Photostability of UV Absorber Systems in Sunscreens†

Sunscreens are used to protect the human skin against harmful UV radiation. Today there is a trend toward higher sun protection factors (SPF) and better UVA protection. Methods for the assessment of SPF and UVA protection involve irradiation of the product, and the photostability properties of the sunscreen have an influence on its performance. Sunscreens often contain more than one UV filter. Thus it is important to understand the photostability properties of the complete system. The filter combinations used may exhibit destabilizing, stabilizing or inert interactions. For that reason, besides assessment of the properties of the single filters, photostabilities of binary filter combinations are investigated. Destabilization occurs when two UV absorbers undergo a chemical reaction after absorption of UV radiation. Stabilization may be achieved when the optical density of the system is very high, giving rise to a self‐protection effect of the sunscreen film. Photounstable UV absorbers may be additionally stabilized by employing triplet quenchers. Being aware of these mechanisms and applying them for specific UV filter combinations can help in designing efficient sunscreens.     

Photostabilization of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate by bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), a new UV broadband filter

It is now well documented that chronic UVA exposure induces damage to human skin. Therefore, modern sunscreens should not only provide protection from both UVB and UVA radiation but also maintain this protection during the entire period of exposure to the sun. UVA filters, however, are rare and not sufficiently photostable. We investigated the effect of the introduction of a new UV filter, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), in oil in water sunscreen formulations on the photostability of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone [AVB]) after irradiation with an optically filtered Xenon arc source (UV irradiance adjusted at 1 mean effective dose [MED]/min). With spectrophotometrical methods to assess the sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA ratio and chromatographical methods to determine the amount of UV filters recovered after irradiation we showed that Tinosorb S prevented the photodegradation of AVB in a concentration-dependent way, leading to a sustained SPF and UVA ratio even after irradiation with doses of up to 30 MED. Since AVB was shown to destabilize ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHM) we tested the effect of Tinosorb S in sunscreens containing this UV filter combination. Here too Tinosorb S showed photoprotective properties toward both UV filters. Thus, Tinosorb S can be used successfully to improve the photostability and efficiency of sunscreens containing AVB and EHM.     

Sunscreens Containing Cyclodextrin Inclusion Complexes for Enhanced Efficiency: A Strategy for Skin Cancer Prevention

Unprotected exposure of skin to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) may damage the DNA of skin cells and can lead to skin cancer. Sunscreens are topical formulations used to protect skin against UVR. The active ingredients of sunscreens are UV filters that absorb, scatter, and/or reflect UVR. Preventing the formation of free radicals and repairing DNA damages, natural antioxidants are also added to sunscreens as a second fold of protection against UVR. Antioxidants can help stabilise these formulations during the manufacturing process and upon application on skin. However, UV filters and antioxidants are both susceptible to degradation upon exposure to sunlight and oxygen. Additionally, due to their poor water solubility, natural antioxidants are challenging to formulate and exhibit limited penetration and bioavailability in the site of action (i.e., deeper skin layers). Cyclodextrins (CDs) are cyclic oligosaccharides that are capable of forming inclusion complexes with poorly soluble drugs, such as antioxidants. In this review, we discuss the use of CDs inclusion complexes to enhance the aqueous solubility of antioxidants and chemical UV filters and provide a protective shield against degradative factors. The role of CDs in providing a controlled drug release profile from sunscreens is also discussed. Finally, incorporating CDs inclusion complexes into sunscreens has the potential to increase their efficiency and hence improve their skin cancer prevention.     

Sunscreens Protect from UV-Promoted Squamous Cell Carcinoma in Mice Chronically Irradiated with Doses of UV Radiation Insufficient to Cause Edema

Previously we reported that the broad-spectrum sunscreen microfine titanium dioxide (MTD) could completely protect C3H/HeJ mice from UV radiation-induced immunosuppression to a contact sensitizer. In contrast, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate (2-EHMC), a UVB-absorbing sunscreen, only partially protected the skin immune system. In this study we investigated further this differential protection of the skin immune system by comparing the ability of 2-EHMC and MTD to protect these mice from the promotion phase of tumorigenesis. The mice were initiated using a single subcarcinogenic dose of 7,12-dimethylbenz(a)anthracene (DMBA) followed by promotion with chronic low-dose solar-simulated UV radiation for 32 weeks. We used doses of UV insufficient to cause edema in order to simulate daily human exposure to solar UV radiation. Mice were observed for the appearance of squamous cell carcinomas for 48 weeks. The DMBA-initiation alone and DMBA-initiated, sunscreen-treated groups did not develop tumors. Ultraviolet alone induced the appearance of tumors in 46% of mice at week 48 and therefore some tumors were initiated by UV. Initiation with DMBA prior to UV irradiation enhanced tumorigenesis such that 87% of mice at week 48 had tumors. Both 2-EHMC and MTD completely protected these mice from UV-induced promotion as well as from complete carcinogenesis despite the different UV-absorption spectra of the sunscreens and their differential abilities to protect from UV-induced immunosuppression. Furthermore, we have shown that, if UV exposure is not increased to compensate for tolerance to edema, protection from tumorigenesis is afforded by sunscreens.     

