气相色谱-质谱法测定化妆品中的防晒剂

采用气相色谱-质谱法测定了化妆品中11种防晒剂，通过对提取溶剂、提取条件的选择和线性、灵敏度、精密度、回收率等的研究，建立了测定化妆品中防晒剂的方法，11种防晒剂的平均回收率(n＝5)在98．2％-101．2％之间，相对标准偏差(n＝5)在0．3％-1．6％之间。     

气相色谱-质谱法测定化妆品中13种防晒剂

防晒剂广泛应用于化妆品中,是目前化妆品监管的重点。建立了同时测定化妆品中13种防晒剂的气相色谱-质谱(GC-MS)方法。化妆品样品经二氯甲烷提取后,涡旋超声后稀释。采用程序升温模式,经HP-5ms毛细管色谱柱(30 m×250 μm×0.25 μm)在30 min内对13种防晒剂实现分离,经电子轰击(EI)源电离后采用选择离子监测模式(SIM)扫描测定,外标法定量。比较了6种常用有机溶剂的基质效应和平均回收率,二氯甲烷的基质效应弱,平均回收率较高。13种防晒剂在相应的线性范围内线性关系良好,相关系数均大于0.998,检出限(LOD, S/N=3)为0.04~0.63 mg/g,定量限(LOQ, S/N=10)为0.12~2.10 mg/g。实验选取了两种基质,在3个水平下验证方法的回收率和精密度,13种防晒剂在霜类基质中的加标回收率为88.7%~103.6%,相对标准偏差(RSD, n=6)为1.7%~4.9%,在乳类基质中的加标回收率为88.4%~102.3%, RSD(n=6)为1.2%~3.9%。美白类化妆品常添加防晒剂成分,为监管盲区,采用该方法检测了5批含有防晒剂的美白类化妆品,其所含5种防晒剂的含量为0.8%~5.2%,符合相关要求。该方法操作简单,灵敏度高,回收率好,测定的13种防晒剂均为我国《化妆品安全技术规范》2015版规定的常用的限用组分,可以用于各类化妆品中13种防晒剂的定性定量测定,为市场监管和实验室检测提供新的技术支持。     

Unexpected photolysis of the sunscreen octinoxate in the presence of the sunscreen avobenzone

A major concern raised about photostability studies of sunscreen products is that the photodegradation of sunscreens does not readily translate into changes in product performance. This study examines the correlation between photochemical degradation of sunscreen agents and changes in protection provided by sunscreen films. Films of a commercial sunscreen product containing avobenzone, oxybenzone and octinoxate were irradiated using a fluorescent UV-A phototherapy lamp with additional UV-B blocking filter. Periodically, during irradiation the transmittances of the films were measured and samples collected for chemical analysis of the sunscreen agents using high-performance liquid chromatography techniques. The results show that UV-induced changes in UV transmittance of sunscreen films correlate with changes in concentration of sunscreen agents. In a parallel experiment, we also irradiated a thin film of the same product in the cavity of an electron spin resonance (ESR) spectrometer. We report the concomitant photolysis of avobenzone and octinoxate that predominates over expected E/Z photoisomerization and that irradiation of a film of this product produced free radicals detected by ESR spectroscopy that persisted even after exposure had ended.     

Photodecomposition of several compounds commonly used as sunscreen agents

The photolysis reactions of three compounds commonly used as a sunscreen agents, Parsol 1789 (1-[4-(1,1-dimethylethyl)phenyl]-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3- propanedione), Oxybenzone ((2-hydroxy-4-methoxyphenyl)phenyl-methanone) and Padimate O (2-ethylhexyl-4-(dimethylamino)benzoate), were investigated to provide a chemical background to aid in the understanding of the photosensitization of the sunscreen agents. Photolysis was carried out in cyclohexane for 70–140 h using a mercury vapor lamp (450W) without excluding oxygen.

Irradation of Parsol 1789 in cyclohexane yielded tert-butylbenzene, p-tert-butylbenzoic acid and p-methoxybenzoic acid; products obtained from the combination of the sunscreen with the solvent included the cyclohexyl esters of p-methoxybenzoic acid, p-tert-butylbenzoic acid and methanoic acid; products obtained from the solvent included cyclohexanol, cyclohexanone and dicyclohexyl ether.

Irradiation of Oxybenzone in the cyclohexane for 100 h produced no detectable products by either gas or liquid chromatographic analysis. Oxybenzone was recovered unchanged and no products were observed from the photoinitiated reaction of oxygen with the solvent.

