等波高双孤立波直墙爬高的数值模拟

基于RANS方程、VOF方法以及修正的Goring造波方法建立了模拟活塞式推波板运动的二维数值波浪水槽,实现了双孤立波直墙爬高的数值模拟．利用动边界技术模拟造波机推波板的运动,有效地实现了不同波峰间距双孤立波的造波方法．在验证单孤立波直墙爬高的基础上,模拟了不同相对波高、相对波峰间距的等波高双孤立波的直墙爬高过程,给出了波面、速度场及波动能量的变化规律．数值模拟结果表明：对于等波高的双孤立波,当入射波波高较大及两个波峰间距相对较小时,跟随在后孤立波的爬高放大系数小于先导孤立波的爬高放大系数;双孤立波在直墙爬高过程中,波动场的势能时间过程线呈现三峰形态,其中居中的最大势能峰值出现在第二个孤立波与经直墙反射后反向传播的第一个孤立波完全对撞的时刻．     

非周期波浪与直墙作用的非线性数值研究

基于时域高阶边界元方法,建立了完全非线性二维数值波浪水槽,对非周期波浪与直墙的相互作用问题进行了模拟和研究.自由表面满足完全非线性自由水面运动学和动力学边界条件,采用混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法追踪瞬时自由面流体质点,采用四阶Runge-Kutta法对下一时间步的波面和自由面速度势进行更新.采用加速度式法求解直墙表面速度势的时间导数,对瞬时物体湿表面上的水动力压强积分,得到作用在物体上的瞬时波浪力.首先,将全非线性与Serre-Green-Naghdi(SGN)模型的结果进行了对比分析,发现对于大幅值双入射波问题,仅满足弱色散关系的SGN模型大大低估了最大波浪爬高;其次,研究了双入射波与直墙的非线性作用问题,发现线性预报对波浪最大爬高有较大低估,而波浪的非线性成分不只导致了自由面爬高的异常增大,也引起了局部自由面的高频振荡,该物理过程中,直墙所受的波浪载荷,也展示出了与波浪爬高相似的非线性特性;最后,对波浪爬升和波浪力的时间历程进行了频谱分析,发现入射主频波的部分能量传递给了更高频的波浪成分,反映出该问题具有典型的非线性特性.     

Diffraction of a solitary wave by a thin wedge part 2. Effects of viscous boundary layers

Based on the study on the Mach reflection of a solitary wave in [3], we continue to investigate effects of the boundary layers on the bottom and the vertical side wall. By using matched asymptotic methods, the two-dimensional KdV equation is modified to account for effects of viscosity. Numerical can be neglected. The results including the side wall's effects agree satisfactorily with those of Melville's experiments. Finally, we establish the simplified concept of the side wall effect and conclude that it represents the physical reason for the discrepancy between the experiments and the previous calculations based on the inviscid fluid flow theory.     

On reflection of a planar solitary wave at a vertical wall

The reflection of a planar solitary wave at a vertical wall is investigated by solving the Boussinesq equations analytically as well as numerically. The analytical solution is obtained by means of the inner-outer expansions technique, while the numerical solution is based on a finite-difference scheme. The maximum wave amplitude at the wall and the time at which this maximum amplitude is reached are presented. It is also found that the incident wave does not reflect immediately at the wall as predicted by the linear wave theory. Rather, the wave suffers a time delay, called the phase lag, during the reflection process. This phase lag is found to be inversely proportional to the square root of the initial wave amplitude. As the reflected wave eventually propagates away from the wall, it has a phase shift in comparison with that obtained by the linear wave theory. The analytical results obtained in this paper are in good agreement with the numerical results, and they also agree fairly well with the existing experimental data.     

潜堤对波浪在直立式防浪墙上爬高的影响

对直立式防浪墙前潜堤的空间布置对波浪在直墙上爬高的影响进行了研究.建立简化模型,即直立式防浪墙前海床设计为平底,潜堤设计为直立薄板. 改变潜堤高度及其与防浪墙之间距,研究不同的潜堤布置对波浪在直墙上爬高的影响. 针对线性波浪场,利用数值波浪水槽模拟了潜堤作用下直墙上波浪的爬高现象. 同时建立了理论模型,系统地分析了潜堤布置形式对直墙上波浪爬高的影响. 研究结果表明潜堤相对于水深的高度越大,对波浪在直墙上爬高的影响越大,而在一定的相对高度条件下,潜堤与直立墙之间距对波浪爬高的影响呈现出一定的规律性.      

