Quasi-periodic waves and quasi-solitary waves in stratified fluid of slowly varying depth

The nonlinear waves in a stratified fluid of slowly varying depth are investigated in this paper. The model considered here consists of a two-layer incompressible constantdensity inviscid fluid confined by a slightly uneven bottom and a horizontal rigid wall. The Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation with varying coefficients is derived with the aid of the reductive perturbation method. By using the method of multiple scales, the approximate solutions of this equation are obtained. It is found that the unevenness of bottom may lead to the generation of so-called quasi-periodic waves and quasisolitary waves, whose periods, propagation velocities and wave profiles vary slowly. The relations of the period of quasiperiodic waves and of the amplitude, propagation velocity of quasi-solitary waves varying with the depth of fluid are also presented. The models with two horizontal rigid walls or single-layer fluid can be regarded as particular cases of those in this paper.Project Supported by National Natural Science Foundation of China.     

三维缓变流场上波浪折射—绕射的缓坡方程

运用Luke变分原理,建立了波浪在三维缓变流场中和缓变海底上折射-绕射的一般缓坡方程,据此给出了在几何-光学逼近（△↓S)^2=k^2有效时,波浪、环境流和海底坡度必须满足的若干条件,对一般缓坡方程进行了分类,在一种特定流场结构的假定下,得到了方程的行波解。     

Extended Mild-Slope Equation

ＩｎｔｒｏｄｕｃｔｉｏｎＡｃｃｕｒａｔｅｍｏｄｅｌｌｉｎｇｏｆｓｕｒｆａｃｅｗａｖｅｄｙｎａｍｉｃｓｉｎｃｏａｓｔａｌｒｅｇｉｏｎｓｈａｓｂｅｅｎｔｈｅｇｏａｌｏｆｍｕｃｈｒｅｃｅｎｔｒｅｓｅａｒｃｈ ,ｗｈｉｃｈｈａｓｂｅｅｎｓｕｍｍａｒｉｚｅｄｉｎｓｕｒｖｅｙｓｂｙＤｉｎｇｅｍａｎｓ( 1 997) [1]ａｎｄＫｉｒｂｙ( 1 997) [2 ].Ｔｈｅｒｉｃｈｎｅｓｓｏｆｃｏａｓｔａｌｗａｖｅｄｙｎａｍｉｃｓａｒｉｓｅｓｆｒｏｍｔｈｅｓｔｒｏｎｇａｍｂｉｅｎｔｃｕｒｒｅｎｔｓａｎｄｔｈｅｗｉｄｅｖａｒｉａｔｉｏｎｓ…     

缓坡方程的推广

为了描述水波和强烈的环境流在非平整海底上的相互作用,运用无旋运动的Lagrangian变分原理,对经典的Berkhoff缓坡方程进行了改进。假定水流沿水深方向基本上保持均匀性,这正如潮流运动的特征。海底地形由慢变、快变两个分量叠加构成;慢变分量满足缓坡逼近假定,快变分量的波长与表面波波长为同一量级,但其振幅小于表面波的振幅。在以上假定条件下,得到了适用于非平整海底的推广型浅水方程和应用性更加广泛的波－流－非平整海底相互作用的一般缓坡方程,并且从理论上证明一般缓坡方程包含了以下3种著名的缓坡型方程：经典的Berkhoff缓坡方程;波－流相互作用的Kirby缓坡方程、Dingemans关于沙纹海底的缓坡方程。最后,通过与Bragg反射实验数据的比较,表明该模型可以准确地反映快变海底的典型地貌特征。     

Fully dispersive dynamic models for surface water waves above varying bottom, Part 2: Hybrid spatial-spectral implementations

In Part 1 (van Groesen and Andonowati [1]), we derived models for the propagation of coastal waves from deep parts in the ocean to shallow parts near the coast. In this paper, we will describe hybrid spatial-spectral implementations of the models that retain the basic variational formulation of irrotational surface waves that underlays the derivation of the continuous models. It will be shown that the numerical codes are robust and efficient from results of simulations of two test cases of waves above a 1:20 sloping bottom from 30 m to 15 m depth: one simulation of a bichromatic wave train, and one of irregular waves of JONSWAP type. Measurements of scaled experiments at MARIN hydrodynamic laboratory and simulations with two other numerical codes will be used to test the performance. At the end of the full time trace of 3.5 h details of the irregular waves that travelled over more than 5000 m are clearly resolved with a correlation of more than 90%, in calculation times of less than 5% of the physical time. Also freak-like waves that appear in the irregular wave are shown to be modelled to a high degree of accuracy.     

