Advantages of using hairless mice versus haired mice to test sunscreen efficacy against photoimmune suppressions

We tested the hypothesis that the strain of mice used in sunscreen protection experiments may influence immune protection. Ultraviolet (UV) dose-response curves were done in the presence or absence of a sun protection factor (SPF) 15 sunscreen using SKH1:hrBR or C3H/HeN mice. SKH1:hrBR mice showed a higher sensitivity to the suppressive effects of UV radiation (50% immune suppression equal to 5.2 kJ/m2 UVB in SKH1:hrBR mice versus 18.5 kJ/m2 in C3H mice). Immune protection factors (IPF) and an erythema protection factor (Ery-PF) for SKH1:hr mice were derived. The Ery-PF in hairless mice was 13.5, which was similar to the SPF of 15 measured in humans. When IPF were calculated as a ratio of minimal immune suppressive doses, the IPF for the SKH1:hrBR mice was 8.23 and the IFP for the C3H/HeN mice was 1.92. When IPF were estimated using the entire UV dose-response range, they were equal to 9.01 for SKH1:hrBR mice and 1.79 for the C3H/HeN mice. Because IPF and SPF can be measured directly in hairless mice, we suggest that the use of hairless mice may provide a better model to measure sunscreen efficacy, especially when the use of human volunteers is inappropriate, unethical or impossible.     

Time-dependent decrease in sunscreen protection against chronic photodamage in UVB-irradiated hairless mouse skin

To determine the time dependence of sunscreen protection against chronic photodamage in hairless mice, the time was varied (0-8 h) between topical sunscreen treatment and UVB radiation exposure. Sunscreen products with labeled sun protection factor (SPF) values of 2, 4 and 8 were evaluated; these values were verified in a guinea pig model for SPF determinations. When applied immediately prior to UVB radiation exposure, these sunscreen products were very effective in prevention of skin wrinkling and tumor formation. Onset of photodamage was delayed, the delay being greater with higher SPF values. However, the sunscreen actives were rapidly lost from the skin surface, and their protective effect diminished strikingly as the time between treatment and irradiation increased. For daily protection against chronic photodamage, this suggests a need for photoprotectants with greater substantivity to achieve a high level of protection throughout the day.     

Photostability of UV Absorber Systems in Sunscreens†

Sunscreens are used to protect the human skin against harmful UV radiation. Today there is a trend toward higher sun protection factors (SPF) and better UVA protection. Methods for the assessment of SPF and UVA protection involve irradiation of the product, and the photostability properties of the sunscreen have an influence on its performance. Sunscreens often contain more than one UV filter. Thus it is important to understand the photostability properties of the complete system. The filter combinations used may exhibit destabilizing, stabilizing or inert interactions. For that reason, besides assessment of the properties of the single filters, photostabilities of binary filter combinations are investigated. Destabilization occurs when two UV absorbers undergo a chemical reaction after absorption of UV radiation. Stabilization may be achieved when the optical density of the system is very high, giving rise to a self‐protection effect of the sunscreen film. Photounstable UV absorbers may be additionally stabilized by employing triplet quenchers. Being aware of these mechanisms and applying them for specific UV filter combinations can help in designing efficient sunscreens.     

Relevance of sunscreen application method, visible light and sunlight intensity to free-radical protection: A study of ex vivo human skin

With the continued rise in skin cancers worldwide there is a need for effective skin protection against sunlight damage. It was shown previously that sunscreens, which claimed UVA protection (SPF 20+), provided limited protection against UV-induced ascorbate radicals in human skin. Here the results of an electron spin resonance (ESR) investigation to irradiate ex vivo human skin with solar-simulated light are reported. The ascorbate radical signal in the majority of skin samples was directly proportional to the irradiance over relevant sunlight intensities (0.9-2.9 mW cm(-2)). Radical production (substratum-corneum) by UV (wavelengths < 400 nm) and visible components (> 400 nm) was approximately 67% and 33% respectively. Ascorbate radicals were in steady state concentration at low irradiance (approximately 1 mW cm(-2) equivalent to UK sunlight), but at higher irradiance (approximately 3 mW cm(-2)) decreased with time, suggesting ascorbate depletion. Radical protection by a four star-rated sunscreen (with UVA protection) was optimal when applied as a thin film (40-60% at 2 mg cm(-2)) but less so when rubbed into the skin (37% at 4 mg cm(-2) and no significant protection at 2 mg cm(-2)), possibly due to cream filling crevices, which reduced film thickness. This study validates ESR determinations of the ascorbate radical for quantitative protection measurements. Visible light contribution to radical production, and loss of protection when sunscreen is rubbed into skin, has implications for sunscreen design and use for the prevention of free-radical damage.     