Radical protection by sunscreens in the infrared spectral range

One essential reason for skin ageing is the formation of free radicals by excessive or unprotected sun exposure. Recently, free radical generation in skin has been shown to appear not only after irradiation in the UV wavelength range but also in the infrared (IR) spectral range. Sunscreens are known to protect against radicals generated by UV radiation; however, no data exist for those generated by IR radiation. This paper has investigated four different, commercially available sunscreens and one COLIPA standard with regard to radical formation in the skin after IR irradiation, using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. The use of sunscreens has led to reduced amounts of radicals compared to untreated skin. Furthermore, absorption and scattering properties and the radical protection factor of the formulations were determined to investigate their influence on the radical protection of the skin. None of these formulations contained an optical absorber in the IR range. The protection efficiency of the sunscreens was shown as being induced by the high scattering properties of the sunscreens, as well as the antioxidants contained in the formulations.     

Measurement of in vivo sunscreen immune protection factors in humans

This study investigates the level of protection provided by sunscreens against solar-simulated UV radiation-induced immunosuppression in humans. The in vivo immune protection factors (IPF) of two broad-spectrum sunscreens were determined by assessing their ability to prevent UV-induced suppression of nickel contact hypersensitivity (CHS) in 15 nickel-allergic volunteers. Each volunteer was irradiated on unprotected skin of the back with different doses of UV daily for 4 days. Multiples of these UV doses were concurrently delivered to sunscreen-treated sites on the contralateral back. Nickel patches were then applied to both irradiated sites and adjacent, unirradiated control sites. Nickel-induced erythema at each site was measured 72 h later with a reflectance spectrometer. Comparison of the nickel reactions of irradiated and unirradiated skin revealed linear UV dose-responses for immunosuppression in both unprotected and sunscreen-treated skin. The minimum level of immunosuppression that can be reliably detected with this method is 20%. Therefore, the UV dose that reduces mean nickel CHS by 20% is the minimal immune suppression dose (MISD). Sunscreen IPF were determined by dividing the mean MISD of sunscreen-treated skin by that of unprotected skin. The sunscreens, with sun protection factors of 9 and 24, had IPF of 6.5 and > 25, respectively.     

Determination of wavelength-specific UV protection factors of sunscreens in intact skin by EPR measurement of UV-induced reactive melanin radical

There remains an unmet need for skin tissue-based assays for the measurement of the UVA protection and efficacy of sunscreens. Here we describe development of a novel electron paramagnetic resonance assay that uses the photogeneration of reactive melanin radical as a measure of UV light penetration to melanocytes in situ in skin. We have used areas of focal melanocytic hyperplasia in the skin of Monodelphis domestica to model the human nevus. We show that we are able to use this assay to determine the monochromatic protection factors (mPF) of research and commercial sunscreens at specific narrow wavebands of UVB, UVA and blue visible light. Both commercial sunscreens, a sun protection factor (SPF) 4 and an SPF 30 product, had mPFs in the UVB range that correlated well with their claimed SPF. However, their mPF in the UVA ranges were only about one-third of claimed SPF. This technique can be used to design and assay sunscreens with optimally balanced UVA and UVB protection.     

Radical Protection by Differently Composed Creams in the UV/VIS and IR Spectral Ranges

Modern sunscreens are well suited to provide sufficient protection in the UV range because the filter substances absorb or scatter UV radiation. Although up to 50% of radicals are formed in the visible and infrared spectral range during solar radiation protection strategies are not provided in this range. Previous investigations of commercially available products have shown that in addition to physical filters, antioxidants (AO) are necessary to provide protective effects in the infrared range by neutralizing already formed radicals. In this study, the efficacy of filter substances and AO to reduce radical formation in both spectral ranges was investigated after UV/VIS or IR irradiation. Optical properties and radical protection were determined for the investigated creams. It was found that organic UV filters lower radical formation in the UV/VIS range to 35% compared to untreated skin, independent of the presence of AO. Further reduction to 14% was reached by addition of 2% physical filters, whereas physical filters alone were ineffective in the UV/VIS range due to the low concentration. In contrast, this filter type reduced radical formation in the IR range significantly to 65%; similar effects were aroused after application of AO. Sunscreens which contain organic UV filters, physical filters and AO ensure protection in the complete solar spectrum.     

