Local run-up amplification by resonant wave interactions

Until now, the analysis of long wave run-up on a plane beach has been focused on finding its maximum value, failing to capture the existence of resonant regimes. One-dimensional numerical simulations in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water equations are used to investigate the boundary value problem for plane and nontrivial beaches. Monochromatic waves, as well as virtual wave-gage recordings from real tsunami simulations, are used as forcing conditions to the boundary value problem. Resonant phenomena between the incident wavelength and the beach slope are found to occur, which result in enhanced run-up of nonleading waves. The evolution of energy reveals the existence of a quasiperiodic state for the case of sinusoidal waves. Dispersion is found to slightly reduce the value of maximum run-up but not to change the overall picture. Run-up amplification occurs for both leading elevation and depression waves.     

Berkhoff approximation in a problem on surface gravity wave propagation in a basin with bottom irregularities

The problem of the propagation of small-amplitude surface gravity waves in a basin of constant mean depth with one- and two-dimensional bottom roughness is solved in the framework of the Berkhoff model by a mean-field method. In both cases the solutions obtained are compared with the solutions of sets of exact linearized equations of the hydrodynamics of an incompressible fluid. The comparison of the exact and approximate mean-field attenuation coefficients has shown that the Berkhoff approximation is appropriate for the solution of this problem in the case of shallow water for an arbitrary correlation length of bottom irregularities and in the case of arbitrary depth and large-scale irregularities. An explanation is given for the limits of applicability of the Berkhoff approximation which are connected with the weak variability of the vertical structure of the wave field in shallow water and in a basin with large-scale depth fluctuations. The mean-field attenuation coefficients reach their maximum values in the region k_oh_o≥1 (where k_o is the wavenumber of the surface gravity wave in a basin of constant depth h_o). The location of these maxima is practically independent of the correlation length of the bottom irregularities. For the case of one-dimensional irregularities the effect of bottom roughness on the surface gravity wave velocity is investigated. It is shown that the surface wave in a basin with an uneven bottom may propagate more slowly, as well as faster than the wave in a basin with an even bottom, depending on the relations between the wavelength, depth and correlation length of the bottom imperfections.     

大尺度浅水波方程中相互调制的非线性波

基于一般的浅水波方程, 根据大尺度正压大气的特点, 得到无量纲的控制大尺度大气的动力学非线性方程组. 利用多尺度法, 由无量纲的动力学方程组导出了扰动位势的非线性控制方程. 采用椭圆方程构造该扰动位势控制方程的解, 获得了扰动位势和速度的多周期波与冲击波(爆炸波) 并存的解析解. 扰动位势的解表明经向和纬向具有不同周期和波长的周期波, 且都受纬向孤波的调制; 速度的解表明大尺度大气流动存在气旋和反气旋周期性分布的现象. 关键词： 浅水波方程 大尺度正压大气 解析解 非线性波     

浅海小掠射角的海底界面声反向散射模型的简化

在浅海,尤其是负梯度声速剖面和海面较为平静的浅海波导,海底界面反向散射是浅海混响的主要来源.经验散射模型只适用于分析浅海混响平均强度衰减特性,而基于物理机理建立的反向散射模型克服了这一缺陷,但同时也引入了其受地声模型约束的问题.本文结合了海底反射系数的三参数模型,对浅海远场海底反向散射模型进行了简化,以减少地声模型的输入参数.理论分析了海底反射系数的相移参数可以描述海底对声场的散射作用,无需任何海底地声参数的先验知识.通过对海底反向散射模型近似简化,结果表明在临界角附近和甚小掠射角范围内的海底粗糙界面反向散射模型的角度特性和强度特性受海底沉积层的影响不同:在临界角附近,海底反向散射的角度特性受海底反射系数的相移参数加权,而其散射系数则近似与相移参数无关;对于甚小掠射角,海底反向散射的角度特性近似与海底反射系数的相移参数无关,其散射系数则近似与相移参数的4次方成正比.     

Rogue edge waves in the ocean

Theoretically possible rogue edge wave are studied over cylindrical bottom in the framework of nonlinear shallow water equations in a weakly nonlinear limit. The nonlinear mechanisms (nonlinear dispersion enhancement, modulation instability and multimodal interactions) of possible anomalous edge wave appearance are analyzed.     

