Exact Free Surface Flows for Shallow Water Equations I: The Incompressible Case

A comprehensive exact treatment of free surface flows governed by shallow water equations (in sigma variables) is given. Several new families of exact solutions of the governing PDEs are found and are shown to embed the well-known self-similar or traveling wave solutions which themselves are governed by reduced ODEs. The classes of solutions found here are explicit in contrast to those found earlier in an implicit form. The height of the free surface for each family of solutions is found explicitly. For the traveling or simple wave, the free surface is governed by a nonlinear wave equation, but is arbitrary otherwise. For other types of solutions, the height of the free surface is constant either on lines of constant acceleration or on lines of constant speed; in another case, the free surface is a horizontal plane while the flow underneath is a sine wave. The existence of simple waves on shear flows is analytically proved. The interaction of large amplitude progressive waves with shear flow is also studied.     

A Model Equation for Wavepacket Solitary Waves Arising from Capillary-Gravity Flows

A model equation governing the primitive dynamics of wave packets near an extremum of the linear dispersion relation at finite wavenumber is derived. In two spatial dimensions, we include the effects of weak variation of the wave in the direction transverse to the direction of propagation. The resulting equation is contrasted with the Kadomtsev–Petviashvilli and Nonlinear Schrödinger (NLS) equations. The model is derived as an approximation to the equations for deep water gravity-capillary waves, but has wider applications. Both line solitary waves and solitary waves which decay in both the transverse and propagating directions—lump solitary waves—are computed. The stability of these waves is investigated and their dynamics are studied via numerical time evolution of the equation.     

Solitary waves of the EW and RLW equations

Eight finite difference methods are employed to study the solitary waves of the equal-width (EW) and regularized long–wave (RLW) equations. The methods include second-order accurate (in space) implicit and linearly implicit techniques, a three-point, fourth-order accurate, compact operator algorithm, an exponential method based on the local integration of linear, second-order ordinary differential equations, and first- and second-order accurate temporal discretizations. It is shown that the compact operator method with a Crank–Nicolson discretization is more accurate than the other seven techniques as assessed for the three invariants of the EW and RLW equations and the L₂-norm errors when the exact solution is available. It is also shown that the use of Gaussian initial conditions may result in the formation of either positive or negative secondary solitary waves for the EW equation and the formation of positive solitary waves with or without oscillating tails for the RLW equation depending on the amplitude and width of the Gaussian initial conditions. In either case, it is shown that the creation of the secondary wave may be preceded by a steepening and an narrowing of the initial condition. The creation of a secondary wave is reported to also occur in the dissipative RLW equation, whereas the effects of dissipation in the EW equation are characterized by a decrease in amplitude, an increase of the width and a curving of the trajectory of the solitary wave. The collision and divergence of solitary waves of the EW and RLW equations are also considered in terms of the wave amplitude and the invariants of these equations.     

Solitary waves of the EW and RLW equations

Eight finite difference methods are employed to study the solitary waves of the equal-width (EW) and regularized long–wave (RLW) equations. The methods include second-order accurate (in space) implicit and linearly implicit techniques, a three-point, fourth-order accurate, compact operator algorithm, an exponential method based on the local integration of linear, second-order ordinary differential equations, and first- and second-order accurate temporal discretizations. It is shown that the compact operator method with a Crank–Nicolson discretization is more accurate than the other seven techniques as assessed for the three invariants of the EW and RLW equations and the L₂-norm errors when the exact solution is available. It is also shown that the use of Gaussian initial conditions may result in the formation of either positive or negative secondary solitary waves for the EW equation and the formation of positive solitary waves with or without oscillating tails for the RLW equation depending on the amplitude and width of the Gaussian initial conditions. In either case, it is shown that the creation of the secondary wave may be preceded by a steepening and an narrowing of the initial condition. The creation of a secondary wave is reported to also occur in the dissipative RLW equation, whereas the effects of dissipation in the EW equation are characterized by a decrease in amplitude, an increase of the width and a curving of the trajectory of the solitary wave. The collision and divergence of solitary waves of the EW and RLW equations are also considered in terms of the wave amplitude and the invariants of these equations.     