Algorithm for in vitro Sun Protection Factor based on transmission spectrum measurement with concomitant evaluation of photostability

In the in vitro evaluation of Sun Protection Factor (SPF), the photostability of the ultraviolet (UV) filters can have a major impact, especially for high-SPF formulations, but is generally not taken into consideration. In this study, we present a UV transmission spectrum measurement system utilizing a high-sensitivity UV photomultiplier tube with concomitant evaluation of photostability. We have developed an algorithm to estimate SPF in vitro by converting the amount of UV light transmission through the sunscreen layer into cumulative relative erythema effectiveness to obtain one minimal erythema dose. Thus, the algorithm uses the same endpoint as in vivo SPF methods, but with a photomultiplier tube as the detector instead of skin. The values obtained showed an excellent correlation with in vivo SPF values, even for high-SPF sunscreens exceeding SPF 50. This method should be suitable as an in vitro SPF testing method for regulatory purposes.     

SUNSCREENS WITH BROAD-SPECTRUM ABSORPTION DECREASE THE trans TO cis PHOTOISOMERIZATION OF UROCANIC ACID IN THE HUMAN stratum corneum AFTER MULTIPLE UV LIGHT EXPOSURES

Abstract The trans to cis photoisomerization of urocanic acid (UCA) in skin is considered to play an important role in the mechanism of immunosuppression. We have investigated the effects of skin type and various sunscreens with low sun protection factor (SPF) on the UV-induced cis -UCA formation in human skin after exposure to artificial IJV light. The rate of cis -UCA formation depends little on the skin type and is reduced by topical application of sunscreens. The rate of cis -UCA formation decreases with increasing SPF and only broad-spectrum, highly protective sunscreens offer protection against the UV-induced formation of cis -UCA, which accumulates in the stratum corneum after multiple UV exposures. A theoretical approach to estimate the distribution of cis -UCA after irradiation indicates that this compound may diffuse into the deeper layers of the epidermis with D ∼ 10⁻¹⁷ m²/s, and that its elimination from the stratum corneum is mainly due to desquamation.     

A blocked diketo form of avobenzone: photostability, photosensitizing properties and triplet quenching by a triazine-derived UVB-filter

Novel sunscreens are required providing active protection in the UVA and UVB regions. On the other hand, there is an increasing concern about the photosafety of UV filters, as some of them are not sufficiently photostable. Avobenzone is one of the most frequently employed sunscreen ingredients, but it has been reported to partially decompose after irradiation. In the present work, photophysical and photochemical studies on a methylated avobenzone-derivative have shown that the diketo form is responsible for photodegradation. A transient absorption was observed at 380 nm after laser flash photolysis excitation at 308 nm. It was assigned to the triplet excited state of the diketo form, as inferred from quenching by oxygen and β-carotene. This transient also interacted with key building blocks of biomolecules by triplet–triplet energy transfer (in the case of thymidine) or electron transfer processes (for 2'-deoxyguanosine, tryptophan and tyrosine). Irradiation of the avobenzone derivative in the presence of a triazine UV-B filter (E-35852) diminished the undesirable effects of the compound by an efficient quenching of the triplet excited state. Thus, sunscreen formulations including triplet quenchers could provide effective protection from the potential phototoxic and photoallergic effects derived from poor photostability of avobenzone.     

Photoprotective effects of methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane

A new sunscreen ingredient, methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane (MCP-PSQ), which contains an UV-absorbing p-methoxycinnamoyl group, has been developed synthetically and evaluated using in vitro and in vivo approaches. Previous studies revealed that MCP-PSQ has a raising or boosting effect on the sun protection factor (SPF) of other sunscreen agents. In this study, we demonstrated that MCP-PSQ, an organic/inorganic hybrid compound, has photoprotective effects for human fibroblasts, and for hairless mouse and human skin. MCP-PSQ increases cell viability and suppresses the expression of p53 protein in fibroblasts after UV exposure. In addition, the numbers of sunburn cells and mast cells are reduced by topical application of MCP-PSQ on hairless mouse skin after UV irradiation. A 10% MCP-PSQ cream has higher and similar effects on SPF values for human skin compared to 5% titanium dioxide (TiO(2)) and 5% ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), respectively. The SPF value obtained using the MCP-PSQ cream did not drop after UV irradiation of the cream itself. However, higher dose of UV irradiation is required to guarantee the stability or photostability of the formulation. Further, there were no side effects such as erythema, edema, itch or tingling, suggesting that MCP-PSQ is a good sunscreen agent.     