浅海近程混响的振荡现象*

研究浅海近程混响特性对于评估和提高主动声纳性能具有重要意义。多次浅海混响实验显示,近程混响强度存在稳定的振荡现象,脉宽基本对振荡的幅度和周期没有影响。为解释这一现象,本文基于射线理论和小斜率近似给出了浅海近程混响模型,仿真与实测数据结果基本吻合。数值仿真结果表明：海底反射声场对单站声纳接收到回声信号的贡献远小于海底近垂向大掠射角散射声场的作用;混响强度振荡现象是海底近程散射声场的多途现象造成的,并由此给出了振荡周期与海深及收发深度的关系。     

A splitting approach for the fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green–Naghdi model

The fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green–Naghdi model for shallow water waves of large amplitude is studied. The original model is first recast under a new formulation more suitable for numerical resolution. An hybrid finite volume and finite difference splitting approach is then proposed, which could be adapted to many physical models that are dispersive corrections of hyperbolic systems. The hyperbolic part of the equations is handled with a high-order finite volume scheme allowing for breaking waves and dry areas. The dispersive part is treated with a classical finite difference approach. Extensive numerical validations are then performed in one horizontal dimension, relying both on analytical solutions and experimental data. The results show that our approach gives a good account of all the processes of wave transformation in coastal areas: shoaling, wave breaking and run-up.     

Rogue waves in shallow water

Most of the processes resulting in the formation of unexpectedly high surface waves in deep water (such as dispersive and geometrical focusing, interactions with currents and internal waves, reflection from caustic areas, etc.) are active also in shallow areas. Only the mechanism of modulational instability is not active in finite depth conditions. Instead, wave amplification along certain coastal profiles and the drastic dependence of the run-up height on the incident wave shape may substantially contribute to the formation of rogue waves in the nearshore. A unique source of long-living rogue waves (that has no analogues in the deep ocean) is the nonlinear interaction of obliquely propagating solitary shallow-water waves and an equivalent mechanism of Mach reflection of waves from the coast. The characteristic features of these processes are (i) extreme amplification of the steepness of the wave fronts, (ii) change in the orientation of the largest wave crests compared with that of the counterparts and (iii) rapid displacement of the location of the extreme wave humps along the crests of the interacting waves. The presence of coasts raises a number of related questions such as the possibility of conversion of rogue waves into sneaker waves with extremely high run-up. Also, the reaction of bottom sediments and the entire coastal zone to the rogue waves may be drastic.     

正压大气环流中的曲面周期波和孤波

大尺度正压大气环流的波动特征对理解气候变化具有重要的意义,而非线性浅水波方程组是描述大尺度正压大气环流的原始控制方程.本文对线性方程的复变函数解,通过二次适当的移植,求得浅水波方程组的发展方程的扰动位势的实变函数解,该实变函数解析解由基流项和波动项两部分组成.其中基流由波数、波速、β效应、变形半径和时间的任意函数共同决定;波动项与β效应有关.分析表明,在大尺度正压大气环流中扰动位势存在曲面的周期波和孤波的现象,周期波与孤波相互调制而呈现不稳定性;当多个周期孤波同时出现时,则彼此独立传播;扰动位势波动项中的时间任意函数对曲面周期孤波的波幅有调制作用,可控制波的产生、发展和消失.所得结果对研究大气波动现象和气候变化具有一定的理论参考价值.     

The run-up of nonlinearly deformed sea waves on the coast of a bay with a parabolic cross-section

The run-up of long waves on the coast of a bay with a parabolic cross-section, where the region of constant depth along the principal axis of the bay is connected with the linearly inclined segment, is considered. The study is carried out analytically in the framework of the nonlinear shallow-water theory under the approximation that the height of the initial wave is small compared to the basin depth, and the reflection from the inflection point of the bottom is negligibly small. Three types of incident waves, viz., a sinusoidal wave and solitary waves of positive and negative polarities, are considered in detail. It is shown that a sinusoidal wave undergoes nonlinear deformation at a segment of constant depth faster than solitary waves of positive and negative polarities. Solitary waves of negative polarity steepen somewhat faster than solitary waves of positive polarity. Waves of positive polarity steepen at wave front, while waves of negative polarity steepen at wave rear. These differences in steepness may become crucial at the wave run-up stage, since the wave run-up height on the coast of a bay with a parabolic cross-section is directly proportional to the steepness of a wave that arrives at the slope and can lead to the anomalous run-up of waves on the coast.     