Numerical simulation of solitary waves overtopping on a sloping sea dike using a particle method

Sea dikes, as a commonly used type of coastal protection structures, are often attacked or damaged by violent waves overtopping under tsunamis and storm surges. In this study, the behavior of solitary waves traveling on a sloping sea dike is simulated, and solitary wave overtopping characteristics are analyzed using a complete Lagrangian numerical method, the moving particle semi-implicit (MPS) method. To better describe the complicated fluid motions during the wave overtopping process, the original MPS method is modified by introducing a new free surface detection method, i.e., the area filling rate identification method, and a modified gradient operator to provide higher precision. Meanwhile, the approximation method for sloping boundaries in particle methods is enhanced, and a smooth slope approximation method is proposed and recommended. To verify the improved MPS method, a solitary wave traveling over a steep sloping bed is studied. The entire solitary wave run-up and run-down processes and exquisite water movements are reproduced well by the present method, and are consistent with the corresponding experimental results. Subsequently, the improved MPS method is applied to investigate the overtopping process of a single solitary wave over a sloping sea dike. The results show that the hydraulic jump phenomenon is also possible to occur during the run-down motion of the solitary wave overtopping. Finally, the characteristics of the propagation and overtopping of two successive solitary waves on a sloping sea dike are discussed. The result manifests that the interaction between adjacent solitary waves affects wave overtopping patterns and overtopping velocities.     

Boussinesq cut‐cell model for non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures

Boussinesq models describe the phase‐resolved hydrodynamics of unbroken waves and wave‐induced currents in shallow coastal waters. Many enhanced versions of the Boussinesq equations are available in the literature, aiming to improve the representation of linear dispersion and non‐linearity. This paper describes the numerical solution of the extended Boussinesq equations derived by Madsen and Sørensen (Coastal Eng. 1992; 15 :371–388) on Cartesian cut‐cell grids, the aim being to model non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures. An explicit second‐order MUSCL‐Hancock Godunov‐type finite volume scheme is used to solve the non‐linear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq‐type equations. Interface fluxes are evaluated using an HLLC approximate Riemann solver. A ghost‐cell immersed boundary method is used to update flow information in the smallest cut cells and overcome the time step restriction that would otherwise apply. The model is validated for solitary wave reflection from a vertical wall, diffraction of a solitary wave by a truncated barrier, and solitary wave scattering and diffraction from a vertical circular cylinder. In all cases, the model gives satisfactory predictions in comparison with the published analytical solutions and experimental measurements. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A numerical study of the motion of a wave running up a beach

The main difficulty for the numerical calculation of the wave running up a beach is the treatment of its moving water boundary. In this paper a scheme of turning the free boundary problem into a fixed boundary problem is designed. The calculated run-up height is consistent with the experiments. Some interesting wave phenomena are also found.     

Relationship between wall shear stresses and streamwise vortices in turbulent flows over wavy boundaries

The relationship between wall shear stresses and near-wall streamwise vortices is investigated via a direct numerical simulation(DNS) of turbulent flows over a wavy boundary with traveling-wave motion. The results indicate that the wall shear stresses are still closely related to the near-wall streamwise vortices in the presence of a wave. The wave age and wave phase significantly affect the distribution of a two-point correlation coefficient between the wall shear stresses and streamwise vorticity. For the slow wave case of c/Um = 0.14, the correlation is attenuated above the leeward side while the distribution of correlation function is more elongated and also exhibits a larger vertical extent above the crest. With respect to the fast wave case of c/U_m=1.4, the distribution of the correlation function is recovered in a manner similar to that in the flat-wall case. In this case, the maximum correlation coefficient exhibits only slight differences at different wave phases while the vertical distribution of the correlation function depends on the wave phase.     

