A fully non‐linear model for three‐dimensional overturning waves over an arbitrary bottom

An accurate three‐dimensional numerical model, applicable to strongly non‐linear waves, is proposed. The model solves fully non‐linear potential flow equations with a free surface using a higher‐order three‐dimensional boundary element method (BEM) and a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian time updating, based on second‐order explicit Taylor series expansions with adaptive time steps. The model is applicable to non‐linear wave transformations from deep to shallow water over complex bottom topography up to overturning and breaking. Arbitrary waves can be generated in the model, and reflective or absorbing boundary conditions specified on lateral boundaries. In the BEM, boundary geometry and field variables are represented by 16‐node cubic ‘sliding’ quadrilateral elements, providing local inter‐element continuity of the first and second derivatives. Accurate and efficient numerical integrations are developed for these elements. Discretized boundary conditions at intersections (corner/edges) between the free surface or the bottom and lateral boundaries are well‐posed in all cases of mixed boundary conditions. Higher‐order tangential derivatives, required for the time updating, are calculated in a local curvilinear co‐ordinate system, using 25‐node ‘sliding’ fourth‐order quadrilateral elements. Very high accuracy is achieved in the model for mass and energy conservation. No smoothing of the solution is required, but regridding to a higher resolution can be specified at any time over selected areas of the free surface. Applications are presented for the propagation of numerically exact solitary waves. Model properties of accuracy and convergence with a refined spatio‐temporal discretization are assessed by propagating such a wave over constant depth. The shoaling of solitary waves up to overturning is then calculated over a 1:15 plane slope, and results show good agreement with a two‐dimensional solution proposed earlier. Finally, three‐dimensional overturning waves are generated over a 1:15 sloping bottom having a ridge in the middle, thus focusing wave energy. The node regridding method is used to refine the discretization around the overturning wave. Convergence of the solution with grid size is also verified for this case. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A new fully non‐hydrostatic 3D free surface flow model for water wave motions

A new fully non‐hydrostatic model is presented by simulating three‐dimensional free surface flow on a vertical boundary‐fitted coordinate system. A projection method, known as pressure correction technique, is employed to solve the incompressible Euler equations. A new grid arrangement is proposed under a horizontal Cartesian grid framework and vertical boundary‐fitted coordinate system. The resulting model is relatively simple. Moreover, the discretized Poisson equation for pressure correction is symmetric and positive definite, and thus it can be solved effectively by the preconditioned conjugate gradient method. Several test cases of surface wave motion are used to demonstrate the capabilities and numerical stability of the model. Comparisons between numerical results and analytical or experimental data are presented. It is shown that the proposed model could accurately and effectively resolve the motion of short waves with only two layers, where wave shoaling, nonlinearity, dispersion, refraction, and diffraction phenomena occur. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Further experiences with computing non‐hydrostatic free‐surface flows involving water waves

A semi‐implicit, staggered finite volume technique for non‐hydrostatic, free‐surface flow governed by the incompressible Euler equations is presented that has a proper balance between accuracy, robustness and computing time. The procedure is intended to be used for predicting wave propagation in coastal areas. The splitting of the pressure into hydrostatic and non‐hydrostatic components is utilized. To ease the task of discretization and to enhance the accuracy of the scheme, a vertical boundary‐fitted co‐ordinate system is employed, permitting more resolution near the bottom as well as near the free surface. The issue of the implementation of boundary conditions is addressed. As recently proposed by the present authors, the Keller‐box scheme for accurate approximation of frequency wave dispersion requiring a limited vertical resolution is incorporated. The both locally and globally mass conserved solution is achieved with the aid of a projection method in the discrete sense. An efficient preconditioned Krylov subspace technique to solve the discretized Poisson equation for pressure correction with an unsymmetric matrix is treated. Some numerical experiments to show the accuracy, robustness and efficiency of the proposed method are presented. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Dispersion and stability analyses of the linearized two‐dimensional shallow water equations in boundary‐fitted co‐ordinates

