Instability of capillary-gravity waves in water of arbitrary uniform depth

The Benjamin-Feir instability of periodic capillary-gravity waves on a liquid layer of arbitrary uniform depth is investigated. When surface tension is present, there is always instability for some wavenumber and liquid depth and bounds on the sideband frequencies for unbounded amplification are derived. The results are compared with the slow modulation theory using an averaged Lagrangian.     

A novel method of solving the exact equations for capillary-gravity waves

A new method is presented for the computation of two-dimensional periodicprogressive surface waves propagating under the combined influence of gravity and surfacetension.The nonlinear surface is expressed by Fourier series with finite number of terms,after the computational domain is transformed into a unit circle.The dynamic boundaryequation is used in its exact nonlinear form and the coefficients of Fourier series are foundby the Nweton-Raphson method successively.This is a neat method,Yielding highprescision with little computational effort.     

A spectral boundary integral method for inviscid water waves in a finite domain

In this paper, we show how the spectral formulation of Baker, Meiron and Orszag can be used to solve for waves on water of infinite depth confined between two flat, vertical walls, and also how it can be modified to take into account water of finite depth with a spatially varying bottom. In each case, we use Chebyshev polynomials as the basis of our representation of the solution and filtering to remove spurious high‐frequency modes. We show that spectral accuracy can be achieved until wave breaking, plunging or wall impingment occurs in two model problems. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Efficient computation of steady solitary gravity waves

An efficient numerical method to compute solitary wave solutions to the free surface Euler equations is reported. It is based on the conformal mapping technique combined with an efficient Fourier pseudo-spectral method. The resulting nonlinear equation is solved via the Petviashvili iterative scheme. The computational results are compared to some existing approaches, such as Tanaka’s method and Fenton’s high-order asymptotic expansion. Several important integral quantities are computed for a large range of amplitudes. The integral representation of the velocity and acceleration fields in the bulk of the fluid is also provided.     

An efficient numerical tank for non-linear water waves,based on the multi-subdomain approach with BEM

An efficient 2D non-linear numerical wave tank called LONGTANK has been developed based on a multi-subdomain (MSD) approach combined with the conventional boundary element method (BEM). The multi-subdomain approach aims at optimized matrix diagonalization, thus minimizing the computing time and reserved storage. The CPU per time step in LONGTANK simulation is found to increase only linearly with the number of surface nodes, which makes LONGTANK highly efficient especially when simulating long-time wave evolutions in space. Appropriate treatment of special points on the boundary ensures high resolution in LONGTANK simulation beyond initial deformation and breaking, which allows detailed study of breaking criterion, breaker morphology, breaking dissipation, vorticity generation, etc. Detailed numerical implementation has been given with demonstration of LONGTANK simulations.     

爆炸冲击波反射流场的理论计算方法

爆炸冲击波遇到固壁,依次发生正规和非正规反射。本文中基于镜像方法,将爆炸冲击波在固壁反射等效为真实和虚拟爆炸流场的相互作用,建立了波后流场的理论计算方法。首先,假定反射波是以虚拟爆源为中心的圆弧,马赫杆是以爆心在固壁投影点为中心的圆弧。然后,根据爆炸自由场传播规律,利用基于几何近似的方法,建立流场中冲击波结构随时间演化的计算方法,确定任意时刻波后流场区域。最后,利用新发展的叠加模型LAMBR (LAMB revisied),将真实和虚拟爆炸流场进行叠加,给出波后流场中的压力、密度和速度等物理量。通过与数值模拟结果和已有数据进行对比,发现该方法得到的流场物理量分布、峰值等能够反映流场发展的主要规律,从而验证了该理论方法的合理性。而且,该理论方法所需的时间相较于数值模拟大大缩短。     

On steady periodic waves on the surface of a fluid of finite depth

A solution of Nekrasov’s integral equation is obtained, and the range of its existence in the theory of steady nonlinear waves on the surface of a finite-depth fluid is determined. Relations are derived for calculating the wave profile and propagation velocity as functions of the ratio of the liquid depth to the wavelength. A comparison is made of the velocities obtained using the linear and nonlinear theories of wave propagation.     