Evolution of Higher-Order Gray Hirota Solitary Waves

The defocusing Hirota equation has dark and gray soliton solutions which are stable on a background of periodic waves of constant amplitude. In this paper, gray solitary wave evolution for a higher-order defocusing Hirota equation is examined. A direct analysis is used to identify families of higher-order gray Hirota solitary waves, which are embedded for certain parameter values. Soliton perturbation theory is used to determine the detailed behavior of an evolving higher-order gray Hirota solitary wave. An integral expression for the first-order correction to the wave is found and analytical expressions for the steady-state and transient components of the solitary wave tail are derived. A subtle and complex picture of the development of solitary wave tails emerges. It is found that solitary wave tails develop for two reasons, one is decay of the solitary wave caused by resonance, the second is corrections at first-order to the background wave. Strong agreement is found between the theoretical predictions of the perturbation theory and numerical solutions of the governing equations.     

Solitary waves in the nolinear wave equation and in gauge theories

Roughly speaking a solitary wave is a solution of a field equation whose energy travels as a localized packet and which preserves this localization in time. This paper is an introduction to the study of solitary waves relative to the nonlinear wave equation and to the Abelian gauge theories. Abelian gauge theories consist of a class of field equations obtained by coupling in a suitable way the nonlinear wave equation with the Maxwell equations. They provide a model for the interaction of matter with the electromagnetic field. One of the motivations of this study lies in the fact that the nonlinear wave equation and the Abelian gauge theories are the simplest equations which satisfy the basic principles of modern physics. Dedicated to the memory of Jean Leray     

一个两流体系统中mKdV孤立波的迎撞*

本文从文[2]的基本方程出发,采用约化摄动方法和PLK方法,讨论了三阶非线性和色散效应相平衡的修正的KdV(mKdV)孤立波迎撞问题.这些波在流体密度比等于流体深度比平方的两流体系统界面上传播.我们求得了二阶摄动解,发现在不考虑非均匀相移的情况下,碰撞后孤立波保持原有的形状,这与Fornberg和whitham[6]的追撞数值分析结果一致,但当考虑波的非均匀相移后,碰撞后波形将变化.     

A mapping technique for numerical computations of bed evolutions

Free surface flow is one of the most difficult problems in engineering to be solved, since velocity and pressure fields depend on the free surface. On the other hand, the position of the free surface is unknown previously. Furthermore, the boundary condition on the free surface is expressed by a complicated equation. In an alluvial stream, where the boundaries of the domain are not fixed, addition of free surface at the bed will increase this difficulty. A domain mapping technique is developed in this paper to study the bed evolutions. The flow is considered 2D, choosing two coordinates in streamwise and upward directions. With a proper transformation, the hydrodynamics and sediment transport governing equations in irregular domain will be mapped into a simple rectangular one. The new domain can be discretize by finite elements. The transformed governing equations are solved to obtain desired variables in the mapped domain. With a proper transformation, there is no need of inverse mapping to obtain the free water surface profile and bedform evolution and migration in the actual domain. The model has been applied to streams with movable bed and the results show a good agreement with the experimental experiences.     

The long‐wave limit for the water wave problem I. The case of zero surface tension

The Korteweg‐de Vries equation, Boussinesq equation, and many other equations can be formally derived as approximate equations for the two‐dimensional water wave problem in the limit of long waves. Here we consider the classical problem concerning the validity of these equations for the water wave problem in an infinitely long canal without surface tension. We prove that the solutions of the water wave problem in the long‐wave limit split up into two wave packets, one moving to the right and one to the left, where each of these wave packets evolves independently as a solution of a Korteweg‐de Vries equation. Our result allows us to describe the nonlinear interaction of solitary waves. © 2000 John Wiley & Sons, Inc.     

On the pressure transfer function for solitary water waves with vorticity

In this paper we analyse the role which the pressure function on the sea-bed plays in determining solitary waves with vorticity. We prove that the pressure function on the flat bed determines a unique, real analytic solitary wave solution to the governing equations, given a real analytic vorticity distribution. In particular, the pressure function on the flat bed prescribes a unique surface profile for the resulting solitary water wave.     