In the present investigation, a Fourier analysis is used to study the phase and group speeds of a linearized, two‐dimensional shallow water equations, in a non‐orthogonal boundary‐fitted co‐ordinate system. The phase and group speeds for the spatially discretized equations, using the second‐order scheme in an Arakawa C grid, are calculated for grids with varying degrees of non‐orthogonality and compared with those obtained from the continuous case. The spatially discrete system is seen to be slightly dispersive, with the degree of dispersivity increasing with an decrease in the grid non‐orthogonality angle or decrease in grid resolution and this is in agreement with the conclusions reached by Sankaranarayanan and Spaulding (J. Comput. Phys., 2003; 184 : 299–320). The stability condition for the non‐orthogonal case is satisfied even when the grid non‐orthogonality angle, is as low as 30° for the Crank Nicolson and three‐time level schemes. A two‐dimensional wave deformation analysis, based on complex propagation factor developed by Leendertse (Report RM‐5294‐PR, The Rand Corp., Santa Monica, CA, 1967), is used to estimate the amplitude and phase errors of the two‐time level Crank–Nicolson scheme. There is no dissipation in the amplitude of the solution. However, the phase error is found to increase, as the grid angle decreases for a constant Courant number, and increases as Courant number increases. Copyright © 2003 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Calculation of curved open channel flow using physical curvilinear non‐orthogonal co‐ordinates

There are two main difficulties in numerical simulation calculations using FD/FV method for the flows in real rivers. Firstly, the boundaries are very complex and secondly, the generated grid is usually very non‐uniform locally. Some numerical models in this field solve the first difficulty by the use of physical curvilinear orthogonal co‐ordinates. However, it is very difficult to generate an orthogonal grid for real rivers and the orthogonal restriction often forces the grid to be over concentrated where high resolution is not required. Recently, more and more models solve the first difficulty by the use of generalized curvilinear co‐ordinates (ξ,η). The governing equations are expressed in a covariant or contra‐variant form in terms of generalized curvilinearco‐ordinates (ξ,η). However, some studies in real rivers indicate that this kind of method has some undesirable mesh sensitivities. Sharp differences in adjacent mesh size may easily lead to a calculation stability problem oreven a false simulation result. Both approaches used presently have their own disadvantages in solving the two difficulties that exist in real rivers. In this paper, the authors present a method for two‐dimensional shallow water flow calculations to solve both of the main difficulties, by formulating the governing equations in a physical form in terms of physical curvilinear non‐orthogonal co‐ordinates (s,n). Derivation of the governing equations is explained, and two numerical examples are employed to demonstrate that the presented method is applicable to non‐orthogonal and significantly non‐uniform grids. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Boussinesq cut‐cell model for non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures

Boussinesq models describe the phase‐resolved hydrodynamics of unbroken waves and wave‐induced currents in shallow coastal waters. Many enhanced versions of the Boussinesq equations are available in the literature, aiming to improve the representation of linear dispersion and non‐linearity. This paper describes the numerical solution of the extended Boussinesq equations derived by Madsen and Sørensen (Coastal Eng. 1992; 15 :371–388) on Cartesian cut‐cell grids, the aim being to model non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures. An explicit second‐order MUSCL‐Hancock Godunov‐type finite volume scheme is used to solve the non‐linear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq‐type equations. Interface fluxes are evaluated using an HLLC approximate Riemann solver. A ghost‐cell immersed boundary method is used to update flow information in the smallest cut cells and overcome the time step restriction that would otherwise apply. The model is validated for solitary wave reflection from a vertical wall, diffraction of a solitary wave by a truncated barrier, and solitary wave scattering and diffraction from a vertical circular cylinder. In all cases, the model gives satisfactory predictions in comparison with the published analytical solutions and experimental measurements. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A numerical method for the determination of weakly non‐hydrostatic non‐linear free surface wave propagation