Uni-directional waves over slowly varying bottom. Part I: Derivation of a KdV-type of equation

The exact equations for surface waves over an uneven bottom can be formulated as a Hamiltonian system, with the total energy of the fluid as Hamiltonian. If the bottom variations are over a length scale L that is longer than the characteristic wavelength ℓ, approximating the kinetic energy for the case of “rather long and rather low” waves gives Boussinesq type of equations. If in the case of an even bottom one restricts further to uni-directional waves, the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) is obtained. For slowly varying bottom this uni-directionalization will be studied in detail in this part I, in a very direct way which is simpler than other derivations found in the literature. The surface elevation is shown to be described by a forced KdV-type of equation. The modification of the obtained KdV-equation shares the property of the standard KdV-equation that it has a Hamiltonian structure, but now the structure map depends explicitly on the spatial variable through the bottom topography. The forcing is derived explicitly, and the order of the forcing, compared to the first order contributions of dispersion and nonlinearity in KdV, is shown to depend on the ratio between ℓ and L; for very mild bottom variations, the forcing is negligible. For localized topography the effect of this forcing is investigated. In part II the distortion of solitary waves will be studied.     

An adaptive artificial viscosity for the displacement shallow water wave equation

The numerical oscillation problem is a difficulty for the simulation of rapidly varying shallow water surfaces which are often caused by the unsmooth uneven bottom,the moving wet-dry interface, and so on. In this paper, an adaptive artificial viscosity(AAV) is proposed and combined with the displacement shallow water wave equation(DSWWE) to establish an effective model which can accurately predict the evolution of multiple shocks effected by the uneven bottom and the wet-dry interface. The effec...     

The solitary waves in stratified shear flow

In this paper, the basic equation of internal long waves in stratified shear flow is derived under Boussinesq assumption, the first order approximation solution is given for solitary waves with the effects of slowly varying topograph at the sea bottom, weak stratification and basic shear flow. The Project Supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China.     

The modulational theory of nonlinear gravity-wave in fluid with varying depth and nonuniform current

By means of WKB expansions, new fourth order evolution equations are derived for two-dimensional Stokes waves over the bottom with arbitrary depth. The effects of slowly varying depthh=h(ε ²x) and currentU=U(ε ²x,ε²t,ε⁴z) on the evolution of a packet of Stokes waves are considered as well. In addition, numerical simulation is performed for the evolution of single envelope by finite-difference method. Project supported by National Natural Science Foundation of China and Centre of Advanced Academic Research of Zhongshan University.     

Propagation of weakly nonlinear disturbances of the interface between two layers of fluid

The dynamics of internal waves of small but finite amplitude in a two-layer fluid system bounded by rigid horizontal surfaces at bottom and top is investigated theoretically. For linear disturbances of the fluid interface the authors propose a polynomial approximation of the dispersion relation which has the same asymptotics as the exact formula in the limiting situations of very long and short waves. In the case of three-dimensional, weakly nonlinear disturbances of slowly varying shape (in the coordinate system moving with the wave) an equation like the wave equation is derived. This equation has Stokes solutions coinciding with the well-known results for infinitely deep layers. For fairly long disturbances solitary solutions of the model wave equation which fit the experimental data are determined. Novosibirsk. Translated from Izvestiya Rossiiskoi Akademii Nauk, Mekhanika Zhidkosti i Gaza, No.1, pp. 125–131, January–February, 1994.     

A coupled-mode model for water wave scattering by vertically sheared currents in variable bathymetry regions

