this paper, two approaches to the qualitative theory are discussed. The first approach consists in averaging the solution along the vertical sections of the region, and the second approach is based on the authors’ modification of Byatt-Smith’s integro-differential equation. Thus, the paper contains an overview of the results obtained for the problem of nonlinear stationary waves on water with finite depth. Two approaches to this problem form a basis of the qualitative theory of such waves, because there are no constraints imposed on the waves except for the boundedness of their profiles and steepness restrictions.     

基于拟Shannon小波浅水长波近似方程组的数值解

本文研究了浅水长波近似方程组初边值问题的数值解.利用小波多尺度分析和区间拟Shannon小波,对浅水长波近似方程组空间导数实施空间离散,用时间步长自适应精细积分法对其变换所的非线性常微分方程组进行求解,得到了浅水长波近似方程组的数值解,并将此方法计算的结果与其解析解进行比较和验证.     

Solitary wave solutions to the Isobe-Kakinuma model for water waves

We consider the Isobe-Kakinuma model for two-dimensional water waves in the case of a flat bottom. The Isobe-Kakinuma model is a system of Euler-Lagrange equations for a Lagrangian approximating Luke's Lagrangian for water waves. We show theoretically the existence of a family of small amplitude solitary wave solutions to the Isobe-Kakinuma model in the long wave regime. Numerical analysis for large amplitude solitary wave solutions is also provided and suggests the existence of a solitary wave of extreme form with a sharp crest.     

Interaction of Shallow Water Waves

In this paper, we consider the Riemann problem and interaction of elementary waves for a nonlinear hyperbolic system of conservation laws that arises in shallow water theory. This class of equations includes as a special case the equations of classical shallow water equations. We study the bore and dilatation waves and their properties, and show the existence and uniqueness of the solution to the Riemann problem. Towards the end, we discuss numerical results for different initial data along with all possible interactions of elementary waves. It is noticed that in contrast to the p -system, the Riemann problem is solvable for arbitrary initial data, and its solution does not contain vacuum state.