Alternative methods to evaluate the protective ability of sunscreen against photo-genotoxicity

Numerous epidemiological investigations show that sunlight is carcinogenic to humans and that the use of sunscreen may be effective in decreasing the risk of skin cancer. The biological activity of a sunscreen is evaluated by its ability to protect human skin from erythema as represented by a Sun Protection Factor (SPF). We propose that the sunscreen's protective effect against sunlight-induced genotoxicity, including mutation, should also be taken into account. In this study we examined the protective ability of sunscreens against natural sunlight and UV-induced genotoxicity in Drosophila somatic cells. We prepared three kinds of sunscreen samples, each with an SPF value of 20, 40 or 60 and compared their protective activities with commercial sunscreens. When a sunscreen of SPF 20, 40 or 60 was pasted on the plastic cover of a petri dish in which Drosophila larvae were exposed to the sun or UV lamps, genotoxicity decreased as the SPF of the sunscreen increased, relative to levels of genotoxicity observed in samples without sunscreen. However, the protective abilities of sunscreens were unexpectedly not so different from each other. To reveal the relationship between the protective activity of sunscreen and the wavelength of light with which larvae were irradiated through the sunscreen, we measured the transmittance of light through the petri dish cover on which the sunscreen was pasted. Effective protection was demonstrated by removing components of light whose wavelengths were below 315 nm. We suggest, that the measurement of anti-genotoxic activity and the determination of the wavelengths of light transmitted through the sunscreen should be an alternative method for evaluating the effectiveness of a sunscreen.     

Photostabilization of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate by bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), a new UV broadband filter

It is now well documented that chronic UVA exposure induces damage to human skin. Therefore, modern sunscreens should not only provide protection from both UVB and UVA radiation but also maintain this protection during the entire period of exposure to the sun. UVA filters, however, are rare and not sufficiently photostable. We investigated the effect of the introduction of a new UV filter, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), in oil in water sunscreen formulations on the photostability of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone [AVB]) after irradiation with an optically filtered Xenon arc source (UV irradiance adjusted at 1 mean effective dose [MED]/min). With spectrophotometrical methods to assess the sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA ratio and chromatographical methods to determine the amount of UV filters recovered after irradiation we showed that Tinosorb S prevented the photodegradation of AVB in a concentration-dependent way, leading to a sustained SPF and UVA ratio even after irradiation with doses of up to 30 MED. Since AVB was shown to destabilize ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHM) we tested the effect of Tinosorb S in sunscreens containing this UV filter combination. Here too Tinosorb S showed photoprotective properties toward both UV filters. Thus, Tinosorb S can be used successfully to improve the photostability and efficiency of sunscreens containing AVB and EHM.     

An animal model of solar-aged skin: histological, physical, and visible changes in UV-irradiated hairless mouse skin

Albino hairless mice (Skh:HR-l) exposed to sub-erythemal doses of UVB or UVA radiation display physical, visible, and histological alterations. Skin surface replicas, transepidermal water loss, and skin fold thickness were found to change with irradiation. Visibly, the skin wrinkled with UVB and sagged with UVA exposure. These changes were graded on 3-point scales. Histological alterations included tissue thickening, loss of elastic fibers, elastosis, loss of collagen, and increases in muco-substances. The UVB alterations occur to a much lesser extent with an SPF-15 (7% PABA and 3% oxybenzone) sunscreen product. This sunscreen product had little effect on development of UVA-induced changes. However, an efficient UVA sunscreen (Parsol 1789) did reduce the UVA-induced changes. Many of the UVB-induced alterations regressed after UVB irradiation was stopped. No regression in UVA-induced alterations was observed when UVA irradiation was stopped. Qualitatively, the effects with UVA irradiation were like those observed in mouse chronological aging. These models and the convenient physical and visible grading methods described can be used to determine the effectiveness of topical treatments, such as sunscreens.     