Irradiation of Padimate O in cyclohexane yielded the ethylhexyl esters of p-aminobenzoic acid, p-monomethylaminobenzoic acid and p-dimethylamino (o/m)-methylbenzoic acid, as well as products from the photoinitiated reaction of oxygen with the solvent.     

高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中的12种紫外吸收剂

建立了高效液相色谱同时测定化妆品中12种紫外吸收剂含量的方法。样品用甲醇提取,高速离心,过滤,以SB-C8柱(250 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm)为分离色谱柱,甲醇和0.1%(v/v)甲酸水溶液为流动相,梯度洗脱,以311 nm为检测波长进行定性、定量分析。该方法前处理简单、易操作,12种紫外吸收剂分离效果良好;在1.0～500 mg/L范围内呈线性关系,相关系数大于0.9995;方法检出限为0.002～0.1 mg/L;实际样品中的加标回收率为97.4%～107.5%,相对标准偏差为1.54%～4.98%。该方法简便、准确,能够满足化妆品中紫外吸收剂的检测要求。     

Neutral desorption extractive electrospray ionization mass spectrometry for fast screening sunscreen agents in cream cosmetic products

High throughput analysis of sunscreen agents present in cream cosmetic has been demonstrated, typically 2 samples per minute, using neutral desorption extractive electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ND-EESI-MS) without sample pretreatment. For the targeted compounds such as 4-Aminobenzoic acid and oxybenzone, ND-EESI-MS method provided linear signal responses in the range of 1-100 ppb. Limits of detection (LOD) of the method were estimated at sub-ppb levels for the analytes tested. Reasonable relative standard deviation (RSD = 8.4-16.0%) was obtained as a result of 10 independent measurements for commercial cosmetics samples spiked with each individual sunscreen agents at 1-10 ppb. Acceptable recoveries were achieved in the range of 87-116% for direct analysis of commercial cream cosmetic samples. The experimental data demonstrate that ND-EESI-MS is a useful tool for high throughput screening of sunscreen agents in highly viscous cream cosmetic products, with the capability to obtain quantitative information of the analytes.     

A rapid method for determining recent sunscreen use in field studies

The role of sunscreens in preventing skin cancer and melanoma is the focus of ongoing research. Currently, there is no objective measure which can be used in field studies to determine whether a person has applied sunscreen to their skin, and researchers must use indirect assessments such as questionnaires. We sought to develop a rapid, non-invasive method for identifying sunscreen on the skin for use in epidemiological studies. Our basic method is to swab the skin, elute any residues which have been adsorbed onto the swab by rinsing in ethanol, and submit the eluted washings for spectrophotometric analysis. In a controlled study, we applied 0.1 ml of sunscreen to a 50 cm(2) grid on both forearms of 21 volunteers. Each forearm was allocated one of 10 different sunscreen brands. The skin was swabbed after intervals of 20 min, 1 h, 2 h and 4 h. In a field study conducted among 12 children aged 2-4 years attending a child care centre, sunscreen was applied to the faces of half the children. Swabs were then taken from the face and back of all children without knowledge of sunscreen status. In the controlled study, sunscreen was clearly detectable up to 2 h after application for all brands containing organic sunscreen, and marginally detectable at 4 h. In the field study, this method correctly identified all children with and without sunscreen. We conclude that spectrophotometric analysis of skin swabs can reliably detect the presence of sunscreen on the skin for up to 2 h after application.     