A numerical method is described that may be used to determine the propagation characteristics of weakly non‐hydrostatic non‐linear free surface waves over a general, bottom topography. In shallow water of constant undisturbed depth, such waves are equivalent to the familiar cnoidal waves characterized by sharp crests and relatively flat troughs. For a certain range of parameters, these propagate without change of form by virtue of the weakly non‐hydrostatic balance in the vertical momentum equation. Effectively, this counters the tendency for the non‐linearity in a purely hydrostatic theory to lead to a continuously deforming surface wave profile. The realistic representation furnished by cnoidal wave theory of free surface waves in the shallow near‐shore zone has led to its utilization in evaluating their propagation characteristics. Nonetheless, the classic analytical theory is inapplicable to the case of wave propagation over a sloping beach or off‐shore sand bar topography. Under these conditions, a local change in form of the surface wave profile is anticipated before the waves break and knowing this is required in order to evaluate fully the propagation process. The efficacy of the numerical method is first demonstrated by comparing the solution for water of constant depth with the evaluation of the analytical solution expressed in terms of the Jacobian elliptic function cn. The general method described in the paper is then illustrated by experiments to determine the change in profile of weakly non‐hydrostatic non‐linear surface waves propagating over bed forms representative of those found in shallow coastal seas. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A Petrov–Galerkin finite element model for one‐dimensional fully non‐linear and weakly dispersive wave propagation

A new finite element method is presented to solve one‐dimensional depth‐integrated equations for fully non‐linear and weakly dispersive waves. For spatial integration, the Petrov–Galerkin weighted residual method is used. The weak forms of the governing equations are arranged in such a way that the shape functions can be piecewise linear, while the weighting functions are piecewise cubic with C²‐continuity. For the time integration an implicit predictor–corrector iterative scheme is employed. Within the framework of linear theory, the accuracy of the scheme is discussed by considering the truncation error at a node. The leading truncation error is fourth‐order in terms of element size. Numerical stability of the scheme is also investigated. If the Courant number is less than 0.5, the scheme is unconditionally stable. By increasing the number of iterations and/or decreasing the element size, the stability characteristics are improved significantly. Both Dirichlet boundary condition (for incident waves) and Neumann boundary condition (for a reflecting wall) are implemented. Several examples are presented to demonstrate the range of applicabilities and the accuracy of the model. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A semi‐implicit finite element model for non‐hydrostatic (dispersive) surface waves

The objective of this research is to develop a model that will adequately simulate the dynamics of tsunami propagating across the continental shelf. In practical terms, a large spatial domain with high resolution is required so that source areas and runup areas are adequately resolved. Hence efficiency of the model is a major issue. The three‐dimensional Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes equations are depth‐averaged to yield a set of equations that are similar to the shallow water equations but retain the non‐hydrostatic pressure terms. This approach differs from the development of the Boussinesq equations where pressure is eliminated in favour of high‐order velocity and geometry terms. The model gives good results for several test problems including an oscillating basin, propagation of a solitary wave, and a wave transformation over a bar. The hydrostatic and non‐hydrostatic versions of the model are compared for a large‐scale problem where a fault rupture generates a tsunami on the New Zealand continental shelf. The model efficiency is also very good and execution times are about a factor of 1.8 to 5 slower than the standard shallow water model, depending on problem size. Moreover, there are at least two methods to increase model accuracy when warranted: choosing a more optimal vertical interpolation function, and dividing the problem into layers. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Numerical solutions of fully non‐linear and highly dispersive Boussinesq equations in two horizontal dimensions

This paper investigates preconditioned iterative techniques for finite difference solutions of a high‐order Boussinesq method for modelling water waves in two horizontal dimensions. The Boussinesq method solves simultaneously for all three components of velocity at an arbitrary z‐level, removing any practical limitations based on the relative water depth. High‐order finite difference approximations are shown to be more efficient than low‐order approximations (for a given accuracy), despite the additional overhead. The resultant system of equations requires that a sparse, unsymmetric, and often ill‐conditioned matrix be solved at each stage evaluation within a simulation. Various preconditioning strategies are investigated, including full factorizations of the linearized matrix, ILU factorizations, a matrix‐free (Fourier space) method, and an approximate Schur complement approach. A detailed comparison of the methods is given for both rotational and irrotational formulations, and the strengths and limitations of each are discussed. Mesh‐independent convergence is demonstrated with many of the preconditioners for solutions of the irrotational formulation, and solutions using the Fourier space and approximate Schur complement preconditioners are shown to require an overall computational effort that scales linearly with problem size (for large problems). Calculations on a variable depth problem are also compared to experimental data, highlighting the accuracy of the model. Through combined physical and mathematical insight effective preconditioned iterative solutions are achieved for the full physical application range of the model. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The solution of viscous incompressible jet flows using non‐staggered boundary fitted co‐ordinate methods