Numerical simulations of wave interactions with vertical wave barriers using the SPH method

This paper focuses on the fluid boundary separation problem of the conventional dynamic solid boundary treatment (DSBT) and proposes a modified DSBT (MDSBT). Classic 2D free dam break flows and 3D dam break flows against a rectangular box are used to assess the performance of this MDSBT in free surface flow and violent fluid–structure interaction, respectively. Another test, water column oscillations in a U‐tube, is specially designed to reveal the applicability of dealing with two types of particular boundaries: the wet–dry solid boundary and the large‐curvature solid boundary. A comparison between the numerical results and the experimental data shows that the MDSBT is capable of eliminating the fluid boundary separation, improving the accuracy of the solid boundary pressure calculations and preventing the unphysical penetration of fluid particles. Using a 2D SPH numerical wave tank with MDSBT, the interactions between regular waves and a simplified vertical wave barrier are simulated. The numerical results reveal that the maximum horizontal force occurs at the endpoint of the vertical board, and with the enlargement of the relative submerged board length, the maximum moment grows linearly; furthermore, the relative average mass transportation under the breakwater initially increases to 11.14 per wave strike but is later reduced. The numerical simulation of a full‐scale 3D wave barrier with two vertical boards shows that the wave and structure interactions in the practical project are far more complicated than in the simplified 2D models. The SPH model using the MDSBT is capable of providing a reference for engineering designs. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Numerical detection and generation of solitary waves for a nonlinear wave equation

This paper presents an automatic algorithm for detecting and generating solitary waves of nonlinear wave equations. With this purpose, dynamic simulations are carried out, the solution of which evolves into a main pulse along with smaller dispersive tails. The solitary waves are detected automatically by the algorithm by checking that they have constant amplitude and are symmetric respect to its maximum value. Once the main wave has been detected, the algorithm cleans the dispersive tails for time enough so that the solitary wave is obtained with the required precision.In order to use our algorithm, we need a spatial discretization with local basis. The numerical experiments are carried out for the BBM equation discretized in space with cubic finite elements along with periodic boundary conditions. Moreover, a geometric integrator in time is used in order to obtain good approximations of the solitary waves.     

Numerical analysis of a moving boundary problem in coastal hydrodynamics

A finite element model to tackle the moving boundary problem of wave run-up on moderately steep slopes is developed. The special aspects considered in this study are (1) the modification of shallow water equations to accommodate the effect of vertical accelerations and (2) the use of Lagrangian acceleration coupled with an element that adapts itself to the moving boundary closely. The pressure term in the one-dimensional momentum equation is derived using the Eulerian equation in the vertical direction. This takes care of the vertical accelerations which are significant during the motion of a wave on moderately steep slopes. The element near the boundary is allowed to change its dimension so that the fluid boundary is closely followed. Such a flexible element precludes the need for approximation of the variables with regard to the indefinite position of the boundary. This element is split into two when its dimension becomes unduly large compared to the unchanging elements. The need for such a splitting is shown by an examination of the entries in the global matrix. Results of water profile as a wave runs up a structure are given. A brief history of the work on similar problems is outlined.     

孤立波与多孔介质结构物的非线性相互作用

基于精确至Ｏ（εμ＾２,μ＾４）的多孔介质无压渗流模型方程和均匀流体质波动的Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程,本文对孤立波与多孔介质结构物的相互作用了较系统的数值实验。控制方程采用基于有限差分方程离散,在时域上采用了预估－校正方法进行了时间积分。在求解演化方程的过程中,引入“内迭代”过程实现流体域和多孔介质交界面的连接条件。结果表明孤立波在多孔介质上的反射与在不可渗透的界面上的反射类似,形成反向的孤立波但     

Frontal collision of internal solitary waves of first mode

The dynamics and energetics of a frontal collision of internal solitary waves (ISW) of first mode in a fluid with two homogeneous layers separated by a thin interfacial layer are studied numerically within the framework of the Navier–Stokes equations for stratified fluid. It was shown that the head-on collision of internal solitary waves of small and moderate amplitude results in a small phase shift and in the generation of dispersive wave train travelling behind the transmitted solitary wave. The phase shift grows as amplitudes of the interacting waves increase. The maximum run-up amplitude during the wave collision reaches a value larger than the sum of the amplitudes of the incident solitary waves. The excess of the maximum run-up amplitude over the sum of the amplitudes of the colliding waves grows with the increasing amplitude of interacting waves of small and moderate amplitudes whereas it decreases for colliding waves of large amplitude. Unlike the waves of small and moderate amplitudes collision of ISWs of large amplitude was accompanied by shear instability and the formation of Kelvin–Helmholtz (KH) vortices in the interface layer, however, subsequently waves again become stable. The loss of energy due to the KH instability does not exceed 5%–6%. An interaction of large amplitude ISW with even small amplitude ISW can trigger instability of larger wave and development of KH billows in larger wave. When smaller wave amplitude increases the wave interaction was accompanied by KH instability of both waves.     