Effective Photoprotection of Human Skin against Infrared A Radiation by Topically Applied Antioxidants: Results from a Vehicle Controlled,Double‐Blind,Randomized Study

Infrared A radiation (IRA) from solar sunlight contributes to photoaging of human skin, e.g. by upregulating MMP‐1 expression in dermal fibroblasts, indicating the need for photoprotection of human skin against IRA. Up to now, however, there has been no controlled study to show that effective protection of human skin against IRA radiation is possible. Here, we have conducted a randomized, controlled, double‐blinded prospective study in 30 healthy volunteers to assess the capacity of an SPF 30 sunscreen versus the same sunscreen supplemented with an antioxidant cocktail containing grape seed extract, vitamin E, ubiquinone and vitamin C to protect human skin against IRA radiation‐induced MMP‐1 upregulation. As expected, exposure to IRA radiation significantly upregulated MMP‐1 expression, as compared to unirradiated skin, and this response was significantly reduced, if the SPF30 sunscreen plus the antioxidant cocktail had been applied prior to IRA radiation. In contrast, treatment of human skin with the SPF30 sunscreen alone did not provide significant protection. These results indicate that topically applied antioxidants effectively protect human skin against IRA radiation and that regular sunscreens need to be supplemented with specific antioxidants in order to achieve IRA photoprotection.     

Daily Variation of UV‐induced Erythema and the Action of Solar Filters

UV rays may cause several degrees of skin damage, which makes sunscreen research necessary. In addition, skin sensitivity shows daily variations, which can interfere in the detection of the efficacy of the filters. Here, we studied the UV‐induced erythema in hairless rats at two times of the day (light and darkness) using a colorimeter method. The effect of an emulsion with solar filters with or without melatonin was also assayed. Results indicate that the value of a* (from CIELAB color space values L* a* b) was the most useful variable to evaluate the erythema. However, at the UV intensity used, erythema was only detected when irradiation was carried out during the activity phase of the animal, enabling the detection of the protective action of the sunscreen at this time. Thus, daily variations in skin sensitivity have been demonstrated and should be taken into account in dermatological research.     

Measurements of the Protective Effect of Topically Applied Sunscreens using in vitro Three-dimensional Dermal and Skin Equivalents

Abstract— For preventing or minimizing acute and chronic skin damage caused by UV radiation, the use of sunscreens is probably the most important measure. To screen the protective efficacy of new sunscreen molecules or formulations against UV rays, we evaluated as in vitro testing methods the use of two three-dimensional models, a dermal equivalent (DE) and a skin equivalent (SE). The DE is composed of a porous collagen-glycosaminoglycans-chitosan matrix populated by normal human fibroblasts. The SE is comprised of a fully differentiated epidermis realized by seeding keratinocytes onto the DE. In this study, we demonstrated that the DE and SE models react to the deleterious effects of UVA and UVB. Then, we extended our research to the evaluation of their usefulness for photoprotection trials. Sunscreen agents (Euso-lex 8020 and 6300) and commercially available sunscreens (chemical and physical filter formulations) that protect the skin against either UVA or UVB were evaluated. The tested products were applied (n = 6) topically (10 μL) and incubated for 30 min prior to irradiation over a range of UVA (0-50 J/cm²) or UVB (0-5 J/cm²). The photoprotection provided by the tested sunscreen molecules and formulations was evaluated by measurement of residual cellular viability 24 h postirradiation using the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetra-zolium bromide (MTT) test and assessment of the inflammation response by interleukin-la release assay. When sunscreens were applied prior to UV exposure, a higher residual cellular viability versus control was obtained, demonstrating the photoprotective effects of the tested products. These in vitro models could be used for screening tests to evaluate the protective effects of sunscreen molecules and formulations, especially for UVA trials because there is a lack of consensus for an in vivo method.     