Method of coupled mode for long-range bottom reverberation

The theory of coupled mode is used for modeling the long-range bottom reverberation in shallow water caused by bottom roughness. The distant bottom reverberation level and spatial coherence of impulsive source are both derived. The results agree with those from the classical reverberation model, and are compared with the experimental data. The influence of source bandwidth and the distance between sources and receivers on the intensity of bottom reverberation are particularly discussed. The method is shown to be available for both the monoand the bi-static cases.     

Parallel multilevel methods for implicit solution of shallow water equations with nonsmooth topography on the cubed-sphere

High resolution and scalable parallel algorithms for the shallow water equations on the sphere are very important for modeling the global climate. In this paper, we introduce and study some highly scalable multilevel domain decomposition methods for the fully implicit solution of the nonlinear shallow water equations discretized with a second-order well-balanced finite volume method on the cubed-sphere. With the fully implicit approach, the time step size is no longer limited by the stability condition, and with the multilevel preconditioners, good scalabilities are obtained on computers with a large number of processors. The investigation focuses on the use of semismooth inexact Newton method for the case with nonsmooth topography and the use of two- and three-level overlapping Schwarz methods with different order of discretizations for the preconditioning of the Jacobian systems. We test the proposed algorithm for several benchmark cases and show numerically that this approach converges well with smooth and nonsmooth bottom topography, and scales perfectly in terms of the strong scalability and reasonably well in terms of the weak scalability on machines with thousands and tens of thousands of processors.     

Sound attenuation on an ocean shelf at short ranges from a source in the presence of surface waves

The effect of surface roughness on the attenuation of low-frequency acoustic waves on a shallow ocean shelf is analyzed using numerical simulation. We focus here on transmission loss during propagation at short (less than 50 water layer depths) ranges from the sound source. The effect is considered both for a soft and hard bottom, when the sound velocity in the bottom is, respectively, lower or higher than the sound velocity in seawater. It is shown that to correctly predict losses at a short range in the presence of a rough upper boundary, it is necessary to take into account the interaction of both propagation and leaky modes. In the case of a hard bottom compared to a low-velocity one, the effect of surface roughness on propagation turned out to be the most pronounced.     

Finite element modeling of reverberation and transmission loss in shallow water waveguides with rough boundaries

A finite element model for the reverberation and propagation in a shallow water waveguide with a sandy bottom was calculated for five different environments at a center frequency of 250 Hz. The various environments included a rough water/sediment interface, a rough air/water interface, roughness at both interfaces and downward and upward refracting sound speed profiles with roughness at both interfaces. When compared to other models of reverberation such as ray theory, coupled modes, and parabolic equations, finite elements predicted higher levels of reverberation. At early times, this is due to the "fathometer" return, energy that is normally incident on the boundaries at zero range. At later times, the increased reverberation was due to high angle scattering paths between the two interfaces. Differences in reverberation levels among the environments indicated that scattered energy from the air/water interface is transmitted into the bottom at steep angles. This led to a large decrease in reverberation for a rough air/water interface relative to a rough water/sediment interface. Sound speed profile effects on reverberation were minimal at this frequency range. Calculations of the scintillation index of the different environments indicated that most of the reverberation was relatively Rayleigh-like with heavier tailed distributions at longer ranges.     

Surface-to-volume wave conversion in shallow water with a corrugated bottom

Acoustic transmission between points onshore or in very shallow water and points in deep water is strongly influenced by the shear rigidity of marine sediments, which control the parameters and the very existence of seismoacoustic surface waves. Previously, it was found that coupling between acoustic modes and the seismoacoustic surface waves is normally weak, although not negligible in the case of a gently sloping seafloor and soft sediments. In this paper, the previous work is extended by accounting for the small-scale roughness of the seafloor. The significant role of roughness in coupling between volume and surface waves is demonstrated. The combined effect of bottom topography, roughness, and wave attenuation in soft marine sediments on the sound propagation between points in shallow and deep water is discussed. Published in Russian in Akusticheskiĭ Zhurnal, 2008, Vol. 54, No. 3, pp. 400–407. The article was translated by the author.     

ADER schemes for the shallow water equations in channel with irregular bottom elevation

This paper deals with the construction of high-order ADER numerical schemes for solving the one-dimensional shallow water equations with variable bed elevation. The non-linear version of the schemes is based on ENO reconstructions. The governing equations are expressed in terms of total water height, instead of total water depth, and discharge. The ENO polynomial interpolation procedure is also applied to represent the variable bottom elevation. ADER schemes of up to fifth order of accuracy in space and time for the advection and source terms are implemented and systematically assessed, with particular attention to their convergence rates. Non-oscillatory results are obtained for discontinuous solutions both for the steady and unsteady cases. The resulting schemes can be applied to solve realistic problems characterized by non-uniform bottom geometries.     