时域Rankine源法求解有限水深船舶在规则波中的水底压力变化

应用势流理论中的Rankine源面元法和时域步进法,求解了有限水深船舶在规则波中运动的水底压力变化。将速度势分解成基本势、局部势和记忆势,以叠模解作为基本势对自由表面条件和物面条件进行了线性化,通过在水底布置面元来满足水底条件。利用研制的水底压力-水面波浪测量系统,测量了不同入射波船模表面波形与水底压力的时历曲线,理论计算与实验结果符合较好,验证了自编程序的正确性。通过对比二者的等高线图发现,水底压力与表面波形的峰谷有较好的一致性,并且压力较波形更为平滑。     

The two-dimensional problem of steady waves on water of finite depth: regimes without waves of small amplitude

The two-dimensional problem of steady waves on water of finite depth is considered without assumptions about periodicity and symmetry of waves. A new form of Bernoulli's equation is derived, and it involves a new bifurcation parameter which is the product of the Froude number μ and the rate of flow ω. The main result obtained from this equation is the absence of waves, having sufficiently small amplitude, provided $|\mu \omega |>1$. To cite this article: V. Kozlov, N. Kuznetsov, C. R. Mecanique 333 (2005).     

A meshless numerical wave tank for simulation of nonlinear irregular waves in shallow water

Time domain simulation of the interaction between offshore structures and irregular waves in shallow water becomes a focus due to significant increase of liquefied natural gas (LNG) terminals. To obtain the time series of irregular waves in shallow water, a numerical wave tank is developed by using the meshless method for simulation of 2D nonlinear irregular waves propagating from deep water to shallow water. Using the fundamental solution of Laplace equation as the radial basis function (RBF) and locating the source points outside the computational domain, the problem of water wave propagation is solved by collocation of boundary points. In order to improve the computation stability, both the incident wave elevation and velocity potential are applied to the wave generation. A sponge damping layer combined with the Sommerfeld radiation condition is used on the radiation boundary. The present model is applied to simulate the propagation of regular and irregular waves. The numerical results are validated by analytical solutions and experimental data and good agreements are observed. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Boundary element calculation of shallow water waves

A boundary element method is proposed for studying periodic shallow water problems. The numerical model is based on the shallow water equation. The key feature of this method is that the boundary integral equations are derived using the weighted residual method and the fundamental solutions for shallow water wave problems are obtained by solving the simultaneous singular equations. The accuracy of this method is studied for the wave reflection problem in a rectangular tank. As a result of this test, it has been shown that the number of element divisions and the distribution of nodes are significant to the accuracy. For numerical examples of external problems, the wave diffraction problems due to single cylindrical, double cylindrical and plate obstructions are analysed and compared with the exact and other numerical solutions. Relatively accurate solutions are obtained.     

A parametric finite‐difference method for shallow sea waves

This paper presents a parametric finite‐difference scheme concerning the numerical solution of the one‐dimensional Boussinesq‐type set of equations, as they were introduced by Peregrine (J. Fluid Mech. 1967; 27 (4)) in the case of waves relatively long with small amplitudes in water of varying depth. The proposed method, which can be considered as a generalization of the Crank‐Nickolson method, aims to investigate alternative approaches in order to improve the accuracy of analogous methods known from bibliography. The resulting linear finite‐difference scheme, which is analysed for stability using the Fourier method, has been applied successfully to a problem used by Beji and Battjes (Coastal Eng. 1994; 23 : 1–16), giving numerical results which are in good agreement with the corresponding results given by MIKE 21 BW (User Guide. In: MIKE 21, Wave Modelling, User Guide. 2002; 271–392) developed by DHI Software. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A fully non‐linear model for three‐dimensional overturning waves over an arbitrary bottom

An accurate three‐dimensional numerical model, applicable to strongly non‐linear waves, is proposed. The model solves fully non‐linear potential flow equations with a free surface using a higher‐order three‐dimensional boundary element method (BEM) and a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian time updating, based on second‐order explicit Taylor series expansions with adaptive time steps. The model is applicable to non‐linear wave transformations from deep to shallow water over complex bottom topography up to overturning and breaking. Arbitrary waves can be generated in the model, and reflective or absorbing boundary conditions specified on lateral boundaries. In the BEM, boundary geometry and field variables are represented by 16‐node cubic ‘sliding’ quadrilateral elements, providing local inter‐element continuity of the first and second derivatives. Accurate and efficient numerical integrations are developed for these elements. Discretized boundary conditions at intersections (corner/edges) between the free surface or the bottom and lateral boundaries are well‐posed in all cases of mixed boundary conditions. Higher‐order tangential derivatives, required for the time updating, are calculated in a local curvilinear co‐ordinate system, using 25‐node ‘sliding’ fourth‐order quadrilateral elements. Very high accuracy is achieved in the model for mass and energy conservation. No smoothing of the solution is required, but regridding to a higher resolution can be specified at any time over selected areas of the free surface. Applications are presented for the propagation of numerically exact solitary waves. Model properties of accuracy and convergence with a refined spatio‐temporal discretization are assessed by propagating such a wave over constant depth. The shoaling of solitary waves up to overturning is then calculated over a 1:15 plane slope, and results show good agreement with a two‐dimensional solution proposed earlier. Finally, three‐dimensional overturning waves are generated over a 1:15 sloping bottom having a ridge in the middle, thus focusing wave energy. The node regridding method is used to refine the discretization around the overturning wave. Convergence of the solution with grid size is also verified for this case. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Study on calculation methods for acoustic radiation of axisymmetric structures in finite water depth