Using ultra-weak photon emission to determine the effect of oligomeric proanthocyanidins on oxidative stress of human skin

Exposure of skin to ultraviolet (UV) radiation triggers oxidative stress in skin tissue that can lead to erythema, early skin aging or even cancer. It is suggested that oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPCs), phytonutrients that belong to the polyphenol family have an anti-oxidant/anti-inflammatory activity on the skin. Measuring ultra-weak photon emission (UPE) is a non-invasive, fairly-sensitive and convenient technique for continuously monitoring oxidative stress. The present study was undertaken to confirm anti-oxidant activity of the specific OPCs cream formulation in human skin by measuring UPE of skin. In the present study 25 healthy female subjects participated. As a baseline measurement of skin, UPE was recorded from the dorsal surface of the subjects’ hands before (spontaneous UPE) and after exposure to UV (UV-induced UPE). The effects of the OPCs cream on spontaneous and UV-induced UPE were measured using a fractionated UV exposure protocol. UV exposure resulted in an increase in UPE from both hands. Repeat UV exposure also resulted in a long-term increase of spontaneous UPE. This is likely due to depletion of anti-oxidant capacity of skin resulting in sensitization of skin to UV. It was assessed by measuring spontaneous UPE at 80 min after each UV exposure. Application of the OPCs cream immediately after UV exposure resulted in a significant (approx. 30%) decrease in UV-induced UPE. Topical OPCs cream application also reduced sensitization of skin to UV following repeated UV exposure (i.e., reduced long-term increase in spontaneous UPE). This study indicates that the specific OPCs cream formulation significantly decreases UV-induced oxidative stress in human skin based on UPE measurement. It therefore suggests that regular use of this OPCs cream might protect skin from harmful effects of UV.     

Ultraviolet Spectral Energy Differences Affect the Ability of Sunscreen Lotions to Prevent Ultraviolet-Radiation-Induced Immunosuppression*

Acute exposure to UV radiation causes immunosuppression of contact hypersensitivity (CH) responses. Past studies conducted with unfiltered sunlamps emitting nonsolar spectrum UV power (wavelengths below 295 nm) or using excessive UV doses have suggested sunscreens may not prevent UV-induced immunosuppression in mice. This study was thus designed to evaluate critically the effects of different UV energy spectra on the immune protection capacity of sunscreen lotions. Minimum immune suppression doses (MISD), i.e. the lowest UV dose to cause~50% suppression of the CH response to dinitrofluorobenzene in C3H mice, were established for three artificial UV sources. The MISD for each UV source was 0.25 kJ/m² for unfiltered FS20 sunlamps (FS), 0.90 kJ/m² for Kodacel-filtered FS20 sunlamps (KFS), which do not emit UV power at wavelengths <290 nm, and 1.35 kJ/m² for a 1000 W filtered xenon arc lamp solar simulator. Using MISD as baseline, sunscreens with labeled sun protection factors (SPF) of 4, 8, 15 and 30 were tested with each UV source to establish their relative immune protection factors. The immune protection factor of each sunscreen exceeded its labeled SPF in tests conducted with the solar simulator, which has a UV power spectrum (295–400 nm) similar to that of sunlight. Conversely, sunscreen immune protection factors were significantly less than the labeled SPF in tests conducted with FS and KFS. Comparison of the immunosuppression effectiveness spectra showed that relatively small amounts of nonsolar spectrum UV energy, i.e. UVC (200–290 nm) and/or shorter wavelength UVB (between 290 and 295 nm), produced by FS and KFS contributes significantly to the induction of immunosuppression. For example, 36.3% and 3.5% of the total immunosuppressive UV energy from FS and KFS, respectively, lies below 295 nm. Sunscreen absorption spectra showed that transmission of immunosuppressive UV energy below 295 nm for FS was at least eight-fold higher than that for KFS. Compared to the solar simulator UV spectrum the transmission of nonsolar immunosuppressive UV energy through sunscreens was >15-fold higher for FS and ≥1.5-fold higher for KFS. These data demonstrate that relevant evaluations of sunscreen immune protection can only be obtained when tests are conducted with UV sources that produce UV power spectra similar to that of sunlight and UV doses are employed that are based on established MISD.     