From the paddle to the beach – A Boussinesq shallow water numerical wave tank based on Madsen and Sørensen’s equations

This article describes a one-dimensional numerical model of a shallow-water flume with an in-built piston paddle moving boundary wavemaker. The model is based on a set of enhanced Boussinesq equations and the nonlinear shallow water equations. Wave breaking is described approximately, by locally switching to the nonlinear shallow water equations when a critical wave steepness is reached. The moving shoreline is calculated as part of the solution. The piston paddle wavemaker operates on a movable grid, which is Lagrangian on the paddle face and Eulerian away from the paddle. The governing equations are, however, evolved on a fixed mapped grid, and the newly calculated solution is transformed back onto the moving grid via a domain mapping technique. Validation test results are compared against analytical solutions, confirming correct discretisation of the governing equations, wave generation via the numerical paddle, and movement of the wet/dry front. Simulations are presented that reproduce laboratory experiments of wave runup on a plane beach and wave overtopping of a laboratory seawall, involving solitary waves and compact wave groups. In practice, the numerical model is suitable for simulating the propagation of weakly dispersive waves and can additionally model any associated inundation, overtopping or inland flooding within the same simulation.     

On the fully-nonlinear shallow-water generalized Serre equations

A fully-nonlinear weakly dispersive system for the shallow water wave regime is presented. In the simplest case the model was first derived by Serre in 1953 and rederived various times since then. Two additions to this system are considered: the effect of surface tension, and that of using a different reference fluid level to describe the velocity field. It is shown how the system can be further expanded by consistent exchanges of spatial and time derivatives. Properties of the solitary waves of the resulting system as well as a symmetric splitting of the equations based on the Riemann invariants of the hyperbolic shallow water system are presented. The latter leads to a fully-nonlinear one-way model and, upon further approximations, existing weakly nonlinear models. Our study also helps clarify the differences or similarities between existing models.     

On a well-balanced high-order finite volume scheme for shallow water equations with topography and dry areas

We present a finite volume scheme for solving shallow water equations with source term due to the bottom topography. The scheme has the following properties: it is high-order accurate in smooth wet regions, it correctly solves situations where dry areas are present, and it is well-balanced. The scheme is developed within a general nonconservative framework, and it is based on hyperbolic reconstructions of states. The treatment of wet/dry fronts is carried out by solving specific nonlinear Riemann problems at the corresponding intercells.     

Experiments and analysis on chaotic vibrations of a shallow cylindrical shell-panel

Detailed experimental results and analytical results are presented on chaotic vibrations of a shallow cylindrical shell-panel subjected to gravity and periodic excitation. The shallow shell-panel with square boundary is simply supported for deflection. In-plane displacement at the boundary is elastically constrained by in-plain springs. In the experiment, the cylindrical shallow shell-panel with thickness 0.24 mm, square form of length 140 mm and mean radius 5150 mm is used for the test specimen. All edges around the shell boundary are simply supported by adhesive flexible films. First, to find fundamental properties of the shell-panel, linear natural frequencies and characteristics of restoring force of the shell-panel are measured. These results are compared with the relevant analytical results. Then, geometrical parameters of the shell-panel are identified. Exciting the shell-panel with lateral periodic acceleration, nonlinear frequency responses of the shell-panel are obtained by sweeping the frequency of periodic acceleration. In typical ranges of the exciting frequency, predominant chaotic responses are generated. Time histories of the responses are recorded for inspection of the chaos. In the analysis, the Donnell equation with lateral inertia force is introduced. Assuming mode functions, the governing equation is reduced to a set of nonlinear ordinary differential equations by the Galerkin procedure. Periodic responses are calculated by the harmonic balance method. Chaotic responses are integrated numerically by the Runge-Kutta-Gill method. The chaotic responses, which are obtained by the experiment and the analysis, are inspected with the Fourier spectra, the Poincaré projections, the maximum Lyapunov exponents and the Lyapunov dimension. It is found that the dominant chaotic responses of the shell-panel are generated from the responses of the sub-harmonic resonance of order and of the ultra-sub-harmonic resonance of order. By the convergence of the maximum Lyapunov exponent to the embedding dimension, the number of predominant vibration modes which contribute to the chaos is found to be three or four. Fairly good agreements are obtained between the experimental results and the analytical results.