New strategies of photoprotection

Adequate photoprotection is essential to control UV-related disorders, including sunburn, photoaging and photocarcinogenisis. Sun avoidance, protection of skin with clothing, and sunscreens are presently the best way of photoprotection, assuming that they are used properly. However, new strategies, which are based on or make use of the endogenous protective response to UV light, may further improve currently used photoprotective means. The addition of repair enzymes and/or antioxidants has a positive effect on skin's recovery from UV-induced DNA-damage. Several botanical agents, mainly vitamins and polyphenols, have shown to influence signal transduction pathways leading to photoprotective effects. Also stimulation of endogenous UV-response pathways via irradiation with a low UV dose or via simulation of UV-induced DNA-damage results in photoprotective effects. Future research in this field and combination of different photoprotective strategies will hopefully lead to improved photoprotection.     

The Photostabilizing Effect of Grape Seed Extract on Three Common Sunscreen Absorbers

The photostabilizing ability of grape seed extract on three common sunscreen absorbers, 2‐ethylhexyl‐p‐methoxycinnamate (EHMC), benzophenone‐3 (BP3) and tert‐butylmethoxy dibenzoylmethane (BMDBM), was investigated. Samples were exposed to simulated solar radiation and monitored by spectrophotometric and chromatographic methods. The chemical composition of the grape seed extract was determined by GC‐MS and HPLC‐MS, and the major secondary metabolites were found to be epicatechin and catechin. Exposure of the extract to UV radiation increased the UV absorption capacity of the extract. All sunscreens showed an improved photostability in the extract. The inherent photo‐instability of BMDBM when exposed to UV radiation was almost eliminated in the presence of grape seed extract. A mixture of all three sunscreens in the extract showed very high photostability and a red shift covering the entire UVB and UVA regions, thereby improving the broad‐spectrum protection. The incorporation of grape seed extract in sunscreen and other cosmetic formulations for topical application boosts photoprotection by stabilizing the UV filters and enhancing broad‐spectrum coverage. This in turn helps in reducing the amounts of absorbers and other additives incorporated in a sunscreen product and consequently lowers the risk of an unprecedented buildup of photoproducts whose toxicities are currently unknown.     

Photostability of the sunscreening agent 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) in solvents of different polarity and proticity

The most widely used UVA absorber in broad-spectrum sunscreens is 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone). However, the photostability of avobenzone is solvent-dependent. The aim of this work was to investigate the photostability of avobenzone in solvents of different polarity and proticity. Four solvents were employed, namely, cyclohexane, ethyl acetate, dimethylsulfoxide and methanol. The cause of the instability of avobenzone in these solvents was determined by means of UV spectroscopy, high performance liquid chromatography, gas chromatography–mass spectrometry and nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy. The effect of oxygen on the photo-instability was also determined. Avobenzone was found to lose absorption efficacy as a result of photoisomerisation from the enol to the keto form and/or photodegradation to form photoproducts that absorb principally in the UVC region, depending on the solvent. It was found to be essentially photostable in the polar protic solvent methanol but photoisomerised in the polar aprotic solvent dimethylsulfoxide. In the nonpolar solvent cyclohexane, it photodegraded appreciably. Both photoisomerisation and photodegradation occurred to a similar extent in the moderately polar aprotic solvent ethyl acetate. Photoisomerisation occurred only in the presence of oxygen whereas photodegradation occurred irrespective of oxygen. This knowledge is important in order to achieve the correct formulation for sunscreens incorporating avobenzone.     

UV-generated free radicals (FR) in skin: their prevention by sunscreens and their induction by self-tanning agents

In the past few years, the cellular effects of ultraviolet (UV) irradiation induced in skin have become increasingly recognized. Indeed, it is now well known that UV irradiation induces structural and cellular changes in all the compartments of skin tissue. The generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) is the first and immediate consequence of UV exposure and therefore the quantitative determination of free radical reactions in the skin during UV radiation is of primary importance for the understanding of dermatological photodamage. The RSF method (radical sun protection factor) herein presented, based on electron spin resonance spectroscopy (ESR), enables the measurement of free radical reactions in skin biopsies directly during UV radiation. The amount of free radicals varies with UV doses and can be standardized by varying UV irradiance or exposure time. The RSF method allows the determination of the protective effect of UV filters and sunscreens as well as the radical induction capacity of self-tanning agents as dihydroxyacetone (DHA). The reaction of the reducing sugars used in self-tanning products and amino acids in the skin layer (Maillard reaction) leads to the formation of Amadori products that generate free radicals during UV irradiation. Using the RSF method three different self-tanning agents were analyzed and it was found, that in DHA-treated skin more than 180% additional radicals were generated during sun exposure with respect to untreated skin. For this reason the exposure duration in the sun must be shortened when self-tanners are used and photoaging processes are accelerated.     