THE EFFECT OF ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT ON THE CYCLIC NUCLEOTIDE SYSTEM OF HUMAN FIBROBLASTS

Abstract— The concentrations of cyclic AMP and cyclic GMP in human skin fibroblasts in culture were determined after exposing the cells to varying fluences of UV (254 nm) light. The cyclic nucleotide concentrations of cells irradiated in the log phase of growth were unchanged relative to controls. In contrast, there was a rise in the concentration of cyclic AMP in cells irradiated after they reached confluency. The increase in concentration was observed as early as 30 min after irradiation, reached a maximum of about 200% of control at 4 to 6 h after exposure, and returned to control values by 24 h after irradiation. The effect was proportional to a UV fluence from 5 to 20 J/m², and was blocked by the addition of the UV absorbing agent para-aminobenzoic acid. In contrast, our results indicated that UV light had no effect on the concentration of cyclic GMP in human fibroblast cell cultures. Because of the importance of cyclic nucleotides in the regulation of cellular function, it is reasonable to hypothesize that changes in cyclic AMP induced by UV light may affect the extranuclear functions of irradiated cells.     

Noninvasive Assessment of UV-induced Skin Damage: Comparison of Optical Measurements to Histology and MMP Expression

Acute exposure to UV radiation (UVR) causes visible skin damage such as erythema and results in local and systemic immunosuppression while chronic exposure can result in photocarcinogenesis. These deleterious effects can be quantified by histology and by bioassays of key biological markers, including matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), or tryptophan moieties. We now report our results in quantifying UV skin damage with noninvasive optical methods based on reflectance and fluorescence spectroscopy and compare these noninvasive measurements to histopathology and MMP-13 expression. A solar simulator with spectral output nearly identical to that of solar radiation was developed and used in our experiments. SKH1 hairless mice were exposed to solar-simulated UVR at a total dose of 21 MED delivered over 10 weeks. Changes in oxygenated and deoxygenated hemoglobin were measured by diffuse reflectance spectroscopy, and tryptophan changes were monitored via a fluorescence monitor. Our results show that there is an increase in erythema, skin fluorescence, sunburn cells and MMP-13 after a series of suberythemal doses of UV irradiation on a hairless mouse animal model. Increased skin fluorescence is observed with increasing UV exposure. The levels of MMP-13 increase as the cumulative UV dose increases but their increase does not correspond to noninvasively measured changes.     

Hyperpigmentation induced by topical 5-aminolaevulinic acid plus visible light

Photodynamic therapy (PDT) with 5-aminolaevulinic acid (ALA) is an alternative tool for the treatment of superficial non-melanoma skin cancers. Recently ALA-PDT has been employed with encouraging results also for warts, condylomata and psoriasis. In this study the effects of topical ALA plus irradiation with visible light on intact human skin have been evaluated. Five skin areas (A, B, C, D, and E) on the inner upper part of the arms of five healthy volunteers (skin types III and IV) were treated with (A) ALA 20% in base cream without irradiation, (B) only the vehicle (base cream) without ALA, (C, D and E) ALA cream at the concentrations of 5, 10 and 20%, respectively; all treatments were applied with an occlusive dressing. Four hours after ALA or vehicle application areas B, C, D and E were irradiated with a fixed dose of 40 J/cm(2). ALA penetration through the intact skin was evaluated by in vivo fluorescence determination. The effects on healthy skin were evaluated by clinical and chromometric examinations, light microscopy, immunohistochemistry and electron microscopy. RESULTS: (1) in vivo fluorescence demonstrated that ALA is able to penetrate through the intact skin, when applied with occlusive dressing and induces a classical fluorescence peak due to Protoporphyrin IX (PpIX) formation, which is the active photosensitiser. (2) Skin areas receiving ALA plus irradiation showed erythema and swelling just after the irradiative session and hyperpigmentation 48-72 h later. (3) Colourimetric data confirmed significant skin colour changes: values a* (representing the erythematous changes) increased only on the skin areas where ALA+irradiation were applied and during the 48 h after irradiation, thereafter a* began to decrease; values L* (pigmentation) increased during the 2 weeks following treatment. (4) Histopathological, immunohistochemical (S100, HMB-45) and electron microscopic findings showed an absolute increment of the number of melanocytes, which appeared clearly activated. In conclusion the application of ALA cream followed by irradiation is able to induce a pigmentation response in healthy human skin, at least in skin types III and IV. This melanocytic activation could have a potential for the treatment of skin disorders characterised by hypopigmentation.     