一测多评方法应用于高效液相色谱法测定防晒产品中15种防晒剂的含量

选用CAPCELL PAK C18色谱柱为分离柱,柱温为30℃,进样体积为10.0μL,并用不同比例的(A)甲醇、(B)四氢呋喃和(C)0.008 2mol·L^-1高氯酸溶液的混合液作为流动相,按程序梯度洗脱模式对市售防晒产品中所用的15种防晒剂的标准品进行色谱分离,并在波长311nm处进行紫外检测。实样分析时,称取样品0.25g,用甲醇、四氢呋喃、水和高氯酸(体积比为250∶450∶300∶0.2)的混合液(以下简称混合溶剂)15 mL超声提取30 min,用混合溶剂定容至25.0mL,离心10min,分取上清液1.0mL,加入混合溶剂定容至10.0mL,经0.45μm滤膜过滤,取滤液按仪器工作条件进行高效液相色谱分析。结果表明:所测定的15种防晒剂在一定的质量浓度范围内与其对应的峰面积呈线性关系。选定其中的二苯酮-3为参照物,并根据其余14种化合物的质量浓度和峰面积计算了各化合物的相对校正因子和相对保留时间等参数,确定了用一测多评法(QAMS)测定防晒产品中15种防晒剂的条件。还对色谱柱的型号、色谱仪器的型号以及柱温、进样量等对相对校正因子和保留时间可能产生影响的因素进行了系统试验。证明了在选定的色谱柱型号的前提下,用QAMS方法可实现防晒产品中15种防晒剂含量的同时测定。应用QAMS方法测定了6个批次防晒产品中的防晒剂含量,所得结果与用标准曲线法计算的结果基本一致,表明QAMS方法在降低检测成本和节省检测时间方面效果显著。     

Ultraviolet resonance Raman spectroscopy as a robust spectroscopic tool for in situ sunscreen analysis

Current techniques being used for sunscreen analysis are incapable of direct determination of the active ingredients in sunscreen formulations. Therefore, the development of methodologies for rapid in situ analysis of sunscreens is desirable. This paper describes the application of ultraviolet resonance Raman spectroscopy (UVRRS) to the direct in situ analysis of sunscreen formulations. High-quality UV resonance Raman spectra were obtained for five sunscreen active ingredients (AIs), mixtures of the AIs and real sunscreen formulation samples. The spectra from the sunscreen formulations gave distinct spectral signatures indicative of the sunscreen AIs in each sample, with essentially no interference from the complex sunscreen matrix. Also, despite the fact that many of the AIs are fluorescent, no fluorescence interferences in the resonance Raman spectra were observed. Excitation wavelength-dependent studies throughout the 244-275 nm region demonstrate that the best discrimination of the AIs was achieved at an excitation wavelength of 244 nm. Thus, by tuning the excitation wavelength within the absorption bands of the AIs, complete identification of these analytes can be achieved in situ without any sample pretreatment or separation. The limit of detection found for a common AI in situ with this technique is 0.23% (w/w), the limit of quantitation is 0.78% (w/w), while the dynamic range is between 0.8% and 50% (w/w). The technique is fast, robust, lacks any major interference, and can be adapted for routine online quality control.     

Determination of sunscreen agents in cosmetic products by supercritical fluid extraction and high-performance liquid chromatography

A rapid supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) procedure for the isolation of five of the most common sunscreen agents (2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor and 4-tert.-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane) from cosmetic products is described. Investigation of the factors affecting the extraction efficiency in SFE indicated that sunscreen recoveries were affected mainly by the supercritical CO₂ pressure and by the trapping method. The sunscreens were analyzed by reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography after a 10-min extraction of the cosmetic product with CO₂ at 250 bar and 40°C, using sequential glass surface and C₁₈ sorbent as collection system. A quantitative comparison of SFE with a liquid extraction procedure was performed on commercial cosmetics. The SFE method yielded recoveries higher than 94.8% compared with conventional liquid extraction and exhibited a precision better than 5.3% relative standard deviation. Moreover, SFE minimized sample handling, reduced the consumption of harmful solvents and afforded a more effective purification of the cosmetic matrices.     

The feasibility of using fluorescence spectroscopy as a rapid, non-invasive method for evaluating sunscreen performance

We have carried out ex vivo studies to examine the feasibility of using fluorescence spectroscopy as an in vivo quantitative technique to assess sunscreen substantivity in terms of skin surface thickness and/or photoprotection. We found that the majority of sunscreens produced insufficient natural fluorescence and so we have attempted to increase the fluorescent signal by adding various fluorescing agents to the sunscreens. However, none of these substances is ideal; either they do not bind sufficiently strongly to sunscreen products, or their fluorescence is quenched by the active ingredients contained within sunscreens. The feasibility of using fluorescence spectroscopy for in vivo quantitative assessments of sunscreen substantivity therefore remains unproved and is dependent on a suitable fluorescent agent being found. Such an agent would have to be non-toxic, mix readily with sunscreens and be excited by visible wavelengths.     