Secondary instability modes generated by a Tollmien-Schlichting wave scattering from a bump

The plane finite-amplitude Tollmien-Schlichting wave interaction with a three-dimensional bump on a wall is considered for plane channel flow. The scattering of this wave leads to the production of unsteady three-dimensional disturbances which transform into growing secondary instability modes. The generation of such modes is studied assuming the three-dimensional disturbances to be small in comparison with the primary plane instability wave. The solution predicts that secondary disturbance amplification takes place only within a narrow wedge downstream of the bump. The qualitative comparison of results with experiments on turbulent wedge origination at an isolated roughness in a boundary layer is presented.     

A non-hydrostatic numerical scheme for dispersive waves generated by bottom motion

A numerical scheme based on the staggered finite volume method is presented at the aim of studying surface waves generated by a bottom motion. We address the 2D Euler equations in which the vertical domain is resolved only by one layer. The resulting non-hydrostatic scheme is used to simulate surface waves generated by bottom motion in a water tank. Here we mimic Hammack experiments numerically, in which a bed section is moved upwards or downwards, resulting in transient dispersive waves. For an impulsive downward bottom thrust, free surface responds in terms of a negative leading wave, followed with dispersive train of waves. For an upward bottom thrust, amplitude of the leading wave decays as the wave propagates, and no wave of permanent form evolves— instead, there appears a train of solitons. In this article, we show that our numerical scheme can produce the correct wave profiles, comparable with the analytical and experimental results of Hammack. Simulations using intermediate and slow bottom motions are also presented. In addition, we perform a simulation of a wave generated by submerged landslide, that compares well against previous numerical simulations. Via this simulation, we demonstrate that our scheme can incorporate a moving wet–dry boundary algorithm in the run-up simulation.     

Modeling the interaction of solitary waves and semi-circular breakwaters by using unsteady reynolds equations

A vertical 2 -D numerical wave model was developed based on unsteady Reynolds equations. In this model, the k-epsilon models were used to close the Reynolds equations, and volume of fluid( VOF) method was used to reconstruct the free surface. The model was verified by experimental data. Then the model was used to simulate solitary wave interaction with submerged, alternative submerged and emerged semi-circular breakwaters. The process of velocity field, pressure field and the wave surface near the breakwaters was obtained. It is found that when the semi-circular breakwater is submerged, a large vortex will be generated at the bottom of the lee side wall of the breakwater ; when the still water depth is equal to the radius of the semi-circular breakwater, a pair of large vortices will be generated near the shoreward wall of the semi-circular breakwater due to wave impacting, but the velocity near the bottom of the lee side wall of the breakwater is always relatively small. When the semi-circular breakwater is emerged, and solitary wave cannot overtop it, the solitary wave surface will run up and down secondarily during reflecting from the breakwater. It can be further used to estate the diffusing and transportation of the contamination and transportation of suspended sediment.     

Non‐hydrostatic 3D free surface layer‐structured finite volume model for short wave propagation

In this paper a layer‐structured finite volume model for non‐hydrostatic 3D environmental free surface flow is presented and applied to several test cases, which involve the computation of gravity waves. The 3D unsteady momentum and mass conservation equations are solved in a collocated grid made of polyhedrons, which are built from a 2D horizontal unstructured mesh, by just adding several horizontal layers. The mesh built in such a way is unstructured in the horizontal plane, but structured in the vertical direction. This procedure simplifies the mesh generation and at the same time it produces a well‐oriented mesh for stratified flows, which are common in environmental problems. The model reduces to a 2D depth‐averaged shallow water model when one single layer is defined in the mesh. Pressure–velocity coupling is achieved by the Semi‐Implicit Method for Pressure‐Linked Equations algorithm, using Rhie–Chow interpolation to stabilize the pressure field. An attractive property of the model proposed is the ability to compute the propagation of short waves with a rather coarse vertical discretization. Several test cases are solved in order to show the capabilities and numerical stability of the model, including a rectangular free oscillating basin, a radially symmetric wave, short wave propagation over a 1D bar, solitary wave runup on a vertical wall, and short wave refraction over a 2D shoal. In all the cases the numerical results are compared either with analytical or with experimental data. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.