In this paper, a kind of FEM–WSM (Finite Element Method–Wave​ Superposition Method) is used to calculate the acoustic radiation of axisymmetric structures in finite water depth. FEM is used to solve the dry modes of axisymmetric structures, and WSM is applied along with the dry mode method to consider fluid–structure interaction effects and calculate the acoustic radiated field. This method combines the advantages of FEM and WSM. On one hand, it is suitable for complex or large axisymmetric structures on the one hand. On the other hand, it has higher computational efficiency than the FEM, and the computational domain size for the water is not limited. As long as the Green’s function is tailored for the boundary condition, the acoustic radiated field of axisymmetric structures in more complex ocean acoustic environments can be calculated by using this method. Besides, a least-square method is used to reduce the distortion resulting from computational errors of the modal estimates. The influence of the number of source and field points and the finite element mesh density on the calculation accuracy are discussed, eliciting some disciplinary conclusions. Using a spherical shell and a capsule shell as models, the results from the present approach, a semi-analytical method, and the crude FEM are compared to verify the correctness and efficiency. Based on numerical examples, the influence of the sea surface and the seafloor on the acoustic radiated field of structures in finite water depth is also analyzed.     

Meshless numerical simulation for fully nonlinear water waves

A meshless numerical model for nonlinear free surface water wave is presented in this paper. An approach of handling the moving free surface boundary is proposed. Using the fundamental solution of the Laplace equation as the radial basis functions and locating the source points outside the computational domain, the problem is solved by collocation of only a few boundary points. Present model is first applied to simulate the generation of periodic finite‐amplitude waves with high wave‐steepness and then is employed to simulate the modulation of monochromatic waves passing over a submerged obstacle. Good agreements are observed as compared with experimental data and other numerical models. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A uniform high-order method for a singular perturbation problem in conservative form

A uniform high order method is presented for the numerical solution of a singular perturbation problem in conservative form. We firest replace the original second-order problem (1.1) by two equivalent first-order problems (1.4), i.e., the solution of (1.1) is a linear combination of the solutions of (1.4). Then we derive a uniformly O(h~m+1)accurate scheme for the first-order problems (1.4), where m is an arbitrary nonnegative integer, so we can get a uniformly O(h~m+1) accurate solution of the original problem (1.1) by relation (1.3). Some illustrative numerical results are also given.     

Surface waves propagation in shallow water: A finite element model

A two-dimensional (in-plane) numerical model for surface waves propagation based on the non-linear dispersive wave approach described by Boussinesq-type equations, which provide an attractive theory for predicting the depth-averaged velocity field resulting from that wave-type propagation in shallow water, is presented. The numerical solution of the corresponding partial differential equations by finite-difference methods has been the subject of several scientific works. In the present work we propose a new approach to the problem: the spatial discretization of the system composed by the Boussinesq equations is made by a finite element method, making use of the weighted residual technique for the solution approach within each element. The model is validated by comparing numerical results with theoretical solutions and with results obtained experimentally.     

Fourier analysis of a class of upwind schemes in shallow water systems for gravity and Rossby waves

A Fourier analysis has been performed for a class of upwind finite volume schemes, including the study of phase speed, group velocity, damping and dispersion. In the first part, pure gravity waves are investigated. As expected, most upwind schemes lead to a significant damping, but they exhibit a better phase behavior than most centered schemes. In the second part, the Coriolis parameter is considered and the Rossby modes are studied. In this case, all selected upwind schemes lead to a severe damping. The numerical results are also compared with those obtained by using a slope limiter approach. It is concluded that most upwind schemes with or without slope limiters present poor results for an accurate calculation of the Rossby modes. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.