Synthesis and Evaluation of Chalcone Derivatives as Novel Sunscreen Agent

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation is a serious problem for skin health thus the interest in the research to develop sunscreen agent has been increasing. Chalcone is a promising compound to be developed as its chromophore absorbs in the UV region. Therefore, in the present work, we synthesized eight chalcone derivatives through Claisen–Schmidt condensation at room temperature. The evaluation of the optical properties of each chalcone derivatives in the UV region was conducted through spectroscopic and computational studies. The synthesized chalcones were obtained in good yields and they were active in the UV region. The results revealed that more methoxy substituents to chalcone leads toward red shift. All chalcone derivatives have high molar absorptivity value (21,000–56,000) demonstrating that they have the potential to be used as the sunscreen agent. The cytotoxicity assay showed that chalcone derivatives were demonstrating low toxicity toward normal human fibroblast cell, which is remarkable. Therefore, we concluded that the synthesized chalcones in this work were potential to be developed as novel sunscreen agents in real application.     

反相高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中的防晒剂

用反相高效液相色谱法在２０ｍｉｎ内同时测定化妆品中１１种防晒剂。色谱柱为ＹＷＧ－Ｃ１８柱,流动相为甲醇－四氢呋喃－水－高氯酸（２００２００１６００．１,Ｖ／Ｖ）,检测波长为３１１ｎｍ。报告了对１０３种防晒化妆品测定的结果。     

Application of a multivariate approach for analyte focusing by micelle collapse‐micellar electrokinetic chromatography for analyzing sunscreen agents in cosmetics

The operating parameters that affect the performance of the online preconcentration technique “analyte focusing by micelle collapse‐MEKC (AFMC‐MEKC)” were examined using a multivariate approach involving experimental design to determine the sunscreen agents in cosmetics. Compared to the single‐variable approach, the advantage of the multivariate approach was that many factors could be investigated simultaneously to obtain the best separation condition. A fractional factorial design was used to identify the fewest significant factors in the central composite design (cCD). The cCD was adopted for evaluating the location of the minimum or maximum response in this study. The influences of the experimental variables on the response were investigated by applying a chromatographic exponential function. The optimized condition and the relationship between the experimental variables were acquired using the JMP software. The ANOVA analysis indicated that the Tris pH value, SDS concentration, and ethanol percentage influenced the separation quality and significantly contributed to the model. The optimized condition of the running buffer was 10 mM Tris buffer (pH 9.5) containing 60 mM SDS, 7 mM γ‐CD, and 20% v/v ethanol. The sample was prepared in 100 mM Tris buffer (pH 9.0) containing 7.5 mM SDS and 20% v/v ethanol. The SDS concentration in the sample matrix was slightly greater than the CMC value that makes the micelle be easily collapsed and the analytes be accumulated in the capillary. In addition, sunscreen agents in cosmetics after 1000‐fold dilution were successfully determined by AFMC‐MEKC.     

Photoprotective effects of methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane

A new sunscreen ingredient, methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane (MCP-PSQ), which contains an UV-absorbing p-methoxycinnamoyl group, has been developed synthetically and evaluated using in vitro and in vivo approaches. Previous studies revealed that MCP-PSQ has a raising or boosting effect on the sun protection factor (SPF) of other sunscreen agents. In this study, we demonstrated that MCP-PSQ, an organic/inorganic hybrid compound, has photoprotective effects for human fibroblasts, and for hairless mouse and human skin. MCP-PSQ increases cell viability and suppresses the expression of p53 protein in fibroblasts after UV exposure. In addition, the numbers of sunburn cells and mast cells are reduced by topical application of MCP-PSQ on hairless mouse skin after UV irradiation. A 10% MCP-PSQ cream has higher and similar effects on SPF values for human skin compared to 5% titanium dioxide (TiO(2)) and 5% ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), respectively. The SPF value obtained using the MCP-PSQ cream did not drop after UV irradiation of the cream itself. However, higher dose of UV irradiation is required to guarantee the stability or photostability of the formulation. Further, there were no side effects such as erythema, edema, itch or tingling, suggesting that MCP-PSQ is a good sunscreen agent.     

Simultaneous electrochemical determination of three sunscreens using cetyltrimethylammonium bromide

This paper proposes a methodology based on electrochemical reduction for the simultaneous determination of three sunscreen agents, namely 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (MBC), benzophenone-3 (BENZO) and 2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (EHMC) by differential-pulse polarography (DPP). The highest peak currents and optimal separation of reduction peaks were obtained by using a supporting electrolyte consisted of Britton-Robinson buffer-methanol (8:2) solution at pH 4.0 and cationic surfactant 3.0 x 10(-4)mol L(-1) cetyltrimethylammonium bromide (CTAB). The methodology was validated using four commercial sunscreen preparation as a sample and the results showed high recovery rates. The efficiency of the proposed methodology was demonstrated by comparing the results obtained by DPP with those obtained by the high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method.     