Influence of application amount on sunscreen photodegradation in in vitro sun protection factor evaluation: proposal of a skin-mimicking substrate

Widely used polymethylmethacrylate substrates for in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) testing of sunscreens do not mimic the rough surface structure of skin, and in addition, sample loading is less than that used in in vivo SPF testing (2.00 mg cm(-2)). We have developed a skin-mimicking substrate (SMS), which has furrows and ridges on its surface, like human skin. A comparison of the photodegradation profiles of sunscreens on commercially available substrates (including SMS) at the recommended application amounts, and on SMS at various application amounts showed that the photodegradation rate of photounstable sunscreen was dependent on the application amount being higher at lower application amounts. SMS at the recommended application amount of 2.00 mg cm(-2) provided in vitro SPF values that were comparable with in vivo SPF values. Our results confirm that, in order to develop a reliable in vitro SPF method, which is consistent with in vivo SPF determination, it is important to use the same application amount of sample as in the in vivo method, in order to take proper account of sunscreen photostability.     

A Review of Sunscreen Safety and Efficacy

The use of sunscreen products has been advocated by many health care practitioners as a means to reduce skin damage produced by ultraviolet radiation (UVR) from sunlight. There is a need to better understand the efficacy and safety of sunscreen products given this ongoing campaign encouraging their use. The approach used to establish sunscreen efficacy, sun protection factor (SPF), is a useful assessment of primarily UVB (290–320 nm) filters. The SPF test, however, does not adequately assess the complete photoprotective profile of sunscreens specifically against long wavelength UVAI (340–400 nm). Moreover, to date, there is no singular, agreed upon method for evaluating UVA efficacy despite the immediate and seemingly urgent consumer need to develop sunscreen products that provide broad-spectrum UVB and UVA photoprotection. With regard to the safety of UVB and UVA filters, the current list of commonly used organic and inorganic sunscreens has favorable toxico-logical profiles based on acute, subchronic and chronic animal or human studies. Further, in most studies, sunscreens have been shown to prevent the damaging effects of UVR exposure. Thus, based on this review of currently available data, it is concluded that sunscreen ingredients or products do not pose a human health concern. Further, the regular use of appropriate broad-spectrum sunscreen products could have a significant and favorable impact on public health as part of an overall strategy to reduce UVR exposure.     

Development of a HPLC method for determination of four UV filters in sunscreen and its application to skin penetration studies

This study describes the development, validation and application of a high‐performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for the simultaneous determination of the in vitro skin penetration profile of four UV filters on porcine skin. Experiments were carried out on a gel‐cream formulation containing the following UV filters: diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB), bis‐ ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT), methylene bis‐ benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) and ethylhexyl triazone (EHT). The HPLC method demonstrated suitable selectivity, linearity (10.0–50.0 μg/mL), precision, accuracy and recovery from porcine skin and sunscreen formulation. The in vitro skin penetration profile was evaluated using Franz vertical diffusion cells for 24 h after application on porcine ear skin. None of the UV filters penetrated the porcine skin. Most of them stayed on the skin surface (>90%) and only BEMT, EHT and DHHB reached the dermis plus epidermis layer. These results are in agreement with previous results in the literature. Therefore, the analytical method was useful to evaluate the in vitro skin penetration of the UV filters and may help the development of safer and effective sunscreen products.