A new approach for the solution of the steady incompressible Navier–Stokes equations in a domain bounded in part by a free surface is presented. The procedure is based on the finite difference technique, with the non‐staggered grid fractional step method used to solve the flow equations written in terms of primitive variables. The physical domain is transformed to a rectangle by means of a numerical mapping technique. In order to design an effective free solution scheme, we distinguish between flows dominated by surface tension and those dominated by inertia and viscosity. When the surface tension effect is insignificant we used the kinematic condition to update the surface; whereas, in the opposite case, we used the normal stress condition to obtain the free surface boundary. Results obtained with the improved boundary conditions for a plane Newtonian jet are found to compare well with the available two‐dimensional numerical solutions for Reynolds numbers, up to Re=100, and Capillary numbers in the range of 0≤Ca<1000. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A horizontally curvilinear non‐hydrostatic model for simulating nonlinear wave motion in curved boundaries

A horizontally curvilinear non‐hydrostatic free surface model that embeds the second‐order projection method, the so‐called θ scheme, in fractional time stepping is developed to simulate nonlinear wave motion in curved boundaries. The model solves the unsteady, Navier–Stokes equations in a three‐dimensional curvilinear domain by incorporating the kinematic free surface boundary condition with a top‐layer boundary condition, which has been developed to improve the numerical accuracy and efficiency of the non‐hydrostatic model in the standard staggered grid layout. The second‐order Adams–Bashforth scheme with the third‐order spatial upwind method is implemented in discretizing advection terms. Numerical accuracy in terms of nonlinear phase speed and amplitude is verified against the nonlinear Stokes wave theory over varying wave steepness in a two‐dimensional numerical wave tank. The model is then applied to investigate the nonlinear wave characteristics in the presence of dispersion caused by reflection and diffraction in a semicircular channel. The model results agree quantitatively with superimposed analytical solutions. Finally, the model is applied to simulate nonlinear wave run‐ups caused by wave‐body interaction around a bottom‐mounted cylinder. The numerical results exhibit good agreement with experimental data and the second‐order diffraction theory. Overall, it is shown that the developed model, with only three vertical layers, is capable of accurately simulating nonlinear waves interacting within curved boundaries. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

An efficient and accurate non‐hydrostatic model with embedded Boussinesq‐type like equations for surface wave modeling

A novel approach that embeds the Boussinesq‐type like equations into an implicit non‐hydrostatic model (NHM) is developed. Instead of using an integration approach, Boussinesq‐type like equations with a reference velocity under a virtual grid system are introduced to analytically obtain an analytical form of pressure distribution at the top layer. To determine the size of vertical layers in the model, a top‐layer control technique is proposed and the reference location is employed to optimize linear wave dispersion property. The efficiency and accuracy of this NHM with Boussinesq‐type like equations (NHM‐BTE) are critically examined through four free‐surface wave examples. Overall model results show that NHM‐BTE using only two vertical layers is capable of accurately simulating highly dispersive wave motion and wave transformation over irregular bathymetry. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A σ‐coordinate non‐hydrostatic model with embedded Boussinesq‐type‐like equations for modeling deep‐water waves

A σ‐coordinate non‐hydrostatic model, combined with the embedded Boussinesq‐type‐like equations, a reference velocity, and an adapted top‐layer control, is developed to study the evolution of deep‐water waves. The advantage of using the Boussinesq‐type‐like equations with the reference velocity is to provide an analytical‐based non‐hydrostatic pressure distribution at the top‐layer and to optimize wave dispersion property. The σ‐based non‐hydrostatic model naturally tackles the so‐called overshooting issue in the case of non‐linear steep waves. Efficiency and accuracy of this non‐hydrostatic model in terms of wave dispersion and nonlinearity are critically examined. Overall results show that the newly developed model using a few layers is capable of resolving the evolution of non‐linear deep‐water wave groups. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Three‐dimensional numerical modelling of free surface flows with non‐hydrostatic pressure