Perturbation Theory for the Solitary Wave Solutions to a Sasa‐Satsuma Model Describing Nonlinear Internal Waves in a Continuously Stratified Fluid

The adiabatic evolution of perturbed solitary wave solutions to an extended Sasa‐Satsuma (or vector‐valued modified Korteweg–de Vries) model governing nonlinear internal gravity propagation in a continuously stratified fluid is considered. The transport equations describing the evolution of the solitary wave parameters are determined by a direct multiple‐scale asymptotic expansion and independently by phase‐averaged conservation relations for an arbitrary perturbation. As an example, the adiabatic evolution associated with a dissipative perturbation is explicitly determined. Unlike the case with the dissipatively perturbed modified Korteweg–de Vries equation, the adiabatic asymptotic expansion for the Sasa‐Satsuma model considered here is not exponentially nonuniform and no shelf region emerges in the lee‐side of the propagating solitary wave.     

A finite difference method for the Korteweg-de Vries and the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equations

A linearized implicit finite difference method for the Korteweg-de Vries equation is proposed and straightforwardly extended to the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation. We investigate the order of accuracy of the method and prove the method to be unconditionally linearly stable. The numerical experiments for the Korteweg-de Vries and the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equations are carried out with various conditions. Numerical results for the collision of two lump type solitary wave solutions to the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation are also reported.     

Forced motion of breathers and domain boundaries against the background of nonlinear magnetization wave

Exact solutions of Landau–Lifshitz equation for a ferromagnet with an easy-axis anisotropy, which describe interaction of nonlinear precession wave of large amplitude with soliton-like objects, such as breathers, solitary domains and domain boundaries, are found by the “dressing” method. The change of the internal structure and physical parameters of solitons due to interaction with magnetization wave is analyzed. It is shown, that both solitary domains and domain walls move toward the wave. The conditions for the destruction of solitons by the nonlinear magnetization wave are obtained. An infinite series of integrals of motion, that stabilize the solitons on the background of magnetization wave, is found.     

Interaction of a Solitary Wave with an External Force Moving with Variable Speed

The interaction of a solitary wave with an external force moving with constant acceleration is studied within the forced Korteweg-de Vries equation. For the case of a weak isolated force an asymptotic model based on equations for the amplitude and position of the solitary wave is developed. Phase portraits for this asymptotic system are obtained analytically and numerically. Analysis has shown that an accelerated force of either sign can capture a solitary wave if the acceleration is less than a certain critical value, depending on the forcing amplitude (for the case of a constant force speed only a positive force can capture a solitary wave). Direct numerical simulation of the forced Korteweg-de Vries equation has confirmed the predictions of the asymptotic model. Also, it is shown numerically that the accelerated force can capture more than one solitary wave.     

有限深两层流中内孤立波的高阶解*

本文研究有限水深两层流中孤立波的三阶近似理论,并考虑了自由表面对孤立波的影响,运用坐标变形方法得到了三阶内孤立波的发展方程,求得波速的解析表达式。对方程进行了数值计算,得到了几种参数下三阶解曲线,指出自由表面对波型和波速的影响是二阶的。计算表明三阶解对一阶、二阶解有明显的改进,使其更加接近试验结果。     

Do peaked solitary water waves indeed exist?

Many models of shallow water waves, such as the famous Camassa–Holm equation, admit peaked solitary waves. However, it is an open question whether or not the widely accepted peaked solitary waves can be derived from the fully nonlinear wave equations. In this paper, a unified wave model (UWM) based on the symmetry and the fully nonlinear wave equations is put forward for progressive waves with permanent form in finite water depth. Different from traditional wave models, the flows described by the UWM are not necessarily irrotational at crest, so that it is more general. The unified wave model admits not only the traditional progressive waves with smooth crest, but also a new kind of solitary waves with peaked crest that include the famous peaked solitary waves given by the Camassa–Holm equation. Besides, it is proved that Kelvin’s theorem still holds everywhere for the newly found peaked solitary waves. Thus, the UWM unifies, for the first time, both of the traditional smooth waves and the peaked solitary waves. In other words, the peaked solitary waves are consistent with the traditional smooth ones. So, in the frame of inviscid fluid, the peaked solitary waves are as acceptable and reasonable as the traditional smooth ones. It is found that the peaked solitary waves have some unusual and unique characteristics. First of all, they have a peaked crest with a discontinuous vertical velocity at crest. Especially, unlike the traditional smooth waves that are dispersive with wave height, the phase speed of the peaked solitary waves has nothing to do with wave height, but depends (for a fixed wave height) on its decay length, i.e., the actual wavelength: in fact, the peaked solitary waves are dispersive with the actual wavelength when wave height is fixed. In addition, unlike traditional smooth waves whose kinetic energy decays exponentially from free surface to bottom, the kinetic energy of the peaked solitary waves either increases or almost keeps the same. All of these unusual properties show the novelty of the peaked solitary waves, although it is still an open question whether or not they are reasonable in physics if the viscosity of fluid and surface tension are considered.     