A coupled-mode model is developed for treating the wave–current–seabed interaction problem, with application to wave scattering by non-homogeneous, sheared current with linear vertical velocity profile, over general bottom topography. The wave potential is represented by a series of local vertical modes containing the propagating and evanescent modes, plus additional terms accounting for the satisfaction of the boundary conditions. Using the above representation, in conjunction with a variational principle, a coupled system of differential equations on the horizontal plane is derived, with respect to the unknown modal amplitudes. In the case of small-amplitude waves, a linearized version of the above coupled-mode system is obtained, extending previous analysis by Belibassakis et al. (2011) to the propagation of water waves over variable bathymetry regions in the presence of vertically sheared currents. Keeping only the propagating mode in the vertical expansion of the wave potential, the present system reduces to a one-equation model, that is shown to extend known mild-slope mild vertical shear equation concerning wave–current interaction over slowly varying topography. After additional simplifications, the latter model is shown to be compatible with the extended mild-slope mild-shear equation by Touboul et al. (2016). Results are presented for various representative test cases demonstrating the usefulness of the present coupled mode system and the importance of various terms in the modal expansion, and compared against experimental data collected in wave flume validating the present method. The analytical structure of the present system facilitates extensions to model non-linear effects and applications concerning wave scattering by inhomogeneous currents in coastal regions with general 3D bottom topography.     

A generalized modified Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation for interfacial wave propagation near the critical depth level

Propagation of interfacial waves near the critical depth level in a two-layer fluid system is investigated. We first present a generalized modified Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (gmKP) equation for weakly nonlinear and dispersive interfacial waves propagating predominantly in the longitudinal direction of a slowly rotating channel with gradually varying topography and sidewalls. For certain type of non-rotating channels, we find two families of periodic-wave solutions, which include solitarywave solutions and a shock-like solution as limiting cases, to the variable-coefficient gmKP equation. We also show that in this situation the gmKP equation has only unidirectional N-soliton solutions and does not allow soliton resonance to occur. In a rotating uniform channel, our small-time asymptotic analysis and numerical study of the gmKP equation show that, depending on the relative importance of the cubic nonlinearity to quadratic nonlinearity, the wavefront of a Kelvin solitary wave may curve either forward or backward, trailed by a small train of Poincaré waves. When these two nonlinearities almost balance each other, the wavefront becomes almost straight-crested across the channel, and the trailing Poincaré waves diminish.     

Boundary element method for long-time water wave propagation over rapidly varying bottom topography

We study numerically the linear water wave equations for shallow channels with rapidly varying bottom topography. We do not use the shallow water approximation because it is not valid when the bottom is rapidly varying. We use the boundary element method because it allows accurate tracking of the surface waves for long times. We present the results of a range of numerical validation experiments and a comparison between propagation over a periodic and a random rough bottom topography.     

Effect of periodic bottom roughness on gravitational waves in a liquid

The effect of a rigid bottom of periodic form on small periodic oscillations of the free surface of a liquid is considered with the assumption of low amplitude roughness. The methodologically most significant study in this direction, [1], will be utilized. In [1] the steady-state problem for flow over an arbitrarily rough bottom was studied. Other studies have recently appeared on small free oscillations above a rough bottom. Essentially these have considered the effect of underwater obstacles and cavities on surface waves in the shallow-water approximation (for example, [2], [3]). Liquid oscillations in a layer of arbitrary depth slowly varying with length were considered in [4]. However, these results cannot be applied to the study of resonant interaction of gravitational waves with a periodically curved bottom.Translated from Zhurnal Prikladnoi Mekhaniki i Tekhnicheskoi Fiziki, No. 4, pp. 43–48, July–August, 1984.     

变深度浅水域中非定常船波

以Green—Naghdi(G—N)方程为基础，采用波动方程／有限元法计算船舶经过变深度浅水域时非定常波浪特性．把运动船舶对水面的扰动作为移动压强直接加在Green-Naghdi方程里，以描述运动船体和水面的相互作用．以Series60 CB＝0．6船为算例，给出自由面坡高，波浪阻力在船舶经过一个水下凸包时变化规律，并与浅水方程的结果进行了比较．计算结果表明，当船舶经过凸包时，波浪阻力先增加，后减少，并逐渐趋于正常．同时发现，当船速小于临界速度时(Fr＝√gh＜1．0)，G—N方程给出的船后尾波比浅水方程的结果明显，波浪阻力也比浅水方程的结果有所提高，频率散射必须考虑．当船速大于临界速度时(Fr＝√gh＞1．0)，G—N方程的计算结果与浅水方程差别不大，频率散射的影响可以忽略．     

Uniform far field asymptotics of internal gravity waves from a source moving in a stratified fluid layer with smoothly varying bottom