A three‐dimensional numerical model is developed for incompressible free surface flows. The model is based on the unsteady Reynolds‐averaged Navier–Stokes equations with a non‐hydrostatic pressure distribution being incorporated in the model. The governing equations are solved in the conventional sigma co‐ordinate system, with a semi‐implicit time discretization. A fractional step method is used to enable the pressure to be decomposed into its hydrostatic and hydrodynamic components. At every time step one five‐diagonal system of equations is solved to compute the water elevations and then the hydrodynamic pressure is determined from a pressure Poisson equation. The model is applied to three examples to simulate unsteady free surface flows where non‐hydrostatic pressures have a considerable effect on the velocity field. Emphasis is focused on applying the model to wave problems. Two of the examples are about modelling small amplitude waves where the hydrostatic approximation and long wave theory are not valid. The other example is the wind‐induced circulation in a closed basin. The numerical solutions are compared with the available analytical solutions for small amplitude wave theory and very good agreement is obtained. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A depth‐integrated non‐hydrostatic finite element model for wave propagation

This paper presents a two‐dimensional finite element model for simulating dynamic propagation of weakly dispersive waves. Shallow water equations including extra non‐hydrostatic pressure terms and a depth‐integrated vertical momentum equation are solved with linear distributions assumed in the vertical direction for the non‐hydrostatic pressure and the vertical velocity. The model is developed based on the platform of a finite element model, CCHE2D. A physically bounded upwind scheme for the advection term discretization is developed, and the quasi second‐order differential operators of this scheme result in no oscillation and little numerical diffusion. The depth‐integrated non‐hydrostatic wave model is solved semi‐implicitly: the provisional flow velocity is first implicitly solved using the shallow water equations; the non‐hydrostatic pressure, which is implicitly obtained by ensuring a divergence‐free velocity field, is used to correct the provisional velocity, and finally the depth‐integrated continuity equation is explicitly solved to satisfy global mass conservation. The developed wave model is verified by an analytical solution and validated by laboratory experiments, and the computed results show that the wave model can properly handle linear and nonlinear dispersive waves, wave shoaling, diffraction, refraction and focusing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

An efficient curvilinear non‐hydrostatic model for simulating surface water waves

An efficient curvilinear non‐hydrostatic free surface model is developed to simulate surface water waves in horizontally curved boundaries. The generalized curvilinear governing equations are solved by a fractional step method on a rectangular transformed domain. Of importance is to employ a higher order (either quadratic or cubic spline function) integral method for the top‐layer non‐hydrostatic pressure under a staggered grid framework. Model accuracy and efficiency, in terms of required vertical layers, are critically examined on a linear progressive wave case. The model is then applied to simulate waves propagating in a canal with variable widths, cnoidal wave runup around a circular cylinder, and three‐dimensional wave transformation in a circular channel. Overall the results show that the curvilinear non‐hydrostatic model using a few, e.g. 2–4, vertical layers is capable of simulating wave dispersion, diffraction, and reflection due to curved sidewalls. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Finite element simulation of fully non‐linear interaction between vertical cylinders and steep waves. Part 1: methodology and numerical procedure

A methodology for computing three‐dimensional interaction between waves and fixed bodies is developed based on a fully non‐linear potential flow theory. The associated boundary value problem is solved using a finite element method (FEM). A recovery technique has been implemented to improve the FEM solution. The velocity is calculated by a numerical differentiation technique. The corresponding algebraic equations are solved by the conjugate gradient method with a symmetric successive overrelaxation (SSOR) preconditioner. The radiation condition at a truncated boundary is imposed based on the combination of a damping zone and the Sommerfeld condition. This paper (Part 1) focuses on the technical procedure, while Part 2 [Finite element simulation of fully non‐linear interaction between vertical cylinders and steep waves. Part 2. Numerical results and validation. International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids 2001] gives detailed numerical results, including validation, for the cases of steep waves interacting with one or two vertical cylinders. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.