用时变雷诺方程模型模拟孤立波与半圆型防波堤的相互作用

以时变雷诺方程为控制方程,用k-ε模型封闭该方程,采用体积函数(VOF)方法来跟踪波动自由表面,建立了二维垂向波浪数学模型,并用已有的实验资料进行了验证．随后用该模型模拟了半圆型防波堤与孤立波在淹没、平顶水位、完全露顶且不越浪3种典型工况下的相互作用过程．得到了半圆堤附近的流场、压强场和波面的变形过程．结果表明,在淹没状态下,半圆堤背浪面的底部会产生涡旋;平顶水位时,由于越浪的冲击作用,在半圆堤的背浪面将逐渐形成一对较大的涡旋,而半圆堤背浪面的底部,速度始终相对较小;而在露顶不越浪时,半圆堤的迎浪面会出现波浪的二次爬升的现象．为进一步研究结构物附近的污染物的输移扩散和泥沙运动提供基础．     

Exact solitary wave solutions of nonlinear wave equations

The hyperbolic function method for nonlinear wave equations is presented. In support of a computer algebra system, many exact solitary wave solutions of a class of nonlinear wave equations are obtained via the method. The method is based on the fact that the solitary wave solutions are essentially of a localized nature. Writing the solitary wave solutions of a nonlinear wave equation as the polynomials of hyperbolic functions, the nonlinear wave equation can be changed into a nonlinear system of algebraic equations. The system can be solved via Wu Elimination or Gr?bner base method. The exact solitary wave solutions of the nonlinear wave equation are obtained including many new exact solitary wave solutions.     

Rotational waves generated by current‐topography interaction

We study nonlinear free‐surface rotational waves generated through the interaction of a vertically sheared current with a topography. Equivalently, the waves may be generated by a pressure distribution along the free surface. A forced Korteweg–de Vries equation (fKdV) is deduced incorporating these features. The weakly nonlinear, weakly dispersive reduced model is valid for small amplitude topographies. To study the effect of gradually increasing the topography amplitude, the free surface Euler equations are formulated in the presence of a variable depth and a sheared current of constant vorticity. Under constant vorticity, the harmonic velocity component is formulated in a simplified canonical domain, through the use of a conformal mapping which flattens both the free surface as well as the bottom topography. Critical, supercritical, and subcritical Froude number regimes are considered, while the bottom amplitude is gradually increased in both the irrotational and rotational wave regimes. Solutions to the fKdV model are compared to those from the Euler equations. We show that for rotational waves the critical Froude number is shifted away from 1. New stationary solutions are found and their stability tested numerically.     

Soliton interaction for the extended Korteweg-de Vries equation

Soliton interactions for the extended Korteweg-de Vries (KdV)equation are examined. It is shown that the extended KdV equationcan be transformed (to its order of approximation) to a higher-ordermember of the KdV hierarchy of integrable equations. This transformationis used to derive the higher-order, two-soliton solution forthe extended KdV equation. Hence it follows that the higher-ordersolitary-wave collisions are elastic, to the order of approximationof the extended KdV equation. In addition, the higher-ordercorrections to the phase shifts are found. To examine the exactnature of higher-order, solitary-wave collisions, numericalresults for various special cases (including surface waves onshallow water) of the extended KdV equation are presented. Thenumerical results show evidence of inelastic behaviour wellbeyond the order of approximation of the extended KdV equation;after collision, a dispersive wavetrain of extremely small amplitudeis found behind the smaller, higher-order solitary wave.