Fluorescence of sunscreens adsorbed to dielectric nanospheres: parallels to optical behavior on hacat cells and skin

Sunscreens applied to the skin are retained primarily in the stratum corneum, where they adsorb and act as a barrier preventing UV penetration to deeper layers. Photophysical properties of sunscreens have traditionally been studied either in solvents, which are very different from skin, or in skin or complex artificial skin systems, which are difficult to handle. The purpose of this study was to determine whether polystyrene nanospheres could serve as an improvement over solvents for evaluation of the photophysical properties of sunscreens without the presence of autofluorescence from and interactions with specific skin biomolecules. We used HaCat cells and excised skin for this comparative study with nanospheres. Fluorescence spectral properties of common hydrophobic sunscreens octyl salicylate, padimate O (2-ethylhexyl-4-dimethylaminobenzoate) and octyl methoxycinnamate adsorbed to 220 nm polystyrene spheres are similar to those of sunscreens adsorbed to HaCat cells and excised skin. Specifically, similarity in the emission peaks and their approximate positions, excitation peak positions and a measurable reduction in scattering upon sunscreen addition suggest that polystyrene nanospheres constitute a useful system to evaluate the photophysical properties of topical sunscreens and may serve as a model system for high-throughput evaluation of potential sunscreens. An unexpected result of this comparative study was the observation of an increase in a specific skin component emission caused by addition of padimate O.     

In vitro measurement of sun protection factor of sunscreens by diffuse transmittance

The measurement of sunscreens using an in vitro technique that correlates to in vivo measurements has been proposed for many years. In vivo testing, where human volunteers are subjected to potentially damaging and carcinogenic doses of ultraviolet radiation, has been the method of choice by regulatory agencies for determining the efficacy of sunscreens to protect humans from both sunburn (solar erythema) and potential skin cancers related to high UV doses. The problems with in vitro measurements are many fold. A normal spectrophotometer cannot accurately capture the transmitted light from a sunscreen, since both the media and the sunscreen may scatter the incident and transmitted radiation. Secondly, a suitable substrate for dispersing the potential sun protective agent must be found – a material that transmits sufficiently over the range of interest of measurement but also has a texture similar to the human epidermis to allow for proper dispersion of the sunscreen.

This paper will discuss the theory of measurement of diffuse transmittance measurements, including the various instrument geometries used to make such measurements. It will also address the calculations required to convert transmittance values to that of sun protection factor. Finally, there is a discussion of substrates for in vitro measurements.     

A mini-review on limitations associated with UV filters

Ultraviolet light from the sun can produce long-term skin damage and cancer. The use of sunscreen products containing one or more UV filters is encouraged by health professionals for preventing the damaging effects resulting from sun exposure. However, recently there have been increasing concerns about the use of sunscreens and their safety for both humans and the environment. The sunscreen manufacturers should take the initiative in testing of the products for possible short-term skin toxicity and long-term health effects that might occur due to the absorption of UV filters through the skin. Published studies have shed light on this topic by investigating the harmful effects of UV filters such as oxybenzone on the hormone system of aquatic animals and humans. Currently, in vitro and in vivo animal models are being used to determine the mechanistic and cellular effects these products produce. With growing awareness of adverse effects posed by UV filters on the environment and exposed organisms, several jurisdictions are prohibiting their use in sunscreens. To our knowledge, very few reviews summarized the potential toxicities associated with UV filters. Therefore, the current reported findings are rather controversial due to the lack of nonclinical safety assessment data to determine the clinical significance of such exposure.     

Immune regulation by polysaccharides: implications for skin cancer.

UV radiation causes sunburn, premature aging of the skin and is the major environmental carcinogen for squamous cell and basal cell skin cancer in humans. Besides causing mutations in DNA, UV radiation contributes to carcinogenesis by suppressing immune responses to highly antigenic, newly arising neoplasms. Strategies aimed at preventing UV-induced immune suppression, the mechanism of action of the agents used, and the significance of immune protection for prevention of skin cancer are reviewed. This review focuses on the use of plant polysaccharides to prevent immune damage triggered by UV radiation, an approach that goes beyond absorption of UV radiation by sunscreens as a means of reducing tissue damage. The efficacy and mechanism of action of these agents in preserving T cell-mediated immunity to model antigens in human beings and in laboratory animals are discussed.