Alternative methods to evaluate the protective ability of sunscreen against photo-genotoxicity

Numerous epidemiological investigations show that sunlight is carcinogenic to humans and that the use of sunscreen may be effective in decreasing the risk of skin cancer. The biological activity of a sunscreen is evaluated by its ability to protect human skin from erythema as represented by a Sun Protection Factor (SPF). We propose that the sunscreen's protective effect against sunlight-induced genotoxicity, including mutation, should also be taken into account. In this study we examined the protective ability of sunscreens against natural sunlight and UV-induced genotoxicity in Drosophila somatic cells. We prepared three kinds of sunscreen samples, each with an SPF value of 20, 40 or 60 and compared their protective activities with commercial sunscreens. When a sunscreen of SPF 20, 40 or 60 was pasted on the plastic cover of a petri dish in which Drosophila larvae were exposed to the sun or UV lamps, genotoxicity decreased as the SPF of the sunscreen increased, relative to levels of genotoxicity observed in samples without sunscreen. However, the protective abilities of sunscreens were unexpectedly not so different from each other. To reveal the relationship between the protective activity of sunscreen and the wavelength of light with which larvae were irradiated through the sunscreen, we measured the transmittance of light through the petri dish cover on which the sunscreen was pasted. Effective protection was demonstrated by removing components of light whose wavelengths were below 315 nm. We suggest, that the measurement of anti-genotoxic activity and the determination of the wavelengths of light transmitted through the sunscreen should be an alternative method for evaluating the effectiveness of a sunscreen.     

A Reevaluation of the Photolytic Properties of 2‐Hydroxybenzophenone‐Based UV Sunscreens: Are Chemical Sunscreens Inoffensive?

The excited states of a set of popular sunscreen agents (2‐hydroxybenzophenone, oxybenzone, and sulisobenzone) are studied by using femto‐ and nanosecond time‐resolved spectroscopy. Upon excitation, the compounds undergo an ultrafast excited‐state intramolecular proton transfer (ESIPT) reaction as the major energy‐wasting process and the rate constant of this reaction is k=2×10¹² s^?1. The ESIPT yields a keto conformer that undergoes a fast, picosecond internal conversion decay. However, a photodegradative pathway is a monophotonic H?O bond breakage that subsequently leads to trace yields of phenoxyl radicals. Because potentially harmful phenoxyl radicals are formed upon irradiation of sunscreen agents, care should be taken about their reactivity towards biologically relevant compounds.     

Determination of water-soluble UV-filters in sunscreen sprays by liquid chromatography

Liquid chromatography was used for the determination of the three most used water-soluble UV filters, benzophenone-4 (BZ4), terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDS), and phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid (PBS), in aqueous sunscreen sprays. A C18 stationary phase and an isocratic mobile phase of EtOH-20 mM sodium acetate buffer of pH 4.6 (30:70, v/v) were used at a flow-rate of 0.5 ml min(-1). Mobile phase was also used as solvent for samples and standards. UV detection was at 313 nm. The analytical run took 5.5 min. The limits of detection were 0.5, 0.9 and 2 microg ml(-1) for BZ4, TDS and PBS, respectively. The proposed method does not involve highly toxicsolvents.     

Determination of Pongamol and Karanjin in Karanja Oil By Reverse Phase Hplc

ABSTRACT

Pongamol and karanjin, naturally present in karanja (Pongamia glabra) oil possess potential UV A and UV B sunscreen activities, respectively. A reverse phase high performance liquid chromatography (RP-HPLC) method has been developed for direct estimation of these constituents of karanja oil. This method of analysis requires no sample preparation of active ingredients. The analysis uses methanol, water and acetic acid in the ratio of 85: 13.5: 1.5 as mobile phase at a flow rate of 0.5 ml/ min on a Kromasil 100 C18 column, ex Tracer (250mm X46mm, particle size 5 microns) and dual wavelength detection at 350 and 300 nm. 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxy cinnamate (Parsol MCX) was used as the internal standard. The identical UV spectrum of the chromatographic region (upslope, apex and downslope) confirmed that the analysis was free from substrate interference. The detection limits for pongamol and karanjin were found to be 0.1 μg/ml.