The far field asymptotics of internal waves is constructed for the case when a point source of mass moves in a layer of arbitrarily stratified fluid with slowly varying bottom. The solutions obtained describe the far field both near the wave fronts of each individual mode and away from the wave fronts and are expansions in Airy or Fresnel waves with the argument determined from the solution of the corresponding eikonal equation. The amplitude of the wave field is determined from the energy conservation law along the ray tube. For model distributions of the bottom shape and the stratification describing the typical pattern of the ocean shelf eract analytic expressions are obtained for the rays, and the properties of the phase structure of the wave field are analyzed. Moscow. Translated from Izvestiya Rossiiskoi Akademii Nauk, Mekhanika Zhidkosti i Gaza, No. 3, pp. 111–120, May–June, 1998. This work was financially supported by the Russian Foundation for Basic Research (project No. 96-01-01120).     

Liquid sloshing in a horizontally forced vessel with bottom topography

This paper presents a numerical study of the free-surface evolution for inviscid, incompressible, irrotational, horizontally forced sloshing in a two-dimensional rectangular vessel with an inhomogeneous bottom topography. The numerical scheme uses a time-dependent conformal mapping to map the physical fluid domain to a rectangle in the computational domain with a time-dependent aspect ratio Q(t), known as the conformal modulus. The advantage of this approach over conventional potential flow solvers is the solution automatically satisfies Laplace's equation for all time, hence only the integration of the two free-surface boundary conditions is required. This makes the scheme computationally fast, and as grid points are required only along the free-surface, high resolution simulations can be performed which allows for simulations for mean fluid depths close to the shallow water water regime. The scheme is robust and can simulate both resonate and non-resonate cases, where in the former, the large amplitude waves are well predicted.Results of nonlinear simulations are presented in the case of non-breaking waves for both an asymmetrical ‘step’ and a symmetric ‘hump’ bottom topography. The natural free-sloshing mode frequencies are compared with the small topography asymptotic results of Faltinsen and Timokha (2009) (Sloshing, Cambridge University Press (Cambridge)), and are found to be lower than this asymptotic prediction for moderate and large topography magnitudes. For forced periodic oscillations it is shown that the hump profile is the most effective topography for minimizing the nonlinear response of the fluid, and hence this topography would reduce the stresses on the vessel walls generated by the fluid. Results also show that varying the width of the step or hump has a less significant effect than varying its magnitude.     

A parabolic approximation for elastic waves

A parabolic approximation is developed for elastic waves, which depends on the variations in elastic properties being small and taking place slowly within a wavelength. The equations describe a wave which is, in a zeroth approximation, plane and which is diffracted by the heterogeneity by small angles only.The parabolic equation has well-known advantages over the original wave equations for numerical integration. In addition, the quantities to be calculated vary slowly over a wave length and numerical step sizes can be relatively large. The results are comparable with those of ray theory but, since they include diffraction effects, they are valid to a much greater range.     

非均匀水流水域波浪的传播变形

将两个不同的、考虑波流相互作用和能量耗散项的、依赖时间变化的双曲型缓坡方程分别化 为一组等价的控制方程组,具体分析了底摩阻项对相对频率和波数矢的影响,从而选择了合 适的数学模型. 将所选择的缓坡方程化为依赖时间变化的抛物型方程,并用ADI法进 行数值求解,建立了缓变水深水域非均匀水流中波浪传播的数值模拟模型. 通过和波流共线 的解析解的比较,说明数值解和解析解相一致. 结合Arthur(1950)水流这一经典算例,定 量地讨论了考虑联合折射-绕射作用后的波数和仅考虑折射作用的波数的差别及其对波高分 布的影响. 在基本同样的条件下, 本文的数值解与他人的计算结果一致.     

EFFECTS OF VARYING BOTTOM ON NONLINEAR SURFACE WAVES

The resonant flow of an incompressible, inviscid fluid with surface tension on varying bottoms was researched. The effects of different bottoms on the nonlinear surface waves were analyzed. The waterfall plots of the wave were drawn with Matlab according to the numerical simulation of the fKdV equation with the pseudo-spectral method. Prom the waterfall plots, the results are obtained as follows: for the convex bottom, the waves system can be viewed as a combination of the effects of forward-step forcing and backward step forcing, and these two wave systems respectively radiate upstream and downstream without mutual interaction. Nevertheless, the result for the concave bottom is contrary to the convex one. For some combined bottoms, the wave systems can be considered as the combination of positive forcing and negative forcing.